Ahhhhhhhh Thanks for pointing that out, I nearly forgot about that little piece, it was a tiny black spring that was almost invisible against my mousepad, found it! Still not worked out exactly how it goes back together but yes, I've tried to get that bastard little trigger spring back in place but it's being a real pain in the arse.
you have my sympathies, sadly there's no real advice on how to do it you just sorta get a feel for it.
some boxes are well enough behaved that once you get the trigger seated properly it'll stay put, others less so. i had a jg box that i ended up tapping a tiny bolt into the trigger to keep it held in place, although that comes with its own issues of weakening the trigger which can break.
The trigger seems to re-set to its starting position just from the tension from a spring just under the trigger assembly, or maybe the tappet spring though, so i'm not really sure what the tiny silver one is really doing..
in semi-auto the trolley is kicked up and over the trigger by the cut off lever to disconnect it, so the trigger needs its own return spring.
Not sure it's going to work when i've done it, but I think i'm going to head to a local airsoft shop next week to see if I can get a spring with a lower FPS so that my gun is legal for a game I have next Sunday.
if you're thinking of going down the route of doing your own tech work, then a wise investment would be to get a chrono so you can check the gun before taking it to a game day.
you can not only check the energy is kosher but also use it to spot consistency issues that'd lead it to shooting like shit without needing to test fire outdoors (which may or may not be a viable depending on your home situation)
I was also thinking about upgrading the piston to a steel one? I can't believe these guns come with something that has plastic gears!
there are reasons to have a piston that's primarily or entirely plastic, it's the same reason you'll see a lot of rc cars have a plastic gear in their drivetrains. it's an intentional weak point as a sacrificial part. idea being if something goes wrong then mincing a cheap plastic piston is preferable to mincing the whole geartrain.
that said, steel racked pistons are very common aftermarket tweaks, although tbh it's just as viable for the rack to get ripped right out of the piston.
I've orderd an M100 Spring to hopefully bring my AEG in line with the site limits, I don't know what it came with stock but the box say s 1.4 joules and 377 FPS*, so going to assume it wouldn't have been site legal.
I was going to go for a 105 but didn't want to risk bringing it even slightly over after all i've been through with this thing exploding on me when I opened it up.
fingers crossed, although don't be surprised if the energy isn't what you're expecting. springs being a bit off from their rated power is not uncommon as is straight up mis-labelling.
after a while you build up a box o' springs so you just try different ones until you get the energy you want, or settle on a brand/rating that works for your build style.
When the spring is sat under compression on the spring guide, there is a slight bend in the middle of the spring (just the way it collapses, i haven't damaged it) is this normal? I can't seem to get it exactly straight while it is sat in the piston.
as
@Colin Allen says, the spring guide might be sitting wonky until its tightened into the casing. a test is you can use a flat-ended tool through the nozzle to push the piston back and feel how freely its moving and if the spring is binding. it's somewhat normal to have a little bend under tension and as long as the spring isn't bent permanently (ie when you remove it and it's not under tension it straightens out) then you're fine.
Yes there was, I didn't realise thats what it was for - i'd seen you could adjust spring power with it
that's the g&g version, which was the og pattern of f2000 that cybergun licensed that used a version 6 gearbox.
it wasn't a very good feature, sounds great on paper but the reality is you'd get eyebrows raised at every site that heard the power could be adjusted thinking you'd be using it to cheat chrono when the reality was that it would more often than not come undone mid-game and the power would drop as you fired it. although granted it did make working on the gearbox a hell of a lot easier.
couple that with the horrendous rube-golberg trigger mechanism that you could never get to fire semi properly and have fun replacing that shit when it broke and the cutoff lever was its own special kind of engineering failure. imo cyma and jg made the right move dropping a standard v3 box in there.
externals were nice, although i've not spent any time hands on with the cyma/jg to say if there's much real difference.
