Hpa conversion advice

[axlefoley91]

Hi guys I've never tried hpa before but had a few questions about me converting a rifle to hpa

1. I am looking at converting an aeg non blowback to hpa and was wondering if I could do this and still get some recoil or blowback? 

2. How many rounds do you get from a hpa tank (Broad question I know) mainly the average tanks you carry around on the back rather than a huge diver tank or the tiny ones for example

3. Are they able to be used most of the year in the UK and if so what kind of maintenance is required with this system (things such as greasing, cleaning of parts, replacement seals etc) and how frequent? 

Thanks for the help in advance

[Badgerlicious]

Hi! HPA is great, well worth considering with its ease of use, even with the initial cost. 

1. No. They way HPA engines work that just isn't something that exists. Closest would be HPA converting a GBBR. 

2. Really depends on the system but with a 48ci 3000psi tank, probably 1500 - 2000. There's a very rough estimate formula floating around that's (tank ci) x (tank psi) / (regulator psi)

3. HPA works all year round. 

3b. basically maintaining the o-rings. I'm not sure on the exact time between greasing the o-rings but it's pretty long, months at least. It should be info provided in the user manual for whatever engine you buy. Some people will maintain religiously, others will neglect to do so for a year and their gun still runs. Best part is all you're ever likely to wear out is some o-rings which will be super cheap to replace. 

 

Also metal tanks need to be tested every 5 years, and could go on indefinitely, but it costs as much as a new tank. carbon fiber tanks are good for 15 years but can't be renewed. 

[Tommikka]

Shots will vary depending on efficiency, but in airsoft you should get ‘plenty’ per fill

 

As mentioned, o rings are the main cause or cure to air problems. Look after them as in the manuals and use the same types as the manufacturer when replacing.

The most common is basic black, which just need very light grease and cost Pennie’s when bought in bulk on the common sizes

But as long as you have a basic spares set with your kit then that will do you until you learn your systems particular needs 

 

For air cylinders the best value for money is the standard 48ci aluminium 3000psi cylinder …. Expect to pay £30 to £40

 

A 13ci is more compact, but costs about the same

 

A fibre 4500psi costs more and comes in wide ranges of size and shape. Expect to pay £150

These have the benefit of taking 4500psi fills of available (about 50% more shots … but are not essential if you can get fills on site)

 

 

 

[Tommikka]

Regarding the hydro test lifecycle:

 

The norm that you will mostly see is that aluminum 3000psis have been marked with a 5 year cycle, and unlimited lifetime if they are tested. (due to the cost of testing vs buying new it’s not necessarily worth doing)

But in the UK their legal requirement is a 10 year cycle, and I’ve noticed that retailers are now mentioning this on listings 

 

 

For compact aluminum’s such as 13ci there is an exemption, they do not need to be tested as long as they are visually  good

When 13cis first came to the UK the printed markings have shown a 5 year due date, but a recent purchase does not

 

If you turn up to an event and I’m the air checker then I would permit use of a 48ci 3000 for 10 years after its stamped manufacture date, and a 13ci of any age

(as long as they have UK/EU markings)

 

For fibre wraps the general standard has been a 5 year test cycle and maximum 15 year life, and due to their cost it is worth hydro testing 

There is a newer ISO type which can have an unlimited lifetime, but still a 5 year test cycle - but most seen in life are showing a 15 year maximum printed by the manufacturer