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Seejay

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About Seejay

  • Rank
    AF-UK Newbie

Profile Information

  • Guns
    ICS PAR MK3, G&G TR16 308 MBR DMR, TM MP5k, KWA USP
  • Sites
    Primarily Combat Action Games Norwich
  • Gender
    Male

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  1. How fast are you firing these shots in this test? What about ambient temps when doing these tests? I own a KWA USP tactical and find the gas efficiency to be pretty good, However like all gas guns, cold weather had a huge impact on efficiency, and performance tends to be pretty awful when the weather ain't so warm. If you are mag dumping in these tests you may not be allowing enough time for the gas pressure inside the mag to build enough to complete a full cycle, allowing the slide to come back far enough to feed/lock the slide. The fact that the slide (and likely mags) are freezing cold points to this. Add to all of that the the temps outside aren't particularity great this time of year, so you're not gonna see flawless results from a gas pistol. There is a mod that involves adding an o-ring to the rocket valve to help towards improving gas efficiency, the link is https://www.reddit.com/r/airsoft/comments/1pqbtg/simple_mod_greatly_increases_gas_efficiency/ There is a link in the post to an Imgur album that gives you step by step instructions, I did it to my KWA USP years ago and it's still working great, I can't say that it's improved it massively, but In my opinion it's helped somewhat.
  2. That's great, I'm glad you got it sorted. Never be put off contacting a manufacturer, if they can't help you, they may be able to point you in the direction of someone that can. Always worth a shot!
  3. Seejay

    Loctite

    Just been informed it's plastic, I'll still pick up a bottle of 243 anyway, useful to have around. Any ideas what to use for metal to plastic, or is teflon tape my best bet?
  4. Seejay

    Loctite

    Sorry to revive this post, but would 243 be alright for the motor height screw? A friends is very loose on his Ares Honey badger and keeps backing out when firing.
  5. Have you tried contacting one of King Arms retailers, or themselves directly? There is a list of retailers on their website http://www.kingarms.com/contactus.asp Worth a shot I'd say.
  6. Not to worry, sorted by trimming the tappet plate fin.
  7. Hi all, Recently had a few consistency issues after short stroking my ICS Par MK3 to sort PME. Managed to more or less sort the issue by removing a few coils off of my tappet spring, but I'm still a little paranoid that more tuning is required. Tried the paper over the feed port test and, while it's not blowing the paper clean out of the magwell, it's still slightly blowing it off the feed port. Is this generally how the paper reacts in a healthy setup or should I be expecting no movement whatsoever? Setup is as follows: 13:1 gears SS'd by 4 teeth (from pickup side) Guarder SP110 spring SHS HT motor upgraded o-ring nozzle and cylinder head AB Mosfet + 11.1 I'm wondering if the short stroke has thrown my tappet timing out a little, and I'm just trying to compensate by making my tappet spring really stiff, putting the tappet plate under more stress. Would removing a millimetre or two from the bottom of the tappet plate fin benefit me in any way? Feeding is absolutely fine and Chrono results seem pretty stable with only a +/- 5fps deviation, so I could just be chasing ghosts, but still, would be great if someone with a little more experience could shed some light. Ta Lads.
  8. I believe you're pretty spot on with your assumptions. I've always adhered to the same practises and they haven't failed me yet. Also, Abbey states this on the product page of their website. https://www.abbeysupply.com/gun-cleaning-products/Abbey_Silicone_Gun_Grease1.html
  9. I can vouch for the CQR too, owned an ICS for years and it's rock solid. Split gearbox makes them stupid easy to work on too. As mentioned before some can suffer from a bit of upper/lower receiver wobble, but nothing that can't be fixed with a few strips of electrical tape strategically placed between the upper/lower. Love that foregrip too.
  10. Your best bet would be to contact Patrol Base and ask them what battery they would recommend. Some manufacturers are iffy about people using 11.1s, and in some cases using one can void the warranty.
  11. I tune all of my AEGs for faster trigger response, and rate of fire goes up with this as you are effectively shortening the time it takes for one complete cycle of the gearbox. The easiest and cheapest way to achieve this is by installing a mosfet and running an 11.1v lipo. You will need the mosfet to prevent the trigger contacts burning out from the higher voltage output of the 11.1. Even faster trigger response is possible with the 11.1 & mosfet, high speed gears (13:1 ratio), a high torque motor, 16awg wire and short stroking the piston. The second route requires more work and tuning, so my advice would be to try the 11.1 and mosfet first, as this is sufficient for most people. Accuracy is a bit of a redundant word in airsoft. You're chucking a round plastic BB down a smooth barrel, you're never going to achieve pinpoint accuracy with those factors. What is important is shot to shot consistency. Consistent FPS and consistent hop with a quality inner barrel and good quality BBs will give you a more consistent BB flight, allowing you to better determine where your shot will land. To add to what Noobtoobe mentioned with upgrading the compression parts, installing a metal cylinder head with a double o-ring and a nozzle with an o-ring will go a long way to improving FPS consistency. They are the first thing I change out when I buy a new gun/tech a friend's gun. I find that usually the stock cylinder, piston and piston head are fine, but if you want to change them out while you're at it then go nuts. Just remember lighter parts move faster, so avoid metal pistons/piston heads if you want the most speed out of your setup.
  12. Just take the O-ring out and take it to your local hardware store. You just need a like for like replacement. If you have one sitting around that is the same size then try that one.
  13. The brass band is to stabilise the inner barrel in the hop unit. Once your inner barrel is installed back into the hop unit, put the white barrel clip back in place and slide the brass band over the end of the inner barrel into the front of the hop unit. With the video paused at 0:53, it sits in the very front of the hop unit between the spring and the white barrel clip. Grab yourself a new bucking too, the damaged one may cause you some issues.
  14. Did you put the spring back on the front of the hop unit before reassembly? Shown in this video at 0:53
  15. Fitment and rewire completed, all of the standard V2 gearbox parts are completely compatible (aside from the selector plate, I'm not sure if this standard) and the gun is now back to a semi-locked DMR. A few things to watch out for though, Due to the way full auto was selected with the G&G ETU, there is a large gap in the selector plate just before the cutoff lever, as originally the cutoff lever did not need to be lifted to achieve full auto. it seems like full auto can be enabled with some modification to the original selector plate, however since this is a DMR it was not necessary for me to do so. The safety is also still partly engaged and the gun will not fire when semi auto is selected, as the 45 degree turn on the fire selector to select semi doesn't allow the safety lever to drop far enough out of the way. I'm sure this can be rectified by removing some material from the trigger, but it's late and the sleeping Mrs wouldn't appreciate me breaking out the dremel. Besides, as this will only ever be a DMR, I will most likely opt to fill in the indents on the receiver under the selector switches so the gun will only click into safe and auto (which will now serve as semi).
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