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Picked up some AttackSense yesterday Now I have to get an Android device to run the drills coz I’m an Apple fanboi 🤦🏻‍♂️

The Beretta M92 is probably the best looking pistol man will ever manufacture. The Hi Power is a close second. https://www.specsavers.co.uk/

Out of interest I have tried to do a field design based on this site, using the information available on the planning portal. Particularly I wanted to test whether the very linear layout of the existing mall could be made into something more playable. So I tried to implement some theories from video game level design and see if they can be applied here. The below is an illustration of a possible design and the steps I had taken. Step 1 Design preparations First we need to allocate space to the safe zone and game zone etc. There are two main existing entrances to the mall but the escalators to the south in my opinion will not be suitable because they cannot function as stairs nor fire escape, so if they are permanently turned off this entrance cannot be safely used. Therefore we can only use the north entrance as the main entrance, accordingly the safe zone (and its size requirement for 50 visitors) is placed next to the entrance lobby. The lobby has enough space for a small reception and waiting area and probably even a small shop. Staff and guest toilets are upstairs from the safe zone. My design is heavily based on the concept of "lanes" in game level design which refers to the overall pathing network of the map. The immediate issue is too many dead-ends, which is an absolute nono in level design, so before we can even design anything we need to eliminate these dead-ends by creating loops. This is achieved by demolishing the existing partition walls (where structurally permitted) to create openings near the end of these dead-ends, so they can continue their paths and loop back into the map. At the bottom space where it is only reachable via a choke point, I have walled off the path to effectively create another loop that can be meaningfully progressed from one side through another. This becomes the basic "topology" of the map that we can start to work on. Step 2 Topological interventions Looking at the topology it is immediately obvious the central lane is too connected and will attract too much action from everywhere, in game level design terms this is too many options for the player to choose from. Three precision cuts can prune this network into several distinct sectors with an acceptable number of optional paths to progress through. Due to the shape of how this is arranged, it seems natural to place the two team spawn points on left and right, so there are multiple optional sectors and paths for them to fight through. If the spawns are top and bottom it would appear too much choke points will be in the middle and the winding paths near the two spawns will not see too many action therefore wasted space. Step 3 Cover placement and distances With the schematic from the previous step we can start to sketch out where to put the covers and checking the distances. At this point I was only concerned with the gameplay itself and not think too much about scenic design, which will come later. For example I am only placing the high or low covers based on how the space can be progressed through, and trying to have a variation of tactical options for each situation. For areas near the two spawns I would also try to give advantage to the home team to try to help them progress back towards the middle. There are 4 Point Of Interests (for objectives) placed in each zone, and by measuring the distances from each spawn their positions can be tweaked for balance. By happy accident only two can be balanced and the other two is giving each of the team a slight advantage, which should be good for various game modes (e.g. bomb diffusion). This is also when fire escapes distances could be checked to make sure at every point from the map there is a suitable escape route for fire safety reasons and compliance with regulations (drawing illustrative only, not fire safety advice). (Disclaimer: This post is not professional advice. To comply with building regulations and dealing with planning conditions and other stuff please consult professionals.) Step 4 Scenic design Once we have the schematic of roughly how the tactical gameplay is conducted, we can start to make it pretty and immersive. The four "sectors" of the map makes a good template for different biomes or themes to take place. In this example I have made up some themes like "Mall" and "Factory" and "Office" and "Airfield". This can then guide how we can choose what objects to put up as cover, and what kind of non-functional decorative doodads to put up on walls and so on. For example in the "Mall" each of the rooms can be a different vendor with different themes e.g. restaurant or fashion shop or phone shop etc. which influences the atmosphere or feel or even distribution of covers of each space. Again for example the "Factory" can be heavily decorated with fake pipes or barrels. And in the "Airfield" with decorations associated with an airport like check-in counters or duty-free shops and so on. Notice I have put the "Airfield" to the south area to make use of the high level of natural lighting to suit the atmosphere, and the "Factory" in the middle so it is darker. Step 5 Detail designs and construction and so on (no image) The remaining steps are just realising the interior design, prop design, signage placement, lighting, etc. to generally follow the themes of each zone or room. I don't have a drawing here because this can be heavily influenced by the aesthetic taste of the business operator and their budget and so on. This is also where the practical and safety details to be added like fire escape signage, or transitional thresholds from safe zone to game area, or special floor markings etc. In this example there may also be visibility concerns because the glass curtain walling to the south (facing the high street) may need to be blacked out to prevent pedestrians from seeing the RIFs, so is the entrance lobby to the north. In terms of construction, the decorations and covers and props and other doodads can be simple pieces of woodwork or metalwork. There could even be interactive elements e.g. electronic or manually operated installations. It can be really creative and use savaged car parts or heavy machines and so on as cover or decoration. Once construction is complete and the necessary props added, the site should be functional and playable and rest is getting outside of the scope of map design. In conclusion, this is just a sketch exercise for me to dabble into airsoft field design but I think this map that I have drawn should play fairly well and look fairly immersive given some creativity and budget. Any criticism and suggestions are very welcome.

Civvy UKSF gear and KS-1 Build finished (I think 😂)

I printed this hex suppressor (file from cults iirc), then added a little (fake) gold leaf on the main body … I quite like it, the gold is there but it’s not too shouty imho

A couple of shotguns.

This is a UK forum, we can only help with lollipop stick builds.

Added the peq15 box ad the acog on an aluminium riser, to see over the top of thee peq. So just some pics because I like my new toy.

Hey folks, I thought we were a friendly bunch here? Here you go Oli_Bacon mine is dissassembled too, hope it helps.

You know that guy that thinks he's funny, but everyone else is cringing?

Had a Colt Commando sitting on the shelf feeling a little unloved & not really period correct as it has an A3 flat top, only realised the other day that it's closer to being a Mk18 Mod0, swopped a RAS rail from an M4A1 & a spare stock and Fanny's your Aunt. I fancy doing a GarandThumb style Mk18 & this M910a (ish) grip arrived today, will order a PEQ2, Knights style suppressor, different RDS & a CQBS next week.

Agree strongly. M9's just scream 'l mean business' it's a mans* gat. I have three. Two Airsoft and one 4.5mm co2. It's metal on metal at its best. There are a couple in the classifieds that I'm salivating over 🤤 *And ladies...

Western gats ktw 1897 a&k 1892 tanaka colt Jupiter finnish tanaka colt Pegasus 2 aps shell modded hawsan sawn off we c96 Mauser IMG_4955.mov

Ahoy and welcome. No, not personally. I assume that's the LayLax automatic BB loader. UK prices seem to range from £50 (if they had any) into the £60s (if they had any). There's shill review here which shows it working out of the box, but it's not that fast and clearly struggles to half-fill and EPM1. The comments aren't very complimentary. Nice that it comes with multiple adaptors, but I'd stick to an Odin or clone, given that replacing Odin internals costs a fraction of throwing one of these away when it breaks. Also, Odins and clones are available, but it seems nobody has bothered re-stocking these.

Yeah, but who read them? obviously not me.

Now you have said it I'm going to as well. I don't like glocks either. There. I feel better now 😁

Thanks to @Lozart for setting me up with some medium scope mounts that are the perfect height since the low mounts it came with were too low. I wanted it as low as possible and with the medium rings it's less than 1mm clearance over the rear sight, so it's perfect! M14 recce setup is now done!

Most airsofters: "You don't need 25x magnification on your rifle" Me: fits 3.5-25x56mm scope to m700

Different sites and events will have different criteria and rules. Some make it calibre based such as only 7.62/.308 replicas. Others have minimum engagement distances with power levels. Bolting a scope on a M4 and using it to spam semi at a higher power, is looked down on by many.

So been working on this bad boy. Still not finished. But its getting there... So it's an ares A3 Managed to fit the angry gun mlok rail to it. Added the C Reinforcement sections. Hka3 added to rear. LLM03 3d printed Not seen in pic is the QR codes added to both sa80 and os4. Still to do; Laser engraved the os4 Make a pressure pad and 3d print the coupling. Weather it all.

Hi all, well I’ll give you all possibly my closing results lol. It’s been a while but there was school holidays and I still needed to get the kit back from calibration. The end result was all 30 balls sampled were the right weight, they were the right size with a finish nearly the same as the standard variant. The rest of the bottle was fired off, again chronoing near 1.13j but I noticed a diminished changed half a mag in so Chronod gun again with the same site chrono and the gun dropped to 0.97j. Completely puzzled I stripped the gun to find that I have a split gearbox, not the good kind, the catastrophic kind. So this ends my investigation 😂. If it wasn’t for the fact my daughters gun over performed on the magic bbs I would wonder if the split gear box played a part. Im exhausted.

Todays load out: TM Sig P226R TM MP7A1 Ferro Concepts Slickster with 5.56mm insert

Not 3d printed yet Working on an airsoft SA80 BFA, it’s very rough currently but hoping to get it working asap

So, I haven't shared this yet despite having it sat around for a few months. For context this was a boneyard A&K Masada/ACR. When I got it, the exterior of the rifle was scuffed, chipped and dented beyond belief and the previous owner had even super glued rails to the handguard. Instead of fixing the ambi fire selector properly, they had also super glued the fire selector on which I've since fixed. Since it was already destroyed externally I decided to go the absolute opposite way of what I normally go for, so I went with the brightest colours I could think of. Is it cursed? I think I actually prefer it to the standard look of most of my RIFs.

The aforementioned upgraded SCAR in action at the weekend!

First ever time playing on a Saturday Which was a great idea, as it allowed me a Sunday to do house renovations, whilst aching!

New 'inexpensive' DMR build. Base gun is a polymer GE 417, for weight and low price. Out of the box it was pretty horrid , but tbf for what it cost I wasn't expecting much. Gearbox is a long V2 with a mosfet and some sort of electronic full auto set up, no COL and a micro switch whitch enables full auto. I'm not realy a fan of mosfets as I see it as adding unnecisary electronic crap, ( and I'm normally running GBBR) but I'll concede that the lack of COL is handy in a semi locked pew. I've replaced the piston head and added a slightly longer double o ring nozzle, compression is now awesome. Switched to a ZCI rotary hop and inner barrel, along with a M/L rubber and Omega nub. Also a high torque motor. Now running at 1.78j on my home chrono on .36BBs. Quick blow over with Halfords paint to make it look a bit less plastic and added a few spare decals I had. It'll get a run out next game to shake it down, but happy with that.