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Sev

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About Sev

  • Rank
    AF-UK Starter

Profile Information

  • Guns
    Fully Custom VSR-R (for sale), Krytac CRB MkI (being totally rebuilt), TM Mk23, TM Hi-Capa
  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Bournemouth, UK

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  1. This advert is COMPLETED!

    • For sale
    • Used

    If you’ve watched Cleanshot’s videos on YouTube, you’d see him using a Reliku Customs VSR-R. Here is your chance to own one that is fully customized with nothing but the highest-quality parts! The Reliku Customs VSR-R is a custom one-piece outer barrel and receiver made from lightweight aluminium that is designed to eliminate many of the problematic variables and provide a stable, strong and consistent platform for performance parts to shine. That’s not all, there is also an integrated suppressor within the barrel! This custom design is actually Reliku’s tenth ever made and was built before Cleanshot’s. There is the number 10 stamped on the action which is visible from the magwell. There are are many custom mods and high performance parts to make this one of the best performing VSR-based snipers you’ll shoot. This project was a labour of love and cost me a lot more than this asking price to build, but this rifle was worth every penny I spent. I have used about 6,000 rounds in it to date. I only ever use Geoff’s Super Precision 0.43g bb’s and nothing else and it has been cleaned and maintained regularly. I am selling this rifle because I am undertaking a couple of new airsoft projects that will likely mean I will not get the use from this gun it deserves, so it is best to sell and put the funds towards those projects. I would also hate to see it just sat in its case collecting dust, when it deserves to be out in the field leaving welts and bruises on its victims! The full spec list is below. Included in the sale is: · The VSR-R itself · Integrated Multicam sling · Optics and Camo · Rifle Case · 2 x Action Army 50rnd mags · 6 x TM 25rnd mags · Stock Pouch Please do not hesitate to contact me with any questions. Don't miss out on this great opportunity to own a high-end VSR-based rifle at the snip of the price it would cost to build! Price: £675 excl. Shipping SPECIFICATIONS Rifle Custom made VSR-R one-piece action with integrated suppressor by Reliku Customs. Engraved #10. Trigger Group PDI Palsonite cylinder PDI VSR450 spring PDI stainless spring guide PDI tapered cylinder head PDI duralumin 90° HD piston Springer’s S-Trigger v.7 with modified stopper and sear to reduce cylinder wear and sear fouling. Milled Acetal Copolymer cylinder sleeve Barrel Group Action Army VSR hop-up chamber Maple Leaf Autobot 70° VSR bucking Maple Leaf concave nub Maple Leaf Crazy Jet 430mm 6.03mm TB barrel 3D printed PLA barrel spacers 3D printed suppressor endcap with foam surround throughout TM VSR mounting block, modified to fit action. Skee’s 3D printed TDC Mod with modified adjustment screw for improved durability. Furniture TM VSR Stock heavily modified to take VSR-R action, with custom sling slots and sound insulation TM VSR trigger guard TM Gspec bolt handle SMK 3-9x40 scope with custom sunshade and integral lens protector Scope cant level Performance Stock PDI VSR450 spring: 0.20g - 498fps / 2.3J 0.43g - 355fps / 2.5J Effective Range: 90m Longest confirmed kill: 95m This rifle will reach out past 100m easily, but to be effective and hit a man-sized target consistently may require more extreme accounting for environmental conditions and sometimes a little extra hop applied, which is easy with the TDC mod. For standard shot configurations, 85m-90m is max effective range.

    £675.00

    Poole, Dorset - GB

  2. I want to iterate what's been mentioned above... NO LUBRICATION INSIDE THE BARREL GROUP So that includes hop unit, bucking and barrel. Oil or grease in these areas will negatively affect the ability for your hop to apply backspin (as you are lubricating a part that relies on friction) as well as cause inconsistency in bb flight and accuracy. To add to that, any debris that comes into contact with those inner parts will stick inside and cause issues. A bucking will wear out eventually anyway, it's a sacrificial part, so no need to oil it. Clean your bucking in warm soapy water and dry naturally. Rubbing alcohol to clean the barrel. It should all be dry as a bone when you use it. Clean your barrel and bucking regularly. I do it roughly every thousand or two rounds in my AEGs, at a guess. If you're using bio bbs, then do it after every game. Lubrication-wise it's really simple. You can use silicon or Teflon grease. Inside the box use just a little on the gears, cylinder head and piston o-rings, piston races and trigger trolley. Don't smear loads in there either. Don't ignore a touch on the motor pinion either. You WILL need to get inside the gearbox to lubricate periodically as that grease will dry up and your box will suffer, including drying/cracking o-rings and increased wear on gear teeth. Like any collection of moving parts, lubrication and servicing are important to maintain durability, reliability and lifespan. If you don't like the idea of doing that yourself, a technician will be able to help you. Anywhere else is just to prevent corrosion on any bare metal parts, so just a squirt of silicon oil and rubbing it over the externals is fine. Normally only needed on exposed steel. nothing at all to get too confused about. Just remember to keep that crap out of your bucking and barrel!
  3. What you've done to the mag, as in that video, is fine. I did this on all my new EPMs as some manufacturing defects can be present and this clears that. Also, taking them apart for cleaning and maintenance is needed whenever they begin to misfeed and being able to do so is a selling point of the mag. I had one mag misfeed after two games as I had debris make its way inside and a disassembly and clean resolved it. I doubt anything you have done is causing your issues. Running the best quality bbs will always provide better results. I personally use Geoffs Precision or Super Precision.
  4. It seems you potentially did not read or understand any of my points. To reiterate - What the seller is offering is an item, NOT a sales package, unless they state otherwise. Therefore the price you should see is for the item only. The buyer should expect that the expense of getting the item to them is an extra charge. It is no different whenever you buy anything online or in any transaction where extras are offered. I never assume collection is likely at all. I'm simply advertising the price of my item. I never suggested I'd ask what courier to use. Yes, onus is on me to ensure the goods are dispatched adequately with sufficient insurance, but the buyer can have the choice to modify the delivery of the goods; they may ask for next day delivery, a Saturday 1pm delivery or any other option that is more expensive than a standard courier option and, as such, it affects the final price. The postage costs are variable. It is an extra cost on top of the item for delivery. The buyer can influence this cost. EVERY remote transaction is handled this way. Why on earth should it be any different for advertising used items? I'm afraid it is you who has the flawed idea of how transactions work. You say that, should you go this route to buy again, you would just ask for an invoice that includes postage. This is hilariously ironic, seeing as this is no different to asking about the postage cost in your initial enquiry and questions about the item! Seriously, if someone really cannot be bothered to ask me questions about my item, discuss preferred delivery and negotiate, then they really aren't that interested in my item, and I would rather not waste my time trying to deal with them. As I said earlier in the thread; that money is worth less to me than that held by a genuine enquirer. And I iterate again, regarding other posts since my last; PayPal fees are never acceptable to pass on to the buyer. Ever. You have chosen to offer that option to the buyer, as a backup or not, so it is your choice, not that of the buyer. If you do not wish to incur potential transaction fees in your sale then only offer options that do not include fees. I get this A LOT in my line of work. Seriously, cash is my LEAST preferred option! The only time asking for a price 'for cash' is when you think the seller would likely prefer this transaction off-the-books, for whatever reason. Asking the same thing in an online transaction is laughable!
  5. What the seller is offering is an item, NOT a sales package, unless they state otherwise. Therefore the price you should see is for the item only. The buyer should expect that the expense of getting the item to them is an extra charge. It is no different whenever you buy anything online or in any transaction where extras are offered. If someone is genuinely interested in an item, any normal person would ask about postage if it is not stated in the price. If that comes in too pricey, you negotiate. It is really simple and I find it strange that people cannot understand this. The only valid argument here is that the buyer should never be expected to cover any PayPal fees, and I totally agree with that. The buyer should only be liable for the cost of the item and getting it shipped to them if they cannot collect. If the seller wishes to use a payment method that costs them, they cannot pass that charge onto the buyer because the fee is not a direct result of a choice made by the buyer. The seller chose to have a service with a fee, not the buyer.
  6. There’s differences between courier services, and delivery speeds desired. Also, regarding your comment about negotiation. I have yet to encounter a customer who wants to avoid negotiation. In fact, the majority of enquiries on items are usually people who try and beat you up on price in their first line of the message. If if someone wants to know the shipping cost, simply asking in their initial enquiry is all it takes. Simple as that. “Ah, you live in X and want it to arrive this coming Saturday by 1pm, according to Y couriers pricing, that will be £Z” Postage is the variable here, so putting approximations on the listing makes no sense as it gets in the way of how the actual item is valued and can vary depending on the customer. And yes, if you are the kind of person who gets annoyed about whether you have to ask someone about shipping then I definitely wouldn’t be keen to deal with you. Your money is worth less due to the risk you pose to a quick, easy, trustworthy transaction. I sell very expensive luxury products for a living so I’m pretty well versed in how to structure a deal and negotiate with people. Anyone buying a RIF from me would be given all the expected assurances and everything would be very face-up before I took any money. That’s what I would expect myself, as a buyer.
  7. Youve entirely missed my point. Yes, you’re right that it’s my duty to ensure the item is delivered, but that is not what I am referring to at all. My my point is that somebody may want faster dispatch or live further away that increases shipping costs. I will not include an inaccurate guess figure for shipping for the sake of including it. You may not care how or when it arrives, but I have had people I have shipped to in the past who did. If if I have a serious buyer and they want to know shipping costs, we can use their preferences and info to generate an accurate cost of shipping. We can negotiate from there. It’s really not hard at all. The price on the listing is for the item only. That way they can see how the item itself is valued and can compare to other listings or items for sale. Again, it’s the same whenever you shop for something remotely. To to be honest, if someone is going to get as angry as OP about how an advert is listed then I’d rather not deal with them, they are likely a nuisance waiting to happen. If you don’t have trust between both parties, the transaction is best avoided.
  8. OP, You're mistaken for counting shipping charges as against PayPal's T&Cs. That clause is designed to prevent charging fees for handling the payment via PayPal or to try and cover the fee that PayPal itself charges the seller. Shipping charges are not the same thing. I advertise excl shipping because the buyer can see the actual price of the item I'm offering and they can choose the method of shipping that suits them and their budget. The final cost is then agreed and that is what is processed by PayPal. You rant that "Is it really THAT hard to work out what you want for it ?", so I counter with "is it really that hard to add on a little to cover how you want it shipped?" It's the same with any online retailer...
  9. Agree that samples would be great. I use a lot of heavyweight bb's and those things aren't cheap from premium brands. Even being able to buy a pack of 50 just to test consistency against your favourite brand(s) would be useful. I hate it when Geoff's run low everywhere as I don't know/won't risk buying larger amounts of an untested product. Slightly off-topic, but if anyone is considering sample packs to find the best bb weight for their guns, there's no need. I made this calculator to tell you that. All you need to know is your cylinder inner diameter and piston stroke length. For example, my cylinder is 23.8mm and piston stroke of 46mm. My barrel is 310mm 6.03. That's 2.31:1 and so a 0.32g bb is optimal. Check it out here for the Google Doc and here for a downloadable Excel file.
  10. Sorry to necro, but this may be handy for those discussing here, as well as anyone else interested. I was trying to find ways of calculating this all myself too. I have made a spreadsheet that should do the trick. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1_ZkGx_l-1dOppvGsG9w7vEiVVOB1CI2co6JkO_1_JtI Downloadable Excel file: https://www.dropbox.com/s/v6093fxjeme36h1/Volume and BB Weight Calculator by Sev (Excel).xlsx?dl=0
  11. Ok, makes sense on reflection. How would you avoid PME without shortstroking? The reason I'm keen to understand is that I am planning a DMR build for my next project :D
  12. Hi Whilst contemplating the barrel group options for a build in progress, I came upon a question I can't work out the answer to. In this build I have a cylinder with 23.8mm internal diameter and the piston stroke is 46mm. With the current 6.05mm 280 mm barrel that gives me a ratio of 2.54:1 which is close enough to the limit of 2.5:1. Luckily this build is for CQB and typical field play combined, so that'll work nicely, I think. My question comes with longer-barrelled builds. I've read that longer barrels favour a higher ratio (between 2 and 3.5) because the detrimental effects of a low ratio are exaggerated. The thing is, by my calculations, with a 6.03mm 370mm barrel you would need a stroke of 61mm to hit 2.5. If you tried that in a fast, torque-based DMR build, which is likely short-stroked, how do you gain that extra cylinder volume needed? Either my maths is wrong, my information is wrong or people using longer barrels are running seriously sub-optimal with high-tuned setups. Which is it?
  13. Hi all,I have been a proud owner of my MK1 CRB for about 18 months, and apart from a Maple Leaf bucking and concave nub, it is completely stock internally.I am now looking to tune the CRB to improve consistency, accuracy and longevity of the internals. I'm not after ridiculous ROF or anything yet, but just want an overall tune-up. I currently run with 7.4v lipos, as I mainly use semi, but would running an 11.1v lipo increase cycling speed and improve trigger response?With regards to the barrel group; I have seen that Prometheus do a nice Krytac spec barrel, so I think I'll be getting that. First question: Is there any big advantage with r-hopping over my Maple Leaf setup that is worth the extra effort/expense? Secondly, is upgrading to a Prowin hop-up necessary over a Krytac's similarly rotary unit?In the gearbox, is there anything that needs to be done? I have seen an older video which shows that the gears should be pretty well shimmed OOTB and that the only real area to look at is the nozzle. I see that Prometheus also make a Krytac spec head and nozzle - is that a good buy? Should I worry about reshimming and correcting AOE? Would it be necessary to upgrade the gears and go further or should I see a significant improvement with the above upgrades alone? Thanks for your help guys!
  14. Sev

    TM MK23 gas question

    Cheers for the info. I'm aware of that issue with TM mags and the fix, and will do away with that valve if that happens. Good to know I can run the stronger gas though, cheers!
  15. Anyone here have or had any experience or issues running this sidearm on high-power gasses? I'm thinking that there shouldn't be any obvious problems seeing as there are minimal moving parts and the gas is just propellant, right? I'm currently running it on Abbey Predator Ultra and getting about 310fps on 0.2g. Would like that nearer 350fps as I have a TDC mod and am looking to use 0.36g bbs. I was thinking that Abbey Vertex gas could be the answer but don't want to break the gun.
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