UhhNoggy Posted March 19, 2018 Share Posted March 19, 2018 Does anyone know what size bushings are in the Cyma CM.517? I've tried googling but all the complete Cyma V2 gearbox's I find don't say the size of bushing just the material. If no-one knows how would I measure them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Sitting Duck Posted March 19, 2018 Supporters Share Posted March 19, 2018 8mm cross type why do you need to know/change them ??? They are fine as they are - robust bushings if you change gears, you can only fit the fastest @ 16:1 in there unless you do some slight modification (cut away a bit of the arc shape re-enforcement on numerous boxes) careful modding with a dremmel & say a couple of 20p size cutting discs.... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AE29OdDaRHg Or taking a sledgehammer to crack a walnut method... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ZMLjBSNFu4 Spur gear "might" be a bit tight on some chunkier gear sets but a 8mm bearing on top of spur should give you just enough free space They are fine as they are - except for a possible tight spur gear on faster sets (1 x 8mm bearing will suffice) Gears are strong but bevel is a bit rough on meshing with most motors/pinions hence if you can't find a nice bevel to mesh well will motor/pinion then perhaps change the set if you are really fussed unless you know what you are doing, I'd use the gun for what it is sinking a load of money into a CM517 is not perhaps the wisest of ideas do-able but still will be a £70 gun If you enlighten us what your intentions are and what fps the gun is atm then I can help you avoid spending too much money on this cheapo gun (it's a good cheapo gun, but still a cheapo gun - so avoid going too nutz) Some Cyma v2's like MP5 boxes ofa while back were 7mm & not re-enforced V3 Cyma's might still be 7mm Lately though the CM515 & 517's are 8mm cross type on re-enforced M4 V2's (also slightly slightly different 8mm v2 M4 boxes used in P&J & higher metal M4 Cyma's) But 8mm cross bushing is the answer to your question in your 517 http://translate.google.co.uk/translate?hl=en&sl=fr&u=http://www.france-airsoft.fr/forum/index.php%3Fshowtopic%3D198758&prev=search To get the box out is a bit of challenge.... worth filing of these two stupid lugs just a bit to help remove/refit box (Why they cast/put these extra lugs on there is beyond me) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UhhNoggy Posted March 19, 2018 Author Share Posted March 19, 2018 The fps is 346 and the site limit is 350 so I'm happy with fps but I have found myself playing more semi than full auto. I was looking to put a high torque motor with a 12:1 gearset, shimming the new gears and using 8mm bearing bushings all SHS parts, my aim is just to achieve a faster trigger response while using semi auto, without looking into a Spectre (like you said I can fill the entire gun with new internals but it's still a £70 gun) The reason I'm happy to put a little money into the gun is because I doubt I can convince the wife to let me buy a £300 Ares or TM Hope this helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Sitting Duck Posted March 19, 2018 Supporters Share Posted March 19, 2018 13 hours ago, UhhNoggy said: I was looking at putting 8mm bearing bushings in and then fitting a shs 12:1 gearset in....is this not possible? Leave bushings - especially under spur gear You have to grind away a bit on the arc to fit 14, 13, 12:1 gears in there the inner teeth on the higher speed spur gear grind on the arc of side of gearbox watch the two youtube vids I linked to not just Cyma but many boxes that are re-enforced at the rear you need to do this not hard, just more of a pain tbh on some Cyma, D-Boys, APS, some JG's I think.... they have this ARC thingy that gets in way SRC have re-enforcement but not all re-enforced boxes have this protruding arc that impedes on larger inner row of teeth from spur gear meshing to bevel gear Edit: my bad, it is the inner ring of teeth that becomes larger & rubs on arc This is the teeth that meshes to sector from spur not bevel gear (outer lower teeth) Soz, you remove the arc as the spur's to sector teeth rub on arc (not bevel as I originally said) Other boxes, G&P, G&G, ICS (split box), VFC are not re-enforced (so higher speed gears drop straight in) If you don't grind away the extra material - then the lowest you can go is 16:1 (which is really 17.25:1 ratio in fact so less than 8% increase in speed to 18.65:1) if you leave the stuff as, you could put a shs ht motor (cyma motor is slow 28tpa) replace the tamiya with deans and you should be nearing say 19rps avoid a high speed motor, the shs or RA motor will do fine is the gun UK spec under 350fps ??? Only coz if it is 400fps you can use a metal rack piston, remove heavy spacer & correct AoE plus SS a couple of teeth to bring her down to 350fps (I've done that to hit 340fps on original spring) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UhhNoggy Posted March 19, 2018 Author Share Posted March 19, 2018 I'm not quite sure with the UK spec thing you said, I bought it from patrol base and I'm just stating what they said (don't have a chrono) Im not sure if you saw the edited post but RoF isn't a priority the only reason I'm thinking 12:1 is for a faster trigger response. You have convinced me to leave the bushings alone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Sitting Duck Posted March 19, 2018 Supporters Share Posted March 19, 2018 39 minutes ago, UhhNoggy said: I was looking to put a high torque motor with a 12:1 gearset, shimming the new gears and using 8mm bearing bushings all SHS parts, my aim is just to achieve a faster trigger response while using semi auto, without looking into a Spectre (like you said I can fill the entire gun with new internals but it's still a £70 gun) The reason I'm happy to put a little money into the gun is because I doubt I can convince the wife to let me buy a £300 Ares or TM Hope this helps Ahh OK, the gun is UK spec Drop in a SHS RA HT motor... https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/ra-high-torque-motor-long (move ya ar$e as they do sell out and take 2/3 weeks to restock) Chuck that in there, fingers crossed the motor height will roughly ok add a small bit of grease to new motor pinion if possible (might need to adjust it a smidge but should be sort of ok) Really you should check/adjust shimming blah blah blah... But that will do you proud..... In reality you should rip box open do AoE, check shims and stuff but you "could" just drop that in as is for a while.... 6/12 months later then service and tweak stuff inside Or if guns busts sooner rather than later Or chuck the gun and buy better (it's a toss up when to keep throwing money into this gun or just move up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Sitting Duck Posted March 19, 2018 Supporters Share Posted March 19, 2018 18 minutes ago, UhhNoggy said: I'm not quite sure with the UK spec thing you said, I bought it from patrol base and I'm just stating what they said (don't have a chrono) Im not sure if you saw the edited post but RoF isn't a priority the only reason I'm thinking 12:1 is for a faster trigger response. You have convinced me to leave the bushings alone Drop the better motor in there if you want a bit more zest should go from say 12 to about 18rps and change to deans than tamiya that connector will also give you 1rps to 1.5rps increase too Look if gun busts, you can fix it cheaply or cut your losses it is easy to fix up, the box is sound (bit qwirky v2 box with a v3 spring guide etc...) but it is a strong box, the receiver is a bit brittle in cold weather a cheapo clone of a G&G Raider - it s a medium length Raider 300mm barrel (G&G do a short 233 or long 357 - should have done a 300mm medium like cyma imho) the receiver is a bit weak, the buffer tube is plastic, the mag catch is plastic so it isn't as robust as G&G receiver but if you are careful it should last if it busts badly, you lost little and take new motor into next gun you could replace loads of bits if you wish but just keep it sensible than sink another £75/£100 into it look into deans & motor google youtube for deans connectors tweaks CUT ONE WIRE AT A TIME !!!! (cut, fit shrink tube, solder, insulate & move on) A short by cutting two wires together at battery will make you $HIT YOURSELF !!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UhhNoggy Posted March 19, 2018 Author Share Posted March 19, 2018 8 minutes ago, Sitting Duck said: Drop the better motor in there if you want a bit more zest should go from say 12 to about 18rps and change to deans than tamiya that connector will also give you 1rps to 1.5rps increase too Look if gun busts, you can fix it cheaply or cut your losses it is easy to fix up, the box is sound (bit qwirky v2 box with a v3 spring guide etc...) but it is a strong box, the receiver is a bit brittle in cold weather a cheapo clone of a G&G Raider - it s a medium length Raider 300mm barrel (G&G do a short 233 or long 357 - should have done a 300mm medium like cyma imho) the receiver is a bit weak, the buffer tube is plastic, the mag catch is plastic so it isn't as robust as G&G receiver but if you are careful it should last if it busts badly, you lost little and take new motor into next gun you could replace loads of bits if you wish but just keep it sensible than sink another £75/£100 into it look into deans & motor google youtube for deans connectors tweaks CUT ONE WIRE AT A TIME !!!! A short by cutting two wires together at battery will make you $HIT YOURSELF !!!! Well that's fine by me! I'll go for the HT motor and yea I'll most probably get some deans connectors aswel. Thanks for the help!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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