Samwise

Not disputing the fact that have done and continue to offer high-end upgrade packages but the first question I always ask is 'what's your budget' followed by 'what are you looking to achieve'. From there, I can tailor each build to the customer's specific requirements. Side note, I have never built anything with solely Prommy internals I always select each component based on its own merit with respect to the budget and performance targets. I continually optimise the parts I use and offer based on their performance, price point and availability. @Alex34 Turnaround is currently around 10 days if I have all the parts required in stock That's been my biggest focus over the last decade closely followed by improving communication.

Nice one The Perun ETU++ is the way to go then. You can use basically any microswitch for the trigger and selector. I generally epoxy a smaller switch under the cutoff lever that protrudes from the gearbox. Attach the wires to the switch first then cover it with heatshrink before applying the epoxy. The heatshrink helps prevent any rogue glue from working its way into the switch assembly so don't skip that step! Here's how I set up the switches in a Mac10 body. I know I have more pics somewhere, I'll see if I can find them...

Which AEP do you have specifically? For a microswitch trigger where you want to keep semi-auto, you'll need something that can detect the gearbox cycling. In that case, the only option is the Perun ETU++ You can hook that up with microswitches to detect the trigger, selector and cutoff lever so that'll give you full control over the gearbox. You'll need to manually glue each microswitch in place and make your own data cable to plug in to the ETU++ but they give you the pin-out at the end of the manual. It's not so hard in a CMG (MP7, Mac10 etc) but in the pistols, it gets really tight. I've done it once before in a pistol and it's a bit of a nightmare, I'll not be doing it again any time soon 😛 If you're not fussed about the microswitch trigger, a Perun simple MOSFET would be fine or an AB++ if you want programming options but not the hassle of installing the microswitches.

Haha, yeah same here. The way it's worded now is much better so my comment is largely unneeded. I tend to add edits to the bottom so the flow of the conversation is a little easier to follow.

Back-EMF is best EMF 🤣 Also, it doesn't limit the top speed nor generate heat. That's the current. As the motor speeds up, it generates more Back-EMF which causes the motor to draw less power. This happens when the momentum of the gearbox builds up and lessens the load on the motor ie. during full-auto. Or when the load drastically reduces eg. a stripped piston. You could say Back-EMF is actually a good thing for DC brushed motors. At the very least it is a necessary comonent without which, DC brushed motors would not work.

Err, are you sure about that? Magnetic fields are created by charged particles when they move through a medium. Static charged particles create no magnetic field. Current is defined as the net rate of flow of charged particles through a medium. Voltage is the potential difference between two points, it's like the pressure on the charged particles. Voltage is the push but something has to actually move to create the magnetic field. Edit: I've gotta add this here to show that this comment was originally in reply to a much simpler comment that has been expanded somewhat.

Yup, I can conform that is the hop adjustment lever They do tend to vibrate loose during use so it's often a good idea to put a wide shim and even a small o-ring under the screw that holds the primary hop arm in place on the chamber. The one that the lever you've pictured goes in to at the bottom.

I probably said the burst was the most important rating For most of the use a battery sees in Airsoft, it'll not be getting too stressed for so long that it can't recover so the burst rating is the most useful - if it is accurate of course. I've found that the ratings on Nuprol batteries aren't particularly useful, usually overestimated by a decent margin whereas the Turnigy ones are generally pretty good. The current in the wire creates the magnetic field, not the voltage. The current moves due to the voltage so you could say it's indirectly responsible but it is the current that actually creates the magnetic field around the wire. This is also why the magnetic field weakens as the motor gets faster, which has a range of useful side-effects for Airsoft. When the coils pass by the static magnets, they act like a generator producing Back-EMF (reverse voltage). The power used by the motor is the supply voltage minus the reverse voltage times the current. So when the motor speeds up, the reverse voltage closes in on the supply voltage and lowers the current use. There will always be a load applied in an Airsoft gearbox so it'll tend towards a certain figure but on full-auto, it can reach a fairly steady state. In terms of voltage drops during load, it's complex and varies greatly between different chemistries and various other factors. I can't say I've memorised all characteristics of all batteries in all situations 🤣but I do have a rough understanding of some of the effects. The power capability of a battery pack is dependent on its voltage and impedence - which is kinda like resistance except that it changes based on 'stuff' (you can quote me on that) due to chemistry and other things. The impedence of a pack tends to rise as current flows, if the pack is rated for a low discharge (C - which is not coulombs but a battery specific symbol) and a higher load is applied then the impedence will rise even faster, causing a voltage drop. Interesting, the flow of current will heat up the pack which can actually improve the capacity. On a cold day, using your gun in longer bursts (eg 3x10 second bursts) can make the battery last longer than a similar number of shots fired more intermittently (eg 10x3 second bursts). To answer the OP's question, think of it like this: The voltage sets the maximum speed the gun can achieve The C rating (or more accurately, the total pack discharge) is how close to that speed you actually get. If your gun needs a burst of 40A on startup and 30A for continuous full-auto then having a battery that can only supply 20A will limit your performance all round. In the same setup, having a battery that can provide 30A will give you better (but still sub-optimal) performance on semi and will allow full-auto to perform at full speed. Having a battery that can provide more than 40A will allow everything to operate as fast as it 'wants' to but without stressing the battery. The higher the number, the less stress the battery will get and the longer it will last, in terms of charge/discharge cycles. I know I've rambled on a bit so feel free to ask any questions and if I've gotten anything wrong, please do let me know. There's only one thing more fun than geeking out and that's finding someone else with more knowledge 😃