You'd better believe I filed those lugs off before putting it back in, and even at that, it took a little struggle.
As it turned out, the gearbox was shimmed pretty damn well as stock, so it was a fairly pointless exercise. For form's sake, I added 0.1mm to the motor gear to take out a bit of slack, but the other gears were already spot on. Other than replacing the Chinagrease and doing a tentative radiusing, there wasn't much to do in there.
File the lugs off - even a little inside at a 45 degree angle on the two lugs....
The slight fiddle is fairly normal, but you kinda get the hang of a wiggley knack of most AEG stuff
Yup shimming isn't bad on the box - I could have told you that before hand
(think the bevel is shimmed about 0.25mm - underneath really doesn't matter as pinion keeps it from dropping)
The slight shrilly sound is more down to the china gears & pinion on the lame ar$e stock motor
Both the Cyma & the std Grey G&G 18k motor are 27/28 tpa which means it sucks speed wise
The Cyma china gears don't really run that smoothly tbh
even if you clean up the gears of green gunk, bit of silicon oil on axles and spin the gears etc...
They don't really run buttery smooth like other gears like SHS or even one or two other stock sets
They are very chunky so will not strip a tooth easily - but could be a tad smoother but hey ho cheapy china gears
The motor is crap - it has a D-pinion, the armature tpa @ 27/28 is too high
Yes could be used for a frankentorque motor but most admit these FT motors are not really the be all & end all
(Even on most 330fps DSG's or even DMR's a max 22tpa torque neodym motor will be plenty)
So really the 27/28 tpa stock motor is perhaps a worthy upgrade at some point
OR
Run the thing on more juice to get more response perhaps but long term contacts can wear quicker
(worth noting cyma trigger switch is slightly slightly different - the mount hole is bigger than SHS)
It is a decent gearbox/gun for the money, the higher speed gears need the gearbox modding to fit
Not Cyma's fault - numerous re-enforced boxes won't let you fit 12 or 13:1 gears straight in
The tappet plate has slight cut-outs, but so does the Lonex too & people rate (maybe slightly over-rate those)
The safety needs the screw removed prior to opening, the V2 gearbox has a V3 spring guide
Qwirky - but works and quite robust
The pistol grip - fits well, it doesn't need any modding like some long grips need filing down etc...
the motor plate could be better, the motor plate is a small disc type with allen key - normal cheapo plate
Could be fitted with M3 bolts instead of self tapping screws but c'mon it is a £70 gun ffs !!!!
The wiring is quite decent tbh, but so far I've ripped out the std wiring when I fitted mosfets
Though std wiring is fine if you fit a mosfet using existing loom
If you fit deans over small tamiya connectors that is the easiest/cheapest upgrade to do or worth doing first
(you can even re-use the deans if you rewire at a later date - but std wiring is decent)
Like most budget guns, the piston, cylinder head, nozzle & AoE could be improved
Piston head is ok - no really it is but has a chunky heavy metal mount inside the piston and a screw
(o-ring seal is a little bit crap like many stock guns)
Piston is ok - could upgrade at some point but tbh you could wait until it strips
Cylinder head - ok but AoE could be corrected as per usual, f*cking loose fitting though - few wraps of ptfe wrap
(but is loose in stock cylinder)
nozzle is a clear non o-ring type as per usual, SHS red M4 nozzle is quite loose fit on clear cyma tappet plate
So might need to upgrade/change tappet with a mod cut out with a SHS nozzle or look for another nozzle make
If/When correcting AoE then v3 bearing spring guide will replace slight drop in fps from slight shortening of stroke
This is all the normal basic tweaky crap in nearly all AEG's - not a big major must do now thing at all
Wait until fps drops or things go pear shape, then open her up and fix/improve stuff as needed
I say this as very often - in fact nearly always there is more attention required than just slapping in stuff
Slightly qwirky box but nothing major at all
The box is tiny bit shrilly but most of this is down to cheap motor/pinion and cheapo mass produced stock gears
chunky but they are not smooth running SHS gears - let alone siegetek gears
Spur can be a bit tight if you upgrade - little slack, so might need to replace bushing with 8mm bearing on TOP
This will give you a wafer more slack, might need a thin shim under spur and next to nothing on top of spur
(watch for spur rubbing on other two bushings as it needs to get shimmed lower)
This lack of room on spur gear on higher speed gears is down to thick chunky 8mm bushings
Good but there isn't bundles of slack/play for shimming thicker gears up easily
(normal shimming stuff but a bit less room than say a G&G box imho - nothing major though)
The gun represents great value for money - but and it is a massive sumo wrestler butt....
Be very careful just how nutz you go upgrading stuff - even if you do it all yourself
Many times the risk of screwing it up or making it worse will outweigh the cost in time/money
Plus it will still be a cheapo china gun - even if you do make it sing
Use it for what is, mess with it when it needs it or if it busts then scrap it for spares or bin it
I've wasted lots more than just £70 or so on my bad first few choices
Think the wiring at back is a more flexible or semi flex silicon wire to make a bit more durable
When bending the connectors back in the stock than the stiffer coating wire inside the gun's box
think it is just the type of insulation on the wire - I've seen much worse flimsy wiring looms
