Iceni Posted January 28, 2018 Share Posted January 28, 2018 I've just ordered one of these for my AUG and wonder if any forum users have an option on them. I was using a homemade non braking fet, but it died a death when I plugged a 11.1 25c into it. The gun itself was shooting well on the battery but the fet started to leak voltage and when I came off the trigger the gun was still running at about 1 rps. I pulled the battery and no damage was done to box or motor. In addition to the fet I've picked up a new motor, ASG infinity U-3500 CNC. They didn't have the 3000 model in stock as I thought it would be a better fit for the gun. The gun currently has an SHS high speed, and once I've done the wiring I should be able to swap between them depending on the day in a few minutes without a problem. The gun already has a split in the loom at the motor that operates in standard polarity on deans. Am I right in thinking this fet is going to cut out before my batteries go too low, and it will warn me about overheating ect. Also what ampage fuse should I put in line with it. I'll pick up an automotive blade fuse holder so I should be able to get any fuse from 1 to 50amps. It's going to be the AGS U3500 pulling a M100 spring on a full piston stroke on 7.4 30c. I can upgrade back to the SHS if I want more RPS again. The gun is setup to be quiet, and the slower ASG might just bring it down a little more (that's what I'm hoping anyway). If It doesn't do what I want I have a decent spare motor for the grab bag. Am I also best to pull the AR latch and use active braking, or do I keep the AR latch and turn off the AB feature. The fitting looks to be pretty simple, I already have the deans on my motors, I'll make a battery extension to the fet (deans to deans), And just solder both trigger wires directly onto the lower contacts. So It should be an hours work tops. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hangtight Posted January 28, 2018 Share Posted January 28, 2018 Keep the ARL, and only use the AB if you get overspin, which shouldn't be a problem on 7.4v. The ASG motors are excellent. Assuming you're running standard gearing then you should get around 20rps on 7.4v and draw around 20A continuous, less if you build for low friction. A 25-30A fuse should be fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iceni Posted January 28, 2018 Author Share Posted January 28, 2018 Spot on TY, I'll drop a multimeter on it when I get the unit tuesday and check the Amp draw as well just to be on the safe side. 20 RPS is over what I was getting with the stock motor (15-18 jg), With the shs it's a little higher but I didn't bother to chrono that motor for RPS I would imagine it was in the region of 25. 20 should put me right where I want the gun to be, 5-7 seconds on full auto for a full mid cap. With the shs I feel like I can't burst full auto so much so it limits me if we have to do defence missions, I'm a slow mag changer as well so that doesn't help either! Single shot on the 11.1 was double tapping so If I wanted to run 11.1 I would need the AB on I think. But having seen the RPS I don't think the Aug is the gun to be running 11.1 on (it was like a sewing machine). I'd want an auto feeding drum mag on a shorter format, MP5 perhaps. My build is sort of in the higher middle for friction, I have bushings rather than bearings, And while my shimming is good I use a heavy pure moly grease that reduces a lot of noise but is sticky on the gears and adds a lot of spin weight to them. It's one of the tradeoffs I was happy making since the aug box seems so noisy to the shooter, It's the main reason I decided to go low noise in the first place! And it's leading towards a gun that is really hard to locate when you are been shot at by it. It's quiet, and the noises it makes are mushy and low in pitch, so you get no real bearing for where I'm shooting from. I can even shoot it in the bedroom and the missus downstairs can't tell. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iceni Posted January 31, 2018 Author Share Posted January 31, 2018 Just thought I'd update this, The fet and motor came this morning, I've fitted it this evening. There is JUST and I mean Just enough room in an AUG for the unit alone, There is no space on the inside of the dividing plate for a fuse, And the batteries I use prevents using any of the space in the battery compartment. So for the minute it will have to be fuse free. Fitting was easy, Simple deans to deans soldering, and a pair of lightweight wires for the trigger. The unit shipped in AB/7.4 lipo protect configuration. Resetting it to non-AB/7.4 took seconds. However no manual or setting information was provided with the unit. The manual is on gates website in the downloads section. Settings are stored and you can disconnect and reconnect the battery without a problem or the settings having to be restored. The motor has gone straight into the V3 shell. No problems, It did need winding in a touch more then the SHS high speed. Connection points are soldered, And the motor is running well with no mesh issues. One thing to note about that particular motor (ASG U-35000) it seems to run very cool. Much cooler than the shs. After shooting the box full auto for several 2-3 second bursts the motor was only warm. Unlike the shs which would have been very hot. It came with a very nice pinion gear that has extra fluting running out of the gear teeth. RPS wise it doesn't seem a great deal slower than the SHS pulling an M100. I'll chrono it at when I get chance and see what the real RPS is. Trigger response with a 7.4 30c is snappy, Just as good as the SHS, And there is absolutely no sign of any contact arc. Hopefully I get to go shooting at the weekend and give it a proper test, but so far I'm very happy with both motor and Fet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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