Are 11.1s correct for my gun after the work that has been done to it???

[Wegalaxy]

Hello,

So I own a ARP 9.

Here is a list of all the new parts that it has over the past year.

Converted to deans

Gate aster

Quantum trigger

friction pro hop rubber

So recently I have had a new gear set put in as the stock g&g one packed it in.

I believe it was a 18/1 gear ratio.

I have had a 14/1 hi speed gear set installed. (still with stock motor).

It shoots 25 RPS and shoots 307 fps on .25s.

I will be shooting in binary and semi only and this gun sees heavy use as it is my only AEG.

So here is my question.

Should I continue to use the 11.1s or down grade to 7.4s even to the gun shoots and operates fine?

As I hear people saying 11.1s will damage my gun with the new 14/1 gears.

But I have 5x 11.1 1,100 mah batteys and it would be expensive to replace.

Looking forward to hearing you opinions as I wont the most life out of my gun.

Thanks.

 

[Airsoftt]

11.1v is going to put more strain on the gun and potentially make it break faster.

If you want the best trigger response: 11.1V

If you want to try to prolong the life of your RIF: 7.4V

You've put a fair amount of upgrades into it, and its your only RIF so I would say go for 7.4v. Or potentially buy another RIF as a backup for when you need to repair your primary.

 

[Austeyr]

You absolutely can run an 11.1v, the aster will take care of the majority of it. 

 

[Quagmire]

Last weekend I killed my Specna Edge, I'd dropped some 14:1's in as I'd calculated that with the motor I was running I would get about 24-25rps on 11.1/3s and a more realistic 18rps on 7.4/2s. 

Lo and behold after fitting the gears and re-shimming it came out great. 

I am lucky to have access to a piece of private woodland and we tend to play semi or burst, no auto allowed. I was very much enjoying my new improved RoF when in the last twenty minutes of game day I noticed it started to miss the odd BB, I changed mag thinking it might be this, then it started making a grinding sound. I stopped and switched to the communal "backup" Specna flex M4 we collectively purchased for such occasions.

Stripping it down at home showed that the bearings had disintegrated on the selector plate side of the box.  The bevel gear and spur had dropped and teeth were partially ground off the bevel in the couple of short trigger pulls it took for me to go "wtf is going on?" and realise I had a problem. 

On the day I was running a brand new 11.1/3s 2200mah turnigy nano-tech battery with a max discharge rate of 70c, so I think this may have pushed my rate of fire up a bit, as I imagine there would be very little voltage drop under load on this compared to my older butterfly/nunchuck lipos. 

I'll be fitting bushings, and see how that goes. 

View attachment 149485

 

[Tackle]

Last weekend I killed my Specna Edge, I'd dropped some 14:1's in as I'd calculated that with the motor I was running I would get about 24-25rps on 11.1/3s and a more realistic 18rps on 7.4/2s. 

Lo and behold after fitting the gears and re-shimming it came out great. 

I am lucky to have access to a piece of private woodland and we tend to play semi or burst, no auto allowed. I was very much enjoying my new improved RoF when in the last twenty minutes of game day I noticed it started to miss the odd BB, I changed mag thinking it might be this, then it started making a grinding sound. I stopped and switched to the communal "backup" Specna flex M4 we collectively purchased for such occasions.

Stripping it down at home showed that the bearings had disintegrated on the selector plate side of the box.  The bevel gear and spur had dropped and teeth were partially ground off the bevel in the couple of short trigger pulls it took for me to go "wtf is going on?" and realise I had a problem. 

On the day I was running a brand new 11.1/3s 2200mah turnigy nano-tech battery with a max discharge rate of 70c, so I think this may have pushed my rate of fire up a bit, as I imagine there would be very little voltage drop under load on this compared to my older butterfly/nunchuck lipos. 

I'll be fitting bushings, and see how that goes. 

View attachment 149485

So, in essence, what your saying is......

You wankered it ?

View attachment 149490

 

[Quagmire]

Absolutely! ?

 

[ak2m4]

Difficult to say, you mentioned your gears broke with 18:1 but you've put 14:1 in which is going to add more stress.  What brand of 14:1 gears?  I only know 1 type and if it's the one's thinking about they have a cast sector gear.

 

[Wegalaxy]

Hello, 

@ak2m4the gear set is this.

https://www.thecageairsoft.co.uk/zci-cnc-gear-set-14-1/

Do you think they are up to the task?

Thanks

 

[ak2m4]

yeah up to the task, however that price is insanely high and if you wanted reliability then SHS at half the price or Solink would have been the better option. 

I used to sell these but I was getting a reports of screws coming loose and shafts snapping so gave them the boot.

 

[Leo Greer]

In short, the actual voltage of 11.1v (or 12.6v fully charged) will cause no more damage to your Aster than a 7.4v or 9.6v would.

The increased speed doesn’t actually harm your bearings more. The gear rotating faster doesn’t put more lateral stress on the bearing cage, but instead it is your spring doing the damage there.

However, the increased speed could cause issues with PME, which would then require a stronger spring to alleviate, which would end up putting more stress on your bearings and oh my now we are making the build less reliable!

It’s different for every build (and if you’re using the stock G&G spring then you actually have a stronger than normal spring in there), but the typical “PME ceiling” for a build around this power level is about 25 RPS. I have pushed a 1J build to 30 before, and I’ve also seen 1.5J builds experience PME at 25, so take the time to test your own build and work out all the little details!

In short, as long as you don’t knacker anything up and use good tech sense you’ll be totally fine.

 

[EDcase]

Higher power DOES put more stress on the gear set and bearings.