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THE TM MWS thread

Mag dump problem,

Hey all, new to GBB. Using 144a weak I know but should still be able to handle at least 1 mag dump. When I got the gun, brand new, I was able to pull off a full auto mag dump in cold weather on about 8/10 seconds fill no green gas mod.

That was yesterday. Ever since, every time I try to repeat this it starts off with a very slow RoF and doesn't make it all the way through before it stops cycling. Switch to semi and it works but is. big sluggish.

Any suggestions. The gun is a day old.
Strange, especially for a brand new gun. Have you checked for gunk inside and made sure nothing is broken? You could also try purging the magazine by emptying it completely and filling as usual but holding down the knocker valve for a second until it starts spitting out 144a. Check the recoil buffer in the stock tube too, not that it should break that quickly but might as well exhaust all your options.

 
So, I got my MWS today and test firing with some Ultrair gas (all I have atm) its....hot. So I am looking for an NPAS in the UK, any suggestions? 

 
Noob problem alert.

Ok so I have a gun thats a day old and having issues dumping a mag on 144a. 

First video is day one. it functioned fine with an expected slight slow down at the end on the weaker gas.

Second video is the best I have been able to get out of it all day. Most of they day it has been failing to cycle a whole shot. Missfiring, not having enough power to lock back and barely getting through a 3 round burst.

The second video is not terrible but is obviously much slower rate of fire and more sluggish than the first. Filmed 1 day apart with blaster .25 on 144a and a room temp magazine.

Am I just being a noob here? Not filling the mag correctly, not enough, maybe over filling. I really don't know. Going to try on Green Gas when it arrives and if problems persist will make an update. But I am considering sending it back already! Didn't wanna be "that guy" I also am a bit of a hypochondriac so problems with a new gun certainly worry me

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So, I got my MWS today and test firing with some Ultrair gas (all I have atm) its....hot. So I am looking for an NPAS in the UK, any suggestions? 


Try some different gas first... Abbey Green for the warmer times and Abbey Ultra Predator (red can) for the colder temperatures.. then see what type of power you get... if that still doesn't satisfy your needs then either a Angry Gun NPA nozzle or a G&P NPAS valve... there is also an RATech one. I have both an Angry Gun and a G&P one. I've only tested the AG one and it works well with no hiccups... (but is surplus to my requirements coz my G&P NPAS will go into my G&P bolt). 

 
Buffer spring accident.

So I reassembled the gun and forgot to put the BCG back in. The buffer shot forwards into the upper and that made for a fun 30 mins wiggling it out. Had to use some small tools, applying pressure, trying to PUSH the buffer back into the tube, PULL it forward into the receiver and even a little bit of twisting. Doesn't visibly look damaged but obviously a very important component. How likely are these to get damaged easily in this situation?

Note for my earlier Full auto problems I did this mistake after those problems occurred.

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When this ever happen again just punch out (use pin punch) the front pin and separate receivers.

 
Looks like Model Work Custom is producing what seems like a pretty decent 7075 Forged Lower for the MWS. Anyone here have experience with Model Work Custom? I could be interested in getting one.



 
I did the same, just pushed out the front pin with a little tap. Easy
Thanks, will make a note. But as per the OP are the recoil springs sensitive. Seems pretty beefy so I am assuming I probably didn't cause any damage.

 
Same here, I had bought the SixG nub months in advance of buying an MWS after extensive research. Bought the MK.18 so I would have the option of using the Mk18, or swapping to my Block II rail, then the barrel nut stopped me. I have a proper tool, a heatgun, and an AR clamp, but I'm nervous how much heat I should be applying. I don't want to melt or damage anything internally, if that's even possible. Do people remove the 6 hex screws holding the rail to the body before they try unscrewing the barrel nut? 

Also, I know it's a dumb question, but it IS lefty loosey, right? I don't want to find out I've actually been tightening the thing...

 
So I managed to pick up a mildly abused lower to match up with my spare upper so I will have 3 complete MWS in 10” 14” and 18” barrel lengths.

My question to the collective is that this lower has had dummy anti-rotation latches fitted to it. (It is the absolute appalling manner that these were fitted in that is the cause of the abuse). Pretty sure I can fix the damage and refinish the lower to the point it will be invisible, but the original punch pin is missing. Having been replaced by the threaded rod for the latches. Any one have any experience with these? are they OK or should I make the effort to reinstate the original punch pin?

 
I’m not sure if it’s been mentioned in the previous posts but has anybody had any luck fitting those ranger style plates to the bottom of the MWS mags? They look like they would fit but would cover up the fill valve

 
I’m not sure if it’s been mentioned in the previous posts but has anybody had any luck fitting those ranger style plates to the bottom of the MWS mags? They look like they would fit but would cover up the fill valve
Bada bing has a video where he disassembles his ags and he says he doesn't think you will get one on. But that isn't 100% as he didn't actually try it.

 
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Bada bing has a video where he disassembles his ags and he says he doesn't think you will get one on. But that isn't 100% as he didn't actually try it.
Thanks bud, will have a look at the video. I am not massively technical so if he says you can’t then I won’t be trying it, not with the price and shortage of mags at the moment haha 

 
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