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What have you made?

A quick and nasty print to test fitment - 0.30 layer height (accidentally left the upper and lower skin thickness at 0.12 which also doesn't help) and a very low infill leaving a rough finish. Fitment was damned near perfect - just needed the hinge holes opening up a little and a relief hole drilled for the gearbox screw that protrudes a little.

View attachment 77720

Test print was done in two halves then glued - I'm considering creating a channel for a bent steel rod to be sandwiched between the halves for reinforcement before epoxying them together. The final print would be done at 100% infill with a much smaller layer height (around 0.12mm) to smooth things out. Haven't worked out the rear (sliding) bit yet - probably an aluminium tube and 3D printed bushing and stock pad. I'll probably not bother with a sprung button mechanism, rather glue the metal button in place and have it non-folding.

View attachment 77721  View attachment 77723

Real Steel:

View attachment 77724

Yes, it's ugly. But I like it. Very popular with French and German Police forces - they also use them on MP5s and I've never seen one on an Airsoft gun.

 
A quick and nasty print to test fitment - 0.30 layer height (accidentally left the upper and lower skin thickness at 0.12 which also doesn't help) and a very low infill leaving a rough finish. Fitment was damned near perfect - just needed the hinge holes opening up a little and a relief hole drilled for the gearbox screw that protrudes a little.

View attachment 77720

Test print was done in two halves then glued - I'm considering creating a channel for a bent steel rod to be sandwiched between the halves for reinforcement before epoxying them together. The final print would be done at 100% infill with a much smaller layer height (around 0.12mm) to smooth things out. Haven't worked out the rear (sliding) bit yet - probably an aluminium tube and 3D printed bushing and stock pad. I'll probably not bother with a sprung button mechanism, rather glue the metal button in place and have it non-folding.

View attachment 77721  View attachment 77723

Real Steel:

View attachment 77724

Yes, it's ugly. But I like it. Very popular with French and German Police forces - they also use them on MP5s and I've never seen one on an Airsoft gun.
I like it. ?

It's better than the semi hard on stock lol ?

 
I made a stock for my shotgun using gaffa tape, a cut up bottle of cleaning fluid and the dream it will need to survive the gun bag on my next day out.

The reason? Well playing a game with limits and rules i am not allowed stockless shotguns or rather 'tactical' shotguns, (but then everything is tactical....) so a plan was formed and with a causual glance it looks ok. 

(Will throw a pic up later)

My collection of handguards for the mp5. Once I'd done one, I just had to do more!

View attachment 77735
Rude not to once you have the know how, they no doubt look great on pew given how fab they look off.

 
i really wish i had some wip photos for you all as well.

Cut the bottle neck of your choosen cleaning fluid bottle, hot glue gun in place once fit is 'good' - use addition cleaning bottles as required to achieve fit, add gafa tape  by the roll to ensure there is a prayer it will survive riggers of transport, wrap in half a roll of 'camo' tape and paint with my kids paints, add coats until stays dark if not black.....

also yes i need to fix/cover/remove the remaining blue but gods damn that stuff is tough to shift from the rubber grip.

View attachment 77833

View attachment 77834

 
Not speedsoft....honestly!

I've been modelling a real steel B&T Visor/Gas Mask Stock for a G36 using pictures as a reference.

View attachment 77699

Not sure if I'll actually make this one (although it's dimensionally accurate to TM spec guns), but it's been fun to model nonetheless.

RS references:

View attachment 77700View attachment 77701
There is a point often missed that real life weapon design is based on function. Stocks traditionally are as close as possible to being aligned with the barrel straight from front to back due to the physics of firearms and the force of recoil.

They have the steadying function of a solid hold to assist in accuracy and in minimising lift and keeping the barrel on target.  They also contribute to the ergonomics of the weapon.

There is always a compromise between these and other functions.

In gameplay as opposed to real firearms the physics differ, but part of the appeal is to look like real firearms so you get the variations between speedsoft ergonimics and skirmishing looks.

In real firearms technology changes, with various calibers and propellant mixes plus other elements of the firearms design.

Thus you get oddities like dropped stocks appearing in real firearms as the balance of physics and ergonomics changes 

 
There is a point often missed that real life weapon design is based on function. Stocks traditionally are as close as possible to being aligned with the barrel straight from front to back due to the physics of firearms and the force of recoil.

They have the steadying function of a solid hold to assist in accuracy and in minimising lift and keeping the barrel on target.  They also contribute to the ergonomics of the weapon.

There is always a compromise between these and other functions.

In gameplay as opposed to real firearms the physics differ, but part of the appeal is to look like real firearms so you get the variations between speedsoft ergonimics and skirmishing looks.

In real firearms technology changes, with various calibers and propellant mixes plus other elements of the firearms design.

Thus you get oddities like dropped stocks appearing in real firearms as the balance of physics and ergonomics changes 
K

 
Stocks like that exist to get under big fat bullet resistant face shields/visors, nothing more needs saying really.  French and German police specifically use such setups a fair bit.

 
There is a point often missed that real life weapon design is based on function. Stocks traditionally are as close as possible to being aligned with the barrel straight from front to back due to the physics of firearms and the force of re.... [Snip]


Um..ok...

Meanwhile - In other news:

Now printing it 'properly' at 100% infill, with a channel for a 5mm steel rod to be glued within it. Each half will take 14 hours to print and the whole thing will be 3D printed (two sides and the butt pad as a separate print) with the stock 'fixed' in position.

View attachment 77848 View attachment 77849

I'll be hitting it with filler primer and sanding it to smooth out the layer lines, then spray it with matte black paint.

If anyone has any ideas on how to try replicate that 'moulded plastic roughness' surface finish that you get on polymer bodied guns, it would be much appreciated.

Had a friend print out the split slide model I modified. Going to be interesting to see how well it actually works. Got one made with the pic rail and one without just incase I feel like changing it over

View attachment 77836


They look very cool. I'll be interested to hear how they perform.

 
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17 Hours later, I have half a stock:

View attachment 77863

Print came out really nice though. Other half has just started

I'm spending so much time printing stuff now (airsoft isn't my only hobby) that I'm seriously toying with the idea of buying (or even building) another printer. I'm really tempted to go down the Voron route for high-speed printing goodness.

 
17 Hours later, I have half a stock:

View attachment 77863

Print came out really nice though. Other half has just started

I'm spending so much time printing stuff now (airsoft isn't my only hobby) that I'm seriously toying with the idea of buying (or even building) another printer. I'm really tempted to go down the Voron route for high-speed printing goodness.
Hi?

Would your machine be able to make the plastic component from a specna arms sae-05

charging handle? 

?

Regards 

 
Hi?

Would your machine be able to make the plastic component from a specna arms sae-05

charging handle? 

?

Regards 


Probably.

Is that the bit that links onto the metal handle that flicks the dust cover open?

View attachment 77875

I have a Specna Edge down my shed to take measurements from if you need something knocked up and printed.

 
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Probably.

Is that the bit that links onto the metal handle that flicks the dust cover open?

I have a Specna Edge down my shed to take measurements from if you need something knocked up and printed.
Yeah that's the part.have tried to get one but no luck. Have even purchased couple of complete handles for the plastic arm but it seems very specific for the e-05.

But yeah that would be great if you would be so kind?

Regards 

 
Yeah that's the part.have tried to get one but no luck. Have even purchased couple of complete handles for the plastic arm but it seems very specific for the e-05.

But yeah that would be great if you would be so kind?

Regards 


Sure.

Gimme a day or two and I'll see what I can do for you.

 
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