SinisterWeasel
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Posts posted by SinisterWeasel
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Very often people will say using a heavier bb increases range which I am not disputing, but does anyone know of a decent comparison test for this (vid/review)? There are quite a few accuracy comparisons at the same distance but I haven't seen anything showing a comparison for max range so I am just curious how much difference it can make outside of anecdotal estimates.
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Seem a bit overkill in my opinion, if you need one playing airsoft to stop yourself knocking yourself out you probably should be wearing it everyday
Useful if you want to mount a camera but other than that I wish people would be more sparing with the military grade armor to stop a bb because they are always the ones who don't feel hits. I do sound like a bitter person when I read things back.
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The videos are quite helpful, it looks quite an interesting site. For those who don't use Facebook it shows several very dark rooms/buildings with all the windows boarded up - which I assume will remain the case so bring a torch. I don't have a torch mounted but I will make do with a handheld I suppose, although there is also an open outdoor section so it looks like a combo of very long and very short range game-play.
Def I will hopefully see you there, I am the ugly fellow with a scoped Aug wearing realtree camo (it's all I have back from my air rifle/falconry days).
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I see, those ones. They do another set, similar to smiths optics, review on Airsoftpeak didn't rate them, these have a side fan?
I found my rev turbos had some fogging issues on low setting but I did have a helmet on which I may need to cut a hole in the material near forehead...,
Was this the review you saw?
http://www.airsoftpeak.com/ballistic-goggle-updated-version-safety-goggle-black-p-14587.html
The tan colour seems to have better feedback:
http://www.airsoftpeak.com/ballistic-goggle-updated-version-safety-goggle-dark-earth-p-14588.html
However these aren't identical as mine have the fan at the top of the goggles, which makes a lot more sense so it clears both sides evenly.
By the way I did say £35 but you can get them cheaper if you don't mind waiting for them to be delivered from China, probably over £10 less. I wanted them for last weekend though and as I was slightly sceptical about them thought a UK seller was a wise idea in case I needed t return them.
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Unfortunately that website is blocked where I work so I have to use a proxy, I wasn't sure if the links would work(?)
The £10 is to reserve your place but it's actually £25 in total
"This booking is for 1�Walk On player�charged at �25 at Swindon Airsoft's�Badlands site.
Located at Abingdon Airfield, Honeybottom Lane Entrance, Abingdon, OX13 6BX.
Gates open at 08:30, game brief at 09:30, games start at 10:00, Finish at 16:00.
To secure your place a �10 deposit is required�and the remainder is to be paid on the day.- Site FPS limit is 340 FPS on a 0.20g BB�guns, 500 FPS for bolt action snipers only, no DMRs are allowed.
- Participant minimum age is 10 years old to play, accompanied by parent or guardian or nominated adult.
- Participants who are 17 years or under must wear full face masks.
- The minimum age of participants using pyrotechnics is 18 years."
I think it's a more urban outdoor type site but I am not really sure so I was just going to go and find out. The owner mentioned there were bunkers and so forth but also that it's a snipers paradise which implies it's not going to be a cqb site.
I will go either way but if anyone needs to know the details maybe just give them a call on 01793 435999
- DEF and Jedi_Master
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There was a chap at Warminster a week ago who had clearly modded the hell out of his AEG to make it as quiet as possible, it only made a dull thunk sound but I can't recall what it was. I think decibels makes a difference but it's also the tone, from that video the tone was a very distinctive AEG sound whereas a more muffled deeper tone like his seems to be more difficult to recognise.
Stealth is on my to-do list of mods for the future.
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Are they properly rated too?
I can't find what ballistic rating they which is annoying but they are but they are definitely a tougher polycabonate than my other rated goggles. I don't have any worries with them myself but I understand many people not wanting them without knowing the rating. Anecdotally though I can say I took several shots to the goggles no problem at close range and by snipers shooting 0.40 and it didn't leave a mark (I tested them myself before using them too).
Here's a video review:
Sunday was an incredibly humid and murky day so it was a great day to put them to the test especially as I was running around a great deal. The fan worked 90% well I would say although as they are so quiet I managed to accidentally switch the fan off and didn't realise until my goggles were steaming up. However even with the fan on the max setting I did get some fogging around the edges when I was particularly warm so they aren't a magic bullet, still a 100X improvement on my others though.
I did find that I had to blow on the fan to get it moving the first time, possibly as they are new but something to look out for and probably a sign of the lesser quality than ESS, but at about a 1/3 of the price I expected some compromise.
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Some sites are a little bit more relaxed. Especially if you are a regular. My g&g m4 is always 315-322. Don't know why it changes and because it's never more than 322 I have never really thought about it.
Now what I am about to say may be controversial but hay ho, if you are shooting 355 fps try increasing you hop to its max. I know it will mean endlessly fiddling with it to get it right again and I know it's a bit of a cheat. But under 350 is under.
Funnily enough I had accidentally left my hop up on maximum as I had previously been checking it was lined up Ok and it only chronoed at 160fps with 0.25's. I can't remember the exact number but there was a 100fps difference between max and the bbs were flying level, which does mock the process somewhat.
Maybe someone could bring out a chronograph calibrator of some kind. Like a bolt gun they use to snuff out cattle and consistent to 1fps. Or perhaps a more intelligent and thought out idea.
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Do you know how a chronograph works?
It measures the time taken for a projectile to pass through two separated beams of light. Now, in general terms any measurement of velocity calculated from travel time will be more accurate if it's measured over the greatest distance possible. "Proper" shooting chronos are relatively large for this exact reason. The smaller the unit is the better the quality of electronics needs to be to provide sufficient resolution to provide an accurate result. The higher the quality of electronics used the higher the price point tends to be so take for example the average Xcortech chrono. It's sub £100 and it's quite small so firstly you need to take into account that the measurement distance is quite short and that even taking into account the mass buying power and relatively low cost of electronics, the guts are not going to be precision instruments. Add to this the effects that ambient lighting can have on the sensors and you are piling inaccuracy on inaccuracy. On top of all that most places don't know how to spell calibration let alone actually have it carried out on a regular basis.
Now, in your example it's perfectly possible that the chrono your brother normally uses at his regular site reads low and that the sites chrono at your regular site reads high, all within a sensible tolerance on their own, but when you combine the tolerances they result in your brothers "perfectly fine normally" gun being over the site limit. That's the main reason I never try and get my guns right up to the limit allowable on site, I like to know I've got a bit of leeway.
Of course if you ever find yourself at the Malls with their regularly calibrated Skan chrono, if they say your gun is over, then it's over.
I do understand how they work but my frustration is that a chronograph that is mathematically wrong doesn't actually work and if they are assumed to be X% wrong then you should be allowed the same percentage over the given limit. They are performing a simple mathematical calculation and shot-to-shot are consistent, it's just the inconsistency between manufacturers that is the issue. If it wasn't precise due to the reasons you give then surely you would expect the same gun to be giving highly varied results on the same chrono in different conditions? I haven't experienced this but maybe others have?
As I said I am just ranting
, partly because he couldn't use the £70 scope he was eager to test for the first time (which I paid half for). Simple solution is just keep your gun around 330-340 like mine already is but he didn't want to swap the spring out for the third time when he had already been given the green light.Sort it out world, you sod.
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Inconsistent chronos are really starting to annoy me and I can't understand how something so simple can so drastically different site to site. My own gun has been chronoed at 20fps different between one site and the next although fortunately always below 350, which is worrying as I intended to increase the fps. Once it was over but they changed the battery in the chrono and it was fine again.
My brother travelled for six hours to see me this weekend, mostly to play airsoft but he couldn't use his own gun as it chronoed at 355-360 but he was able to play a game last week with no problems.
Just a bit of a rant as this doesn't need to be a problem...
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To get the gearbox out.
Take out the backplate, Then slacken or remove the bolt nearest the motor. You can also slacken but NOT remove the one at the mag release.
Work with the gun upside down.
Then take 2 fingers and prize the shell apart near the motor while gently pulling the box back. It should just come out without any resistance.
To get it back in it's the same in reverse.
Work with the gun upside down, Slide the box in till it starts resisting then prize the shell and it should just fall into place.
Once it's back together do a few checks.
Look in the ejection port, The top of the gearbox has a slide on retainer that the baffles sit on, Make sure that retainer is in the correct position on the box, and that it is up tight to the plastic nub in the top of the shell.
Check the wires to make sure there free and not trapped in the motor area.
Drop in the back plate and put the screws in finger tight, Then tighten the bolts, Then finish tighten the screws.
Augs are funny guns, not at all like most systems. Unless you have a stock TM you tend to find people have modified at least 1 part of it. It's one of the best bits about the gun. Loads of space to allow you to really make the insides do what you want them to do.
For the hop pin, you need to have a good look at the unit, and work out if it's the arm, pin or mount that are allowing the movement.
If it's the arm you might be able to shim it, If it's the pin replace the pin, if it's the mount you can either try and fix it, Enlarge the holes and use a larger pin, or pick up a new hop.
The most promising hops look to be the metal CNC ones. I haven't fully researched them yet but there available and should be well toleranced.
http://begadishop.eu/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=307_523_74&products_id=8095
Getting the gearbox out wasn't the issue, just that now it is back in I didn't notice any of the wobble or movement issue so I left it be. Maybe it is something that happens over time?
The tape has fixed the arm, it was the pushing in of the pin that took the arm with it so it was ever so slightly (maybe 1/2 mm) off centre as it had a tiny bit of wiggle room. It has taken a lot of tinkering to get the hop up to remain consistent so I probably will spend the little extra to replace it with the metal one to avoid the issues next time I have to swap the bucking. Whilst I do I may as well get the new cyclinder head and piston because they are quite cheap and if I am going to have to open the gearbox to swap springs I would like to make it worth while because I find putting it back together quite frustrating, mostly due to the trigger. Even if I just keep them on standby until the current ones break.
Can you recommend the best combo to maximise consistency and ideally reduce noise too? If it is lighter and improves ROF I am happy with that but I am not modding towards ROF.
This is what I would be getting if left to my own devices from the website you linked to:
http://begadishop.eu/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=9170
http://begadishop.eu/catalog/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=&products_id=9672
http://begadishop.eu/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=307_523_444&products_id=9333
Spring guide etc I have no idea...there are so many different things to choose!
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I have just bought a pair of cheaper ESS copies which on first inspection seem rather good. Very nice carry case, very clear lenses (one clear one sunglasses) with no micro scratches and they are comfy too. The fan also has two power settings so you can leave the minimum setting running all day and they are so quiet I have to look at the fan to check if it's on (slight purr on the max setting).
However I haven't used them at a game but I will on Sunday and will let you know how they perform. They were £35 so it's not the end of the world if they disappoint.
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Thanks again for all your help.
I spent some time looking at everything and I have finally cracked it I think. I managed to fix the feeding issue (surprisingly) by cutting up an aluminium can and using double sided tape to stick two rectangles in the magwell to block the gaps. Then I just put the mag in and pulled the trigger many times until the aluminium was bent in the right places for the trigger to still work smoothly and that's it, bit of a bodge perhaps but it does the job for now. I have a more permanent idea using cloth/leather so it has enough flex for the trigger.
I also added more padding to the outer barrel so it cannot wobble as I think my issue was there was still a little bit of movement possible which could rotate the hop up chamber and barrel. However there was still a slight spin to the right when I tested it and I then wondered if it was the hop up arm itself, so I added a loop of tape around the centre to make it more secure and perfectly aligned and bingo, shooting consistent now. I think the issue was that there was a tiny bit of movement on the arm which was pushed slightly off centre when replacing the pin.
I didn't actually bother adding any padding to the butt plate because everything was already rock solid and there was no movement at all, I physically couldn't make the gearbox go further forward. I don't know if this is just due to the many small differences between the various AUGs or I am missing something.
FYI I also added an o-ring to the back of the hop up thinking this would improve the seal. It certainly made everything a tighter fit but from what I could tell at short range it had a very negative effect, do not make my mistake.
Looking forward to seeing how things go this Sunday, thanks for the photos of the safety pin I will hopefully buy a file and get cracking on that shortly.
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Honest answer is there isn't a perfect solution. You can mitigate it with foam padding on the inside of the magwell. You just double sided tape it in place the same way you do the backplate. And it is possible to make a magwell skirt I have not tried this myself yet so I don't know how well it works.
The design of the trigger prevents any fixes been perfect. That skirt looks like the best overall option if you can get the shape correct.
If you are after range then the Aug is a reasonable base gun. Get the FPS right and constant then have a good look round the gun for what you really want and need to upgrade.
The parts I've done myself are mostly gearbox parts.
Bushings, Spring guide, Cylinder, Cylinder head and piston head. Mosfet. And a gearbox shim. These parts are need only parts. You shouldn't be upgrading without a need for the upgrade, If the FPS is right and the box is smooth then leave it alone for a bit.
I've added a 6.03 barrel but it doesn't increase accuracy or range with mine. Bucking and nub.
I've ground the safety bar to add in a single fire only option. This is a great upgrade. It gives a 3rd position on the safety bar that catches the trigger plate. You cut a small chunk out of the bar, then add a V notch.
You just need to grind the plastic safety bar to catch the trigger on a half pull, then make a V notch in the bar so it will lock on the metal shim in that location. Takes about 30 mins to make the modification with a small V file and a scalpel. You take off the upper receiver, pull the trigger to dry fire a single shot and mark it on the trigger plate then release. This gives you the measurement for the amount of material to remove from the safety bar. You cut a chunk out of the upper side left of the bar the same depth as the measurement, put the bar back in and move it while pulling the trigger to find where the bar needs to sit in the hole. Then you mark the point where the metal retainer clips dent is sitting and file the V at that point on the safety bar. When you put the bar back in you will have a new locking point on the safety that only allows single fire, and you still have single and full auto in the original position.
The other upgrade I plan to do is remove the ejection port baffles from the top of the gearbox, and add in another rubber cover. It'll help stop dirt going into the gun, and it'll close that hole to make it a bit quieter. You could even leave the baffles in place and just add the rubber gromet for weather sealing.
My body has been fully lined with foam to reduce noise, and once I remove the top baffles I'll pack out the top of the box as well. My aim is for a quiet gun, I play woodland but it's a site where been on a path is death. You have to be hidden, and stay hidden to survive.
I will have a read through the thread you linked to this afternoon and then see what I can do about the loose bb issue.
Overall I don't have any desire to go for an increased rate of fire so will just leave everything in the gearbox alone for now until something breaks (the gearbox was re-shimmed and I needed a lower power spring but that's it), but did you see a notable increase in consistency after changing the piston and piston head? My initial impression of the stock ones were that they looked pretty cheap and breakable so I expect them to be the first things I would change.
I played a game yesterday and by midday my shots were swinging right again, this evening I will see if the bucking has managed to rotate and as I bought a new bucking will swap it over. Might need a bit of insulating tape to keep it steady and along with tightening the body/gearbox that should hopefully do the trick.
Modding the safety is something I have already planned to do this weekend although I probably got the idea from you from another thread, I will be borrowing a Dremel. I am not sure what a baffle is i'm afraid although I may buy some soundproofing material one day and go crazy with it as a bit of stealth wouldn't hurt.
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Aug barrels are 509mm long, assuming it's the standard length; same as M16s.
Yes you are right and I mistakenly took the 450mm figure from here:
http://airsoftpro.cz/eshop/product_info.php?cPath=55_73&products_id=2462
I removed the barrel and measured it - 509mm
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Before you go upgrade happy just have a check of the amount of play on the upper receiver.
If you can rotate the upper in the plastic shell by a few degrees then that could be what is causing the BB's to fly off.
I also think you may have got some lube onto the hop at some point. Generally my aug's hop is reasonably stiff to rotate, grips well, and doesn't move in usage. If yours is spinning then it could well have caught some silicone overspray. Strip it, wash it in soapy water and let it air dry. While you have it off you may as well add a new bucking. The bucking needs to go on either dry or with the smallest amount of lube possible. You then cut the bucking so the ring sits tight to the end of the bucking but doesn't cover the inner barrel cutout, You then use some PTFE pipe sealing tape and just put a tight few loops on the bucking to help the airseal.
http://s269.photobucket.com/user/manoyelcid/media/hop11.jpg.html
The inner barrel on the JG is pretty reasonable, It's not going to be causing the BB's to fly to the sides provided it is straight, The MB prometheus II 6.03 509mm is the standard length replacement for a regular a1 a2 a3 aug If you have a shorty then you will need a different length, I've got one on mine. Truth be told the difference in accuracy is negligible. And since your BB's are flying out to either side then I don't think the inner barrel is the problem. You might want to add an o-ring to the end of the inner barrel to remove any side to side play or you could wrap a few loops of PTFE tape on it just to make sure it's not wobbling about.
The play on the upper receiver can be sorted with some thin foam and double sided tape. Use decent double sided tape like the stuff Halfords sell for sticking on number plates. And cut a square of sponge cleaning cloth. Stick the sponge with the tape to the inside of the backplate where the top of the gearbox sits. It'll push the box forward and that give you a better airseal, and pushes the upper receiver forward slightly. This makes the body pin lock a lot tighter, and removes most of the wobble and twist from the main body. IT will only need 1 layer of foam 2-3mm's thick. Any more you will stress the back plate mounts.
Like this but less ghetto. And make sure you don't cover the plates contact points on the body or you will move the plate back rather than push the gearbox forward.
http://s269.photobucket.com/user/manoyelcid/media/02-1.jpg.html
http://www.halfords.com/motoring/paints-body-repair/adhesives/halfords--double-sided-tape--hst109
Barrel link
http://www.patrolbase.co.uk/airsoft/madbull-509-barrel.htm#.VrukseaQhEA
Augs are notorious for the airseal nozzle and aftermarket hops. The people that upgrade tend to post the most about these 2 components and how badly they can sometimes match up. If you are getting a good airseal, and you can clean and get the hop to work and lock well then don't upgrade it. You may create more problems than you solve. It is also important that if you do upgrade the air nozzle you get the Aug one, and you get the aug one that is the correct length for your manufactured gun. It is not the same as other gun models. TM, JG, CA all have slightly different lengths then the aftermarket ones can vary as well.. The hop and airseal is a mine field.
These are all aug nozzles by different companies!
http://s1189.photobucket.com/user/Tackett1980/media/8f7a1230.jpg.html
Pretty much the rest of the gearbox bar the contacts is standard v3.
Thanks for all the good tips that's really helpful and I will definitely try the foam idea as I have currently bodged it with cloth-like tape just to stop it twisting but this doesn't tighten anything. As it happens I spent a few hours re-doing and adding to all the little bits and bobs with tape and o-rings to prevent barrel wobble and vibration. I did also take the hop up apart and cleaned the bucking as you were right it was indeed greasy and it wasn't quite level so I cleaned the whole area with alcohol as well, but I will try adding some tape for the seal too.
Initial tests show a big improvement although there are still quite a few inconsistent shots, I tend to see a pattern where I will put 2-3 bbs ontop of each other then the same again but 1-2" away at only 15 yards or so. At long range I can't see any left/right spin (I can fire over the fence into a closed industrial estate but not use a target). I will add some more bodges to increase air seal and see how that goes although I am still keen on trying a new barrel and different bucking to try and improve things further. This is partly because most of the games around me are quite open woodland so range is king as well as just enjoying the challenge and physics behind it all.
One other thing you might be able to help with is the bb feeding issue where bbs can get loose inside the casing. They are easy to get out again but it's a bit annoying, what's the best fix for this?
Bit geeky but I have been discussing the physics behind barrels and thought about the idea of adding rails inside to stabilise the cushion of air. It turns out this already exists in the falcon barrels so I am possibly going to test one out.
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Update already, I believe I would need a 450mm barrel and I can't actually see a prometheus in this size or anything else I have heard of.
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I am going to buy a new barrel and hop up setup asap but any advice would be great to make sure I don't spend a lot of money for either inferior or just incompatible parts. My current stock setup is too inconsistent (left and right curving) as well as the hop loosening itself after firing on full auto (I have mostly fixed this but I don't trust it).
So far I think my top choice for a barrel is Prometheus based on various things I have read but I am also curious about the Miracle barrel. The Prometheus suggests it has a narrow hop window though, is this really an issue?
For a hop up I am not sure as the opinions are so varied, from a firefly, maple leaf and so forth which has left me a little confused although generally people lean towards an R hop being the best but very awkward to get right. Due to my inexperience I would rather go for a flat hop or something less dependent on me not being incompetent.
Thanks for any and all suggestions.
(P.S. Can anyone clarify if the JG Aug is compatible with Prowin M4 hop ups? http://www.evike.com/products/40058/)
BB weight vs distance - comparison proof?
in General Help
Posted
Cheers for all the helpful replies. I will look at testing some heavier bbs I think as I have mostly been using 0.25's as they are always available where I play, but I also did an accuracy comparison between 0.28 bb bastards and 0.25 blasters and got a noticeable better grouping with the blasters at just 12 metres or so. I will give some 0.30-0.40's a whirl and maybe write up a review, although my hunch is that brand differences are going to make as bigger difference so I will make sure they are all the same.
(p.s. I cut some of the bb bastards in half and they have quite large air bubbles which are mostly centralised - but not quite - whereas the blasters had very tiny holes at random)