TM HighCycle AUG - Trigger not functioning correctly when fully assembled

[DrAlexanderTobacco]

Hi chaps,

Got an interesting one for you. It's hard to troubleshoot owing to the nature of the problem.

When fully assembled my HiCycle will fire, but I have to press extremely hard on the trigger.

Originally I suspected corrosion on the trigger contacts after a rainy day, but the GB fires fine when out of the AUG body. When the GB is *inside* the body, without being reassembled (front end off, back plate unscrewed, takedown pin out) the trigger works fine.

Reassembled, the problem returns. Disassembling it to its original state, the problem disappears after I shake the gun a little. So my thoughts are that the trigger bar might possibly be getting caught on something but it's really difficult to figure out where! I'm going to upload a video so you can roughly see how I have to press hard. Any tips or suggestions would be helpful, cheers!

Kind regards

Update: With the front-end off, if I point the AUG down, and give it a single shake down, the trigger seems to work perfectly. If I point it up, and swing down, the trigger starts going fucky.

With the front end on, the trigger goes fucky regardless of whether I swing it. 

So I suspect the GB is moving slightly, just out of reach of the trigger bar, and with the front end on it's being pushed into that position somehow.

Has anyone had this issue before, or does anyone have suggestions to fix? I was thinking I could maybe put some padding at the back to help the GB seat forwards. Cheers!

 

[Skara]

YtS a TeEeM yT cUnT Bi wRonG!!!1!!!!!11!

My guess is that the box (or the trigger bar or whatever the fuck transfers the input from the physical trigger to the gearbox) moves back and forth, since the issue happens when you "push" the GB towards the back.

Try with some padding, then check the bar and see if it's snagging onto anything (reassemble without the gearbox, pull ze trigger and check) and then figure out why the box moves when putting the front end on,

 

[DrAlexanderTobacco]

My guess is that the box (or the trigger bar or whatever the fuck transfers the input from the physical trigger to the gearbox) moves back and forth, since the issue happens when you "push" the GB towards the back.

Try with some padding, then check the bar and see if it's snagging onto anything (reassemble without the gearbox, pull ze trigger and check) and then figure out why the box moves when putting the front end on,

Click to shrink...

Thanks Skara, that's pretty much where I'm at with it as well - the difficulty I have is the more I reassemble it the more cluttered the inside gets and it gets harder to spot any snagging points. I'll go slow and steady and see what I can do.

The one thing I was worrying about vis a vis padding would be overheating - GB position means the padding I'd put in would be right against the motor cage, which might affect things but I'm not really an expert there.

Will keep this thread updated ?

E: Actually putting the gun together without the GB is a bloody good idea, I'll definitely do that as well!

 

[Skara]

Thanks Skara, that's pretty much where I'm at with it as well - the difficulty I have is the more I reassemble it the more cluttered the inside gets and it gets harder to spot any snagging points. I'll go slow and steady and see what I can do.

The one thing I was worrying about vis a vis padding would be overheating - GB position means the padding I'd put in would be right against the motor cage, which might affect things but I'm not really an expert there.

Will keep this thread updated ?

E: Actually putting the gun together without the GB is a bloody good idea, I'll definitely do that as well!

Click to shrink...

I'd use some hard rubbery material and I'd drill some holes in it to allow some airflow

No idea on what exact material tho.

 

[Iceni]

I'll be something simple.

Firstly what modifications have been made to the hop unit and inner barrel.

 - Does the hop unit move in and out correctly on the spring. It should have at least 4mm of travel. If it's solid or you have shimmed the barrel  or lost the spacer ring at the back of the hop then that needs to be corrected.

- Is the spacer ring seated correctly?

When the gearbox is dropped into the body:

Do the motor wires prevent the gearbox seating correctly - the wires and motor end should not be difficult to put back into place. There is a specific order to how the wires sit so they don't get caught on the motor cage and backplate.

Is the gearbox seating correctly over the magwell. Turn the body upside down with a slight nose down angle and the gearbox should slide into place without needing to be forced, It will almost feed itself into position.

Is the hop sitting on the front of the gearbox correctly. Can you feel the hop spring engage and does it engage without force.

Have you pushed forwards/bent or damaged the ejection port baffles and slide. Is the slide seated all the way onto the gearbox.



Do not shim the backplate - You will crack the mag feed plate if it's done wrong.

The wires should feed like this. Note they don't sit in front of the cage, or at the rear of the cage but at the sides without interfering with the body or cage.

 

[DrAlexanderTobacco]

I'll be something simple.

Firstly what modifications have been made to the hop unit and inner barrel.

 - Does the hop unit move in and out correctly on the spring. It should have at least 4mm of travel. If it's solid or you have shimmed the barrel  or lost the spacer ring at the back of the hop then that needs to be corrected.

- Is the spacer ring seated correctly?

When the gearbox is dropped into the body:

Do the motor wires prevent the gearbox seating correctly - the wires and motor end should not be difficult to put back into place. There is a specific order to how the wires sit so they don't get caught on the motor cage and backplate.

Is the gearbox seating correctly over the magwell. Turn the body upside down with a slight nose down angle and the gearbox should slide into place without needing to be forced, It will almost feed itself into position.

Is the hop sitting on the front of the gearbox correctly. Can you feel the hop spring engage and does it engage without force.

Have you pushed forwards/bent or damaged the ejection port baffles and slide. Is the slide seated all the way onto the gearbox.



Do not shim the backplate - You will crack the mag feed plate if it's done wrong.

The wires should feed like this. Note they don't sit in front of the cage, or at the rear of the cage but at the sides without interfering with the body or cage.

Click to shrink...

Thanks so much for your help (including @Skara)

You're right, it was something incredibly simple. The backplate was solid after I tightened the screws, but with everything together things weren't playing nice still! 

Then I realised what it was, tested and confirmed. Like a good boy, safety conscious, I've been doing all of my troubleshooting without a magazine in the RIF. I realised the magazine is probably exerting some form of rearward pressure on the magazine feed assembly. As soon as I inserted a mag things are working perfectly. I'm so, so happy to have this G2G for a game tomorrow - thanks again!

 

[Iceni]

I've been doing all of my troubleshooting without a magazine in the RIF. I realised the magazine is probably exerting some form of rearward pressure on the magazine feed assembly

Click to shrink...

Actually you have probably unseated the magwell plate. It slides into place from the rear of the gun on 2 slots. They occasionally drop out of those slots. The mag probably pushed the plate back into position. It should have some movement when the gearbox is out, and depending on the body fit it might have a little movement with the gearbox in but upper off. The mag pulls it inline with the hop if it's out of position.

It's one of the reasons you invert the gun to insert the gearbox. The gearbox slides in better and doesn't catch that plate so easy.

All of my Augs shoot correctly without mags in.