Jump to content

POM parts?


skillfulmmd
This thread is over three months old. Please be sure that your post is appropriate as it will revive this otherwise old (and possibly forgotten) topic.

Recommended Posts

I've been thinking about changing a few of the internals of my current gun for performance and noise reduction reasons and have ventured upon the POM parts you can get after looking up which materials and parts do what best. I feel like this would be good for my current build but wasn't sure how it worked and if it is advisable for an AEG.

 

I already have an SHS 13 teeth piston would it be ok to mix POM gear with this or will I need to get a matching POM cylinder if such a thing is sold?

 

Are there any downsides to running POM style parts and will it cause me any issues down the line?

 

Thanks in advance!

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Supporters

POM is a polymer designed for high tolerance manufacturing. Generally speaking in airsoft the only parts produced in POM are piston heads because they're light and can be formed to tight tolerances. They often also have cushioned faces to reduce noise. You're unlikely to find a POM cylinder, but you might get a POM piston.

 

A 13:1 build could very easily chew a polymer piston rack if it's even slightly out of adjustment, but a POM silent head coupled with a sorbothane pad to correct AoE would be a worthwhile investment.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, Lozart said:

POM is a polymer designed for high tolerance manufacturing. Generally speaking in airsoft the only parts produced in POM are piston heads because they're light and can be formed to tight tolerances. They often also have cushioned faces to reduce noise. You're unlikely to find a POM cylinder, but you might get a POM piston.

 

A 13:1 build could very easily chew a polymer piston rack if it's even slightly out of adjustment, but a POM silent head coupled with a sorbothane pad to correct AoE would be a worthwhile investment.

 

I'm trying to balance a build between really good Semi-auto fire rate and getting as quiet as possible, my worry at the moment being that I don't want one of the two to step on the others toes. In terms of moving forward I was looking at either Airsoft-Pro or Laylax POM parts as such:

 

Piston head/Piston head

 

I read that you need to have a matching set of POM parts so if you have a POM Piston head you need a POM Cylinder etc which seems reasonable. I just want to make sure I get the right bits so I don't destroy anything moving forward. 

 

Thanks for your help so far!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Supporters
1 minute ago, skillfulmmd said:

 

 

I read that you need to have a matching set of POM parts so if you have a POM Piston head you need a POM Cylinder etc which seems reasonable.

 

 

 

 

Yeah that's not entirely right. As I said, you won't get a POM cylinder. The "matching parts" bit usually refers to a POM piston head and a matching cylinder head

 

There's two main sources of noise in an AEG - piston head/cylinder head contact and motor/gear noise. The first part is easy - sorbothane pad on the back of your cylinder head and a vented cylinder head (POM is good because it's light but you can also use aluminium ones). This does also give you the opportunity to correct the angle of engagement which will extend the life of your gearbox!

 

In terms of silencing the gears, correct shimming is an absolute must. Straight cut gears will ALWAYS make some noise, helical cut gears can be silent but need VERY precise shimming or they can end up being noisier than the straight cut ones. Motor height adjustment is critical too for minimal noise. Beyond that you're looking at trying to actually soundproof the receiver but that's generally not possible in most guns due to lack of space.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 minutes ago, Lozart said:

 

 

Yeah that's not entirely right. As I said, you won't get a POM cylinder. The "matching parts" bit usually refers to a POM piston head and a matching cylinder head

 

There's two main sources of noise in an AEG - piston head/cylinder head contact and motor/gear noise. The first part is easy - sorbothane pad on the back of your cylinder head and a vented cylinder head (POM is good because it's light but you can also use aluminium ones). This does also give you the opportunity to correct the angle of engagement which will extend the life of your gearbox!

 

In terms of silencing the gears, correct shimming is an absolute must. Straight cut gears will ALWAYS make some noise, helical cut gears can be silent but need VERY precise shimming or they can end up being noisier than the straight cut ones. Motor height adjustment is critical too for minimal noise. Beyond that you're looking at trying to actually soundproof the receiver but that's generally not possible in most guns due to lack of space.

 

Great this has been a massive help I just wanted to make sure I was taking the correct route moving forward!

 

I did read Metal heads can cause cracks in the gearbox shell after long use or at high speeds and this did worry me as I know that going down a route of 11.1v lipos and a high speed motor may do just this.

 

Thanks again!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Supporters
6 minutes ago, skillfulmmd said:

 

 

 

I did read Metal heads can cause cracks in the gearbox shell after long use or at high speeds and this did worry me as I know that going down a route of 11.1v lipos and a high speed motor may do just this.

 

 

 

V2 gearboxes can suffer from cracks in the front of the gearbox regardless of the kind of head you use! It's generally more of an issue for high FPS builds but I'd stay with a POM Vented head like this one: https://airlab.parts/collections/gearbox-parts/products/lonex-piston-head-pom for your build anyway as you'll want light weight first and foremost. To help prevent cracking you can radius the gearbox shell 

 

 

I'd suggest you try the 13:1 gears with a 7.4v LiPo first as you may end up with pre-engagement if you go straight to a high speed motor and an 11.1v LiPo. I would also suggest a mosfet if you haven't already looked at that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

POM piston head or aluminium piston head, the gearbox will crack once it reaches its fatigue limit. Increase this limit enormously by putting a radius in the front corners of the window the cylinder sits in.

Best value and one of the toughest POM piston and piston head combinations is the one from ICS.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, Lozart said:

 

V2 gearboxes can suffer from cracks in the front of the gearbox regardless of the kind of head you use! It's generally more of an issue for high FPS builds but I'd stay with a POM Vented head like this one: https://airlab.parts/collections/gearbox-parts/products/lonex-piston-head-pom for your build anyway as you'll want light weight first and foremost. To help prevent cracking you can radius the gearbox shell 

 

 

I'd suggest you try the 13:1 gears with a 7.4v LiPo first as you may end up with pre-engagement if you go straight to a high speed motor and an 11.1v LiPo.

 

Awesome I will give this watch over lunch.

 

I have been using an 11.1v LiPo since I got my gun and recently whacked an SHS motor in and its been working great with the rest of the stock internals but this is what is getting me to change the internals as I don't want any failure points if this can be avoided!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Supporters
Just now, skillfulmmd said:

 

Awesome I will give this watch over lunch.

 

I have been using an 11.1v LiPo since I got my gun and recently whacked an SHS motor in and its been working great with the rest of the stock internals but this is what is getting me to change the internals as I don't want any failure points if this can be avoided!

 

Don't change too much at once. A mosfet will improve trigger response without sacrificing reliability, radiusing the shell, correcting the AoE and proper shimming will all help with the longevity and silencing. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just now, Lozart said:

 

Don't change too much at once. A mosfet will improve trigger response without sacrificing reliability, radiusing the shell, correcting the AoE and proper shimming will all help with the longevity and silencing. 

 

Yeah I think I may just wait till the stock stuff wears down and replace when needed. The gun already has a Mosfet its nothing amazing like a GATE titan or BTC chimera just a factory done one rifle is a (Ares Amoeba AM 13) but it all seems to be ticking over nicely at the moment. If anything the only change id like to make is getting a programmer to lock it down to semi auto only as i run mid caps and don't like putting a lot of rounds down range at once. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...