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THE TM MWS thread

It can only be a duff bucking or the hop arm is duff/skewing under pressure.

 
Did you try to turn lightly the inner barrel clockwise? There is a little play wich can create this trouble.

 
Using the good tools and with patience you can open the window of the crazy jet inner barrel.

 
I think I found out that this barrel crazy jet maple leaf is not good with maple leaf 60° mr.hop , just because the window cut is smaller that the rubber's nub , so that's is causing that misalignment.  

So I was bad  advised about that 2 parts togheter 

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oh no,

I was looking to buy a PDI barrel and use MR bucking, I assume it be the same issue looking at the PDI cut?

View attachment 132895

 
I just a ttesed using my sons maple leaf hi-capa barrel and MR bucking can't freely move like mercon one :(

I don't really have many options for 7 inch barrels so I guesss I would have to use a differnt bucking that is compatible.

Cheers.

 
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Hello everyone, I have a curious topic for whoever might be interested to help me, here is a bit of context:

Quick and simple, my laylax hop arm was getting stuck, I could increase hop, but it wouldn't decrease, the arm would be stuck in whatever highest position it was left.

Here is the kicker, I disassembled everything, and put back the barrel, tested the movement everything looked good, as soon as I thighed the barrel nut, the hop arm would get stuck again; well I though maybe is the laylax hop arm, so I tried the Wii arm, same problem...

Well turns out that it is the barrel? I have a z parts steel outer barrel, I switched it with the original barrel and everything is working good, but the zparts barrel seems to be locking my hop arms as soon as I tighten the barrel nut ?
 

Further note:

Also, the hop arm still moves, it just doesn't drop freely, you have to manually push it down & up.

It also doesn't appear to be applying force against the sides of the receiver (which might have been preventing it from moving down), I put some cardboard on the sides (of the hop arm) while tighting and then removed the cardboard and the problem still persists.

I also don't think I am over tighing the barrel nut since I am doing it by hand, and I am just applying enough force to be sure that the barrel is not going to move or fall. I have noticed that if I slowly thigh the barrel nut, the capacity for the hop arm to move down by itself is reduced bit by bit.

The hop up adjuster is also not influencing since I removed it for testing.

Any ideias on why this might be happening? Is there a fix?

 
Measure stuff, with a vernier, compare to the original TM parts, correct/match the aftermarket parts.

 
Hello everyone, I have a curious topic for whoever might be interested to help me, here is a bit of context:

Quick and simple, my laylax hop arm was getting stuck, I could increase hop, but it wouldn't decrease, the arm would be stuck in whatever highest position it was left.

Here is the kicker, I disassembled everything, and put back the barrel, tested the movement everything looked good, as soon as I thighed the barrel nut, the hop arm would get stuck again; well I though maybe is the laylax hop arm, so I tried the Wii arm, same problem...

Well turns out that it is the barrel? I have a z parts steel outer barrel, I switched it with the original barrel and everything is working good, but the zparts barrel seems to be locking my hop arms as soon as I tighten the barrel nut ?
 

Further note:

Also, the hop arm still moves, it just doesn't drop freely, you have to manually push it down & up.

It also doesn't appear to be applying force against the sides of the receiver (which might have been preventing it from moving down), I put some cardboard on the sides (of the hop arm) while tighting and then removed the cardboard and the problem still persists.

I also don't think I am over tighing the barrel nut since I am doing it by hand, and I am just applying enough force to be sure that the barrel is not going to move or fall. I have noticed that if I slowly thigh the barrel nut, the capacity for the hop arm to move down by itself is reduced bit by bit.

The hop up adjuster is also not influencing since I removed it for testing.

Any ideias on why this might be happening? Is there a fix?
I have had the same issue with a stock set up and Laylax arm. Using card board as a temporary shim to keep it central during barrel nut tightening is a great idea.
 

Mine was resolved by twisting the barrel a fraction off centre then tightening up the barrel nut. You don’t need to crank down on it, just use some Blue Loctite ?

My set up also had some side-to-side play on the arm but a 0.1mm AEG gear box shim either side eliminated that and still let it adjust smoothly. One less factor to influence trajectory.

 
Having fielded my MWS at the great RIFT Airsoft REDCON-2 site at the weekend I found that the old TM hop rubber was on its way out and my GunsModify nozzle damaged (probably from a shattered tracer BB earlier in the year) and this led to a couple of gas dumps at in opportune moments ? I also noticed some drift to the left beyond 40m. By 60m it was missing the torso sized target without some serious aiming off!

I fitted a Maple Leaf bucking which gave a better air seal so dropped in the spare AG v2 nozzle and NPAS to offset the now very spicy FPS. I have some more GM and G&P nozzles if needed but the RATech NPAS are such a pain to adjust and not that consistent. Once cooler weather is here I’ll go back to the GM fixed set up.

To keep the hop perfectly vertical I added a 0.1mm AEG shim to the outside left of the hop unit, between it and the outer barrel / brass collar. This stopped it rotating a fraction when snugging the barrel nut up. Now I just need to get to a range with 60m+ but it certainly looks perfectly level.

Tested all my mags and FPS was 278 - 292 over the 7 mags, with each mag within +/-2fps on 3 shot of 0.28g Warhead BBs

Mag #5 was the spiciest so marked that one and will chrono using it ?

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I'm in Japan now so the time has come to join the MWS club. Mostly real gear apart from the charging handle and the can.

I have built a lot of firearms but am still a bit of a noob when it comes to airsoft and so, upon seeing this wonderful thread, I binge-read a good seventy five percent of the posts while in anticipation for getting my first proper GBB rifle.

Because of this, I feel like I am very well prepared to put this beast together and would like to give a big thanks to Wo1f and all the regular contributors here for all of your knowledge and advice and, by way of reciprocity, should anyone wish to know what's going on in the scene in Japan or have questions about parts and procurement etc. then please send a message. When I am off base and not lumping things around in the heat I will do my best to answer promptly.

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So here it is, still in need of cable management and the grip needs to be installed but feeling good none the less.

I aim to make this one a DMR, in as much as one can do in airsoft, and so will be doing my best to source the parts that you guys have recommended. I'll shoot it a bit first for fun and then start the upgrades as soon as possible. Next step will be paint followed by some killflashes and a fair amount of tape for the shiny bits.

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Howdy folks :)

I've bought the HPA adapter for the MWS, what uprades would you guys recomend for the platform or should it be fine as is for the most part? I only really do CQB so I don't need it to shoot the other side of the a forest. 

 
Having fielded my MWS at the great RIFT Airsoft REDCON-2 site at the weekend I found that the old TM hop rubber was on its way out and my GunsModify nozzle damaged (probably from a shattered tracer BB earlier in the year) and this led to a couple of gas dumps at in opportune moments ? I also noticed some drift to the left beyond 40m. By 60m it was missing the torso sized target without some serious aiming off!

I fitted a Maple Leaf bucking which gave a better air seal so dropped in the spare AG v2 nozzle and NPAS to offset the now very spicy FPS. I have some more GM and G&P nozzles if needed but the RATech NPAS are such a pain to adjust and not that consistent. Once cooler weather is here I’ll go back to the GM fixed set up.

To keep the hop perfectly vertical I added a 0.1mm AEG shim to the outside left of the hop unit, between it and the outer barrel / brass collar. This stopped it rotating a fraction when snugging the barrel nut up. Now I just need to get to a range with 60m+ but it certainly looks perfectly level.

Tested all my mags and FPS was 278 - 292 over the 7 mags, with each mag within +/-2fps on 3 shot of 0.28g Warhead BBs

Mag #5 was the spiciest so marked that one and will chrono using it ?

View attachment 133855
Brings back memories when I foolishly used Nuprol bbs in my MWS and they shattered and royally screwed up the MWS! I should have sent Nuprol a bill for repairs ! That reminds me I need to check the rubber as I’ve not used the MWS for over 13 months. I know I know.  Bad bad MWS owner ??

Howdy folks :)

I've bought the HPA adapter for the MWS, what uprades would you guys recomend for the platform or should it be fine as is for the most part? I only really do CQB so I don't need it to shoot the other side of the a forest. 
HPA’ing a MWS? Good lord man! Wash you mouth out with soap young man! Failing that a swig or two of whiskey! 

 
With some modification (cut a flat, file round circumference) the AngryGun NPAS can fit the much better quality GM or TM nozzles.

FPS consistency was much better than the RATech or G&P NPAS, looking +/-2 fps with 0.32g BBs and ASG gas.

Shame you can’t buy them with out the nozzle (although the v2 ones seem better quality plastic)

 
Hello everyone,

I had my first game here in UK the other day with my noveske mws. Sadly limit was 300fps on the site and because of my first 3 shots was 307-305-302 and rest below 300 but still they didn't let me play with my rifle.

Has anyone experienced such a thing any advice on that how can I control my first couple of shots fps?

 
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Yeah, take it to the range and fire off a load of bb's before you crono, my guns rarely get used so the springs are pretty tight for at least a hicap mag worth, for GBBR's you can fit an Npas so you can adjust the gas flowing forward or back.

 
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