KRYTAC CRB ... Battery options?

[Aaronrichardson]

Picked up my Krytac today Now i have a question as to what battery i should use for this gun...i spoke to Krytac in America via email and they replied 11.1v 20C maximum discharge... But some people online have said different and go 7.4 Lipo?

Also there are many shapes and sizes would i be better just taking my gun to a local airsoft shop and see what they say? Im quite sceptical about getting sold shit though as some people just sell you anything regardless of its its what you should have. Does anyone on here have this gun if so what battery do you have? or any pictures would be great.

Oh and one more thing is the MAH... so I've seen 100MAH all the way unto 3000MAH is the higher MAH just means the battery lasts longer? so 1000mah will loose charge before the 300MAH? have i got that right it doesn't effect the voltage or current charge ect

Thanks

 

[SeniorSpaz87]

As long as your gun can handle it, I prefer an 11.1V. It will give you a faster RoF (if you have a good motor that can handle your spring at higher RPMs). I use a Nanotech 11.1 brick - it fits in all my buffer tubes, so I don't have to worry about having an outside pouch. Its 1000mAh, and has a 20-40C discharge (usually more towards 20). Not the cheapest batteries, but one or two lasts me a day.

 

[Baz JJ]

I use 7.4V but have the slower motor (CRB MK1). I play milsim so dont need high rof as Im using semi or very short bursts of three or four rounds on full auto to save ammo.

I normally use a 1450maH stick up one side of the buffer tube. I did try a bigger capacity brick in the end butt plate and it fitted but I dont really need the capacity for a day game. Smaller battery lasts all day.

 

[Hangtight]

The mAh of a battery is a measure of how much charge it will hold, so yes if you've got a device that pulls a certain current them the 3000mAh battery will last approximately 3 times as long as the 1000mAh. The C is different for different size batteries and is important for calculating the maximum current the barett can safely supply as well as the correct charging current. For example take something like an 11.1V, 1500mAh LiPo. Take the 1500 and divide it by 1000, which gives 1.5, C is measured in amps so for a 1500 mAh battery C is 1.5A. For a 2200mAh battery it would be 2.2A.

The maximum discharge for LiPos is usually 20C, but this can vary so always check. So for our 1500mAh battery with a C of 1.5A the maximum current it can safely (and continously deliver) is 20 x 1.5 = 30 A.

Charging current varies depending on the size of battery. Usually a battery is charged at 1C, so the 11.1V, 1500mAh example will charge at 11.1V and 1.5A.

A fully charged battery being discharged at 1C will last about an hour. So 1500mAh with a 1.5A load on it will keep going for 60 minutes.

A decent smart charger is not a bad investment!

 

[Sico]

I use this battery.

 

[callumbagshaw]

I use an 11.1v LiPo, but it should be noted that both myself, and a friend of mine (who has a SPR) had the gears stripped while using this battery, not sure if we just got a bad batch, and not sure if it's related to the battery used... I took it down to my local tech, they put a new spring and some ASG ultimate gears in (although I believe he had to modify the gear set slightly), among some other stuff - since then, the fire rate is even faster (about 28 RPS), and the accuracy is insane.

 

[ImTriggerHappy]

I use an 11.1v LiPo, but it should be noted that both myself, and a friend of mine (who has a SPR) had the gears stripped while using this battery, not sure if we just got a bad batch, and not sure if it's related to the battery used... I took it down to my local tech, they put a new spring and some ASG ultimate gears in (although I believe he had to modify the gear set slightly), among some other stuff - since then, the fire rate is even faster (about 28 RPS), and the accuracy is insane.

Something sounds off there.The only thing I have seen go in a krytac gearbox is a piston. I know of one of the very originals that runs on an 11.1V that plays every week and has done over a 100 thousand shots and the gears are like new also have just fitted a new mosfet to a DMR SPR thats shooting 420fps and again after countles games the gears are perfect.

Did this tech actually show you the gears because if you said it had stripped the piston the that sounds more realistic.

 

[callumbagshaw]

Something sounds off there.

The only thing I have seen go in a krytac gearbox is a piston. I know of one of the very originals that runs on an 11.1V that plays every week and has done over a 100 thousand shots and the gears are like new also have just fitted a new mosfet to a DMR SPR thats shooting 420fps and again after countles games the gears are perfect.

Did this tech actually show you the gears because if you said it had stripped the piston the that sounds more realistic.

Yes I saw the gears with my own eyes - in fact I still have them. In the case of both the CRB and the SPR, the teeth on the gears had been ground down to nothing, rendering the gearset a useless set of discs spinning against thin air.

Like I said, we think we just got a bad batch. Unfortunately, we both voided our warranties via custom painting & wiring to deans.

Which reminds me!

Switch your Tamiya connection to Deans, better trigger response, and the contacts are much more durable.

 

[Aaronrichardson]

Wow thanks guys for the reply, as always i really appreciate it. One question i do have is regarding the nunchuck batteries , so lets say you have a standard single stick battery which is 1000mah and you get a 3stick/nunchuck battery that is also 1000mah is the nunchuck 1000mah per stick or overall? Only reason i ask is there isn't much difference in price from what i can see so it would be easier to just get the single stick and pop it into the buffer tube.

 

[callumbagshaw]

Wow thanks guys for the reply, as always i really appreciate it. One question i do have is regarding the nunchuck batteries , so lets say you have a standard single stick battery which is 1000mah and you get a 3stick/nunchuck battery that is also 1000mah is the nunchuck 1000mah per stick or overall? Only reason i ask is there isn't much difference in price from what i can see so it would be easier to just get the single stick and pop it into the buffer tube.

That's something I've always wondered actually.

I have this battery and it lasts me (just about) a full day:

http://www.landwarriorairsoft.com/batteries-bbs-gas-chronographs-c5/batteries-c62/nuprol-11-1v-1450mah-25c-stock-tube-lipo-p3194

Note - once that battery is in the buffer tube & connected, I can't position the stock as positions "0" or "1" - that suits me fine because I prefer a slightly longer stock, but consider this before you buy a battery.

 

[PT247]

It would be total not per stick.

 

[Aaronrichardson]

What do people think to this battery?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NanoTech-1400mah-3-Cell-Airsoft-Lipo-Stick-Battery-Pack-11-1V-15-25-C-/231939874210?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368

Also this is the battery actually on Krytacs website

https://krytac.com/shop/bbs-and-batteries/team-tenergy-11-1v-1200mah-stick-li-po

Hard to find this battery in the Uk but ill keep looking

 

[PT247]

if going 11.1v LiPo then this will fit:

http://www.nuprolairsoft.eu/index.php/consumables/batteries/lipo/weeu-1450mah-11-1v-25c-lipo-nunchuck-type.html

 

[Aaronrichardson]

Does it matter that its a 30C discharge rate though? and not the 20C recommended by Krytac?

 

[PT247]

worked in mine and all mine are mk1's so not supposed to use an 11.1v LiPo in them at all as UK guns overspin apparently, it is why we got the 20k motor too. If you are really worried, how about buying a battery for yours from the shop that sold you the gun?

 

[Aaronrichardson]

The shop have ran out of batteries lol! but man o man i didn't realise there was so much info online regarding batteries even online youtube videos explaining them! Even charging the batteries you need a special charger to balance them. All new to me this. Oh don't suppose you know if the MK2 have the 30k motor in the UK?

 

[PT247]

nope, still get the 20k motor in the Mk2s I believe.

 

[Hangtight]

Batteries will only supply the current they're asked too, so 30C just means the battery is capable of supplying way more current than the motor will ever draw. Which means it'll never be working near it's limit, which is a good thing!

For chargers check out radio control plane sites. Same battery technology, but prices can be more competitive and there's a load of choice.

 

[ImTriggerHappy]

Yes I saw the gears with my own eyes - in fact I still have them. In the case of both the CRB and the SPR, the teeth on the gears had been ground down to nothing, rendering the gearset a useless set of discs spinning against thin air.

Like I said, we think we just got a bad batch. Unfortunately, we both voided our warranties via custom painting & wiring to deans.

Which reminds me!

Switch your Tamiya connection to Deans, better trigger response, and the contacts are much more durable.

I have just spent a couple of days trying to get a crb to strip its gears and I can't make it happen. I have caused every lock up possible poor shimming, bad timing, anti reversal lock up, incorrect aoe etc etc and got nothing except 2 wrecked pistons. Even tried it with a titanium piston rack to prevent the piston going first and nada. It just stalled the motor and that was a Ultimate 1800 super high torque.
If you do still have the wrecked gears can I have them to do a bit of testing, I will get a rockwell test done and see if the material was too soft.

If your gears failed in the way you said then none of the things you did should have voided the warranty as the gearbox was not opened. If there is a material defect then I can probably get the money you spent repairing it back as its a manufacturing defect so your warranty should of covered it.

 

[callumbagshaw]

I have just spent a couple of days trying to get a crb to strip its gears and I can't make it happen. I have caused every lock up possible poor shimming, bad timing, anti reversal lock up, incorrect aoe etc etc and got nothing except 2 wrecked pistons. Even tried it with a titanium piston rack to prevent the piston going first and nada. It just stalled the motor and that was a Ultimate 1800 super high torque.

If you do still have the wrecked gears can I have them to do a bit of testing, I will get a rockwell test done and see if the material was too soft.

If your gears failed in the way you said then none of the things you did should have voided the warranty as the gearbox was not opened. If there is a material defect then I can probably get the money you spent repairing it back as its a manufacturing defect so your warranty should of covered it.

Sweet!

I'll dig them out over Xmas and get hold of you. Like I said the same thing happened to both my CRB, and my mate's SPR after about 4 or 5 skirmishes.

PM me some postage details I'll get them sent out to you when i can - I also have the receipt for the work i had done somewhere too...

But I did think that custom paint jobs & re-wiring to deans voided warranty?

I'm not too clued up on gears & gearboxes, but the tec explained it to me like this:

The gears sit on a pivot, and that pivot had a little wobble, which eventually became a big wobble as the gears were spinning, meaning the teeth just ground up against whatever they came into contact with.

He replaced them with ASG ultimate something something gears, but said he had to make a modification to them to make them fit as krytac gears are a little different to the usual style. Since he's done that (I had him flat hop it, install a tbb and a stronger spring while he was at it) it shoots like an absolute beast.