No Power Until Power Off and On

[jonesy17]

Hi all,

 

Had my first Skirmish today and took my G&G CM16 Predator. 

 

First game was all good, however subsequent games I was finding that I would lose complete power intermittently. 

All would be fine and then I'll pull the trigger and it would be dead. No sign of life. 

 

At first I thought the battery had died so I swapped it out. 

All worked fine for about 5 mins or so and then the same thing. 

I ended up having to disconnect the battery and reconnect to get it to fire up again. 

 

For the last game I switched back to my Nuprol battery and the final game was fine. No power issues. 

 

Anyone had anything similar?

No signs of any jams, no whirring noise so it seems like it lost all power or maybe the MOSFET just refused to work?

 

I am using 9.6v 1600mah NiMH batteries. Which is the recommended voltage according the the box and instructions. 

Though I appreciate LiPOs are the preferred battery type. 

 

Thanks in advance!

[Colin Allen]

I assume that the Nuprol battery is an 11.1v; the G&G mosfets really need an 11.1v.

[jonesy17]

Hey, thanks for the reply!

Both of my batteries are 9.6v NiMH. 

I'll have a look at 11.1v in that case to see if that gives it more consistent power. Hopefully it's just that the 9.6v NiMH was dropping in voltage. 

[Colin Allen]

1 hour ago, jonesy17 said:

Hey, thanks for the reply!

Both of my batteries are 9.6v NiMH. 

I'll have a look at 11.1v in that case to see if that gives it more consistent power. Hopefully it's just that the 9.6v NiMH was dropping in voltage. 

The G&G mosfets cut off when the battery voltage drops below a certain level.  That level is much closer to the full battery charge for a 9.6v than it is for an 11.1v.

The experience that you had is quite common when running G&G mosfets on anything lower than an 11.1v battery.

However, some G&G mosfets run fine on 9.6v, 8.4v or 7.4v; G&G sent me one when I had a conversation with them about it.

The best thing you can do is replace the mosfet (not the trigger unit) with a Perun ETU++; it does not mind which voltage you use and has a number of useful features.

[jonesy17]

Thank you again! I'll have a Google to see whether it's something I think I could do myself. Much appreciated!

[Colin Allen]

25 minutes ago, jonesy17 said:

Thank you again! I'll have a Google to see whether it's something I think I could do myself. Much appreciated!

It is a five minute job.  https://perunairsoft.pl/products/etu_plusplus/

[jonesy17]

You are a star!! 

I'll give that a go, and I'll also look into the 11.1 LiPOs and a good LiPO charger. Hopefully that'll make it more stable. 

 

Much appreciated again. 

[Colin Allen]

If you install the Perun, you can run any battery.

 

However, NiMHs are old technology; LiPOs are much better.

 

The SkyRC chargers are very good.

[jonesy17]

Ah perfect. I'll do that and keep my NiMHs back as backups. 

 

Hopefully Perun do ETU++ with Tamiya connectors, if not I guess I just need to buy the Deans to Tamiya adaptor.  

[Colin Allen]

1 hour ago, jonesy17 said:

Ah perfect. I'll do that and keep my NiMHs back as backups. 

 

Hopefully Perun do ETU++ with Tamiya connectors, if not I guess I just need to buy the Deans to Tamiya adaptor.  

As far as I know, they only come with Deans.

 

You could always buy batteries with Deans or just change the Perun Deans connector to a Tamiya.

[jonesy17]

Ah, gotcha. Was thinking that as I've got 2 Tamiya NiMHs having an adapter might be handy for if I need to switch to them as a backup. 

 

But I'll buy a couple of deans 11.1v LiPOs and the ETU++ 

Fingers crossed that sorts my issue. 

 

Thanks again.