Supporters Qlimax Posted June 29, 2016 Supporters Share Posted June 29, 2016 Hi, I thought I'd make and share a video showing how to disassemble the Mancraft SDIK brass pin to allow you to then replace the airline because it's either been damaged or your changing to another line which I believe Proffrink recommends another line to use, sorry if I'm wrong Prof. Anyway here's e video, quick and simple but to the point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Root Admin proffrink Posted June 30, 2016 Root Admin Share Posted June 30, 2016 I should clarify: I'd use the thinner-walled hose if one wants to put the regulator and adapter inside the stock. Otherwise, the thicker-walled macro that comes with the SDiK is probably a better choice as it feels more durable. Honestly though I've had no problems with the thinner-walled one so far. Either way, good that someone has done a tutorial. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Qlimax Posted June 30, 2016 Author Supporters Share Posted June 30, 2016 The problem I’ve just found is with their new regulator you can’t put it into a VSR stock anymore because it now has what appears to be a burst disc built onto the side so if you try put the reg into the stock that gold disc get caught on the butt stock, so I’ve had to put mine into a rifle padded pouch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Root Admin proffrink Posted June 30, 2016 Root Admin Share Posted June 30, 2016 I think it's just a refined version of their blow-ff valve. Being an idiot, I removed mine. I'm ok with a CO2 capsule exploding in the stock tbh as the line will blow before the regulator, and there's just not the volume for it do do any damage beyond me having to replace the line. Given the correct orientation you could still fit it in but would need to remove the pressure gauge or switch to an inline one. Would take some engineering though. Also filing down the sides on mine helped a lot. There's a lot of useless material that's only there to make more space for the threads on both holes that the grub screws are in, but if you're sealing them in then it doesn't matter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Qlimax Posted June 30, 2016 Author Supporters Share Posted June 30, 2016 When you removed the gold disc did you what did you put in its place ? Yeah I thought that if you moved the gauge or air valve then it would go in but it’s a lot of messing about when you can pop it into a stock pouch. I had to modify the body on my VSR to allow the airline to feed into the stock but got there in the end. Just waiting on the sealant now then I can rebuild it all again and start using it J. What weight BBs do you use for yours Prof ? I’m currently using the standard hop so thinking of .28s until I get either a Type B hop lever or an AA hop chamber. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Root Admin proffrink Posted June 30, 2016 Root Admin Share Posted June 30, 2016 It wasn't a brass disk on the old design - it was like a tall lump of brass. The revised one is much more streamlined, and I think that's why they did it. The old one just looked generic - like it had been picked off the shelf (probably had). I believe the new one is specifically for the SDiK. I replaced it with a 1/8 NPT grub that I ordered from them too, then sealed with pneumatic sealant and filed it down flush. Check out my thread on it for pics I believe. Pressure gauge isn't that special/useful - you can't really use it for muzzle energy adjustments without using a chronograph anyway. I guess its only use is for telling when you're running out of CO2. You shouldn't have to modify your stock other than drilling a hold in the side to route the line to the pouch. There's a void where the rear of the trigger guard sits that the line can pass through freely into the rear. That's why the VSR models are so readily convertible for a stock modification imo. I'm using Geoffs .40s, but I've not fielded them yet. I know Bodgeups uses them too and has had good results with them and his SDiK. Wouldn't got any lighter than .36s. Remember, lift the heaviest weight you can with sniper rifles. I'd grab that AA hop unit ASAP - it really makes a difference. Only reason I'm not going higher than .40g right now is because no one makes a consistent one that's not hygroscopic, and I don't play enough with a sniper rifle to justify potentially losing a bag if it's left on the shelf for a while. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Qlimax Posted June 30, 2016 Author Supporters Share Posted June 30, 2016 I have the JG BAR10 G-Spec and it required some light modification to the stock before the trigger unit because the only available pass through was covered up by the trigger guard when it was all put back together so I had to make a hole on the side I needed it to pass through and also I had to remove a plastic shroud from the trigger screw because it was pushing up tight with the airline making it so the trigger guard wouldn’t push back into line, only a two minute jobby like but made things go in nice and easy after doing it. The regulator I have has the big brass disc on it so if I went to put it into my stock it’s that brass disc which gets stuck on the outside so just going to do the small hole thing in the side on the stock and good to go. I can’t find an AA hop on ASAP other than their own CNC hop which allows the use of an AEG barrel and bucking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Root Admin proffrink Posted June 30, 2016 Root Admin Share Posted June 30, 2016 That's exactly what I had to do - check my thread. Just removed a little from the pillar and shroud. Like I said: The brass disk is a blow-off valve that was on the old ones too. You could remove it and seal the hole with a 1/8 NPT grub then just file the grub down flush to fit it in. Dann and I have both done this and its worked well so far. Enough about this though as it's in my thread which I'm sure you can find if you want to Get the AA one. The ASPUK one is just the Airsoft Pro one anyway, which is good but everyone raves about the AA one and a lot of us on here own them and can attest to them being pretty damn good. Will take AEG barrels too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Qlimax Posted June 30, 2016 Author Supporters Share Posted June 30, 2016 Get the AA one. The ASPUK one is just the Airsoft Pro one anyway, which is good but everyone raves about the AA one and a lot of us on here own them and can attest to them being pretty damn good. Will take AEG barrels too. An AA hop take an AEG barrel as well does it ? does that mean you can also use an AEG bucking ? I've looked on ASPUK several times and cannot find the AA hop on there at all so i'm either looking in the wrong place or they've removed it ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Root Admin proffrink Posted June 30, 2016 Root Admin Share Posted June 30, 2016 Yep, it does. Maybe try someone other than ASPUK. They're really expensive anyway and mostly just resell Airsoft Pro parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Qlimax Posted June 30, 2016 Author Supporters Share Posted June 30, 2016 Ah I didn't know that the AA hop chamber allowed the use of an AEG barrel and bucking, that just makes it even more better because I have a 303mm PDI barrel I'd like to use and now I can :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Qlimax Posted June 30, 2016 Author Supporters Share Posted June 30, 2016 Just been reading on the AEG barrel side of it. It has to be an AEG barrel which has the cut in it to allow for a VSR bucking doesn't it :-(. I'm going to try a Maple I key in mine just to see what's it's like as a have an I key in my G17 and it's brilliant Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Root Admin proffrink Posted June 30, 2016 Root Admin Share Posted June 30, 2016 Worked fine for me, but then I am R-hopping with a flat VSR bucking so yeh. If you're not going to R-hop then a VSR cut and bucking is going to work better anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Qlimax Posted June 30, 2016 Author Supporters Share Posted June 30, 2016 So you can use a standard AEG barrel and AEG bucking? Just rebuilt my VSR now I've had the sealant but the regulator doesn't seem very stable. Put it to about 8bar and the pressure is up and down. Air coming out of the barrel seems really weak. Hmm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Root Admin proffrink Posted July 1, 2016 Root Admin Share Posted July 1, 2016 I did fit an AEG bucking and it seemed to hold it fine, but I never tested it so I wouldn't take that to mean anything. I still use a VSR bucking because they give a better seal over the nozzle (that the SDiK is designed to interface with). I would not use an AEG bucking for this sole reason. Regulator needs a break-in, remember. Dunno why it's be unstable though unless you have a leak somewhere. Might have to fish it all out and do the old water test to check for compression. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Qlimax Posted July 1, 2016 Author Supporters Share Posted July 1, 2016 i'll have a mess with it later on. Before i installed it again i checked the airseal with the brass pin part by hooking up the regulator and it seemed ok but definitely worth a good old water test. I may buy a PDI VSR barrel then and another VSR bucking as well and put it into a AA hop. Im definitely going to try an I key and see what that is like because with my G17 it works really well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Qlimax Posted July 1, 2016 Author Supporters Share Posted July 1, 2016 Like I said: The brass disk is a blow-off valve that was on the old ones too. You could remove it and seal the hole with a 1/8 NPT grub then just file the grub down flush to fit it in. Would this be any good Prof http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271231696013?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Root Admin proffrink Posted July 1, 2016 Root Admin Share Posted July 1, 2016 Yep. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Qlimax Posted July 1, 2016 Author Supporters Share Posted July 1, 2016 Is it normal for the regulator needle to move up more in pressure when the cylinder hasn't been charged ? I left it for a few minutes and came back to the, the needle had moved from 8bar up into the green around 15 bar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Root Admin proffrink Posted July 1, 2016 Root Admin Share Posted July 1, 2016 Nope, but remember: Gotta break it in first to stop the initial fluctuations anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.