THE TM MWS thread

[jsmithski]

Definitely on my want list but I've spent way, way to much recently so I'm going to hold off with this for a bit.  incidentally is this likely to affect bolt lock because it will have the same effect as winding the buffer tube even further in would it not?

It will compress the recoil spring, may help when using power gas. It’s also simple to build on your own. I made something similar using sorbopads and washers.

 

[Kerberos]

I assume he means to change the bucking or nub? I haven't got any experience with the mk18 but I assume there are a few screw securing the handguard to the barrel nut which need to be removed to slide the handguard off. Then the barrel nut can be torqued off using the appropriate wrench.

Having to take my glove off and awkwardly finger my magwell to adjust the hop sucks though. Sure once you've done it a few times it be comes quite easy, but if you're someone with thicker hands or short fingers, it would REALLY suck. 

edit: so apparently the mk18 rail is two parts? You have to take the lower part off, and then the upper part via screws at the rear of the handguard or something

Yes, I've removed the side screws and the rear screws on the mk18 rail. Normally it would just be able to slide off on my old Madbull 12.5 RIS II, but for the TM there's a barrel nut inside the rail, so my normal castle nut wrench can't fit in

View attachment 65529

 

[Wild Weasel]

Depends on what other mods you are running.

What gas are you on?

What buffer spring are you running?

What weight bolt are you using?

Gas at the moment in sub 10°c is Mapp pro,

Buffer spring is TM,

Bolt is Hao Econoline with TM weight to further reduce the weight and weighs 146g minus the weight of the TM buffer that is included in that, Buffer is an empty GnP number though I am planning on adding weights to it to help slam the bolt shut twice on impact (loose weighted) and finally I have a GnP lightweight bolt catch plate on order.

Current performance:- https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1lfmKJtQm-qGtE-EJLlXXixfkon5uT6nDdt7BJOOOb1o/edit?usp=drivesdk

Providing all that works out then a hsb seems like a logical step although I do like to keep my (RoF) as realistic as possible without the hassle of picking up brass!

Incidentally I've tried a modify tan with the six g nub and cannot see an improvement on the tm, what's your opinion on the Autobot 60° /six g nub/ TM barrel combo please?

Cheers

 

[Davegolf]

I would guess that your bolt is travelling to fast rearwards potentially. A HSB will slow this down (in a good way) whilst still providing full travel and faster return to battery.

Have you tried it with the stock bolt?

I would run the standard TM buffer unit.

The difference between the Modify and TM is marginal, i prefer the TM for longevity.

Autobot 60 has not been tested, you need a bucking with conventional mound to work with the Super Nub.

 

[AlphaBear]

Yes, I've removed the side screws and the rear screws on the mk18 rail. Normally it would just be able to slide off on my old Madbull 12.5 RIS II, but for the TM there's a barrel nut inside the rail, so my normal castle nut wrench can't fit in

View attachment 65529

Great Scott!!! So that’s TM’s take on a MK18 rail??? On the look of it that looks ridiculous. Why on earth would they design it in such a way that makes taking the barrel out difficult. There must be something which is missing here??? Surely they could not have been this dim too make it so awkward to change a hop rubber as an example? In a licensed MK18 rail that barrel nut locks the outer barrel in place making it free float but that does not seem to be the case here!!!! Really weird!!!

Have you asked anyone on the Marui Recoil/GBB/GBBR Facebook group? 

 

[Davegolf]

Yes you are correct @AlphaBear, better of buying an MWS and retro fitting a MK18 kit

 

[Captain Darling]

Yes, I've removed the side screws and the rear screws on the mk18 rail. Normally it would just be able to slide off on my old Madbull 12.5 RIS II, but for the TM there's a barrel nut inside the rail, so my normal castle nut wrench can't fit in

View attachment 65529

Yes, I have managed to remove mine with a electric heat gun and 'special tool' I fabribodged at work from some (I think) 26mm OD conduit as seen the the attached pic.  It was quite the horror show, but came off pretty easily once I had got it all clamped in a vice with an AR receiver clam.

I shall be letting the tool go with the set when I flog the MK18 rail, barrel nut, flash hider, front sling loop point, rear stock and sights.

View attachment 65534

View attachment 65535

 

[Arassuil]

Yes, I've removed the side screws and the rear screws on the mk18 rail. Normally it would just be able to slide off on my old Madbull 12.5 RIS II, but for the TM there's a barrel nut inside the rail, so my normal castle nut wrench can't fit in

View attachment 65529

I was doing my daily GBBR rounds and have responded to your reddit post also, but same thing here:

This is the same rail that is on the MK18 NGRS and no, you cannot get a wrench around it. I got mine off by using flat head screwdriver in one of the square recesses and a mallet and start tapping down on it (anticlockwise/lefty loosey). It's aliminium and there's no thredlock, but it is tight and mine requried a few solid taps, enough so that it dented it.

 

[jsmithski]

You need something like this

View attachment 65549

 

[AlphaBear]

I was doing my daily GBBR rounds and have responded to your reddit post also, but same thing here:

This is the same rail that is on the MK18 NGRS and no, you cannot get a wrench around it. I got mine off by using flat head screwdriver in one of the square recesses and a mallet and start tapping down on it (anticlockwise/lefty loosey). It's aliminium and there's no thredlock, but it is tight and mine requried a few solid taps, enough so that it dented it.

The mind boggles ?. I still can’t get my head around how TM came up with such a design. 
 

Also is this the same way in which a NGRS rail also comes off? 

 

[Arassuil]

from the picture, it's the same rail they use on the Mk18 NGRS which I have. It's not an issue on the NGRS as you swap barrels and rubbers from the inside. I'm surprised they used the same design on the MWS though due to how you have to change the rubbers

 

[jsmithski]

Ask the store for dimensions, maybe it will work with MK18

https://www.milspecsolutions.co.uk/fg-airsoft-we-g39-barrel-nut-tool.html

 

[Kerberos]

Yes, I have managed to remove mine with a electric heat gun and 'special tool' I fabribodged at work from some (I think) 26mm OD conduit as seen the the attached pic.  It was quite the horror show, but came off pretty easily once I had got it all clamped in a vice with an AR receiver clam.

I shall be letting the tool go with the set when I flog the MK18 rail, barrel nut, flash hider, front sling loop point, rear stock and sights.

View attachment 65534

View attachment 65535

So the nut is also threadlocked? Per Arassuil, the NGRS wasn't, but for the gbbr that seems to be different. Might need to borrow one of my friend's heatguns once I get a tool for this job. Thanks for the help, gents!

 

[Hypokondrikern]

Did someone green gas mod the SAA pmags? And how many more rounds did you get out of it? 

View attachment 65569

 

[Hypokondrikern]

Someone asked about the mod for the short magazines as well a while back, however, no answer so far...

I guess I’ll be the first to try out both.

I had a long day trying to redeem the sneaky leak from my SAA mags. A word of warning: the aluminum or should I say the threads are very fragile. Actually, the whole construction reminds me of my IKEA furniture whereas it holds up together in its initial build but will be nothing but bits once taken apart. One mag is already beyond repair. Apply PTFE and tighten just until you feel slight resistance. I tightened a bit extra in my despair with the leaks, now a trophy of failure.

 

[jsmithski]

Someone asked about the mod for the short magazines as well a while back, however, no answer so far...

I guess I’ll be the first to try out both.

I had a long day trying to redeem the sneaky leak from my SAA mags. A word of warning: the aluminum or should I say the threads are very fragile. Actually, the whole construction reminds me of my IKEA furniture whereas it holds up together in its initial build but will be nothing but bits once taken apart. One mag is already beyond repair. Apply PTFE and tighten just until you feel slight resistance. I tightened a bit extra in my despair with the leaks, now a trophy of failure.

there’s always hope - not sure what threading is there but options are from threaded inserts to just epoxy glue it inside.

 

[Cat182]

Someone asked about the mod for the short magazines as well a while back, however, no answer so far...

I guess I’ll be the first to try out both.

I had a long day trying to redeem the sneaky leak from my SAA mags. A word of warning: the aluminum or should I say the threads are very fragile. Actually, the whole construction reminds me of my IKEA furniture whereas it holds up together in its initial build but will be nothing but bits once taken apart. One mag is already beyond repair. Apply PTFE and tighten just until you feel slight resistance. I tightened a bit extra in my despair with the leaks, now a trophy of failure.

I asked about the short mags 

The fill tube is 50mm was going to cut it in half 

 

[Hypokondrikern]

I asked about the short mags 

The fill tube is 50mm was going to cut it in half 

Lovely, let us know how it worked out !

 

[JamesHD]

Does anyone know whether the MWS take down pins are milspec or not? Looking to get rid of the slop between the upper and lower that's built up over the past year, but don't know if 'oversized' take down pins will fit or not. 

 

[SSPKali]

Does anyone know whether the MWS take down pins are milspec or not? Looking to get rid of the slop between the upper and lower that's built up over the past year, but don't know if 'oversized' take down pins will fit or not. 

just measured mine (TM front, WiiTech rear) pins and they are 6.16 / 6.17mm diameter. Hope this helps!