mike223

I have an old ics m4, lancer tactical gen 1, kwa cqr mod 2, krytac mk1 pdw, G&g cm16, specna edge and a empty vfc vr16 body. I know it’s kinda opinion based but I wanted to know what you guys think. I got the ics because of the split gb, but it’s currently a project and I keep forgetting about it or i realize I’m missing a part and forget about getting it lol. Or that I’m just a bad tech and idk what I’m doing lol. Seems a little front heavy and it’s front wired. The lt is my first gun so it’s kinda nostalgic mainly plus it’s very light weight. The kwa because I hear about how people say the 2gx box is good, kwas are good out of the box untouched. Only problem is certain parts might need to be modified or I can only get a specific part for it to work and no qc spring and it is a heavier ish gun. But so far I haven’t touched anything inside it and I should have a gun I do not touch. the krytac like the kwa is supposedly loved for being good ootb. Also like the kwa proprietary parts like the gears may be an issue as well, but I can get them kinda cheap from brill armory (yes I’m in the us). Plus this gun seems pretty light and I like the smaller pdw style. the g&g I got in a bundle deal but i get attached to things easily haha. It’s probably more durable than the lancer but the lancer has lasted me many years. I guess if I have a choice though or wanna narrow it down this is probably the better choice. Bad thing is again no qc spring guide so I’d have to get a gearbox or take the specna one. Specna edge is currently on the way so I can’t say much. But I’ve heard the internals are zci oem and are pretty good. Plus a nice qc spring guide. idk about how it feels in the hands though. the vfc body needs a box, I might take the specna otherwise idk what I’ll use. Externals are very cool, I love the bronze finish. A little worried about damaging or scratching it but it’s used so someone kinda did it for me lol. let me know what you all think. Is this too much. What are your favorites or why would you do? I think the lancer would be the easiest choice to get the door out because of the cheaper build quality. Beyond that it gets tougher if I wanna narrow down my collection. I love the vfc externals, the krytac pdw is a pdw so I think it’s cool and it or the kwa can be a gun I don’t touch unless I need to. The ics is a little scuffed up so the externals are alright nothing crazy, the kwa was painted in some spots by the previous owner and it wouldn’t really be my choice and I’d have to probably replace the cracked plastic Lower. Main parts are untouched though. I can easily replace the pistol grip and stock. Vfc is my favorite externally. G&g is probably the winner for polymer/ lighter bodies if I want one or the krytac possibly and scratch the g&g. As far as upgrades go idk what I’d be doing. Maybe upgrading things as they go out or just simply replacing them with the same item and doing Basics like bucking/ nub, barrel, motor. Mosfets I don’t absolutely need, but I do have a couple sitting around. A gate titan and one is like a gate merf 3.2 or something similar.

What’s a good price to sell an old grey metal body ics pcr97 with a gate merf 3.2 mosfet? Without? Also if I fix the issue of the safety not fully working how much more could I get out of it?

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Here is the list of items and what i'm thinking of listing as but might start like $10/ £8 or more above what i listed here just to see if i can get the most out of everything cyma cm 040i $130/ £98 ($150/ £114 with the 2 high caps and one mid cap mag) ics pcr 97 (old grey body, some scratches/ paint worn a little) $200/ £151 ($225/ £170 with 3.2 gate merf mosfet, $260/ £197 including 3 11.1v lipos) kwa km4 ris $215/ £163 ($230/ £174 if adding red dot and foregrip) g&g prk9 with folding adjustable stock, has a broken off charging handle and just thinking of taking out the mosfet if I cant get it to work ($230/ £174 includes a high cap and a low cap mag) kwa cqr mod 2 (painted camo on pistol grip/ stock/ mags/ and handguards, but am thinking of throwing in a black set of handguards/pistol grip/ and stock, or just repainting everything painted camo back to black) along with 5 mags $160/ £121 ($185/ £140 including a scope, and a pair of goggles) condor mcr4 ops chest rig (black) $15/ £11 condor sentry plate carrier (black) $30/ £23 independence ar500 plate carrier with no plates inside, idk if its sold with any or not in it (black) $80/ £61 2 double stack velcro mag pouches $20/ £15 3 nastima 11.1v 20c 1200mah deans connector lipo batteries (less than a year old, just under 6 months even) or could throw all 3 in with the ics since its the only one with a mosfet at the moment unless I do some diy ones $45/ £34 9 elite force tan midcaps, have some black paint on them that rubbed off from using in a black gun $45/ £34 10 midcaps kind of beat-up paint wise and a few different brands ( echo 1, lancer tactical, g&g spartan imports, dboys, king arms) $65/ £49 or I can toss a couple of mid or high caps that fit with each m4 as well 5 pts magpul tan high caps good condition $50/ £38 2 ak high caps and 1 mid in good condition $20/ £15 6 motors (probably from stock guns, idk if they function or not i haven't tested them yet, but two of them seem to have better magnets than the rest) and vfc gears i'm assuming 18:1 from a stock gun (idk if they're used or not and how much, same with the motors) $100/ £76 if all motors work also random stuff like: tan rail covers, foregrip, extra front sight and gas block, condor knee and elbow pads, shoe/boot gaiters, condor medic pouch with $21/ £16 price tag still on (all for $40/ £30) I probably wont end up trying to sell all this but id like to know before I do that im in the ballpark or not. I know its a lot to guess on so even a guess for total value might help but I probably wont end up selling everything in a huge lot, so id like to have an idea of individual prices. Also I can include pictures if it helps.

I think ive seen preuns that are made specifically for g&gs so that would make sense, so i would think the gate merf 3.2 wouldnt work, plus I wouldnt wanna mess with it. I think ill just take out the mosfet and go without one since I dont really need one if im using a 7.4 and for me its one less thing to worry about.

Yes that is what I meant. Also I got it!! Thank you for your help! I am a grade a moron and there was a hex screw that was lose that was sitting right under the lip of the end of the latch that was quite lose. I cant believe I didn't try that before .🤦‍♂️ Now the only worry is figuring out the mosfet issue which as I said before I might just not have one in the gun or replace it with a different one. Or somehow resetting it but I think id have to buy some sort of control unit. As well as maybe getting a flash hider and a new charging handle/ dust cover that exposes the hopup but it might be more trouble than its worth and I could care less about it lol. Also its one less thing to break. Do you have a preferred mosfet? Ill probably only use a 7.4 at least on this gun anyways and idk if I need an 11.1 for any of my other guns. I've heard the optical ones are more durable as nothing can get crushed besides wires if it works from light vs microswitches. But then you have to worry about them being finnicky with light getting in or reflecting. Also I believe ive heard ones like the perun hybrid and the gate titan/ aster are designed for 11.1v lipos so idk if that would be an issue if im using a 7.4v I have a gate 3.2 merf I might throw in that is in an ics m4 as of now. But idk if I wanna go through the trouble if I sell this in the future Id like to possibly keep it as it is my first and only mosfet unless I get another. Plus ive never soldered or installed a mosfet before and I don't wanna ruin it, but id work up to it I guess. It sounds like I dont need the trigger contacts protection if im using a 7.4v but if I end up using a 11.1v sometimes. Also the features like the like better trigger response would be cool as well as maybe precocking but idk how those effect the durability and longevity of everything else inside the gun. And yeah I think im just gonna let it go and see what I can do with the gun, its probably not worth the hassle fighting it. Also does anyone know, would a diy mosfet have the benefit of better trigger response or am I just getting the trigger contact protection?

I have a cyma ak and i have figured it out for that gun, however I have tried the same method and it still wont latch on this gun. The only issue is I might struggle finding replacements or ill try contacting g&g directly and I assume ill get shafted on shipping fees. This is the part I am referring to when I say the charging rod, thats what the seller referred to it as so I assumed that is what it was called. The one in my cyma ak is different so it will not work in this gun.

This is regarding a different gun, a g&g prk9. The issues are the charging rod seems to be bent (I assume that's why the battery hatch doesn't wanna latch in) and the battery hatch is very very difficult to get closed if im able to close it at all. Also there might be something wrong with the mosfet (yes its the poopy stock g&g one so thats probably why). Ive tried shooting it 2-3 times so far and in both semi and full auto the gun shoots one shot, then a burst of two, then one again and so on. I looked up a manual and then tried holding the trigger for 10 seconds and nothing changed. As for the namedropping I meant on hopup, the platform I bought it on. However I probably could of done the return process better and I didnt quite understand what I was doing and escalated it to a claim while the dispute still had time on it. So Ill probably just suck it up and try to fix it. Ill either say screw it and just take out the mosfet since I dont think I can fit a 11.1v lipo in the battery compartment. Or try to get something the seller mentioned to reset it or replace it with a different one. I asked in another forum and some said it could be due to crush damage and its malfunctioning so it might be toast. Plus ill have to find out where I can get my hands on a new charging rod and maybe a charging handle (or whatever its called on this gun) that was already broken off or I might just leave that part as is. All I know is I received an email saying I was ineligible for a refund because it was not covered under the user agreement. I didnt know specifically what it was so I asked them and they told me it was because it was a gun. I said its an airsoft gun not a gun gun, but they said it still applies apparently.

I tried getting a refund through a claim on PayPal and got denied. They said it was not covered according to the user agreement. So I contacted PayPal and they said it was due to it being a gun, however I had another return that actually went through but I believe the seller initiated it and it didn’t have to be decided by PayPal. Have any of you had returns through PayPal involving airsoft guns? Is it only if it has has the word gun in it? And does the seller have to initiate the refund without getting PayPal involved for it to work? I initially tried getting a refund by contacting the sller but he wanted me to cover the money he spent in insurance sending it to me and something else so in the end id be getting like 1/2-2/3 of my full refund. So I filed a claim, and unfortunately I got denied so im stuck with the gun and will have to fix up the issues I never knew about until I got it. Im tempted to name drop on the hopup app where I bought it from but I probably shouldnt since idk if he knew or lied about the issues or not or somehow they were both done during shipping I will never know. And I don't wanna be petty or somehow get misunderstood and blacklisted or something but damn I feel a little ripped off lol. For example is it ok call it a toy or a replica and never mention anywhere the word gun or airsoft or something, will they refund me through a claim? Its too late now, but in the future if I ever need to return anything again.

That is correct, I am US based. If I really wanted to im sure I could get a refund as I bought through paypal and they usually favor the buyer in claims anyways. But idk if I will or not as mentioned its possibly an easy fix. Yeah I guess thats possibly true that I need to give the seller a good probing lol. If I am ever in the market to buy anything again used I will ask for more pictures and videos I suppose. https://imgur.com/a/Abkxlr2 Here is a picture of the bottom of the grip.

I bought it on the HopUp app and I got it for a $100, so I guess it wasnt a lot compared to what it would have been many years ago. And I suppose I should probably suck it up as they aren’t major dealbreakers I would assume and like you said possibly quite low cost as well. The good stuff is at least it works and it’s an ics with a split box and a metal body plus the mosfet if it works for $100. I saw a basically new looking ics 22 going for $230 probably because it looks new due to being a training gun. Also it was rebuilt with all new parts internally. Matrix barrel, spring and piston, rocket gears, bolt motor. (maybe that was the better option since it’s basically all new plus a battery, sling, peq box and its rear wired to deans. With a mosfet but he said he hasn’t gotten it to work. but for over double what I bought this for). The only thing is I need to figure out why the mosfet did what it did and the safety issue.

I recently bought a used ics pcr 97 The old one with the gray body. Anyways I was tinkering around with it and I found out the safety doesn’t really work. It works if you don’t press very hard on the trigger but if you pull any harder it will pull back like it’s in semi auto and fire. Would this be a dumb reason to return it? Or would it be stupid to ask for him to pay for the stuff I didn’t know about? (If I need a new tappet plate onto fix it or something idk) As well as possibly a motor screw missing? Or should I consider filing a claim and having him pay for the tappet plate and screw or whatever I need? (I didn’t know about these things, he said it works fine, nothing about the safety issue or about the missing screw) He also said “sold as is” but I think id still be able to return it or have him buy the stuff as I didn’t know about this stuff mainly the safety thing. It also came with a gate MERF 3.2 mosfet. When I tested firing it the first time I was shooting it in semi auto and then after a couple shots when I pulled back the trigger I’d see the mosfet light up with a green light and was flashing through the ris rails (idk what that means). But then I just tried it again and it worked for handful of times I fired it in both semi auto and full auto. Also I don’t have a button to program it but I hear you can use the trigger if you detach the motor. I’d maybe mess around with this but I wanna know if the saftey issue is easily fixed and if there’s anything wrong with the mosfet. And I don’t wanna end up breaking it in case I want a refund. Otherwise from what I can see there’s nothing wrong with it (externally wise anyways, idk about internally) besides worn body/paint, wiggly ris/ front sight and missing flash hider. Also there might be the screw to adjust the motor that is missing as well since there’s a hole in the middle of the bottom plate with nothing in it.

I got it! All I had to do was hit it a couple times and smack the hatch in place lol. I didn’t wanna hit anything to hard or end up breaking something but I guess that’s how it’s supposed to be closed. thank you all for the help.

I put the front end in the notch and am having issues with the back end. I can’t seem to get the back end inside the lower body as it looks like yours is. It looks like it’s close idk if I have to keep cranking down and banging on the hatch until I feel it lock in. Idk lol I don’t wanna break anything.I already tried pressing it down a bit harder and it didn’t wanna go. https://imgur.com/a/kI0Fwf1 idk if the picture helps at all but I’m trying to get the very back end tucked in how you have it.