The Daytona Build

[Sacarathe]

Have you tried reducing the volume of air supplied to the jack (per shot)? Via the FCU settings.

[proffrink]

Well what i am thinking is that evena slight bend in the barrel is causing the high pressure to flow out of this area. The more pressure the more that passes the bucking. I had a very similar issue with my MK17 a while back and that was a bucking leak hop to barrel that only showed its face when allot of air is introduced.

 

How do you get on the the 500mm ? I was looking at that for the mk17 since getting the jack, "which is awsome btw".

I gotta get something to drop the fps on the jack, at 60psi i am getting 350fps with normal hop on. Want to drop it so i can use heavier bbs with orga.

Yep, really the only parts i have locktighted is the collar andthe carrier inner/outer screw. All else has been up tight which no apparent issues.

Hm, well honestly if you have a brass or steel barrel bending isn't an issue unless you've really given it some welly. Aluminium seems to be what buckles easiest.

 

Usual fix is Teflon tape both over the barrel (between the bucking and barrel) and then a couple of wraps around the bucking itself (not where the actual nub is). You should absolutely not be losing pressure though - the DGs have incredibly well machined hop units that clam very tightly onto the barrel. Last thing I could suggest is maybe checking your R-Hop if you ended up doing one as those - in theory - should provide a near-perfect air seal if you've done it properly.

 

Loctite everything at some point. I'm dreading doing it, but I need to completely disassemble and reassemble mine as that's recommended during break-in to get a full clean and re-lube. when it goes back together it's getting the red stuff not the blue.

 

Did you do the water test and make sure you have no air leaks anywhere?

 

Also, the 500mm seems alright. Like I said, high air consumption as I have to run at around 130psi, but as it's damn near impossible to get a straight answer out of the FB group I'm not sure if that's bad or not. I may cut a coil or two to reduce recoil and up the fps (so I can drop the pressure to bring it back to 1.17J), but I dunno.

[LordGeorge]

Hm, well honestly if you have a brass or steel barrel bending isn't an issue unless you've really given it some welly. Aluminium seems to be what buckles easiest.

 

Usual fix is Teflon tape both over the barrel (between the bucking and barrel) and then a couple of wraps around the bucking itself (not where the actual nub is). You should absolutely not be losing pressure though - the DGs have incredibly well machined hop units that clam very tightly onto the barrel. Last thing I could suggest is maybe checking your R-Hop if you ended up doing one as those - in theory - should provide a near-perfect air seal if you've done it properly.

 

Loctite everything at some point. I'm dreading doing it, but I need to completely disassemble and reassemble mine as that's recommended during break-in to get a full clean and re-lube. when it goes back together it's getting the red stuff not the blue.

 

Did you do the water test and make sure you have no air leaks anywhere?

 

Also, the 500mm seems alright. Like I said, high air consumption as I have to run at around 130psi, but as it's damn near impossible to get a straight answer out of the FB group I'm not sure if that's bad or not. I may cut a coil or two to reduce recoil and up the fps (so I can drop the pressure to bring it back to 1.17J), but I dunno.

Also, the 500mm seems alright. Like I said, high air consumption as I have to run at around 130psi, but as it's damn near impossible to get a straight answer out of the FB group I'm not sure if that's bad or not. I may cut a coil or two to reduce recoil and up the fps (so I can drop the pressure to bring it back to 1.17J), but I dunno.

Yep well i had to do this to my mk17, got a aluminium madbull barrel tighbore 6.03. I r-hop'd that and also added a small bit of teflon mainly due to the WE freak of a hopup unit lol

I was considering tefloning the DG up as something tells me that will help, i will do r-hop but only on new barrel.

Well i did the same thing, tight and small amounts of locktight until break in is done then stick that shite together like crazy. Im already having to locktight external attachments and rail screws as it a shaker

I did indeed check for any leaks and there was none to report, everything seems to function well, my gut feeling is hop/barrel.

 

Hmm will see what to do with that, the mk17 is built as a DMR so R-hop with widebore sounds pretty sexy, im sure some retailer is going to have a little laugh when i order in almost 200 big ones for barrels alone haha.

 

Doing DG trigger job tomorrow, sick of sloppy trigger. Also got plans for Mk17 but most likely just fill in the case to force the trigger to rest on the switch as the trigger is too small to drill and tap.

 

 

Have you tried reducing the volume of air supplied to the jack (per shot)? Via the FCU settings.

Not yet due, only had it today so early days. Either way i will most likely get a orga for that as well

Pretty much doing all the stupid things like max fps, and rof . Funny as hell listening to a fart sounding blare from it going at 60+ a second.

Got ages untill my next skirmish due to work and Christmas, so lots of time to mess about and tweak.

[LordGeorge]

Done the trigger job on ther DG, nothing better than drilling a £300+ kit part.
Worked out pretty well, brought its own issues once installed though.

Two things, one. In safe the shears are still able to push the valve back, hence premature evacuation of air.
Two. The small tappet on the semi auto shear catches the DG shell due to its longer travel, easy enough fixable though.

[proffrink]

Well glad to hear you have it under control. Way outside my area of knowledge now though - the M249 trigger is literally a screw on the end of a pivot. I'm not even kidding.

[LordGeorge]

Cheers dude, new realm of adventure

Dont suppose you know of anyone doing the DG buckings in the UK ?

 

I dont mind buying them off tony but its a long wait and expensive delivery order for some bucking.

Need some to tie me over till i R-hop something, i have cracked the first bucking and nicked the second so pretty sure air is getting out.

I did however find the leak, besides the bucking.. seems to be the slot for the bucking on the barrel seems to be letting it all out.

Will teflon tape it for the moment.

[proffrink]

I have one spare - cover the cost and postage and it's yours.

[LordGeorge]

I have one spare - cover the cost and postage and it's yours.

You sure dude, i was half thinking buying a load in and selling them off as and when.

PM me how much you want dude, may go for it so i can rule out the air leakingz.

[LordGeorge]

Some new toys came today

 

 

Absolutely beautifull finish, as you can tell !!

 

 

Little longer than the origional but hey, looks its pretty.

 

Side note, installed speed trigger in polarstar, MK17. Very nice and only a little bump and grind to get it working

 

[proffrink]

That barrel is more expensive than some people's guns. Don't scratch it.

[LordGeorge]

That barrel is more expensive than some people's guns. Don't scratch it.

Im cradling it like the baby jebus, got another on order for the scar little more as its the 500mm.

[proffrink]

Yeh, hopefully worth the money.

[LordGeorge]

R-hop installed and a few inches of ptfe tape later and all good.

Barrel sealed nice and tight.

But issue 2000, when firning with bbs fed by mag it causes the bb to dribble out the end of the barrel.
If i preload a BB and fire with the mag in, the first fires out and second dribbles out.
But if i take a single BB and feed it into the hop and cock it, it fires around 310 consistently "for each time i load one in.

 

Any ideas ?

 

EDIT

I have also tried different mags and types with the same issue.

[proffrink]

Double feeds? Again, FAQ man - double feeds and chewed up ammo is common for the first 5000 shots.

 

Edit

Especially as you should be running with zero hop right now until you're around 4000-6000 in. There's nothing holding the BBs back except the nozzle when it's forwards.

[LordGeorge]

Double feeds? Again, FAQ man - double feeds and chewed up ammo is common for the first 5000 shots.

Troble is this never used to happen. I have already got a convo going on, on the FAQ so hopefully this will shed some light.

It doesnt always double feed with the same issue though.

[proffrink]

It's your hop; you just switched barrel onto an R-Hop, right?

[LordGeorge]

It's your hop; you just switched barrel onto an R-Hop, right?

This was happening before the change it just wasnt clear as the FPS was wonky as hell.

[proffrink]

So why are you saying this never used to happen? Good news is that it's almost certainly the break-in.

 

_{Also, you haven't got to quote me if I'm to post above, lel.}

[LordGeorge]

aha yeah lol, i think it was there it just wasnt clear. Since fixing the air leak its clear there is a other issue.
It did fire a bit more normally in the past but never have i had 310 fps so i suppose i know im going the right way
Lets hope it is

[proffrink]

Well, just give it that first 5k. Disassemble, reassemble and then do another 5k

[LordGeorge]

Ok so after a hour of free time today i have worked out the issue.
It seems that when manually loading a bb it sits snug in the hop ready for the air to kick its ass. But when allowing the bolt to cycle it pushes the bb no further into the hop but at enough speed to allow it to slip right past the hopup.
Upon closer inspection, lube has been layering the hopup and barrel, hence why the bb slips past. If i add a ton of hop, and only then will it stop the bb from falling out but then looses 60 ish fps.

This is also backed up by the fact that when pre loading the bb, i get a single shot as expected followed by one falling out which is simply the next in the cyle passing the hopup. No double feed, just too much lube. "never though id say that "

On a down note, can anyone notice any issues with the picture below ?

 

Looks like a new charging hangle is making its way to me sooner than expected

[proffrink]

Yeh, the lube will screw with your hop for that break-in given how much of it you have to use. My only recommendation would be regularly swabbing the bucking/R-Hop with isopropanol when possible.

 

I did try and hint that the charging handle may not stand up to the rigours of a Daytona Gun a few posts ago, heh. Try and source a real one from the US and modify it to fit. Prime may also do some decent ones.

[LordGeorge]

Cool will get some swabs on the ready !
Haha, i pulled it back and all of a sudden the handle let go..Ooops lol

Well i have been looking at the Rainer arms PTS as i just love the look of it, trouble is it looks like PTS dont make them anymore so i can only get the KWA variant.
Any ideads what the difference would be between a KWA and a WE handle ?

[proffrink]

I had the PTS Rainier Arms one. Just sold it with my WOC - it was a really nice charging handle. Thing is, the PTS stuff is not going to be as good as a real steel one. It needs to be very strong for pulling back that bolt multiple times, and PTS just don't make one good enough for that.

 

Stick to the really high-tier airsoft manufacturers (like Prime) or get a real one if you want something that's truly going to last.

 

Edit

They aren't actually a huge amount of money: http://www.rainierarms.com/mega-ar-15-slide-lock-charging-handle

[LordGeorge]

Looking into getting a real one, got some quotes out there to request a courier other than USPS as anything via royal mail into customs takes too long.
The stark grip passed customs within a day while the DG took 9 days im sure.