Davegolf

@Mr. No_Face I think you need to be a bit more matter of fact. With that in mind, when you say ‘mag erupts’ do you mean it vented all the gas out the exit valve? Or it sprayed all the BB’s into the receiver? The MWS is a fine RIF, and as is the case with all GBB’s their function is a complete balancing act. If you change one thing it will have knock on effects. As you are new to the MWS I’m pretty sure it’s more you learning about it than it bing a crap product The most likely cause of a jam/double feed in the MWS is crap ammo or bio BB’s that are old / swollen. (other less likely cause is swollen bucking, too much hop) The most like cause of gas dump is overfilling of the mag, basically the exit valve ices up and it won’t shut off. (other cause is dry piston seal stopping full cycle which in turn doesn’t knock off/reset the gas knocker) You should weigh the gas into your mags, this will give the ultimate reliability and shot fps consistency.

Seriously go back like 3 pages, Page 238 to be specific.

I would still not recommend an AG nozzle, don’t confuse people - the fact of the matter is your mag exploded, if any nozzle other than an aluminium crashed into that it’s get destroyed 🙂

I love brushless in my RC car, im sure theyll be common place in airsoft before long, but i dont see they are really neccersary - seeing as we only ever want our motors to go from standstill to flat out, the joy of brushless in RC is the modulation you have incredible power and torque.

You missed the hand around the buttstock, suprised the owner didnt fit a pistol brace I must also rudely say, is that a christmas decoration up front or camoflage... you know the enemy only ever attack from straight ahead, not any of the other 359 degrees

Inferior! 🤐 Brushed motors been around a lot longer than brushless 😂

So have you ordered a U-22000 or are you still persuing ball ache?

Clearly 😂

IDK why all the complexities, with your current gearing - if reliable, quiet, cool running 24RPS is your goal then run a Infinity U-22000 CNC with 11.1v Assume you were running a Titan before brushless?

I agree best looking RDS I’ve seen on an FNX 👍 @JimFromHorsham M14 is cool, #frontheavy you must be fit as a butcher’s dog!

🙈 I Know, but who the F uses it really? No SF or army personel anyone knows of openly.

I did wonder if I’d missed a product release! Def cool but carbine kits do jar with me a bit from a realism POV.

@rocketdogbert you got a pic!?

For that money you could buy an upgraded NGRS second hand by KOA for example. Or get over the fps - like banging head against a wall - TM work very well, you can always upgrade it, or buy it upgraded from somewhere like FireSupport or DCA with an M100, gear set and deans conversion, really not that spendy. IMO other than stealth and spastic ROF I really don’t rate HPA that highly. A decent AEG is the best assualter. Adecent GBBR best realism and easy performance… MWS!? BASR or HPA sniper best long range gun. The NGRS is the cheapest to run, most reliable and consistent all year round. The Scar, 416 and M4 are the best performing. If you did the 3 basic mods above, that’d be 330-340 fps. Run a G&G green and Super Nub will get you a very nice 55M with 0.28s If you want more then up the road Rhop it to see 65M range. If your frugal n your play style then the MWS is a very satisfying RIF to use.

If you say so 😂

Minature flat head screwdriver for the win

Any air seal you lubricate with GunSav - So magazine valves and BCG.

Theres only 2 in the BCG, and its only the big piston O ring that needs doing daily. Literally a 3 minute job.

Not if you are doing solid 8hr game days, yes if youre just plinking. Its just the BCG not all your mags 😂 The piston seal will dry up and you'll get a bolt that wont cycle fully.

There needs to be a sticky for this info 🙈 MODS FOR RELIABILITY; >Quality armourers wrench. >Spare nozzle spring - the original one will last a very long time but will fatigue eventually. (DP are good spares). >Spare nozzle in case you get a stoppage or some freak breakage. >Spare bucking. >A SixG HSB to protect the buffer part ‘b’. >TechT GunSav lube for O rings - the gun needs lubing daily. >Parker Hale gun oil for everything else. >Categorically no Angry Gun or Nuprol parts. (Nuprol gas is OK) >Feed it quality ammo. >Keep it clean. You can use any gas you like with a HSB installed. It will handle it all, you may just need to adjust the buffer tube for reliable lock on empty with powerful gases. MODS FOR UPGRADE; >A lightweight bolt - only necessary if you want even faster cycle time and/or play in Sub 10c temperatures a lot. >SixG Super Nub for range and accuracy. >Bucking TM, Modify Tan, or Maple MR 50d (needs mod to fit) >370mm barrel and for big FPS/DMR use >NPAS if you need to control FPS more. >Trigger box work for crispest action, you will need a good 10,000 shots to bed all the parts in first though.

Most likely an assembly issue if all standard parts.

Yes, green is not potent enough. Im not a big fan personally of long barrels as I they can start hurting accuracy if you cheap out. As the barrels become longer the likeliness of them being out of true or having flaws increases. The longer the barrel the more imperative quality is.

You will need red gas for 400+ or go longer barrel. PS the PRI looks sweet 👍

370 in an M4A1

DP or Modify work pretty well