nathan13n

Pulsar H I have seen a lot of hate towards the gate HPA systems and yes they can perform horribly if they are not setup properly so thought I would make a little post to try and help some people. I started off with a Pulsar S which I could get to work but not work well mainly with BBs curving left, right or up everything but straight as much as a raged and blamed the engine, gearbox, hop up hop rubber it ended up being the alignment. Gate seem to have a issues with the nozzles on the Gate pulsar series (not so much the D or H ) but the S has them in abundance. During the setup no matter what hop up your using make sure you are using the nozzle sleeve this just helps it keep centred a little bit better. Alignment This is the big thing with the pulsar Series the alignment has to be good there are many ways to do this, but I would recommend grabbing a cheap gearbox like a specna arms orion and tap some bolts on the left and the right hand side just below were the tappet plate runs this will help you centre the left and right of the gearbox. If you want to pull the gearbox up tighten the buffer tube, then the pistol grip. If you want to lower the gearbox tighten the pistol grip, then the buffer tube. THESE is the most important step. The pulsar H nozzle is vastly better then the standard S and gives you more room for error. When you are checking your alignment, you want to grab a small endoscope camera 6mm so you can push it down the barrel and see how the nozzle is sitting in the hop up. You want a black ring around the nozzle even on all sides. Also make sure you’re doing this with the magazine in as this could slightly change your alignment. Once you have got this figured out you are in great hands and the fine tunning on the settings for FPS is a lot easier. Settings As odd as it sounds if you’re using a gate titan or aster make sure you reset it and put the mosfet into HPA mode. For some unknown reason everyone I know has had a better tunning when they select the engine as a single solenoid engine instead of a pulsar S or H. Don’t ask me why I have no clue. Once you have set your PSI for about 1.1j on a 330mm barrel on the S I needed about 70psi on the Pulsar H due to how the nozzle and increased chamber size I needed 90psi. Fine tuning the consumption is easy and the same as all other HPA engine set the dwell time on the Pulsar H I found around the 4m/s with a refresh of around 10m/s got me a great consistency with a deviation of +/- 4fps. People have found if you are having issues with fluctuation changing the RPS to 24/25 helps to solve this. The Pulsar H is recommended to not push past 35rps, but I have been fine with either 1 with not too many issues. Hop Up and Bucking When it comes to hop up and bucking, I ran through a decent amount the main thing you want is a bucking that has a good lip as this will cause a lot of issues. The common consensus is 4auntum and MP super macron bucking are the best. Due to the extra force from the nozzle if you have a hop then has something that help stiffen the bucking lips like the silent industries this helps with consistency. Shooting anything under a 0.3g BB isn’t going to work they are too light with the force generate by the nozzle you’re more likely to get fliers. I run 0.32g or 0.36g and don’t get many if any fliers once the bucking was broken in. The hop I tried were the Gate Eon, Maxx M4e, retro arms and Silent industry alpha. They all work well if you have the alignment correct but for my gear and m4 body I found the silent industry gave me the best consistency, hop and deviation then any other setup up whilst using the MP super macaron bucking. From a 3000 48ci tank I’m easily able to get 3000 shots if not more and they will be spamming the trigger in binary and auto. So, a full day of shooting it going to be easy depending on your playstyle. So, it’s efficient and once you have the alignment setup properly you have a good engine that does have its quicks as it does play up a little bit in the winter. Verdict From a stand point of setup this is by fair the worst wolverine, polarstar f2 and jack or even the backdraft are all easy to setup and align mainly down to they just having better nozzles but the stand out feature is the mosfet being able to update all features on the fly and having more options then the stand hpa fet does set it apart ( can still suffer from the same issues ). I would learn towards another brand but if you are upgrading from a Pulsar S the H is a lot better to install and deal with then the pulsar s. If Gate spent some time fixing the issue with the nozzle that allowed for easier alignment and slowed down the beta release of software and had more stable releases the pulsar system would be fantastic but until then would really recommend if your already in the ecosystem with a S then the H is worth the upgrade if you just getting into HPA go for the wolverine, N7, Polarstar and deal with less issues.

Hahhah i did see his it was the reason i got the MWS instead of the CGS. CGS is a great system but i just prefer the ease of access to parts and upgrade bits.

To use the Precison nub you need to slightly sand down the hop arm. Jaeger precision has a video on it. if you don’t remove it you end up with it applying pressure with 0 hop which send even 0.40g to the moon. i have found with my Mr Hop and omega bucking I can hop 0.4+ with no issue but with price I still with the 0.32/36g The CYMA CGS is a good system but it’s a MWS style gbbr meaning Cyma has updated bit that the my thought were needed so some of the internals are different, threads and mags are also slightly different. Where the DE is pretty much a straight clone of the TM MWS system to the point we’re being nosey I was about to switch the bolt+ trigger box from my maters TM and the DE still worked flawlessly also would argue the DE has a better trigger feel. So for parts and spares you have to hope other brands support the CGS system otherwise you just waiting in CYMA