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THE TM MWS thread

P4radox said:
Jkarmy haven't got surface option I meant "IF" they would sent via surface ..1.5 month ago.....I've already written for them .
Sorry about the pmags that was me mate :D:D:D R8 sent via surface 30-54 days should be better than wait for the airmail service .
 
Click to expand...
gosh, I totally missed that. Thought that all HK shops sent with surface considering the situation we're in. Well I’ll have them before Christmas. It’s gonna be a strange airsoft summer with one 20 round mag.
 

Just sold all my old originals 30 rounders to afford the pmags. 
 

enjoy the pmags ;)  

 
Maligator said:
Pmags or stick with metal mags?

Not got my MWS yet but in the process of ordering. I prefer the pmag look as apposed to the old school metal mags, but I want performance over looks, so is there any difference? Good or bad
Click to expand...
The Pmags need a slight modification like seen in the link in P4radox’s post. But you can also buy the original TM part and replace it with. That’s what I did. I have heard that you get less recoil from the pmags but that’s negligible for me as I anyway play with aluminum bcg and plastic absorbers. I’d rather save some weight and get a better look and feel to the mag. It all depends on what you look for but out of the box - OG is better. 
 

( p.s don’t trust me too much as my mags are still in HK ;)  ) 

 
Hypokondrikern said:
The Pmags need a slight modification like seen in the link in P4radox’s post. But you can also buy the original TM part and replace it with. That’s what I did. I have heard that you get less recoil from the pmags but that’s negligible for me as I anyway play with aluminum bcg and plastic absorbers. I’d rather save some weight and get a better look and feel to the mag. It all depends on what you look for but out of the box - OG is better. 
 

( p.s don’t trust me too much as my mags are still in HK ;)  ) 
Click to expand...
Im wondering whether GG mod able to solve the recoil problem I think the gas tank is smaller 

 
P4radox said:
Im wondering whether GG mod able to solve the recoil problem I think the gas tank is smaller 
Click to expand...
tricky to say as I haven’t done it myself. But badabing pictures ( great channel ) tried several exchanges with og TM parts and nothing fixed it. 
 

 
A little covid DIY project for those who don't like rubber magpuls and want something more like these for your MWS stanag mags.

You need: 3mm kydex, M3x10mm countersunk screws, saw / knife, heat gun, drill with 3mm - 5mm drills and countersink

  1. Cut the kydex into squares (I made mine 58x58mm) either using a saw or simply scoring it multiple times with a knife and snapping it
  2. Drill and countersink two holes along the center to match the screws on the base of the magazine. As the screws go into the mag at an angle it helps if you angle the countersink a bit too (as is done on the standard base plate)
  3. Unscrew the standard base plate but keep pressure on it, slide the kydex square over it, and secure both with the new longer M3 screws
  4. Heat the kydex square slowly with a heat gun, shielding the mag as much as possible (my mags all still seal afterwards... but this is is definitely not great for them)
  5. While hot, quickly tighten the screws a little more to help pull the kydex into the tabs on the base plate, then bend over the flaps. I got the tightest bend by pressing all three sides in with some wood scraps for about a minute, before then letting it cool completely with the main sides pressed in a vice... its a bit tricky to get a sharp 90 degree bend into 3mm kydex, but you can always re-heat if you're not happy with the first result
  6. Once cooled, unscrew and slide off the kydex again (keep pressure on the base plate and re-secure it with a screw...) to drill the hole for the gas fill valve. I tried drilling this hole at the start, but because the kydex warps when you heat and bend it I found it tricky to get the location right
You end up with a nice 3mm ledge on the back and front of the mag which helps to get a grip on it, and the kydex adds some extra drop protection too. Not sure what the extra strain will do to the screws in the long term, but I don't imagine its that bad.

Enjoy!

View attachment 58333

 
Quick question chaps,

Does the MWS accept real steel sling plates?

Was looking at getting a Magpul QD ambi sling point/plate or similar.

 
RMDavis said:
Quick question chaps,

Does the MWS accept real steel sling plates?

Was looking at getting a Magpul QD ambi sling point/plate or similar.
Click to expand...
my rs magpul  ASAP sling plate fitted fine without any modification so I'd imagine that the QD would work just as well...

 
I have just stripped, cleaned and re-built my MWS trigger box.

Not as bad a task as I expected, mainly down to pre-watching the Eagle6 youtube video on it several times!

While flushing it with disc brake cleaner then re-oiling is great normally, the previous owner seemed to keep this CQBR buried in a sand pit and the trigger was tight and sluggish.

Stripped, de-greased and then reassembled with Abbey TF2 grease (and a light spray of GT85 on the Z-plate and bolt release catch) and the trigger is smoother, definite wall and more even pull with a crips reset. Not match quality but useable.

I am still looking to improve the trigger but I am having a hard time finding which parts or modifications actually help. There seem to be some very pricey parts kits or complete trigger boxes out there but zero user feedback (other than some negative stuff on the G&P box!)

EDIT: Just ordered one ?

Has anyone used the WIITECH "marksman sear"? At £18 it sounds like a reasonable upgrade....

 
Last edited by a moderator:
So, an update on the WIITECH Marksman sear for the MWS.

It fitted fine but made the trigger '2 stage' and meant the first part of the pull pushed the valve knocker 1/3 way forward! This even happened when the selector was set to SAFE!

Pulling the trigger after this lead to a light-strike on the magazine valve and failure to cycle.

If you simply snatched at the trigger it worked, but given the safety implications I immediately changed back to the stock TM sear.

View attachment 58515
View attachment 58516

 
SSPKali said:
So, an update on the WIITECH Marksman sear for the MWS.

It fitted fine but made the trigger '2 stage' and meant the first part of the pull pushed the valve knocker 1/3 way forward! This even happened when the selector was set to SAFE!

Pulling the trigger after this lead to a light-strike on the magazine valve and failure to cycle.

If you simply snatched at the trigger it worked, but given the safety implications I immediately changed back to the stock TM sear.

View attachment 58515
View attachment 58516
Click to expand...


That was a fast delivery! Where did you order it from? 
 

Anguishing to see how the part didn’t work as intended - I hope that you can return it. 

 
Hypokondrikern said:
That was a fast delivery! Where did you order it from? 
 

Anguishing to see how the part didn’t work as intended - I hope that you can return it. 
Click to expand...
Shop have said I can return it, plus given me the name and number of their GBBR guy to speak to. Purchased from FireSupport who are awesome and who I will use again (and again, and again!)

Seems from the Facebook TM GBBR group this is a feature, not a bug. IE they all do this and people just accept it ? Apparently the regular (non-marksman) sear is pretty good so may try that. The fit and finish on it is amazing, shame the double-bevel on the face gives this weird issue!

HOME FIX: If you are happy taking the trigger box apart look for areas inside the shell where the trigger bar is rubbing due to torsion of off-set spring tension. Gently sand the corresponding area on the trigger bar to reduce the friction. Bonus points for sourcing 0.1mm steel shims for the hammer, trigger and sear posts to prevent torsion friction ?

EASIER TUNE: Under the "tail" of the semi auto sear (rear left of trigger box as you hold the lower reciever) place small squares of gaffer tape under this, stuck to the trigger box, to reduce the sear engagement with the hammer. Don't add too much and check that you can't accidentally trip it by cocking the gun then slapping it around like it owes you money ?

You should end up with some nice smooth take up to a clearly defined wall then a shorter, crisp break. Total cost £0.03p.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
SSPKali said:
So, an update on the WIITECH Marksman sear for the MWS.

It fitted fine but made the trigger '2 stage' and meant the first part of the pull pushed the valve knocker 1/3 way forward! This even happened when the selector was set to SAFE!

Pulling the trigger after this lead to a light-strike on the magazine valve and failure to cycle.

If you simply snatched at the trigger it worked, but given the safety implications I immediately changed back to the stock TM sear.

View attachment 58515
View attachment 58516
Click to expand...


I had the same problem with a UAC gold flat face trigger as well.

I fitted it and found that on full auto the gun worked fine and t he BCG always returned to battery correctly. But lets be honest, we don't use full auto (practicality) on a GBBR.

In semi i found that after every shot i had to push the UAC trigger fowards by about a millimetre for the gun to shoot again after each shot.

 
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