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THE TM MWS thread

I found it didn't hop heavy enough BBs in my mk12 build, so I've moved over to Jaeger Precision Titan nub and a Flamingo hop rubber. That combination seems to work really well for me and outperforms the sixG + stock bucking setup at least in my MWSs.

 
Back again after a detour with a GBLS and an AEG. It seems like all my builds return to the wishes of the MWS-system and its modularity.

I also learnt something on my detour. A good replica doesn't equal a fun experience.
 

Anyhow, my plan is now to build a DMR from a used / vintage MTR. I think it would be fun to build a 16 or 18 inch MWS DMR as those are really uncommon.  I just wonder if someone could guide me to some inner barrel ideas and navigate what might be problems for the build. 

My limit is 1.7 joule with a 0.3 g while in Netherlands and 2 joule in Sweden (Berget). I see that a lot of people have gone with a 370 mm barrel for those limits. But I just wonder if one could go even longer? 400 - 450 mm without problems? Such a long barrel would fill the whole outer and make it easier to stabilize. It would probably lead to an outrageous muzzle velocity as well, which I hope could be tamed by a NPAS. However, am I right, when I say that it could also be more efficient? I imagine the gas getting more time to expand in a longer barrel thus using less gas. Correct me if I am wrong.

Also, which one is the go to 45 degree selector atm? 

Thanks in advance for the insight!

 
Hypokondrikern said:
Anyhow, my plan is now to build a DMR from a used / vintage MTR. I think it would be fun to build a 16 or 18 inch MWS DMR as those are really uncommon.  I just wonder if someone could guide me to some inner barrel ideas and navigate what might be problems for the build. 

My limit is 1.7 joule with a 0.3 g while in Netherlands and 2 joule in Sweden (Berget). I see that a lot of people have gone with a 370 mm barrel for those limits. But I just wonder if one could go even longer? 400 - 450 mm without problems? Such a long barrel would fill the whole outer and make it easier to stabilize. It would probably lead to an outrageous muzzle velocity as well, which I hope could be tamed by a NPAS. However, am I right, when I say that it could also be more efficient? I imagine the gas getting more time to expand in a longer barrel thus using less gas. Correct me if I am wrong.
Click to expand...


I'm in the UK and I have a DMR MWS built as a mk12 mod1 with the suppressor and everything (the Modelworks kit) and it's incredibly fun. Some people will argue that GBBRs don't make good DMR platforms because they're less consistent than AEG or HPA platforms and they're correct about that, however in realistic gameplay terms I don't see much difference in performance between my MWS DMR and my MTW DMR, outside of the depths of winter where the MWS struggles a bit. However, what you gain by doing a GBBR DMR is a hell of a lot of fun. Every time you squeeze the trigger it feels very satisfying!

In mine I use a 510mm inner barrel because that's what reaches all the way through the outer barrel and comes out pretty much perfectly so it doesn't poke into the flash hider, but it comes right up to it. At the moment it's a Crazy Jet, but I'm going to swap it out for a Stalker barrel in the new year after I put one in my mk23 and it was amazing. You will need an NPAS to get the power where you want it. I have mine at about 1.8J (local limit is 1.88J) and it's lovely. The longer the barrel, the more it will joule creep, so while it does help you get to the power you need, you will need an NPAS to tame that power. I'm not sure it makes it any more efficient, because I think it basically just controls how much gas goes through the barrel to propel the BB and how much goes into the recoil, but I could be wrong about that.

And for fire selectors, I just use the standard one, but modified. It's very easy to get it out and modify for semi-auto only, as you just need to dremel some of the material off. It's still a 3 stage selector, but instead of safe-semi-auto, mine is safe-semi-semi with the modification.

Only picture I have at the moment, but it's got a nicer scope now, has a DBAL-A2 on the side and uses the short mags and a full m16 style stock that I'm going to swap out for a Magpul PRS stock in the new year when I also get the new inner barrel for it, as I won't be using it through the winter.

View attachment 115348

 
@Impulsethanks for the all info and insight! I have also been looking at the Stalker barrels. Happy to hear that they are of the advertised quality. Do you know if the flamingo rubber will work with said barrel and what NPAS do you use? 
 

btw. Good looking replica! 

 
Hypokondrikern said:
@Impulsethanks for the all info and insight! I have also been looking at the Stalker barrels. Happy to hear that they are of the advertised quality. Do you know if the flamingo rubber will work with said barrel and what NPAS do you use? 
 

btw. Good looking replica! 
Click to expand...


Thanks. I have 3, but my DMR is my favourite one.

And yes, the flamingo bucking does work with the Stalker barrels, as that is the combination I have in my pistols and will be sticking in my MWSs and m700s once I get around to it (not a high priority during winter). In terms of hop up configuration that I have in mine, I have the 60d Flamingo rubber in the DMR and the 50d Flamingo in the non-DMRs, all with a Jaeger Precision titan nub and it works very well and hops heavy BBs just fine. The NPAS I have at the moment is the RA-Tech one, but I want to swap over to the Jaeger Precision one at some point as the RA-Tech ones are fiddly to adjust, though it does work just fine. I don't have Stalker barrels in mine yet, but will be getting those in the new year as the combination has been really good in my pistols and I've really gone off Crazy Jet barrels.

 
Hey all,

i recently purchased a tm mk18 second hand with some upgrades like the 4uad bucking. 
 

Now i noticed that the bucking is a little bit damages and i would like to replace it. Only issue i have is the barrel nut.

does anyone know where i can get the tool for the barrel nut? I live in the nether

ands. 
 

thanks in advance!

 
Don’t buy the mk18 if you plan to change the handguard. Buy the 14,5" or cqbr version. There are lot of threads on internet about the removal of the mk18 barrel nut and it’s very, very hard to remove it.

 
I got my MWS yesterday and filled it fine, got just over two mags out of the fill. Today using a different green gas (We 2x) and the gas spurts out of the fill valve instantly and I’m getting about 5 - 8 shots before the mag is empty. It’s being tested inside, same conditions as yesterday (But different gas). I’m assuming it’s the WE gas, so wondering what green gas everybody uses? ?

 
Ultrair, standard brown stuff.  WE gas I have found does the same on all my guns, think its the nozzle on the can

 
EvilMonkee said:
Ultrair, standard brown stuff.  WE gas I have found does the same on all my guns, think its the nozzle on the can
Click to expand...
Cheers. I’ll give that a go! I tried a can of the nuprol (metal nozzle) and it seemed to gas fine too but only one mags worth before it was empty.

 
JinxDuh said:
I got my MWS yesterday and filled it fine, got just over two mags out of the fill. Today using a different green gas (We 2x) and the gas spurts out of the fill valve instantly and I’m getting about 5 - 8 shots before the mag is empty. It’s being tested inside, same conditions as yesterday (But different gas). I’m assuming it’s the WE gas, so wondering what green gas everybody uses? ?
Click to expand...


I'm using propane now, but if I was going to buy cans of green gas I'd go with the ASG ultrair (the brown cans).

 
I wasted so much money to find the problem on my complete aftermarket MWS build. I finally replaced my G&P EMG steel trigger box by the GM (Guns Modify) steel trigger box and here am I, it works so well now.

On the G&P trigger box I used different lubricants, oil, ptfe, grease, different nozzle, different bolt carrier, different hammer springs with all the settings possible (100% to 180%), different fire selectors but nothing to do, same issues. The bolt carrier cycle look like weak (?!) as if the mag valve was not completely hit. Like the hammer didn't have enough power to hit it and also, with the fire selector at "semi" position, 75% of the time the mws was shooting on full.

After comparing the three trigger boxes (TM, GM and G&P) taking them apart to inspect everything, to check, to compare again, I still can't understand where the problem is coming from.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Good morning :)  

A skim read says the general consensus is to avoid the Cyma CGS gas magazines ( Stanag type if it matters) in a stock TM MWS ? 
 

yay or nay ? 

 
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