[THE TM MWS thread]

Are these npas drop in fit or does it require sanding? 

[THE TM MWS thread]

15 hours ago, Arassuil said:

No Problem and am Happy to help. I had a bit of time over lunch so here's a bit more information.

 

I installed it just before the pandemic so I've only been able to field it twice so I don't know about long term, but threadlock wasn't needed. I set it in the morning and checked it during the lunchtime break and it did not need readjusting.

 

Attached are a few pictures. The BCG with the valve installed and where it sits to get my desired FPS.

 

 

I also maxed it and crono'd some rounds to give an idea of the max fps of this 4.5 valve. To get the variables out of the way, this is standard TM BCG (except for springs), 6.03 370mm barrel, Modify tan rubber, CNC'd hop arm with some hop applied. Mag was probably half full.

 

 

 

Lastly, the MWS in question

 

 

That is quite consistent shots 👍. With the nozzle full open it shoots 400 with 0.3s ? What fps do you usually set it to?

[THE TM MWS thread]

10 hours ago, Arassuil said:

 

Hi,

 

I'm a long time lurker, but Have had an MWS for a while. I have the 4.5 (Gold) G&P npas and a 370mm Inner Barrel and just checked it out. I generally set it between 1.1 - 1.2 joules on .3g's which is around the 290fps mark, which is with the valve around 1/3rd open on Green Gas. I remember when I first installed it with it fully opened, I was getting around 450. 

 

Hope that helps.

 

Thank you for the answer. I am thinking of getting the 4.5 as well. I am wondering If i need to threadlock the screw once the adjustment is set correctly? 

[THE TM MWS thread]

5 hours ago, Davegolf said:

 

Youll just have to wind the power down, it's a big advantage the joule creep, and if your engagements are mostly 50+M then you want 0.36s in that.

 

Good thing is your vertical deviation is a misnomer.

 

At 60M even a light breeze will curl a BB of course.

Also trigger discipline is a big thing. 😉

 

 

Thanks for the feedback:) My trigger discipline needs work for sure lol. I was testing 0.36 today and the consistency was very good (able to hit a head sized object quite frequently at 145 feet). I might end up using 0.36 but it cost much more lol.... Good thing its not a spray and pray AEG. As for winding down the power, I am thinking of getting a NPAS. I am just wondering if you have any experience with the G&P npas nozzles as it has so many model variances. I am thinking of getting the 4.5 or 5.0 model as it is speced for 280-370mm and 370 and up barrels.

[THE TM MWS thread]

9 hours ago, Davegolf said:

You need to rule out wind for sure.

 

And note if they are generally curving vertically up/down or laterally left/right

Was curving right and sometimes left. I did feel a breeze during shooting. Vertical deviation seems not too bad. I have my hop set as flat of a trajectory as I can , so bb doesn’t rise at the end of flight path. 
 

I am also wondering how I can with my guns insane joule creep. The field I play at allows 420fps /1.7 joules with 0.2bb , but they also chrono your fun with the bb weight that you will be playing with. My gun shoots 422 with 0.2bb but 370 with 0.32... , so I tried 0.36g and it shoots 358. 😫

[THE TM MWS thread]

I am wondering how accurate you guys can shoot at around 62 meter / 200 feet on a man sized target? I tested out my mws yesterday with 0.32 g bb shooting 370 fps, I was able to hit a trash can 6 times out of 10. The missed shots curved at the end of the flight path. I am not sure if it’s because of cross wind or inconsistency in my hop up / bb chambering by the bolt. 

[THE TM MWS thread]

16 hours ago, marine said:

 

 

best option it´s G&P i know that 3.5 it´s perfect to 1.14J but these joules.... no idea

 

 

 

My field limit is 420 fps with 0.2 at 1.7 joules. My gun currently is shooting way too hot at 460 fps . Which g&p naps would be better? I saw that the 4.5 and 5.0 version is for inner barrel 280-370mm and 370 plus. 

[THE TM MWS thread]

On 08/07/2020 at 21:50, JUSTICE_RAINS said:

Hey guys, so I watched @Bada Bing's beautiful MTR-16 review and caved in and bought one. First post here.

 

I was so impressed with the performance I decided to make a montage of a day's worth of gameplay with it. 😀

 

 

It's not your typical gameplay and any sort of feedback or support would be greatly appreciated. If this isn't allowed let me know.

 

I've put about 3000 rounds through the MTR-16 so far and it's running strong. I had to shave down the trigger guard to get the Ace 1 Arms PMAGs to fit, and they had a rough break in period where they would jam the gun every half dozen mags or so and eventually the locking lugs of my Angry Gun NPAS nozzle broke off (Thankfully somehow still working!). The gun itself is fantastic, no complaints. It gets tons of compliments on the field every time I take it out, and people love shooting it. I have only upgraded the buffer to a G&P adjustable one, used the Angry Gun NPAS nozzle for FPS adjustment, and fitted a Maple Leaf MR Hop bucking for that sweet sweet range. Surprisingly it out-ranges most AEGs on the field even at the same joule level.

 

I also tried the TNT bucking but that one was just not consistent enough for my liking, there was a break-in period of 500 rounds where it just kept hooking left and right and I couldn't deal with the lateral inconsistency. So I went back to my Maple Leaf MR Hop and it's been serving me faithfully since. The strange thing about the TNT bucking is that it has better vertical consistency than the Maple Leaf MR Hop, but worse lateral deviation. The MR Hop has better lateral deviation and slightly worse vertical dispersion, though the overall grouping favors the MR Hop because vertical dispersion is easier to adjust than lateral. Not surprisingly, inner barrel length or diameter has very little effect, if any, on my MTR. I used a Maple Leaf 410mm inner barrel and it did raise the joules quite a bit, but effect on either accuracy or range was negligible. I'm fairly certain 90% of the accuracy comes from having good tolerances with no wobbly parts, consistent gas output, and a really good bucking/nub combo. I prefer the stock barrel because I don't want insane joule creep.

 

I've also upgraded to propane and noticed it doesn't smell half bad. I'm used to smelly smells (mostly from fermented Korean food). 

 

Oh and the best part - my MTR-16 G Edition did not come with red loctite on the barrel nut (though there was red loctite on the handguard screw threads). Strange! And quite thankful. I can strip it down to the upper and chamber in a matter of minutes without having to exert enough pressure to crush carbon into diamonds.

 

I do have one issue with it - on the stock bucking and TNT bucking, the gun has no issue dumping a full mag accurately on full auto. However, on the MR Hop, the gun will shoot a few BBs fine, then a couple BBs will drop out of the end of the barrel with 0 hop. Basically my spray pattern is a mix of straight BBs and dropping BBs. I'm 99% sure it's the Maple Leaf MR Hop bucking but I don't use it on full auto enough to warrant changing anything yet. It could also be because I'm using a 70 degree bucking at 1.2-1.4 joules which is a little bit harder than most people would use. Maybe I will remove the metal bucking stabilizing ring and see if that has any effect.

 

I can't wait for what TM has in store for their AK GBBR on July 17th when they'll finally reveal it.

I am wondering what hop up set up you went with along with your maple leaf mr hop? I tried using it on my mws and found it inconsistent laterally. The trajectory seems nice when it’s flying straight.

[THE TM MWS thread]

Speaking of bolt carriers. What bolt do you guys recommend? I currently have a UAC aluminum bolt. Unfortunately, the bolt catch notch is not reinforced, I am worried it will eventually wear down and break.

[THE TM MWS thread]

Just installed the Laylax hop up chamber along with modify bucking. I am running into this weird issue where, the first bb that is chambered from a newly loaded mag always over hops to the sky, but all the following shots are straight and consistent. I am wondering if anyone else ran into this issue?

[THE TM MWS thread]

Hi guys,

I am wondering if anyone has tried out the maple leaf max range hop up bucking yet? It seems to be quite good for vsr 10s.

[THE TM MWS thread]

Hi guys, 

 

I am running into an issue where after prolonged use of my mws, I noticed that the nozzle head is slowly scrapping bits of the hop up rubber off at the runners ‘s entrance inner layer. I am using the tan modify bucking and I am wondering if anyone ran into the same issue as me?

[THE TM MWS thread]

5 hours ago, SSPKali said:

AI and Madbull propane adaptors failed to work on my MWS mags (with or without the silent fill mod) so I gave up. Now I look out for deals on Abbey gas and stock up on that

 

SixG responded to me about the buffer spring spacer, think there were issues with the mail system

Aww sucks to hear about the adaptors. I used this adaptor in the past and it works but now it doesn’t, guess I have to use green gas only for this gun lol... kinda expensive compared to propane 😭

[THE TM MWS thread]

Hi guys, 

 

I am running into an issue where my mws mags aren’t charging properly with propane bottles using Airsoft innovation adaptor. Basically, the flow of gas stops quite quickly and the magazine can not fire many rounds. Yet, the same mag can be filled with my green gas bottle no problem. Gas flow is constant, and with a full charge I can shoot about 3 and half mag. I am wondering if anyone else ran into this issue?

[THE TM MWS thread]

10 hours ago, Davegolf said:

When tightening the barrel nut you need to make sure that the hop lever stays centralised in the the reciever groove.

 

Yours is probably rubbing on one side 

I tried my best to align it this time and checked the arm for freedom of movement as I tightened the nut. Seems to be free to move right now, fingers crossed it won’t tighten again once many rounds are fired through it 

[THE TM MWS thread]

Hi guys,

 

I am wondering if anyone has run into issues where after tightening the barrel nut, the hop arm arm doesn’t move as freely. I am running into this issue where after dialing hop up all the way down, there is still hop shown in the barrel. Only if I press down on the hop with a barrel rod, does it reset. 
If anyone has this issue , how were they resolved?

 

i am currently using a centurion arms mlok rail with a pts barrel spacer.

 

Thank you kindly  

[THE TM MWS thread]

What buckings do you guys use mostly? I currently have the modify tan bucking with a H nub. I am wondering if firefly bucking is any good, it is quite expensive.

[THE TM MWS thread]

15 hours ago, adas1223 said:

stock 250mm 340fps ...laylax 6.01 373mm 370fps... duster gas saw NO change and maintained 240fps. everything stock but the barrel.

 

modifying the stock rocket valve got 450 on propane and 350 on duster (601 barrel) 

 

go figure.

 

I 

 

15 hours ago, adas1223 said:

stock 250mm 340fps ...laylax 6.01 373mm 370fps... duster gas saw NO change and maintained 240fps. everything stock but the barrel.

 

modifying the stock rocket valve got 450 on propane and 350 on duster (601 barrel) 

 

go figure.

 

My mws stock was shooting around 360, after Prometheus barrel and modify bucking, bolt nozzle assembly upgrade, I am shooting around 440-450 on propane?

32 minutes ago, SSPKali said:

Wow glad I haven't forked out £200+ for that trigger set. I like tinkering but not fixing other peoples bad designs or executions!

 

Is there anything worth doing to the stock trigger unit to make it a little crisper on the break point and reset? Would disassembly and polishing help?

Ya it’s expensive  I got mine for 185 usd. I was disappointed when it didn’t work out of the box. But now that I got it working, I have gotten the trigger pull to a point where there is no slack. The wall is right at the beginning. Hope it last though ...

[THE TM MWS thread]

10 hours ago, Horse84 said:

Yea that will work for a couple of mags but it will revert back to its bad habits at least that’s what mine did. Realistically for that price you shouldn’t be having to do that much work to get it to work for what is, in reality, a negligible improvement in performance and functionality over the stock trigger box.

Ya I agree , it’s too much tinkering. I wish it was less adjustability and more reliability. I am wondering if the recoil messed up the setting for you? I ended up blue thread locking the bottom screw, will have to see how long that last me .

 

On a side note, I ended up replacing my trigger sear spring with a weaker one lol... I found a spare disconnector spring on my tm glock, and used that instead. It seems to make the trigger sear not clamp as hard on the hammer as the original spring but still enough to stop hammer from resetting during bolt cycle. 

[THE TM MWS thread]

11 hours ago, Horse84 said:

I have the exact same issue with my g&p trigger box so I’ll be interested to see any replies. Extremely disappointed with the product considering the exorbitant price I paid for it. I’ve tried lubing and I’ve uninstalled and reinstalled in numerous times to zero affect. I’ve just gone back to the stock trigger and I don’t think I’ll be going back.

I actually got it to work today. Basically, I loosened the hammer tension screw as well as set the trigger travel adjustment screw to neutral. I applied decent amount of Teflon grease on the hammer hook and the trigger sear and just played with the trigger sear adjustment screw until the trigger sear just lightly engages with the hammer. At this  point previously the trigger would get caught and won’t reset, unless I push the trigger bar forward. But with the Teflon grease applied, the friction was gone and the trigger will reset even after hammer is recocked. I also lengthened and increased the spring tension on the sear in back that catches the hammer. It seems that the stronger spring allows the sear to catch the hammer faster.  

[THE TM MWS thread]

Hi guys,

 

I am new to this forum. I have a question regarding g & g adjustable trigger box. I recently purchased the trigger box but ran into issues. No matter what I do, I run into sticky trigger problem. After firing, and the bolt cycles, my trigger won’t reset properly. It seems when I release the trigger after firing, the adjustable trigger sear is still caught on the hammer. I have to manually push my trigger bar forward to disengage it, and I can squeeze the trigger again. I am wondering if anyone else ran into this problem and was able to solve it?

 

Thank you