Fissure

Thanks a lot for that, had no idea that existed. Have a m12 sidewinder for my AEGs and loving it. Guess I will have to get one of these as well! Goddamn shipping is more than the loader itself to Sweden, that's insane

Heya guys, thought I might throw out a question regarding an issue I am having with the mags for the MWS, have a TM speedloader that I only use for filling my grenades but thought I could use it for the MWS mags as well (its the larger one of the two) but trying to fill the mags broke the loader. One of the small screws popped out due to the hard resistance and jams up the pusher. It still works on AEG mags etc, tried a similar one a friend owns (don't know the brand) but no go there either. Anyone have any tips on a good loader that will work and why is it so freaking hard to load the mags, is this normal? (I am using the the little extension that is built onto the mag when trying to load btw) Cheers !

Oh so you have the NPAS already, strange! I did try it with a 370mm aps-x barrel and tried to tune it into the cqb limits here (328fps with 0.2bbs) and want to remember it working out pretty well. But if you already are running stock internals and shooting pretty hot i think you would have to try out either a shorther barrel or one with a bigger bore like 6.04 or even higher.

Oh I see, in that case I would go with the stock return spring and the RA-Tech NPAS ! With that one you can adjust the length of the valve itself quite a bit and go really low with the fps if you wish.

No problem! 1. No idea, never used the gun stock to be frank. If you are running the stock length barrel you will be pretty far away from these numbers I would guess? As for the valves go I have tried the follwing. -TM Stock plastic one -Firefly CNC -RA Tech NPAS -DP Enhanced Nozzle -SAT Technical Knockout system This one seems right now to be the most consistent of the high flow valves and the one I would pick for a build, except if you really wanna fine tune your FPS then the NPAS would be a better choice but you wont reach as high velocities with that one. Not a good answer, sorry about that ! 2. I am using the G&P return spring currently I have measured the spring resistance (higher = more gas into the barrel) on the -Stock spring -DP Enhanced Nozzle Spring set Guns Modify 150% Nozzle Reset spring set -G&P Spring Set The stock one and the Guns Modify has the same resistance (lighter spring) G&P and DP Springs are extremely close with the G&P one just a tiny bit stiffer 3. There is a screw that goes straight through the nozzle behind the gas window, this screw goes through the holes in the picture with arrows, so by chosing one of the three holes the thingy behind the nozzle valve will be located in different places and effecting the distance the valve have to travel before closing. 4. The O-ring is the same as the original o-ring as far as a I can see, it is placed on the other end of the spring that pulls back the nozzle when cycling (where the sealing buffer sits) 5. I have no idea what it is used for, I studied it and then used it to clean under my fingernails. Did not use it for installing though. Maybe someone has a better explanation Hope this helps !

Tried out the back position on it now and it went from 121m/s to 86m/s. So those few millimeters makes quite a bit of difference. Will try out the center position next then one could guestimate the ranges one could expect from the red unit. Edit: Yes sorry wrote the wrong unit, meant m/s in the first post there And sorry did not mention other upgrades but upgrades that might have an impact on the power would be a 410mm maple leaf crazy jet inner barrel and in the hop there is a tan modify bucking. Shorter barrel less power I would assume.

Tried out the red one today and their spring set. You can adjust the valve position a little bit by rotating the gold part, there are three positions to chose from they alter how far back the valve itself rests in its neutral position. My result with ultair greengas was 120,8-121 m/s using 0.4 bbs (2,93J). Aiming for 2.51 so this wont work for me, gonna try adjusting the valve to see how much difference it makes. Edited update. Here is the m/s I got from the three different positions (0.4bbs) Front - 121 m/s Middle - 104 m/s Back - 86 m/s Also added an image of the valve explaining what i'm talking about for those who don't understand.

They are reasonably accurate I would say but they are not reaching that mark for me but had to test it solo so really hard to see even with x6 magnification. If you lased the range I have no reason not to trust you, guess I will have to use a buddy as a target, might be easier. Yeah I did notice some joule creep with 0.32s had to go down to weaker gas to no overshoot. Currently trying out this hob rubber http://www.jbbguns.se/aeg-tillbehor/precisionspipor-och-hop-up/vsr-10-hop-up-gummi.html Sorry about the Swedish, think I read somewhere that this rubber was really good, don't remember where though. Also have some other rubbers Maple leaf Decepticon and Autobot 70 and 80 degree if i remember correctly Firefly rubber APS rubber for the APS-X barrel

The Fps is at our limits here in Sweden for a DMR/Semi build (2,51 Joule). Maybe something is wrong but I doubt it, the bb goes straight, the FPS is correct and the BB is hopped properly. Maybe heavier bbs will make a large difference then. Are you sure you are reaching 80 meters with 400 fps and a straight hop curve? Will try out some 0.43s when the weather has calmed down, stormy now so no point in that currently. Btw Tried a bunch of different valves (original, RA-Npas, Firefly, DP, and two more I cannot remember the name of) but they are mostly bogus, what makes the FPS difference is how thick the cap of the valve is and how stiff the valve spring is. You can make the original produce higher fps than the aftermarket ones using a dremel. The new G&P valves to look pretty good though, they have a short top and the same shape as the original preventing the valve rotating.

Think there only is one NPAS available (the RA-Tech one). Depending on what you want it can be good or bad. From what I noticed it is a bit unstable and you can't reach really high fps with it. On its upside you can dial it in downwards (for CQB etc). From what I have managed to find out trying to reach high FPS in a non hot climate is that the only combo that would work to reach around 500 fps (.2 bbs) was the DP enhanced nozzle which I shortened to make the stroke longer and a stiffer spring for the valve from the DP Enhanced Nozzle Spring set. Note that the valve spring in the Gunsmodify 150% stiffer spring set is not actually stiffer at all but the same stiffness as the original TM valve spring, the rest of the springs in that pack seem to be stiffer though. Using this combo with a Maple Leaf Crazy Yet 410 mm, Modify Brown Rubber and a copper roller nub I reach around 70 meters with 0.32 bbs with a slight overhop. Not sure how people reach 80-90 meters to be honest (if they actually do)

Thanks, yeah found the prices there. How come you got rid of it? How was the quality of the Hera stuff? Read so-so reviews of it ?

That makes me a bit hard, how much did it set you back? Edit: Nvm found the prices, 200 euro (ish) for the Hera stuff (exl rail). How long is the rail there ? 9"?