The AAP-01 Owners Thread.

Skara said:
It's still weak, maybe not as weak as the original black one, but not ideal for prolonged use.

I've already seen a few shanked ones at my local retailer (the owners probably abused full auto from the get go)
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I'm pretty frugal anyway but the price increase on BB's lately I won't be going full auto.

 
Need some advice.

I recently did some upgrades to my aap-01 and ran into 2 big issues. One issues being i get random burst of full auto when it's in semi. The second issue being the bolt gets jammed and once i free it it fires on its own. The only thing i noticed is that i think the trigger only engages when there is either a mag in or when pressure is applied to the upper.

These issues only seem to appear with hpa. Would appreciate some help.

Part list:

-Ctm lightweight bolt

-Stock nozzle set and piston head

-140% recoil spring no short stroke but would like to add it back

-200% nozzle spring 

-stock fire selector and plate

-cowcow steel hammer set

-cowcow steel auto sear

-cowcow fire lock pin

-stock trigger 

-AA cnc hop unit

-60° maple autobot

-stalker panthera nub

-AA 6.03 inner barrel 

-stock upper receiver

Hpa stuff:

-Primary airsoft adapter

-valken tank

-balystik reg

 
good day to all, new to this thread and interested in trying something a bit different. Does anyone know if an AAP-01 can be printed on a 3d printer (the upper and the grip) and then the internals can be bought separately and placed inside, just wondering where i woud be able to get the full internals purchased to put inside the printed frame. i hope you all understand what it is im trying to accomplish.

 
diamondtip said:
good day to all, new to this thread and interested in trying something a bit different. Does anyone know if an AAP-01 can be printed on a 3d printer (the upper and the grip) and then the internals can be bought separately and placed inside, just wondering where i woud be able to get the full internals purchased to put inside the printed frame. i hope you all understand what it is im trying to accomplish.
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Might work out cheaper to just try and find a 2nd hand AAP. Then you can use the internals and measure up the body for printing.

 
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leadly said:
Might work out cheaper to just try and find a 2nd hand AAP. Then you can use the internals and measure up the body for printing.
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well actually the reason i ask is becaause importing an airsoft gun is illegal where im from, there are the loopholes for the rich and famous but the average joe cannot import one so that is the main cause for this experiment.

 
diamondtip said:
good day to all, new to this thread and interested in trying something a bit different. Does anyone know if an AAP-01 can be printed on a 3d printer (the upper and the grip) and then the internals can be bought separately and placed inside, just wondering where i woud be able to get the full internals purchased to put inside the printed frame. i hope you all understand what it is im trying to accomplish.
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Airsoftworld sell a lot of the internals separeately. Even the upper and lowers.

 
Cowcow hammer arrived today from Ebog along with a stainless knocker lock as well (learning from @leadly 's experience). Got a hi capa nozzle valve spring ready to go in, PDI inner barrel, H plate, autobot 60 also sat waiting and CTM 200% recoil and nozzle springs on the way.

I plan to get a lightweight BBU as well at some point but these will do for now.

Only question really is do I go shotgun shell hpa or m4 mag?

 
Steveocee said:
Cowcow hammer arrived today from Ebog along with a stainless knocker lock as well (learning from @leadly 's experience). Got a hi capa nozzle valve spring ready to go in, PDI inner barrel, H plate, autobot 60 also sat waiting and CTM 200% recoil and nozzle springs on the way.

I plan to get a lightweight BBU as well at some point but these will do for now.

Only question really is do I go shotgun shell hpa or m4 mag?
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I'd go shotgun shell because it's less cumbersome but you don't get as many rounds as with an M4 mag.

 
Skara said:
I'd go shotgun shell because it's less cumbersome but you don't get as many rounds as with an M4 mag.
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I bought it with the intention of going shotgun shell but then the thought of M4 crossed my mind being as I bought a set of EPM1S's just to use with my capa so almost makes sense, plus then there's the extra firepower of 170rnd per mag.

Whatever happens, once I've done the internal mods, I'm buying one of them.

 
Upgrades have started. I went with a 5KU BBU as they're less than half the price of the Cow2 ones and generally in hi capa land the 5KU stuff is pretty decent with good tolerances. Can only echo the same thing. BBU area upgrades are completed. Got barrel/hop upgrades to do and then hammer/knocker before we stick a HPA adaptor up it. Here it is with a 5KU BBU and 5KU magwell.

View attachment 99922

 
Looking good Steve!!

I'll be slapping a longer inner barrel in mine and trying it as a DMR. Couldn't quite justify a full KC02 build, so this will hopefully scratch that itch. The General kindly gifted me a 200 and 220mm barrel to try in it!!

 
I've done 2 build/rebuilds in the last week aimed at using at KZ. IMO you don't need a DMR as such for that site, a well set up <350 would be just as amazing.

AAP with a Loki and decent carbing setup would clean up if you can get it reaching out.

I'll be running the Mk23 there soon as primary.

AAP though I'm going to wait until HPA ready and then take it to the Growhouse.

 
Morning all.

So I've recently picked up the CTM ultra light bolt that comes with the CTM 200% recoil spring.

I was having an issue that with the supplied spring the bolt was cycling so fast that in semi I was experiencing burst fire.

Changing the spring to the original AAP spring solved this issue. 

Just curious if any one else has experienced this?

 
So I'm back in the AAP club after selling my Black Mamba build some time ago. Before I'd fired a shot, I installed a CTM FUKU-2 (great name, huh) trigger, which I really like the look and feel of. However I probably spent more time trying to get the perfect position on the overtravel grub screw, than it took me to actually get the trigger in there. I'm still not happy with the grub screw, especially as it's wobbly and I don't really want to screw glue it. Can someone explain "overtravel" to me and if I really need to use the grub screw?

I also don't know whether to keep the upper stock, go for another Black Mamba or a CTM two piece job (although IMO they're overpriced) ?

As much as I love the look of the Black Mamba, it did seem to negatively affect cooldown, quite significantly.

 
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Cr0-Magnon said:
. Can someone explain "overtravel" to me and if I really need to use the grub screw?
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Just means how much further you can pull the trigger once it has got past the break point. If you want to have a super short trigger pull with a hard stop then you can use the grub screw to do that, if you leave the grub screw out then it just means you have more travel left in the trigger once you have tripped the hammer before there is a physical stop to the trigger movement. This doesn't affect the take up in the trigger before the break point so doesn't impact the trigger response on a single shot. Only if you are spamming in semi auto it may decrease the reset time between shots but it is pretty much just a personal preference thing.

 
I did actually feel like the gun was very snappy on semi-auto with it in....hmm, will have a think. Cheers!

 
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