My new-ish Krytac Trident MK2 CRB/PDW sounds like it's smashing it's self to pieces inside

[BreadyC]

Hi Guys,

 

Hoping someone can shed some light on some of the sickening sounds my Krytac makes during cycling. I will pre-face this with when I bought the gun it was alredy second hand in mint condition boxed, it probably had about 2 skirmishes on it when I bought it and the upper had never been seperated from the lower so I know no one's had their hands inside it.

 

However, despire being "the best out of the box AEG" (Which is fucking bollocks and I regret eveything about KRYTAC ownership and wish I'd just bought a CYMA AK) every time I pull the trigger it makes an okay gear sound and then a SLAM as the piston impacts the piston head, it also makes an awful twang at the end of a cycle which I think is the spring resonating on the spring guide.

 

Does anyone else have experience with their Krytac souding like it's days and numbered and one day the piston head is going to just turn it's self to dust against the cylinder head?

 

I am the point now where I am tentatively considering breaking it open to try and quieten it down because it honestly sounds damaging to fire, but as it's propritary as shit and like a $350 gun without decent guidance specific to Krytac it'll likely end up on the wall and being replaced with something that's one, the proper fucking scale (Nothing fits), and two not a house remorgaging oppurtunity to modify.

 

The cost of the Krytac makes it bascially uneconomical to upgrade so it's days in my ownership might be numbered.

Edited May 7, 2022 by BreadyC

[Adolf Hamster]

piston slap is relatively normal depending on the particulars of the piston/cylinder head etc. however it might possibly be a sign of an air leak (lack of resistance- faster piston louder slap), very hard to say without actually hearing it in the flesh although you can test on a chrono.

 

twanging is a common enough problem, one way to solve it is the use of a mosfet with precocking enabled, which has other benefits as well folks have also tried things like using a longer spring (of the same rating, so it's under more preload)

[BreadyC]

2 minutes ago, Adolf Hamster said:

piston slap is relatively normal depending on the particulars of the piston/cylinder head etc. however it might possibly be a sign of an air leak (lack of resistance- faster piston louder slap), very hard to say without actually hearing it in the flesh although you can test on a chrono.

 

twanging is a common enough problem, one way to solve it is the use of a mosfet with precocking enabled, which has other benefits as well folks have also tried things like using a longer spring (of the same rating, so it's under more preload)

 

I have observed the differences with the "piston slap" phenomenon when having an empty vs loaded mag in, as well as when I forgot to add one of the two springs back onto the barrel to push the hop unit into the gearbox.

 

Is there a piggyback mosfet I can use for pre-cocking or are my options to crack it open and use an ASTER V2?

[Adolf Hamster]

Just now, BreadyC said:

I have observed the differences with the "piston slap" phenomenon when having an empty vs loaded mag in, as well as when I forgot to add one of the two springs back onto the barrel to push the hop unit into the gearbox.

 

yes that would absolutely do it.

 

the bb in the barrel is a resistance that will slow the progress of the piston (as it works to push the bb out the barrel) so entirely normal for it to be different when there's nothing obstructing the barrel. it's why i tend not to dry-fire aeg's too much.

 

likewise the spring around the barrel pushing the hop unit back is a definite candidate for causing a big air leak if the hop unit is sitting forward of where it should.

 

2 minutes ago, BreadyC said:

Is there a piggyback mosfet I can use for pre-cocking or are my options to crack it open and use an ASTER V2?

 

of the precocking options out there there's the gate warfet and perun ab++ wire in the same as a conventional mosfet (ie using the original trigger contacts/cutoff lever etc), although both will require some soldering.