bitofanidiot42

I will personally find you and remove it from your possession.

Behold! The Billund Marui 1911: -Great performance out of the box -Good-feeling, high quality polymer frame and slide all the way from Denmark -Fully LEGO compatible allows for the sea of aftermarket parts to be fitted -Just don’t expect much out of a melée (warranty becomes invalid)

So it would work alright in the slide if it is cleaned and reapplied often, I guess?

I’m going to get some proper lubricant for the gun anyway, just a little curious. Also what are your opinions on silicone lubricant not being good, especially the points this guy makes. Don’t really understand it all.

On my limited budget, I have bought a second hand Army R28 in two tone blue, hoping the cheap price won’t mean cheap QC. Only sign of wear is a tiny chip on the plastic grip. I could always upgrade it when I raise my budget, it’s TM compatible.

Are there any known differences between the JG T3-K3 and the K-1 apart from the colour of the furniture?

Thanks lads, I think I’m getting a bit off topic but toy guns are so complicated… Shimming a gearbox. I know what it is but how necessary, should I do it as soon as I get a gun or only if I notice an issue with the gears’ contacts?

I think I’ve learned what I came here for. My conclusion is that a 7.4 Lipo will give a higher rpm than a 7.2 but the fps is always the same, I should probably get an m90 and hack away at the gearbox. It doesn’t matter too much for the rpm as my local site seldom allows full-auto. As for MOSFET’s, they are for high power batteries to stop the carbon hurting the gun so quickly. They can be expensive and fancy and programmable or cheaper but not absolutely necessary for a cheaper gun as replacing the trigger contacts isn’t the end of the world (although they are becoming harder to find in the U.K.).

Thanks so much, I get it now

I’m confused and my head’s spinning, my grasp on electricity is not good! Why do amps matter and not watts? Isn’t current just watts or amps? I’m probably making a fool of myself but everything I search up doesn’t seem to make sense, I just know that volts is the amount electricity that can get in and amps are how fast the electricity is flowing.

So 7.2 Nimh would give lower fps than a 7.2 lipo?

So let’s say I’m planning to get a JG T3. The only thing is that it shoots 370 where I need to get it down to sub 350. Would using a weaker battery do the same as a spring downgrade or is this lipo ‘oomph’ the fire-rate?

I also have one with 3000 mah

It turns out that my car battery is a ‘1800 mah’, ‘Ni-Mh’, and a ‘7.2 VOLT POWER PACK’. Suitable for a gun? It seems to be two sticks joined in a plastic shell

Thanks a lot guys… This is probably a bit of a dumb question but could you “half-charge” an 11.1V? With my 11.1 toy electric car, the power gradually decreases until it barely moves. So, could you just have it on a lower power?

Thanks, are the Specna Arms ‘Flex’ series anything to get excited about?

Hurt? Fuck yeah! Damage your body? To a minimal extent, e.g. bruises and redness unless it’s like 900 fps which is probably classed as a firearm

Floperator, that’s fine, it’s an interesting topic, at my field it’s 350 for anything but dmr’s and bolt actions, 400, for dmr and 500 for a sniper. They won’t let you dryfire anywhere as soon as the session officially stars and apparently you have to leave 2 seconds before you shoot again with a sniper but they didn’t enforce that one last time. It could be said, though, that guns “too powerful” still can’t harm you and won’t give the user much advantage except pissing people off but it’s nice to have a fair set of rules.

Ok, in regards to my *cough cough* AEP, I’ve got a proper pistol now so that doesn’t matter. * I’ve read this read a while back and it was quite interesting, motivating me to not make the “fatal” decision (ok, don’t quote me on that, I know, it kinda depends and stuff) of buying a cheap sniper. Roger, how did your Well mb03 break? I’m interested to see how it happened but I bet the high power spring kills the plastic internals. *I’ve heard that a pistol as a first gun is bad but it’s too late, not sending it back! Also, I know a CYMA might last longer but I prefer the look and (how it’s supposed to) feel of the JG T3K1. Finally, you’d be glad to hear I got a refund on that piss-tol today.

Ah ok, so running my 11.1 lipo is not recommended, does it even bring any benefits? From what I’ve seen it only increases rpm. I’ve just searched up titan MOSFET and it’s something you can program, what does that do?

Is there any sort of battery output number where getting a MOSFET is probably right. (This isn’t currently a problem for me, I’m just wondering).

Ok, my takeaway is that I should get a good aeg that will last, and if I want to try sniping, get a well and see if it’s my cuppa tea.

Thanks for nudging me in the right direction, people often say I’m the sort of person to get stuck in the action. Probably getting a FAL, AK or MP5.

Hi lads, I’ve been looking for a while, I understand that a sniper is discouraged but I like the Well Mb03. I also have looked at the JG T3’s. I’d rather not an M4 as I want to be a bit “original”. Budget around £100, spit some stuff at me! (also don’t know if this the right place to post this!)

Ok, turns out the crappy plastic gears are worn out and the cogs don’t do anything anymore, might try get a return (without saying I went inside).