infyrana

Sure, you'd like to think... But no, cost does not always equate to quality. Sure, Guarder might have gotten a bit better over the years or some people might have gotten lucky with a well made kit, but that's not always the case. For example, you'd have thought drilling the hole for a 1911 dual safety selector would be an easy thing to align, but nope, not for Guarder. Again, that's not to say it was bad on every kit, but at least the one I did was. Providing it fits and works, you should be able to use the plastic outer barrel. But when you have a metal slide, it will be the plastic parts or the weaker metals that will wear down, not the slide. So if there's any rubbing etc, it will reduce the plastic down or simple grind past it. On the flip side, if there's an ill-fitted metal outer barrel, you will need to take a lot of time and care to make it fit right - it's the one upgrade part I hate fitting in metal kits as there's a lot of movement and any badly made parts will stand out by simply jamming up the slide. Mind if I ask what the goal of the full metal kit version will be for? If it's purely for show then it will matter less, but if it's for cold weather skirmishing I'd personally stick to full plastic - but those are probably not your answers.

Aye, please carry on ! The more information we have out in the open the better our decisions can become. I am still pre-Warhead motor ownership atm, I'm just waiting on the prices for the new Ronin version before I dive in - hopefully it won't be too long a wait! I took my intended target for the Warhead motor - a new LCT AK - out for a spin just over a week ago after having given the gearbox a clean up (might have also changed the barrel+hop, spring, cylinder and popped in a spare silent piston head setup I had). I kept the standard not-so-highly-rated LCT motor and ran with a Titan 3000mAh 7.4v, surprisingly it went very smooth and kept running for the entire day, ie no gearbox/motor issues. But the trigger response, oh man, was just poor, almost felt like comparing a pistol AEG to a GBB. Once I get the Warhead motor sorted I'll try and take a note of the RPS before and after if I can. Ideally I'd like to pop it in before I install a Titan Gate to see how much of a difference it makes by itself to the trigger performance. But for now ... ... back to more Warhead comments cheers!

I'd definitely add that BB weight in gas models versus spring / electric, will give different results. I find heavier bb's in gas models work much more efficiently and you'll often see those differences when you plot a graph of chrono results. I forgot to add - if you have to shoot through dense brush at your local site, there is likely more reason to run heavier bb's like the .28's which I see recommended above. One reason being that they are less effective by things like 'leaves on a tree', the added bonus is that the player who's hit often shouts 'hit' a little sooner and clearer for you. On the flip side, a large open site with 150+ players where you need range and plenty of bb's might justify you using something a little cheaper to spread out amongst the enemy team

It's as simple as you putting in the bb you want and going out and using them irregardless of the results. Or it's as expensive and time consuming as you covering a lot of testing to fine tune and get the best result for your toy. Personally I don't run more than .25's in anything up to 350fps in full auto for my old AEG's (those without S-Hop). I've upped that to .3's through .4's for those with S-Hops as the result for distance is better, and run heavier in single shot bolt action or GBB's with double stack gas mags. There's a multitude of factors that will change how your Airsoft toy performs, like the air seal of your particular toy through to cylinder volume and spring, or even the tolerances of your model versus another exactly the same etc etc etc... But here's one way to find a reasonable BB weight for you: (Apologies if it covers things you already know) So firstly, knowing your own AEG and it's current setup will massively help, comparing it to the performance of other players toys of a similar nature will also aid in this, but do remember that not all toys are the same. Once you have a base line with your existing setup and have a good idea of the distance and flight level of your shots (ie how the hop affects the bb towards the ends of the shot), you'll be able to compare any changes you make from there. Next is to remember that not all BB's are made the same - tolerances between BB's (even in the same packet) can vary across manufacturers. For example, you might decide to try those with better quality tolerances (Perfect Fit / Precision / Maruzen Super Grand Masters etc), they are likely to produce better consistent performance, but could also increase the FPS versus another version of the same BB weight (and cost you more). Also, if you buy those with a slightly larger diameter, you may find they jam in a super tight barrel or that your hop setup works differently with them. So if you test, remember to know what you are testing with and that simply keeping the weight but changing the label might result in different results. Grab some of those BB's you want to try (I mean, fill a hi-cap or several low caps with .2's, .23, .25, or .28's etc) and note the manufacturer then go and test. Make sure you test in the same area you did your base line testing, same distance, similar weather (ie not rainy/windy) and if you can, in somewhat similar temperature (temp' changes may affect your hop rubber). I like to remove all the hop and slowly add a little bit at a time, helps to prevent you starting with too much and over hopping it sending the BB vertical lol. Remember, no hop might cause the bb to fall out the end of the barrel, so when I say remove all hop, know this and keep the toy level whilst you test and add a little hop until you can see it take affect then test from there.. On the flip side, do not add way too much hop or you will likely find it jams the bb inside the barrel or knocks your hop totally out of place (bad for s-hops). I also watch the shot from down the side of the barrel to get a better idea of the flatness of the trajectory and adjust the hop accordingly, looking straight down the sights / scope will not give you the best indication unless you're checking for hop / barrel twist sending the bb off to the side. The results should hopefully give you the best indication. Hope this helps, good luck in your choices!

From the dozens of batteries I've been through, it'll be the first Titan. So it's new to me too and I'll be interested to find out how well it performs. Since my LCT came at the lower end of 280fps, I didn't really get to hear yet how fast the motor isn't or how good the battery is (from all that I've read). But we'll soon get that all sorted out to test The blurb on the Warhead Ronin is the opposite to the BASE, with CNC motor and upgraded bearings, rotor, magnets and materials etc. Nice to have choice for those balancing the wallet to quality/performance.

Thanks @Hatchet the video had a nice bit of extra info in that I didn't know. I spotted the BASE model too, definitely worth considering but I think I'd rather stick to the Black for the moment. I see they are doing a new 'Ronin' version too, surpassing the Black variant for performance of parts. The price will tell just how interesting this one will be. Well I picked up my LCT, managed to somehow fit a Titan 7.4v 3k mAh stick in there. So if the Warhead is 'that' efficient, I might just get a full days worth of skirmish out of it lol.

Looking at a potential new motor for an LCT AK and trying to decide between the two. It's been kindly suggested to use something like the ASG Infinity 22k motor to pair with a set of 13:1 gears and a 7.4v Lipo with Titan Gate installed. But I've also wanted to try out the Warhead brushless motors (something airsoft is still a bit behind with), unsure if the Standard would be comparible. Ideally I'm looking for something that will last use and abuse in semi / full auto, something that's snappy to the touch (hence the Titan Gate), but does not need to be a speed demon with RoF. Any helpful advice from experience with these would be much appreciated thank you.

Good luck with the booked event! Don't forget to check, test/wear/setup and otherwise give your gear a run through before you go. Nothing worse than turning up with kit that then fails on you some how. You can't account for everything, but you can certainly try

You could always go to the manufacturers website and view the manual which gives an exploded / strip diagram of the various Warthogs (or the exploded view which is the direct page). Page 14 of the manual, bottom right shows the 9" and 7" differences for the foregrip unit / barrel. Having never had a G&G before, I couldn't tell you if there are any gearbox variations between length variations. https://www.guay2.com/en/product/detail-96 Probably best to keep it untouched for at least one day out - that's the best chance you will get to find any problems that need fixing, especially if you have any sorta warranty to fall back on. Sometimes it's good to learn the faults before you fix them, at least then you'll know what difference any extra purchases do for you. Just be sure to take a backup!