LordGeorge

Indeed, i need to get a mosfet without AB , AB really cant help much on wear and temps. My negotiating skills certainly seemed to have payed off, i contacted the seller and has agreed to help replace the motor. Lets see how we get on

Thanks for your input ian. I can clarify that both o-ring and cylinder are fine. And while there is no air leaks between the piston/cylinder/head/nozzle and hop i seemed to hit a road block. I wanted to look more into the issue with the sticky piston issue, which AF-UK pointed out I should have a freely moving piston. My piston head was certainly a problem, while it does not leak. The piston head was far to large to fit freely inside the cylinder. As soon as any side to side play is put on the piston as it travels, the sides of the head would catch the cylinder wall and slow it down, or stick if pushed by hand. I foruntnately had a spare pom piston head that fit a hell of a lot better, shame my AO is now out . Not by much though so no worries. Unfortunately while working on the shell, one of the bearings for the sector gear popped little BB babies everyhwhere, ok no worries i got spares... ah wait i have 6/7/9 mm bearings but no 8s ! Typical. Should have bearing by tuesday. Untill then i cant really test anymore. Everything else looks good, so once parts come i will find out how this gets on. As for lubricant, i have been using 100% silicone jell by webbs for air seal parts and ptfe for guides and tappet plate to case. I know the lube cant be my issue here as bulding many guns and fixing a whole lot more,i have never had any issues. I will certainly get some of that though . After all these issues, im bulding a HPA kit to be finished the end of the year. Lets hope i have less issues with that . report back tues/wed Cheers George

I wouldn't agree that after 4 months of having what is supposed to be a good motor to then replace it. It's not really been used allot.

Thanks dude will certainly check to ensure the piston gets stuck or not. From what I remember. It doesn't slide around but does move a little. My only trouble is the fact is nothing else's changed, the gun has fired 100fps better with the same piston. Either way I will check. Will update tomorrow !!

Well 4 months later, the rps had dropped a little and as for arcing. YES ALLOT. If i run the motor in my hand "tightly" and watch the bushings, the arcing from the point of contact while running and the flash created when i drop off the power is quite something.

Haha yes, it works well but not ideal. Update. Still no luck, not had a huge amount of time to test but still not progressing. The only thing i have found is when blowing down the nozzle, on occasion i can blow and hear air passing the head. Once i blow a bit harder the seal kicks in and back to normal. I actually re-shimmed the gears while at it, re lubed and sealed everything with no change. Slight rps increase. My only argument for my piston is if the piston is not 100% and i mean 100% straight with the cylinder, it suffers from allot of resistance and sticking. I could not hold the cylinder and drop the piston in, but this has been a problem since i had the parts and never used to be a problem. The piston simply wouldn't fall straight enough to slide down. But when it is straight in the cylinder it has very little problem moving. I am wondering if some bias in the spring or even the piston is causing the piston head to catch on the walls of the cylinder too much. This may explain why its been acting a goat since the piston got jammed. Most likely indicate a slightly bent piston. As well as the slow rps for a lonex A1 supreme. Though nothing is visually damaged, bent or wearing . Hmmm

Haha, im on the earl grey tonight. Very intoxicating lol Yeah dud the cylinder and head are fine

Sorry for the late reply, gone and got a WE hk416 gbb today for my next project "daytona" and have been working on a problem with what i later found was the bolt carrier sliding too far back due to the magpull pts stock thats too deep. Huge spacers later.. Fixed Ok, so following your post earlier i checked both airseal's between barrel and nozzle. So assembling receivers with nozzle fully extended and blowing down the end of the barrel and was perfect. I then tested directly on the nozzle, which i had done before. I only found that i could blow into the nozzle and hear a leak when the piston was all the way back when fired from full auto. No matter how many times i tried on semi, there was no problem. Maybe the airloss at the end of the stroke is to blame. As far as it goes with the mag causing the problem, its not possible on the we mk17 as in the magwell is a feeder that feeds directly to the bottom of the hopup. And very true, up untill now i have been able to fix AEG issues no problem. Always learning Not silly at all, fortunately yet My piston is a very tight fit and if not exactly straight in the cylinder causes it to get stuck "only a issue when out of the case, when under a m110 it dear not" . Always been there and never a problem

I couldnt agree more, i know its going to be the smallest possible thing. While tinkering last night, i found that if i blow down the nozzle "OH GOD NO" air was passing the piston. I have a very strong feeling this is the problem. My only argument is while compressing the pison i have no leak. I can say 100% the tappet plate and spring are fine so i may have found the issue. Need to get home to check it more. If it is pissing air past the piston ring, hopefully a replacemnt O ring will do. Have many spare normal O rings but i have a boreup piston head and cylinder. Will report back later. Cheers for the help dudes.

Just out of interest, as its too late for me to check on another AEG. When you cycle semi auto shot. The nozzle on mine stops retracted and not extended. Would it be possible that its pulling away from the hop before it should causing a sudden but slight drop in the fps. Nothing fundermental has changed in the gun so not sure how something like overspin could of occured, what you tink ?

Haha no worries, my grammar is not good at the best of times. All sounds good above, i am 99.9% sure the internals are fine. Nozzle moves freely with no issues, nothing else was changed so the lengh is also ok. I do agree but by design, this we is impossible to check any other leaks from nozzle to hop. I am trying any wierd and wonderfull ideas now at almost 1pm, lets hope i dont wake the missus

Well i checked any airleak from the bb' feeder in the magwell and found no air what so ever moving. Indicating no air is leaking from the hopup. The trouble is i have the we mk17 scar, it has very little in the way of holding the gearbox straight besides the pistol grip. Unfortunately the doublefeeding issue was way before the fps dropped like a stone. I would agree the hopup has something to do with it but i cannot find any evidence to support it.

Hey guys To say the least, i broke the holy law of "If it aint broke, DONT fix it". While doing a routine checkup on my v2 gearbox i was doing a few things. Installed a rhop onto the barrel which gave amazing results and a fps gain. I was at the time firing 350fps consistently, VERY HAPPY. while working on perfecting the firing i noticed a small issue with double feeding, to the point where two would pop out and one usually shattered into many many peices. So for any shotgun lovers, not bad. Cut a long story short of finding little wrong with the hopup i then focused on the nozzle. I found that on semi auto the nozzel held back at the end of the stroke as normal. But long enough to cause a stray couple of bbs to slip in. I then proceeded to open up the case to do a cleanup and check the nozzle and tappet plate. To find the gears spotless and no clear issues with the entire gearbox, I then put it back together for testing. Took first shot .... not bang or pop of piston. Looking into the window to find the entire piston had twisted on its side. Being a total dubass but easily done, i had miss alligned the piston from its rails while pushing the sping back into the case. So split the case again and correct the issue, with no damage, twisting or shredding of gears "phew", all but a little mark on the piston rack where the sector had caught it. Besides that no problems. Complete the rebuild and test gearbox and all good with smooth complete cycles. I then go to chrono the gun as usual after any work to find quite shockingly a fps drop between 50-100 fps :o Since then i have rulled out as much as possible. Compression on piston and cylinder is great, with no leaks on cylinder head. No leaks from head to nozzle "no pun inteneded" Check hopup and find no issues. No leaking from rhop and flat hopped bucking. I then re-installed the origional hopup bucking and barrel to find roughly the same issue. I did however notice that occasionaly after rebuilding the box/hopup i would get a few shots that were back at the 340fps mark, then followed by a low 230s. I have been working on these AEG's for quite some time and have built many boxes. I am tottaly mystified what has gone on. The only two defining points where the hopup and the cok up with the piston. I need a fresh pair of eyes.. Any ideas would be brilliant Cheers George

Update 1 Got a We Hk416 D donor, should have some fun before hand. Planned order from TNK guns. Cheers to tony over there, been a great help. Will most likely order the daytona kit in roughly a month. Just wanted to query the tank, while browsing on grange airsoft. Found the 100ci 4.5k fibre tanks. They are clearly strong enough but how do people find them ? Also as proffrink quoted "Consider a Ninja regulator over the Guerilla. Even the G3 isn't that brilliant from what I've been told on the DG group and they all swear by the Ninja Pro (and Pro V2) regs" I dont know much about regulators, pros/cons besides what they do. Could anyone explain why one regulator is any different from another ? Excuse my ignorance, early days Next is does anyone how long the wide bore hose is on the firebase regulator kit ? Demonstrated : http://www.grangeairsoft.com/hpa-airsoft-accessories-redline-airsoft-fire-base-air-rig-rig-rlfb/dp/225 And finaly regarding, having as little QD's on the airline due to the resisance. Wouldnt really cause any problems having a single QD to the gun. But considering from the tank you woul have 2 points of resisance then two more on the QD's. Would it really make that much of a difference ? If its the matter of a few rps then no biggy. Cheers George

Wow thanks for your input proffrink !! Fortunately i have given this much thought as the scuba tank and filler are already sorted for me. I have had a little cry at the setup costs and have pre taped my rear up, ready for day 1. I will certainly look at the larger tanks, i did see the larger gurilla tank but the price sky rockets when you hit 4.5k psi on a 88ci tank. I have sourcd the tank from a UK retailer so no issues with delivery My plan was to take it easy with the tank and use the skuba tank to refill between games, later on i would then look at a beefy tank. I am actually waiting for my first Z-kit from airlab to come monday for my mk17 AEG, cant wait ! The high to low regulator i have been looking at getting from the grangeairsoft which has the QD on it already by the looks of it. http://www.grangeairsoft.com/hpa-airsoft-accessories-redline-airsoft-fire-base-air-rig-rig-rlfb/dp/225 Thanks for the advice on the tank regulator, something to add to the list Luckily my boss does diving quite allot so his experience has come in handy. I did stumble across the orga barrels while looking into what setups people go for and was one on my list but not straight away I have been chatting to tony via email regarding the kits and has been great help, i may very well discuss the import charge . I am pretty handy when it comes to mechanics so the installation shouldnt be too bumpy Cheers for the advice ! George

Hey all After a fruitfull year shooting and getting shot with AEG's im planning on moving to HPA. More specifically a Daytona HPA. Personally the best by far when it comes to "Realism","please note the abreviation" in airsoft. Polarstars are a heap of fun but create too much stigma between players regarding the RPS and the pain caused by naughty boys cheating the system. Appart from the smp/wolverine type systems i really wanted a working botl carrier etc.. End of rant.. I am drawing the inital plans on kit which include the following. Gun: Undecided HPA: TNKGUN "Daytona" Tank:Guerrilla Air MYTH PRO 62ci / 3000psi Regulator: Redline firebase Backpack: Undecided I would really like anyone with the experience of the HPA enviroment to give their ideas and thoughts as it is quite a pricey investment. This is the initial plan and have no plans to upgrade gun internals like r-hop,wide bore untill settled. I have been looking at the camelbak packs but simply cant justify the cost for a bag, any recemdations would be awsome! Would be ace to hear from you guys as i embark on this mamoth of a quest. Cheers George

Unfortunately with the 3.2 you cant turn off AB . The HARD model can turn it off, the biggest pain in the ass is i cant simply remove the mosfet as its wired into the contacts. May be best to get a spare anyway. Haha we all have those moments

Yeah i have seen this around, i may get the gate HARD. That can turn off AB. If it gives me some extra battery life and less heat then im happy with that. Just amazed nobody else has posted previous to this, with the same isssue.

I spent many a hour shimming the shell, bevel to pinion. The gears sping freely and i can push the gears around just about when motor is engaged. I can certainly double check the shim but as i said, considering i have had the same results in or out the gun. I dont think the issue is the gearbox.

Hey dude I have re-done the shell top to bottom. The shimming is perfect and runs nice and quiet. There was almost no ware on any gears after my last event that went through 3000+ bbs. Grease is a different subject in its own as im testing different types at the mo. If it helps, this issue is the same if i physically hold the motor and give it a wizz with mo load. "When i say hold, i mean myself to the ground" hehe I do agree i should be getting more rps. Thanks

Hey Guys/Gals I have touched on this subject on another discussion but wanted to make a clear subject on this issue. Firstly lest state what i have. 1450mah 25c 11.1v lipo Gate Merf 3.2 mosfet Deans connectors 14/16 AWG cable. 18:1 gears m110 spring Lonex A1 Supreme RPS:25 With that on the table. My main issue at this moment is how hot the bushing on the motor gets when firing both semi and auto roughly 400 rounds. That motor gets very warm, especially the bushings "so hot you dearnt touch them". Motor not so hot but certainly warm. On saturday while messing about and 400 bbs later, noticed a slight issue with the firing. Thinking it was a loose spade connector, i opened the housing to find the cabling fine. But then noticed a big build up of carbon around the outside of the pistol grip. Dont get me wrong it wasnt piling up, but for 400 + bbs that was allot. Just to confirm, the cabling does not get warm at all and only the mosfet and battery get warm. But not enough to be concerned. I would like to blame the motor/battery and rps but many people run much higher rps and stronger spings and dont seem to have the same issue. I touched on a previous discussion i had that the battery wasnt quite up to the job, thus causing excess strain on the motor. I also found this while looking through the mosfet manual that may support the battery issue. UVP Under Voltage Protection Protects rechargeable Li-Ion: Li-Poly / LiFePO4 and NiCd against excessive discharge. Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions? Cheers George

I did indeed Hey.. again That is perfectly fine being honest, I am very new to the modding scene on airsoft. "I only took up the sport this year" But due to my dad and my job, perfection and efficientcy is OCD level. So where the smallest change to improve could be done, I did . Yeah like i stated in a earlier post, i really dont want to run hot. I got smacked in the face by a polar star that got let loose on some un-godly pressure and at roughly 30m it Fu#kin hurt. From then on i had no intention of playing naughty. I have been up untill now using .25s as my fps was much lower and allowed space to use them. As far as downgrading the output, i am planning to take the piston bearing out. And most likely drop my m100 spring back in. As long as 350fps on .2g almost every shot, im happy. My accuracy is pretty dam good aswell. Yeah, i deffinately wont be short stroking the piston due to the volume issue. The m100 spring should pop those numbers back down to a nice position. I did think about winding the hop, but on the scheme of things. There is little point as it will most likely cause your bbs to fly every where else but the target. So naturally would undo it. Then running too hot again. Yeah well when my sector broke in the exact same place, i eneded up getting a good set of 18:1 gears. So the 11.1v shouldnt do any shredding any time soon. I stipped it down after 2000+ rounds and the gears has so little ware, i had to clean them down for re-lubing and look at every tooth. Still to find no paint marks etc.. As for mags onsite, my current local does not conduct this but are very hot on chrono and spot checks. On a side note, i would love them to find a way of fitting a mag in the scar H without using my mags lol Im not too fussed on rps, 20 to 25 is perfect if that a little high. I want a quieter set of gears and motor. I think future, i will get some CQC gun and DSG that for as much rps as possible for the lols.

Quick update I may need to take a bearing out.. or two.. I was adament that i was loosing power somewhere, after looking top to bottom i was left with the hop-up and barrel. Barrel is a madbull 6.03 python. Its one of the best barrels i have seen to date. Next, hopup.. The houpup on the WE scar H is not the best. But functional. I did however notice that the hopup rubber and barrel were a bit loose... and under pressure allows air to pass between rubber and barrel.. not good. So like everything else air/pressure related, i added only one wrap of gas ptfe tape under the end of the hopup rubber. Squeezed the rubber back on and also added another wrap to secure the barrel O ring. Plopped it back together and gave it a wizz. My first few shots were on .25's and i got a solid 350 fps . I then went to .2 and got a max of 387fps . From ensureing a improved air seal on the hopup, i got roughly 30/40 fps improvement. So going back to what i said.. time to remove one of the bearings to geth those numbers under control. Cheers

I charged the 11.1v and got 24rps fresh. The battery was pretty low before . Cool thanks for the notes, my main issue is WE gave very little space in the crane stock to fit mcuh more than the nunchucks im using, I will have to be inventive to get the nuprol one in.. Wheres the fun with no challenge. Unfortunately the merf 3.2 has no option to turn AB off, i have seen their new HARD model does allow on/off. If its whats causing the issue then will look into getting another fet, but i do like the solid cycle with AB. Well i was looking down the gears route and my main issue is, if i go to a lower ratio. My RPS is going to go mental, 24 is more than enough for my needs. I was however toying with some 100:200 helicals from super shooter. I know allot of people are for or against. But from a mecanical mind, it should be much better. Both reliablility and sound. Allot of people blame the teeth being too thin and causing breaks, if propperly shimmed this should never happen as the cross sectional surface is usually 10-20% larger than strait cut. The biggest issue i see is the vertical torque of the gears. I have aimed down the route of removing as much motor/gear wine as possible. The piston is very quiet. I am blaming the A1 for most the noise. Though it is a nice Motor Also, has anyone ever seen any we mk17 mid/high cap flash mags ? I have looked high and low and you can only get the mid cap wind mag. I ended up buying some lonex m4 flash mags and making my own mag extention to get the mag sitting snug in the well. Cheers

Ok so results day it is!! Got new xcortech x3500 instead Very good btw... Anyway, the results are a little odd. The Fps is as follows.. 0.2g = 350fps 0.25g= 318fps The rps is also lower, at roughly 21rps with a uncharged battery. I am happy with the results and thankfully sits within the site legal numbers, but mechanically it does arrise some questions. The sping is a lonex m110 spring and from what i have seen of spings so far is long but soft in comparison to others. The rating of this spring is 350-370 so also fits on the lower end of the scale. This lower result is most certainly down to the larger cylinder volume slowing the piston down on compression. My next query is the battery... I am using a we 1450mah 30c battery, along with the gate mosfet, 14awg cabling and deans connectors. The cable does not get even slightly warm but the battery does, the battery was even getting warm when i was breaking the gears in with nothing but the motor and gears spining. "also the same with only the motor and battery connected" The only thing i can add is the temps seem to rise much quicker when firing in semi. There is no change under load. My only theory is that the motor is drwaing too much amp, thus causing risen temps on the battery. It is a new battery and is in perfect condition as well as being charged correctly. It only lasts roughly 2000rds. So would a nuprol 11.1v 3200mah do the trick ? I would like a battery that also doesnt run out so quick lol Whats your thoughts ? Cheers George