SCAR_Jester Posted August 16, 2018 Share Posted August 16, 2018 Hi all, I've never worked on one before or know how the internals are set up, so I need a little help! So it died a few weeks ago, I had been using it on an 11.1v LiPo for a while without realising I was using a 30c LiPo... Whoops. Now all I know is that I have 2 real options (maybe 3). - Replace the G&G ETU and MOSFET with another stock part and be careful with LiPo usage. - Replace the affected parts and others with a trolley trigger and cheapitea Tr MOSFET - Possible to do straight swap of the G&G ETU with say a Titan??? The other parts I'm replacing are barrel assembly, piston and maybe the motor but primarily shimming and barrel is my concern for performance after the thing is working again. Any help or recommendations appreciated, Thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Sitting Duck Posted August 16, 2018 Supporters Share Posted August 16, 2018 First of all you gotta locate an ETU or likely the 3 rnd mosfet unit (though in rare instances the 3 tiny switches can crap out in trigger unit) So that is £40~£45 say £50 with postage unless you can get it replaced under warranty To convert back to old school you will need say a shs v2 switch AND a new V2 selector plate as the ETU kit or guns have a modified selector (basically a cut/trimmed dmr type selector that nevers raises the COL) cost say £12~£15 to convert plus mosfet/wires likely a tiny mosfet like Gate nano or something Titan - well that is chucking some serious dough at a gun but if you got the dosh then it's your gun Why would you replace the motor - if it is an Orange ifrit = 25k motor that is a pretty decent stock motor If you got the 18k grey std ferrite motor then yeah maybe replace it for a neodym but orange ifrit is not that far behind a shs ht motor slap in 13:1 gears & run on 7.4v getting about 19~20 rps, may not even need a mosfet if you shim it really well did a couple of 13:1 cheapo builds with 13:1 & the slightly slower blue powerful ferrite motor (aprox 24k) got 19 on 1 gun & 20rps on another producing only 11.5amps - very smooth (these were hot Cyma 517's I just Shortstroked & removed the heavy piston spacer to go from 390fps to 340fps) But yeah a good result from a couple of old motors I underestimated chucking in a junk box the 18k motor is pretty lame but some stock G&G motors are worth keeping and reusing for cheapo builds The orange ifrit motor (not got one myself) is supposed to be alright unless it's burnt out A bit too much info but you got the rough pricing options & will need a new selector if going old school trigger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCAR_Jester Posted August 16, 2018 Author Share Posted August 16, 2018 3 hours ago, Sitting Duck said: A bit too much info but you got the rough pricing options & will need a new selector if going old school trigger Perfect amount of info thank you. The gun only cost me £100 from a mate who had abused it a fair bit so I wanted to just see how it ran before gutting it. As far as I know the GB shell is alright and most parts should last me a while. From what I know, old school may be my go to, and perhaps a nice advanced MOSFET such as the WARFET, but with the added cost of wires and a switch perhaps a Titan would be more fun and less hassle? Having never installed a Titan before would there be much in the way of replacing other parts or will it replace pretty much everything? (I also heard some random rumour that there's no ant reversal latch in the GC16?) Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Sitting Duck Posted August 17, 2018 Supporters Share Posted August 17, 2018 There is a an AR Latch in the CM16 - in fact there should be one in all AEG's If you remove the ARL then if the gun overspins it will roll back from tension of main spring as the motor is free spinning - thus if gun pre cocks slightly, when it stops it rolls back Unless you fit a solid locking stepper motor in there ASCU's mentioned the ARL could be dropped but they revised this to their recommendation of installing the ARL Even on an AB mosfet, on release of the trigger the polarity gets reversed to stop/slow motor but soon after the braking, the motor becomes free rolling once again You need the ARL which is installed by G&G by default Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
E21A Posted August 17, 2018 Share Posted August 17, 2018 Out of interest, how old is the gun? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCAR_Jester Posted August 17, 2018 Author Share Posted August 17, 2018 9 minutes ago, E21A said: Out of interest, how old is the gun? I would say maybe 1 and a half years? It’s been a while in use. and mostly in semi-auto. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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