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emilianoksa
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242 would be fine, but I tend to buy 243 because it has more utility in other places because it's oil tolerant. 

Pretty much any of the blue thread lock liquids would be fine, There are cheaper versions of blue out there and they all work about the same when it's a non-critical component. 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/LOCTITE-Medium-Strength-Threadlocker-Adhesive/dp/B0068NKLQ6/ref=pd_sbs_60_7?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0068NKLQ6&pd_rd_r=20915a2c-5090-11e9-ab05-85df4f9cc25b&pd_rd_w=xNpyx&pd_rd_wg=czHc6&pf_rd_p=18edf98b-139a-41ee-bb40-d725dd59d1d3&pf_rd_r=RRK05PFZVEK1V17CKB72&psc=1&refRID=RRK05PFZVEK1V17CKB72

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Thanks.

 

I thought 242/243 might be best, (Ive used it on larger components in the past) but this grub screw is only about 4-5mm in diameter'

 

Is 243 OK for a tiny screw like this, or should I be looking at the low strength 221/222 for small screws?

 

I should have given the dimensions in my initial post. Sorry.

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If it's really tiny then the 222 might be better, but I've never had an issue with the 243 on small grub screws.

One thing you should be cautious of is plastics. Any thread locker will eat into plastic and reduce its strength by a considerable amount. So if you are screwing into a plastic part make sure you get a plastic safe product.

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  • 1 month later...

Sorry to revive this post, but would 243 be alright for the motor height screw? A friends is very loose on his Ares Honey badger and keeps backing out when firing. 

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7 hours ago, Seejay said:

Sorry to revive this post, but would 243 be alright for the motor height screw? A friends is very loose on his Ares Honey badger and keeps backing out when firing. 

 

If it’s metal on metal, it will be fine, does his gun have a metal base plate?

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Just been informed it's plastic, I'll still pick up a bottle of 243 anyway, useful to have around. 

 

Any ideas what to use for metal to plastic, or is teflon tape my best bet? 

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On 15/05/2019 at 18:10, Seejay said:

Any ideas what to use for metal to plastic, or is teflon tape my best bet? 


Superglue, A nice low viscosity one like ZAP CA - Thin CA. It's capillary grade, and you will only need a dab on a cocktail stick.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pacer-Technology-Zap-CA-Adhesives/dp/B0006O8EDU/ref=sr_1_16?adgrpid=53919449515&gclid=Cj0KCQjwt_nmBRD0ARIsAJYs6o2bfn4qKuvQwpq9jk6cP0f563j_I1zk3jgvU6SkJAGH9oExpvIH2XMaAmEkEALw_wcB&hvadid=259011885351&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9046172&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t2&hvqmt=b&hvrand=1234253116159213617&hvtargid=kwd-300189798611&hydadcr=170_1736084&keywords=zap-a-gap&qid=1558133984&s=gateway&sr=8-16

 

Play with it first tho, If you have never used capillary grade superglue it's vicious. A single drop is often way too much as it will spread and keep spreading. Normally I'll put a single drop into an old bottle lid and use a cocktail stick to apply it.

Apply to the screw, not the internal threads. Make sure both parts are de-greased. And have an idea where you want it set before you apply glue. When you find the right spot count the turns out as you remove the screw, then count them back in when you put the screw back in with a little glue. The glue will set very quickly and may need a little heat to separate once it's set.

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