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About Seejay

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    AF-UK Newbie

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  • Guns
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    Primarily Combat Action Games Norwich
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  1. I believe you're pretty spot on with your assumptions. I've always adhered to the same practises and they haven't failed me yet. Also, Abbey states this on the product page of their website. https://www.abbeysupply.com/gun-cleaning-products/Abbey_Silicone_Gun_Grease1.html
  2. I can vouch for the CQR too, owned an ICS for years and it's rock solid. Split gearbox makes them stupid easy to work on too. As mentioned before some can suffer from a bit of upper/lower receiver wobble, but nothing that can't be fixed with a few strips of electrical tape strategically placed between the upper/lower. Love that foregrip too.
  3. Your best bet would be to contact Patrol Base and ask them what battery they would recommend. Some manufacturers are iffy about people using 11.1s, and in some cases using one can void the warranty.
  4. I tune all of my AEGs for faster trigger response, and rate of fire goes up with this as you are effectively shortening the time it takes for one complete cycle of the gearbox. The easiest and cheapest way to achieve this is by installing a mosfet and running an 11.1v lipo. You will need the mosfet to prevent the trigger contacts burning out from the higher voltage output of the 11.1. Even faster trigger response is possible with the 11.1 & mosfet, high speed gears (13:1 ratio), a high torque motor, 16awg wire and short stroking the piston. The second route requires more work and tuning, so my advice would be to try the 11.1 and mosfet first, as this is sufficient for most people. Accuracy is a bit of a redundant word in airsoft. You're chucking a round plastic BB down a smooth barrel, you're never going to achieve pinpoint accuracy with those factors. What is important is shot to shot consistency. Consistent FPS and consistent hop with a quality inner barrel and good quality BBs will give you a more consistent BB flight, allowing you to better determine where your shot will land. To add to what Noobtoobe mentioned with upgrading the compression parts, installing a metal cylinder head with a double o-ring and a nozzle with an o-ring will go a long way to improving FPS consistency. They are the first thing I change out when I buy a new gun/tech a friend's gun. I find that usually the stock cylinder, piston and piston head are fine, but if you want to change them out while you're at it then go nuts. Just remember lighter parts move faster, so avoid metal pistons/piston heads if you want the most speed out of your setup.
  5. Just take the O-ring out and take it to your local hardware store. You just need a like for like replacement. If you have one sitting around that is the same size then try that one.
  6. The brass band is to stabilise the inner barrel in the hop unit. Once your inner barrel is installed back into the hop unit, put the white barrel clip back in place and slide the brass band over the end of the inner barrel into the front of the hop unit. With the video paused at 0:53, it sits in the very front of the hop unit between the spring and the white barrel clip. Grab yourself a new bucking too, the damaged one may cause you some issues.
  7. Did you put the spring back on the front of the hop unit before reassembly? Shown in this video at 0:53
  8. Fitment and rewire completed, all of the standard V2 gearbox parts are completely compatible (aside from the selector plate, I'm not sure if this standard) and the gun is now back to a semi-locked DMR. A few things to watch out for though, Due to the way full auto was selected with the G&G ETU, there is a large gap in the selector plate just before the cutoff lever, as originally the cutoff lever did not need to be lifted to achieve full auto. it seems like full auto can be enabled with some modification to the original selector plate, however since this is a DMR it was not necessary for me to do so. The safety is also still partly engaged and the gun will not fire when semi auto is selected, as the 45 degree turn on the fire selector to select semi doesn't allow the safety lever to drop far enough out of the way. I'm sure this can be rectified by removing some material from the trigger, but it's late and the sleeping Mrs wouldn't appreciate me breaking out the dremel. Besides, as this will only ever be a DMR, I will most likely opt to fill in the indents on the receiver under the selector switches so the gun will only click into safe and auto (which will now serve as semi).
  9. For anyone potentially following this, I have since bought some V2 trigger contacts and they drop straight in with no modification, even the cutoff lever appears to be standard V2. Will know for sure when the trigger and MOSFET I have ordered arrive and I've done a full rewire, so I'll post back my findings once everything is installed.
  10. Hi all, Recently purchased a G&G TR16 308 MBR and turned it into a fully upgraded and semi-locked DMR. Gun shoots great, however the last game I played I was running into an issue where I would regularly get a random 3 round burst, and at one point even got a long burst of full auto, which for a semi locked DMR, is not ideal. Full auto on this gun is engaged by way of the selector plate depressing a small switch on the back of the ETU when the gun is switched to full auto, so I have locked it to semi by shaving off the part of the selector plate that makes contact with said switch. There is no way this gun can be placed into full auto, yet somehow I'm still getting random burst fire. I don't think the issue is down to microswitch bounce, I've been firmly pulling the trigger and this issue still occurs. Has anyone with this gun (or a similar gun with G&G's new ETU and MOSFET) had these issues? Running 13:1 gears, SHS high torque, Guarder SP120 and an 11.1v Lipo, so considered it could be overspin but seems unlikely as the sector gear always stops just before engaging the piston, which makes me believe the MOSFET has some form of active braking. I feel like either the ETU or MOSFET has Sh*t the bed, so I'm considering ripping them out and going with standard trigger contacts and a Gate MOSFET, like my other AEGs. However, I'm not sure if the G2H gearbox is compatible with standard V2 trigger contacts and cut-off levers. Has anyone tried this or able to confirm this will work? My original plan was either a Titan or a BTC Spectre, but it's too much money to drop on something that might not work due to the 45-degree fire selector. Hope someone can help shed some light on this!
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