New Gearbox Build List

[Katana]

Okay so I'm building a parts list for a new gearbox build so I have a backup to my current one. I'll store it in a seperate complete lower receiver so I can swap them out if one fucks up. Some parts I already have so am just making use of...

 

Parts I already have:

G&P Gearbox

Lonex Bushings

Gate MERF 3.2 Mosfet

ASG UltimateTrigger Unit

SHS Tappet Plate

G&P Spring Guide

And obviously small bits like cut off lever and blabla

 

The rest of it:

SHS 14.5 tooth piston pre-swiss cheesed

SHS 13:1 gears

SHS HT motor

Lonex Cylinder

Lonex Cylinder Head

Lonex Piston Head

Lonex Air Nozzle

Lonex M100 Spring? M90? Will I run into PME

Sorbothane

 

I'm not really going for speed, just rate of fire but I am unsure as to whether I'll run into PME on this setup

I have a dremel handy so here are some mods I was planning on doing:

 

Polishing piston rack

Correcting AOE

Radiusing corners

 

And if it needs it although I'm really trying to stay away from it....

Short-stroking the sector a couple teeth if I need a more powerful spring to avoid PME

 

Is this alright or should I be changing this up? Improvements? 

 

Much appreciated

 

 

 

[Sitting Duck]

My take....

 

G&P Gearbox - yup

Lonex Bushings - yup whatever runs ok, superglue/epoxy them in if poss

Gate MERF 3.2 Mosfet - AB Fet so should help any overspin issues

ASG UltimateTrigger Unit - wtf it is a trigger - whatever works

SHS Tappet Plate - these are nice but can be a tad long on retraction but feed well

G&P Spring Guide - if its a bearing one great

And obviously small bits like cut off lever and blabla - I love blah blah blah

 

The rest of it:

SHS 14.5 tooth piston pre-swiss cheesed - yup blue plastic full metal rack, even non swiss is light

(do not go for plastic 7 + 7 metal tooth rack - plastic is so light it is weak imho)

SHS 13:1 gears - wise choice

SHS HT motor - good goto motor

Lonex Cylinder - yup or shs or decent one with correct port position

Lonex Cylinder Head - yeah ok, as long as it seals well ptfe if needed & nozzle fits/seals well

Lonex Piston Head - if compression is good that is what counts

(drop bearing, often comes undone unless threadlock used - try a 15mm x 5mm circular spacer instead

Lonex Air Nozzle - whatever works if using mostly lonex then carry on

Lonex M100 Spring? M90? Will I run into PME - depends on rps/fps/juice

keep it 7.4v & you should hit about 23rps & be fine

11.1v you will hit 34rps and though stop overspin with AB mosfet you could hit PE on auto imho

Sorbothane - top off with a thin topping of neoprene or it won't last too long

(it isn't very durable to being walloped long term)

 

I'm not really going for speed, just rate of fire but I am unsure as to whether I'll run into PME on this setup

I have a dremel handy so here are some mods I was planning on doing:

 

Polishing piston rack - polish inside box runners for tappet & piston so they glide

nothing major but polishing inside at these points is what fussty sods do

 

Correcting AOE - well yeah sorbothane/neoprene washer topping

 

Radiusing corners - easy round craft file

 

And if it needs it although I'm really trying to stay away from it....

Short-stroking the sector a couple teeth if I need a more powerful spring to avoid PME

 

If you don't need to then don't bother is the answer

you can only SS of you don't have a long mofo barrel & using a higher spring to compensate for fps loss

If it runs ok as it is on 7.4v snappy 23rps then you shouldn't need it

Sounds like a nice build as it is - no need to make work than needed

 

M100 should do it

 

if you have issues then look at other options but if you are happy with a modest build it will all be fine on 7.4v I think

 

In theory keeping it to most decent stuff and matching like lonex compression parts it should all run well with less agroh

It is when you use cheap various brand X china ACM stuff it don't all work correctly as it should and needs paracetamol etc....

should be a nice build imho - take ya time & it will be fine

try to rush it & you will f*ck it as they say

[Katana]

11 minutes ago, Sitting Duck said:

And obviously small bits like cut off lever and blabla - I love blah blah blah

 

 

You had me at "I love blah blah blah" 

 

I run 11.1v mainly so what do I need to do to avoid that PME?

The Gate mosfet does have an RPS limiter so I could just set it to like 60% of what it should be firing on but I rarely use full auto anyway so would it be such a problem? 

[Sitting Duck]

The problem is more juice is more more speed is more issues

AB will only do so much and it won't completely stop the risk - especially if you are really taking the piss

 

The average gun is say 13rps out of box like a CM16 etc....

you do the rewire deans & mosfet and that goes to about 15 on pants std motor on 7.4v

now that goes up by say 20% on SHS HT getting to 18rps on 7.4v

or by 50% I kid you not but stuff runs hot on very fast high speed high amp draw motors = 24rps on 7.4v

 

These figures will very a bit on bushings bearings spring used etc......

 

but now add in higher speed gears over the std 18:1

so now 13:1 not quite 38% but getting 30% increase in rps if motor is ok

so 18rps x 1.3 (30%) on 13:1 gears say = 23rps

then add in another 50%+ on 11.1v  so 23  x  1.5 = 35rps

 

you are in the region of 35 to 45 rps on high speed motors even on a 11.1v 25c battery

use a larger burst and this will go up more

 

to control that speed or response @say 340fps it will struggle to stop quickly imho

So the higher m120/130 spring is needed to return the piston much quicker to avoid the PE

This causes the fps to go up so SS it used - barrel/volume permitting

It also helps to reduce overspin a little as the free running motor is slowed by the "F*ck me that is strong" spring now in there

BUT - this theory crap is never really 101% guranteed to work exactly as it should coz these sodding things are female

Just when you think you got the idea of what it all means or you think you are doing it correctly...

Nope - that is not what she meant when they said something is FINE.....

 

I don't use AB, but if she starts to overspin a bit too much on 7.4v

Then when I thought "ooh let's try 11.1v" for a laugh....

Nearly always meant I was picking out bits of gears or replacing piston shortly afterwards or in the very near future after a burst on full auto....

 

With a bit of SS you can get up to about 25-27rps on 12:1, drawing under 20amps on 7.4v

that is what I now aim for coz I get fed up replacing bits when I plug in 11.1v and get above 30rps

40 rps has not lasted long - and tbh that speed is for nobs who can't hit $hit

actually I can't hit $hit but I'm only a part trainee nob - but it isn't really worth the agro imho

 

I can't tell you the exact speed but I know if you start going too near 30 or well over it will run a risk of PE if you go nutz on auto and like I said I'm getting fed up breaking guns that were ok but I took the piss (again)

 

 

[Sitting Duck]

Wow that was a lot of crap....

 

basically - high speed gears or 11.1v

but not both if using a faster than stock neodym motor

 

doing all 3 at once is asking for trouble imho

 

7.4v lipo's are cheaper & thinner in general

 

faster gears - cost/shimming/fitting possible SS

 

Motor replacement - more expensive

imho - fast motor for stock gears, balanced speed/torque like shs ht for 13:1

 

mix all 3 at your own risk

[Katana]

Yeah I would rather not go for the whole SS thing if I don't need to so looks like an M100 with 13:1 gears on a 7.4v should be all fine and dandy

 

Cheers for the help and I'll tell you how it goes haha