Problems with my M16 VN AEG

[ronin677]

Hi all,

 

I have had this AEG for a few years and need to figure out how to dismantle it. I thought it would be the same as a G&G M4 but I can't seem to remove the front trigger mechanism housing pin. I tried and all I succeeded in doing was cracking my lower receiver (its all metal btw). The rear pin does knock out but takes a lot of effort.

 

I desperately need to clean/lube this rifle and also to try and effect a repair on those cracks but I need to firstly identify the make and model of the rifle and then also figure out how to take it apart.

 

I figured I'd ask the wealth of knowledge on here as you guys seem to have a lot of experience.

 

any help would be warmly accepted

 

thanks

 

Jon

[Unrustle_Thine_Jimmies]

Most M16 VNs are assembled in the style of old TM guns. Here is a video on taking down the M733 which is fairly similar to the M16 design wise.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4avuzdCllGM

 

If it is not like that,have you tried removing just the rear pin and swinging the upper receiver by sing the front pin as a pivot? I doubt it's like that since it might be old TM style construction but G&P may have updated the design- I have not worked on G&P M4s yet so I'm not 100% sure.

 

Your gun looks like a G&P m16 to me,judging from the trades. If you get to the gearbox it should be obvious of the brand.

 

To repair cracks on airsoft metal bodies,which 90% are made out of Zamak-4 can be done like so:

 

 

This method has been done largely by restorers of vintage stuff and even by some people with airsoft guns though results have not been documented. It's a basic mechanical weld that should hold up in the area that cracked,but if it does not work you can source a new body from Hong Kong for a reasonable price,depending on the brand.

[ronin677]

Hi

 

Yes I tried to pivot the upper and lower using the front pin as a pivot point. The two didn't seem to want to come apart.

 

I had another look at the front pin last night and I can't get it to budge, it won't even twist.

 

If I can get upper and lower apart I might try a repair on the inside using liquid metal. That point doesn't take any loading so I think it should be fine.

 

I might approach G&P and see if they recognise the rifle

[ronin677]

I have just checked out the G&P website and I'm 99% positive that my rifle is a G&P M16VN.

 

Now I just need to know how to take it apart. I've contacted G&P and asked for advise. Hopefully they'll reply

[straffham]

I have a G&P bodied CAR 15 and its only the front pin which holds the upper receiver in place, so I would think yours would be the same? The receiver pins are a VERY tight push fit when new and yes things will break if you're not careful. Spray a little WD 40 onto the ends and centre of the pin so it penetrates into the pin housing and leave for a few minutes. You then need to ensure the area around the receiver pin is supported on something solid when knocking the pins through, eg on a workmate work bench, and knock the pin through one of the holes in the workmate gently, using a small hammer and a wooden dowel ideally as this prevents some of the shock being transmitted which causes the cracking. Once the front pin is out the upper receiver should pull straight off the lower,may need to pull the charging handle back a little though to release it. Use same method of supporting the receiver when refitting the pin.

[ronin677]

Thanks Straffham,

 

I supported the body and after quite a bit of hammering the front pin finally released. Jeez that sucker really was in there tight.

[TacMaster]

Thanks Straffham,

 

I supported the body and after quite a bit of hammering the front pin finally released. Jeez that sucker really was in there tight.

 

I have the same problem with tight body pins on my M4- I can't even remove the front sight because of it!

[ronin677]

 

I have the same problem with tight body pins on my M4- I can't even remove the front sight because of it!

Got to admit I just bored out the holes by hand with a drill bit (just enough to remove the paint layer). I also filled down the ridges on the pin with a fine file. The pin goes in and out a lot easier now but is solid enough not to drop out.

 

I am now contemplating fixing the lower receiver on the inside with liquid metal. It will be tricky as I need to grind an angle to fill with the gloop. might just leave it though

[straffham]

Thanks Straffham,

 

I supported the body and after quite a bit of hammering the front pin finally released. Jeez that sucker really was in there tight.

Nice one, glad you sorted it! If it does end up too loose you could always replace the pin with a locking one! Be interested to know how you get on with repairing the crack.

[Unrustle_Thine_Jimmies]

Zinc is an absolute bitch of a metal to repair and work with. The best method for repair is the one I posted by using flux and that super alloy 1 stuff they advertise,I'd go to some sort of welding or metalwork shop,maybe even a place specializing in restoring old stuff and ask about repairing zinc.

[ronin677]

Nice one, glad you sorted it! If it does end up too loose you could always replace the pin with a locking one! Be interested to know how you get on with repairing the crack.

I'll let you all know if I attempt it

[ronin677]

my M16 is now all lubed up are firing well again