THE TM MWS thread

[Horse84]

Hi guys,

I am new to this forum. I have a question regarding g & g adjustable trigger box. I recently purchased the trigger box but ran into issues. No matter what I do, I run into sticky trigger problem. After firing, and the bolt cycles, my trigger won’t reset properly. It seems when I release the trigger after firing, the adjustable trigger sear is still caught on the hammer. I have to manually push my trigger bar forward to disengage it, and I can squeeze the trigger again. I am wondering if anyone else ran into this problem and was able to solve it?

Thank you 

I have the exact same issue with my g&p trigger box so I’ll be interested to see any replies. Extremely disappointed with the product considering the exorbitant price I paid for it. I’ve tried lubing and I’ve uninstalled and reinstalled in numerous times to zero affect. I’ve just gone back to the stock trigger and I don’t think I’ll be going back.

 

[Shizbazki]

Glad you went Prommy, for I while there I thought you were going to go Crazy.

Some like them but in testing I did not.

Before you get super excited and throw all your packaging away; roll the barrel on a flat surface and check it's true/straight.

Also inspect the crown/barrel exit for any little burrs.

95% of the time Prommy are bang on but sometimes there's the odd lemon

So last night i received my Prometheus 6.03mm tightbore 370mm inner barrel, with my Laylax hop up arm in hand i decided to have a go at install them in the MTR16.

Managed to get the receivers apart, BCG out, flash hider, front rail and faux gas block, EASY.

Then came a hour of headache (is it really airsoft modding if there is ever no headache? ?) I spent the best part of an hour trying to remove the first castle nut with an armourers wrench and heat gun. Only once the receiver itself was too hot to handle with bare hands would the first castle nut move, they it was a simple pull of the next piece AND then ANOTHER FREAKING CASTLE, BIGGER THAN THE LAST!!! I had to heat the receiver up so much i was worried shit would start melting, how much thread glue did TM use, a whole bottle ?

Second Boss castle nut removed, and some wiggling for the outer barrel and finally i could access the hop.

I decide to measure the width of the Laylax one and compare it to stock, both were 6.75mm wide perfect. New barrel in (checked for QC and it was spot on), new hop arm in and reassemble which thankfully didn't take too long.

After all that the result, FPS wise a bit disappointing, didn't get the FPS improvement i was hoping for.

STOCK on .20g BBs she was firing around 1 to 1.1 joules or about 330 to 335FPS

Upgraded barrel and Hop Arm i was getting 1.2 joules or around 355 to 360FPS

I was hoping at least to hit 380 to 400FPS and then use the NPAS to dial it up further.

So some questions:

Was i expecting too much going from a 250mm to a 370mm inner barrel?

Should that extra 120mm length have made a bigger difference or is it what you would expect?

My only reason is that when i owned a KWA Vector, stock it was shooting 380FPS, but screwing on the suppressor (which acted as a 150mm inner barrel extension) pushed the FPS to over 450FPS

As for range and accuracy i cant tell as i have a tiny garden, but i hope i didn't lose too much of the fairy dust in the hop, i was very careful.

My NPAS hopefully will arrive soon so i am hoping i can volume up the MTR 16 to output at least 420 to 430 FPS.

 

[jsmithski]

There are many factors here. Do you have a good seal on the nozzle2bucking? What green gas are you using? I’m pushing over 2.6J using 380mm barrel, autobot bucking and KWA rocket valve in the nozzle.

 

[adas1223]

stock 250mm 340fps ...laylax 6.01 373mm 370fps... duster gas saw NO change and maintained 240fps. everything stock but the barrel.

modifying the stock rocket valve got 450 on propane and 350 on duster (601 barrel) 

go figure.

 

[Sy87]

I have the exact same issue with my g&p trigger box so I’ll be interested to see any replies. Extremely disappointed with the product considering the exorbitant price I paid for it. I’ve tried lubing and I’ve uninstalled and reinstalled in numerous times to zero affect. I’ve just gone back to the stock trigger and I don’t think I’ll be going back.

I actually got it to work today. Basically, I loosened the hammer tension screw as well as set the trigger travel adjustment screw to neutral. I applied decent amount of Teflon grease on the hammer hook and the trigger sear and just played with the trigger sear adjustment screw until the trigger sear just lightly engages with the hammer. At this  point previously the trigger would get caught and won’t reset, unless I push the trigger bar forward. But with the Teflon grease applied, the friction was gone and the trigger will reset even after hammer is recocked. I also lengthened and increased the spring tension on the sear in back that catches the hammer. It seems that the stronger spring allows the sear to catch the hammer faster.  

View attachment 57089

 

[Horse84]

I actually got it to work today. Basically, I loosened the hammer tension screw as well as set the trigger travel adjustment screw to neutral. I applied decent amount of Teflon grease on the hammer hook and the trigger sear and just played with the trigger sear adjustment screw until the trigger sear just lightly engages with the hammer. At this  point previously the trigger would get caught and won’t reset, unless I push the trigger bar forward. But with the Teflon grease applied, the friction was gone and the trigger will reset even after hammer is recocked. I also lengthened and increased the spring tension on the sear in back that catches the hammer. It seems that the stronger spring allows the sear to catch the hammer faster.  

View attachment 57089

Yea that will work for a couple of mags but it will revert back to its bad habits at least that’s what mine did. Realistically for that price you shouldn’t be having to do that much work to get it to work for what is, in reality, a negligible improvement in performance and functionality over the stock trigger box.

 

[Sy87]

Yea that will work for a couple of mags but it will revert back to its bad habits at least that’s what mine did. Realistically for that price you shouldn’t be having to do that much work to get it to work for what is, in reality, a negligible improvement in performance and functionality over the stock trigger box.

Ya I agree , it’s too much tinkering. I wish it was less adjustability and more reliability. I am wondering if the recoil messed up the setting for you? I ended up blue thread locking the bottom screw, will have to see how long that last me .

On a side note, I ended up replacing my trigger sear spring with a weaker one lol... I found a spare disconnector spring on my tm glock, and used that instead. It seems to make the trigger sear not clamp as hard on the hammer as the original spring but still enough to stop hammer from resetting during bolt cycle. 

 

[Airsoft J2]

I've had a search but haven't seen an answer to this issue:

My fire selector get stuck between auto and semi and won't turn back to semi, let alone to safe, even when cocked.

So far, when this has happened I've half removed the fire selector and have moved it around before re-engaging it at safe (when cocked). Has anyone else had any issues with their fire selector getting stuck?

My MWS is all stock I haven't done anything with it (disassembly etc) so it's a bit perplexing!

 

[SSPKali]

Ya I agree , it’s too much tinkering. I wish it was less adjustability and more reliability. I am wondering if the recoil messed up the setting for you? I ended up blue thread locking the bottom screw, will have to see how long that last me .

On a side note, I ended up replacing my trigger sear spring with a weaker one lol... I found a spare disconnector spring on my tm glock, and used that instead. It seems to make the trigger sear not clamp as hard on the hammer as the original spring but still enough to stop hammer from resetting during bolt cycle. 

Wow glad I haven't forked out £200+ for that trigger set. I like tinkering but not fixing other peoples bad designs or executions!

Is there anything worth doing to the stock trigger unit to make it a little crisper on the break point and reset? Would disassembly and polishing help?

 

[Sy87]

stock 250mm 340fps ...laylax 6.01 373mm 370fps... duster gas saw NO change and maintained 240fps. everything stock but the barrel.

modifying the stock rocket valve got 450 on propane and 350 on duster (601 barrel) 

go figure.

I 

stock 250mm 340fps ...laylax 6.01 373mm 370fps... duster gas saw NO change and maintained 240fps. everything stock but the barrel.

modifying the stock rocket valve got 450 on propane and 350 on duster (601 barrel) 

go figure.

My mws stock was shooting around 360, after Prometheus barrel and modify bucking, bolt nozzle assembly upgrade, I am shooting around 440-450 on propane?

Wow glad I haven't forked out £200+ for that trigger set. I like tinkering but not fixing other peoples bad designs or executions!

Is there anything worth doing to the stock trigger unit to make it a little crisper on the break point and reset? Would disassembly and polishing help?

Ya it’s expensive  I got mine for 185 usd. I was disappointed when it didn’t work out of the box. But now that I got it working, I have gotten the trigger pull to a point where there is no slack. The wall is right at the beginning. Hope it last though ...

 

[Seven]

I've finally decided to pull the proverbial trigger and get me one of these bad boys, CQBR version. Already ordering parts!

Just ordered myself a licensed EMG/SAI QD Rail with JailBrake, pictured below.
Will be picking up a Magpul MOE stock too.

Just need to find myself a nice skeletonised pistol grip and foregrip and i'll be all set I think... not including optic of course.

Kinda excited!

View attachment 57170

 

[adas1223]

I 

My mws stock was shooting around 360, after Prometheus barrel and modify bucking, bolt nozzle assembly upgrade, I am shooting around 440-450 on propane?

Ya it’s expensive  I got mine for 185 usd. I was disappointed when it didn’t work out of the box. But now that I got it working, I have gotten the trigger pull to a point where there is no slack. The wall is right at the beginning. Hope it last though ...

yeah, the temp i was testing in was around 50degree f. not sure in Celsius but it was cooler. i would imagine warmer temps, the mws does 350-360 stock. but just changing barrel inner diam. doessnt change too much...

theoretically, keeping the stock magic TM barrel, and just going straight for a nozzle set is a better first option. you may also have better groupings with a wider bore needing less cleaning.

 

[Sy87]

What buckings do you guys use mostly? I currently have the modify tan bucking with a H nub. I am wondering if firefly bucking is any good, it is quite expensive.

 

[marine]

What buckings do you guys use mostly? I currently have the modify tan bucking with a H nub. I am wondering if firefly bucking is any good, it is quite expensive.

I have tested some buckings and modify tan is the best , If you want  test other... similar results with Mrhop maple leaf but her install it´s difficult

 

[Smiller]

Hey fellow MWS warriors, I’m in need of some assistance please:

my stock trigger isn’t resetting itself anymore and i have to push it forward slightly to enable it to reset, this doesn’t happen on every shot but not far off.

i’ve recently upgraded to the AG lightweight bolt with nozzle ( I’ve changed the NPAS To my RA tech and buffer piston to the standard TM) I’ve also upgrade the buffer to the g&p and used 2x of the steel weights. 

I’ve checked the trigger box and there doesn’t seem to be any broken bb’s etc and given it a squirt of oil. 

Could the issue be with the upgraded parts causing the trigger not to reset or is it something else please?

Looking forward to the help 

thanks 

 

[Wild Weasel]

Hey fellow MWS warriors, I’m in need of some assistance please:

my stock trigger isn’t resetting itself anymore and i have to push it forward slightly to enable it to reset, this doesn’t happen on every shot but not far off.

i’ve recently upgraded to the AG lightweight bolt with nozzle ( I’ve changed the NPAS To my RA tech and buffer piston to the standard TM) I’ve also upgrade the buffer to the g&p and used 2x of the steel weights. 

I’ve checked the trigger box and there doesn’t seem to be any broken bb’s etc and given it a squirt of oil. 

Could the issue be with the upgraded parts causing the trigger not to reset or is it something else please?

Looking forward to the help 

thanks 

I believe the general consensus is it is caused by dirty "non dry lube" causing parts to stick.  If you have a look at wolf's guide to cleaning in the first couple of pages you'll see he uses wurth dry lube and carburettor cleaner to dissolve all the crap and flush out through the trigger, allow it to dry and re lube, I've been using this method from day one and haven't had a problem - give that a go before riving out the box perhaps?

 

[Cipher-032]

Hey fellow MWS warriors, I’m in need of some assistance please:

my stock trigger isn’t resetting itself anymore and i have to push it forward slightly to enable it to reset, this doesn’t happen on every shot but not far off.

i’ve recently upgraded to the AG lightweight bolt with nozzle ( I’ve changed the NPAS To my RA tech and buffer piston to the standard TM) I’ve also upgrade the buffer to the g&p and used 2x of the steel weights. 

I’ve checked the trigger box and there doesn’t seem to be any broken bb’s etc and given it a squirt of oil. 

Could the issue be with the upgraded parts causing the trigger not to reset or is it something else please?

Looking forward to the help 

thanks 

Ive had this from a BB strike/malfunction. Found a ton of debris in the my trigger unit for some reason.

I *personally* use a spray lube for my trigger box. Nice and thin oil, and use a stronger trigger spring set as well to help the reset.

Also polishing the trigger box and the sides of the trigger itself will aid in reset.

I get the odd hang up but rather rare. Another squirt of silicone spray and im good to go.

 

 

[Smiller]

I believe the general consensus is it is caused by dirty "non dry lube" causing parts to stick.  If you have a look at wolf's guide to cleaning in the first couple of pages you'll see he uses wurth dry lube and carburettor cleaner to dissolve all the crap and flush out through the trigger, allow it to dry and re lube, I've been using this method from day one and haven't had a problem - give that a go before riving out the box perhaps?

Thanks fella. Will give it a go. 

 

[Sy87]

Hi guys,

I am wondering if anyone has run into issues where after tightening the barrel nut, the hop arm arm doesn’t move as freely. I am running into this issue where after dialing hop up all the way down, there is still hop shown in the barrel. Only if I press down on the hop with a barrel rod, does it reset. 
If anyone has this issue , how were they resolved?

i am currently using a centurion arms mlok rail with a pts barrel spacer.

Thank you kindly  

 

[Davegolf]

When tightening the barrel nut you need to make sure that the hop lever stays centralised in the the reciever groove.

Yours is probably rubbing on one side