Just Joe

I'll try and check to see if anyone has. I don't have many pals to ask (who airsoft) I'm afraid. That's good to know. Don't fancy messing with the hop arm. Is that a definite that it would cause issues?

Just the one. Its not likes its dropping rapidly, but about half the distance it should (at a guess).

No others BB's to hand. Any suggestions welcome but I've found Valkries to work great in my other krytac (vector) I was adjusting the hop when I really noticed it. Firing with about a second pause to check flight. Can't recall auto. Seems like I have some more testing to do then

Yeah it was surprisingly good. I'm lead to believe, completely standard. Used strictly Valkrie 0.28g BBS. Didn't check particular mags

Hello all, It took my Krytac Trident SPR out for its first day at the weekend. Now I bought this second hand for a bargain of £150, for the price I paid its performance was amazing. It did have a slight issue I haven't come across before! I only really noticed it when using it in semi but about every 6 or 7 shots the BB would just not travel the same distance as the others. I don't have a chrono so I wasn't able to see if it was a drop in FPS (It didn't really look like it however). My thoughts are that I just bought a gun that was relatively tired and could perhaps just do with a hop rubber replacement?

So I just got in, I tried putting every shim i had that came out the AEG onto the bevel gear to negate any play. I had no idea what the size of these shims are though. Hopefully you will see what I mean from this video. It still moves but is better then before. 20201215_174917.mp4 Couple of images of present AOE. And a video. Piston and the sector gear seem to have a very small gap between them. The none pick up side of the gear doesn't look all that round. 20201215_175327.mp4 Video of one of the bearings, this is how I would presume they would all fit If any further videos would help let me know 20201215_175902.mp4 If this aster gate is good I will continue with that. I'm sure with enough patience I'll be able to get it in. First thing for me would be to rebuild this gear box with appropriate shimming

Can I ask why you would do it from the pick up side? I had been following a pinion - bevel first. But I see where you are coming from with doing it this way - I did think that the bevel to pinion had the most tolerance due to how the gears intertwined. Could be horribly wrong on that. I've got a fair bit of patience and plenty of time. I've just issued a return on the Gate Aster - Sounds way to complex for me. Do you have another suggestion for 11.1 set up? I'll try the ML set up on the 9th. See how I get on. Does what I have said seem appropiate for a just achieving a nicer better working AEG?

I do have a big long list of things I need to have done by the 9th Jan. I ordered an SHS cylinder head that will hopefully get the airseal a bit better and reverse the AOE change. For the fucking life of me I can't find the SHS shims I bought. But reshim once I figure out what the hell is going on with the bearing on the bevel gear, I feel like i've missunderstood shimming a bit and it may just need way more shims then the other gears. Hopefully my pictures later clear this up. Dremel 2/3 teeth of the release side of the sector gear M110 spring Install my Gate aster (probably was a bit overkill but couldn't be arsed with soldering) Got to see the difference between bushings and bearings. Presumably going with bushings. I have a maple leaf bucking and nub. Also have all the gear to "R" hop. Tempted but gearbox first. Don't worry about sounding rough, you've gone out your way to help me so thank you.

Thanks for sending this. I can easily enough revert AOE. A SHS cylinder head isn't much money. I feel the airseal isn't good enough as well. The cylinder head sits somewhat loose in the cylinder itself. One thing at a time though. Just following advice from what appear to be reputable airsoft techs. Feel like I'm being told off by my old man here. I'll get some pictures, i'll try and get a video up too later of the bearing issue. I've ordered some 8mm bushings. Based upon what you have said about them requiring less care it makes sense for my current extremely limited abilities. Pictures are clearly going to help massively here so let me get them up but thank you for the help. Thanks for the reply. I'll get some pictures up tonight of everything. I'll upload a picture here of the previous AOE before my treasonous crimes of using a sorbo pad. Based on what you said about the bearings being loose and that shimming will help them in position. This may just be the case, it does seem like I would need a fuck tonne of 0.1mm shimms in order to negate the movement. Would that be normal?

Thanks for your constructive help I can get some up later tonight. Both bearings on the bevel gear are very loose and seem to have an excessive amount of movement to protrude out the gearbox shell. Doesn't happen on the others so seems strange to me. Thank you for your comment

Hi All, I recently bought a G&P Magpul Moe with some miles on the clock for a good price. Bought with the view of learning how to work on gearboxes for myself in the long run. Just figured it was a good place to start as there is plenty of content out there for advise on how to install certain parts and correct methods. I've stripped the gear box and I'm currently in the process of getting my head around AofE and shimming. I believe I've correct A of E correctly with a sorbo pad, the sector gear meets the piston at around the 1 o'clock position with the spring in. The sorbo pad however, in diameter a 0.5-1mm wider then that of the cylinder head. Is that much of an issue or not? Secondly, looking at the shimming. When I opened up the gearbox I found that there was bearings instead of bushings, which I wasn't expecting. The bearings in certain sections have a tiny amount of movement, but on the bevel gear, quite alot. I will try and upload a video but its close to 1mm maybe pushing 2mm movement in the cut out for the bearing (horizontal movement when gear box is upright). From my understanding this will negate any shimming efforts by myself, its quite a lot of movement. I have ordered some SHS bushings, however if I get the same effect I feel logic says I would have to bond the bearings or bushings into the gearbox. If I do have to do this, is best to have the bearing/bushing in as deep as possible and then shim from this point? Also, bearing or bushings? The plan is to stick to stock internals, install a gate aster mosfter and run 11.1 Lipo on the stock GPM120 motor. Any advice on the points above would be great!