SnakeDoctor87

Cheers, The aoe is spot on and shimming is much better now ive gone back through it. The bevel height is much better so the pinion isnt being squished. Which would have cause friction and im guessing more current draw. I just put the gear box back together, along with a 25c lipo connected with deans. I repaired the wiring with heatshrink so theres no worry for it shorting out which could also have been a possibility after finding exposed wiring below the motor armature. I just ran the gearbox under load and theres no instant warming even after a solid amount of shot through single and 3 round burst. Im gonna test it more tomorrow before work as its late now and i dont want to wake my boy up. But fingers crossed/touch wood all your combinations of thought have helped me fix my gun. I will let you all know after i fully test as i have appreciated all your input and learnt loads more than i was expecting through doing this process so even if i do have to go back to the og build it was still worth it. Thanks all 🙂

So i suppose the question or decision is do i swap back to the og motor which was a g&g 18k motor and keep the 13:1 or stick with the 40k motor and go back to the 18:1 i had before. Or just go back to the setup originally. 18:1 with the 18k motor but use the 25c battery i now have. The reason i was changing was cause i wanted snappier trigger response but the 3 round burst struggled. But i suppose that was down to current draw and there not being enough from the 20c battery? Maybe, im piecing together what you guys are telling me. Im not above admitting defeat, but i also want to get this working so im happy with my aeg when i next use it, but also dont want it exploding in my arms either so a compromise between what im building is needed.

Hey guys, Thanks for the new replies. I have tested the motor all hooked up and only the motor got warm while not cycling the gearbox. I think i may have shimmed the bevel too tightly. I was following a negative airsoft vid on doing spur first and I didn't cater for the motor height. No nothing when idle, cheers for the tip though. I do have one but dont really know how to use it. It came with the soldering iron I bought lol I have bought a 25c battery to see if the higher c will keep the temps down. I think the wiring is already 16 awg, Sorry unsure about wiring too. The perun was pre-wired with low resistance wiring. The motor did have trouble going into the gearbox hence why I think I've shimmed the bevel incorrectly, I've already nicked the existing cabling which I discovered this morning so need to repair that to rule out shorting. I do intend to change to deans though as I've had endless connection issues with tamiya on all my guns so ill have a Deans swapping day at some point. Thanks guys, I'll keep updating after every change I make incase you guys think something I don't.

Cheers Roderborg, I'm gonna get a better battery and test the motor like you suggested.

Hey, yeah shimming and piston travel was tested. The motor im not sure about. Was the next thing I was gonna check tbh. So how do the battery specs work? Im a little unsure about the c count.

So guys, I recently went to Warzone in coventry and took my G&G Firehawk. Which now doesnt resemble a firehawk at all. Anywho I wasnt happy with the performance, sluggish response, cycling slowly when using 3 round burst - despite having a Perun drop in MOSFET and ETU. I'll start off my saying this is more of a process diary for me, i think better when I put my thoughts on paper/screen. But and advice/suggestions are more than welcome. Anywho, I decided to change out the standard gears from 18:1 to 13:1. Probably over kill in hindsight with an ASG boost 40k. Now I'm suspecting this is actually a high speed motor despite Bullseye Country Sport listing it as a high torque. Cause although I'm getting what I want out of the build, the moment I start firing the gun the wires near the battery get hot quickly. Especially at the Tamiya connection. Not burny hot but enough for you to notice it after a couple of shots. After a while the battery will then start to get warm. So somewhere there is resistance and I ent that good with electrics. The Perun uses low resistance wiring so for it to start getting warm this quick something is up. The shimming is fine, minimal play with no rubbing and freely rotates numerous rotations when screwed closed and rotated with my finger when testing. Im also using a madbull internal kit, cylinder, cylinder head, piston and nozzle. The piston was tight on the tracks so modified it so it moved freely along the tracks in the gearbox. The motor sits in the grip quite well although the gearbox hole and pistol grip hole are off centre by a couple of mil. So could be changing the angle it sits on the bevel slightly and creating more friction that standard. Although the motor adjustment adjusted fine with no noticeable grinding or straining. I adjusted till it whined then quarter/half turned it back until it sounded nice. The battery I used in testing is a Nuprol 7.4v 1300mah stick with 20c single and 52c burst. I forgot to mention the Perun is also fused with a 30a fuse. As wired by Perun. Not sure on the spring I think its either an m90 or m100 and I havent been able to chrono before or after the build so not sure on fps yet (my brother on law and I share the chrono) Overall the build turned out how I wanted it to, its snappy, responsive and sounds much better than it did previously and I had a lot of fun putting it together. But I dont want to risk using it until the heating up issue is sorted. Sorry for the length, thanks for reading did you got this far. Rob.

Hey All, I love the classifieds section, bought a good bunch of gear and accessories from there. However i fons myself looking for parts in bulk and maybe for specific models to replace or tinker with and noticed there isnt a section for boneyard items. I think it would be easier if there was a boneyard section to save scrolling through every category to try and find something worth picking up for parts. I get that you have the parts section, but thats usually it. I like to tech guns so being able to buy a gearbox say, thats not working but someone was willing to sell hoping it could be fixed, Id be interested in that without the need to scroll endless amounts of pages. Just an idea, Thnx for taking the time to read. Rob

Hey all, Wondered if you could help work out and issue I have with one of my 5 tm mags for my mp7. So I was at a game last night and blew through 3 of my 4 mags, they all worked fantastic considering they're second hand. But I got to my fourth mag and noticed that it wasnt firing with full power. The mag has no leaks, I use .20 tracers bbs with abbeys green gas equivalent. I fully gassed the mag up prior to the games and in two games had the same issue. It would fire the first round full power, then kick out a few rounds like it was nearing the end of its gas. You know that weak sound you get. Then it would fire a few rounds as normal then go back to being weak. I have no idea whats causing this. Any ideas peeps? Thnx in advanced, Snake 🐍

Hey Guys, I just built a new rig, My new setup consists of; Case: CiT G-Force RGB CPU: Ryzen 7 3800x Motherboard: Asus TUF B450-Plus Gaming PSU: CiT 650w GPU: XFX RX 5700XT Thicc III Ultra Edition RAM: 16GB DDR4 Corsair Vengeance SSD: Sandisk 120GB, Kingston 120GB and Intel Enterprise edition 600GB(courtesy of my job) CPU Cooler: Corsair H45 water cooler Peripherals: 2 x BenQ 60hz 22inch panel Keyboard: Corsair Strafe Cherry MX Red Mechanical Keyboard Mouse: Steel Series Rival 300 Mousepad: Roccat Taito Speakers: Phillips 100w rms 2.1 Headphones: Phillips SHG8200 No Pics I'm afraid.