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THE TM MWS thread

[SIZE=17pt]Hi guys! I have such a problem with the TM MWS carbine. Trigger mechanism sticks. When the weapon is cocked, it does not fire because it is under-cocked. To fully cocked trigger mechanism need a little rearrange the position in SAFE or AUTO, and only then will be a complete cocking.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=17pt]I decided to pull out and clean the trigger mechanism. But I can't do it. Because I stopped at the point where I need to pull the selector, but it does not pull out due to the fact that I can not put the selector in SAFE mode. Even when the weapon is cocked and can shoot! What to do, prompt?[/SIZE]

the method on this video does not work. the selector is too tight and won't come out
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=usxIMv5l_us&feature=youtu.be&t=74


 

View attachment 46930

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Did you press the sear after locking the hammer back?

 
Wo1f said:
Did you press the sear after locking the hammer back?
Click to expand...
Yes. [SIZE=12pt]I recorded this action on video and you can watch it in my post.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=12pt]I suggested to put the selector between SEMI and AUTO or SAFE and SEMI in 45 degrees, after which the selector out to just a few millimeters, but then how would I not twisted and is not crushed, it does not get out[/SIZE]

[SIZE=12pt]upd:[/SIZE]

[SIZE=12pt]As I said, after clicking on the sear, the mechanism is not fully cocked if the selector is in the SEMI position.  But!  If the selector is initially in the AUTO position, then the mechanism is cocked immediately and ready to fire.  But even after that, the selector cannot be placed in the SAFE position.  As well as the selector can not pull out.  Only a few of millimeters.[/SIZE]

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Hey guys , when I pull the nozzle and let it go I can hear the nozzle spring inside the bolt is that normal ? 

 
Hello everybody, I upgraded my rif with parts recomended the most here, i.e. Modify TAN bucking + SuperG brass nub. I also added tightbore barrel MapleLeaf 410mm 6.01mm.
 
View attachment 46962
 
I never found any exact measurements of the difference in fps and projectile energy while using short and widebore barrel vs. long tightbore barrel. Therefore I decided to have a nice evening with chrono and several weights of bbs and measure it myself.
 
I used chrono AIR CHRONY MK1 (https://www.anareus.cz/detail.php?id=12868https://www.anareus.cz/detail.php?id=12868). The web is in Czech language but it basicaly says that this is high end and precise chrono. Measurement were all taken indoor with air temperature around 22 celcius. Humidity was around 45-50%, therefore indoor average. I measured velocity in m/s and then converted it to fps with conversion of 1m/s = 3.28084 FPS.
 
I used several weights of BBs. These are: BLS precision 0.20g; G&G white 0.28g; Madbull 0.40g; Novritsch 0.49; BLS Precision 0.50g.
 
First I used vanilla/stock rifle and took five shots of each BB. Then I did the upgrade, i.e. change bucking, nub and barrel, and again I took five shots each. You can find result in table hereunder. In green cells there are mws stock shots and in red cells there are shots after the upgrade. 

 View attachment 46967View attachment 46969View attachment 46968
Edit: Please ignore measurement of the fisrt shot with BB Novritsch 0.49 taken with stock MWS. It is a typo and I dont remember the correct measurement. 
 

What I find interesting is this:
 
1. I feel like I dont have enought fps in stock/vanilla rifle. If I remember correctly some people said their stock rifle has around 330fps. Can anyone confirm this?

2. Increase is not what I expected. I though it would be 20% and more because it is tightbore barrel which is 170mm longer than the stock one. Has anyone different experience?
 
3. Increase in fps and especially in energy is more significant with heavy weight BBs.
 
4. Consistency is very good. However I havent seen prolonged measurement in any other rifle and I took only 5 shots.
 
Please feel free to comment. I am very interested in your findings and opinions.
 
Thanks!

 
Last edited by a moderator:
M.a.r.v.i.n said:
Hello everybody, I upgraded my rif with parts recomended the most here, i.e. Modify TAN bucking + SuperG brass nub. I also added tightbore barrel MapleLeaf 410mm 6.01mm.
 
View attachment 46962
 
I never found any exact measurements of the difference in fps and projectile energy while using short and widebore barrel vs. long tightbore barrel. Therefore I decided to have a nice evening with chrono and several weights of bbs and measure it myself.
 
I used chrono AIR CHRONY MK1 (https://www.anareus.cz/detail.php?id=12868https://www.anareus.cz/detail.php?id=12868). The web is in Czech language but it basicaly says that this is high end and precise chrono. Measurement were all taken indoor with air temperature around 22 celcius. Humidity was around 45-50%, therefore indoor average. I measured velocity in m/s and then converted it to fps with conversion of 1m/s = 3.28084 FPS.
 
I used several weights of BBs. These are: BLS precision 0.20g; G&G white 0.28g; Madbull 0.40g; Novritsch 0.49; BLS Precision 0.50g.
 
First I used vanilla/stock rifle and took five shots of each BB. Then I did the upgrade, i.e. change bucking, nub and barrel, and again I took five shots each. You can find result in table hereunder. In green cells there are mws stock shots and in red cells there are shots after the upgrade. 

 View attachment 46967View attachment 46969View attachment 46968
Edit: Please ignore measurement of the fisrt shot with BB Novritsch 0.49 taken with stock MWS. It is a typo and I dont remember the correct measurement. 
 

What I find interesting is this:
 
1. I feel like I dont have enought fps in stock/vanilla rifle. If I remember correctly some people said their stock rifle has around 330fps. Can anyone confirm this?

2. Increase is not what I expected. I though it would be 20% and more because it is tightbore barrel which is 170mm longer than the stock one. Has anyone different experience?
 
3. Increase in fps and especially in energy is more significant with heavy weight BBs.
 
4. Consistency is very good. However I havent seen prolonged measurement in any other rifle and I took only 5 shots.
 
Please feel free to comment. I am very interested in your findings and opinions.
 
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Now this was quite a homework bro haha, very nice presentation and interesting findings. i hope to see the same chart once you put any high valve on it to see the changes !

 
M.a.r.v.i.n said:
3. Increase in fps and especially in energy is more significant with heavy weight BBs.
Click to expand...


This is known as Joule creep, it’s something which happens with spring sniper rifles, gas guns and HPA and doesn’t happen very often with AEGs because the amount of air being used to push the BB in an AEG is usually too little for the length of it’s inner barrel. 

Whereas a well tuned spring sniper rifle will have the perfect cylinder size to barrel length ratio which when you start using heavier BBs the joules will creep up. 

 Obviously with gas and HPA they usually fire more compressed gas than necessary therefore causing the same issue mentioned above.

example: my gas sniper rifle chrono’s on 0.2 at ~420fps which is 1.65J whereas when I use 0.48s like I do during games it’s on ~320fps which is on the limit of 2.3J. 

 
M.a.r.v.i.n said:
Hello everybody, I upgraded my rif with parts recomended the most here, i.e. Modify TAN bucking + SuperG brass nub. I also added tightbore barrel MapleLeaf 410mm 6.01mm.
 
View attachment 46962
 
I never found any exact measurements of the difference in fps and projectile energy while using short and widebore barrel vs. long tightbore barrel. Therefore I decided to have a nice evening with chrono and several weights of bbs and measure it myself.
 
I used chrono AIR CHRONY MK1 (https://www.anareus.cz/detail.php?id=12868https://www.anareus.cz/detail.php?id=12868). The web is in Czech language but it basicaly says that this is high end and precise chrono. Measurement were all taken indoor with air temperature around 22 celcius. Humidity was around 45-50%, therefore indoor average. I measured velocity in m/s and then converted it to fps with conversion of 1m/s = 3.28084 FPS.
 
I used several weights of BBs. These are: BLS precision 0.20g; G&G white 0.28g; Madbull 0.40g; Novritsch 0.49; BLS Precision 0.50g.
 
First I used vanilla/stock rifle and took five shots of each BB. Then I did the upgrade, i.e. change bucking, nub and barrel, and again I took five shots each. You can find result in table hereunder. In green cells there are mws stock shots and in red cells there are shots after the upgrade. 

 View attachment 46967View attachment 46969View attachment 46968
Edit: Please ignore measurement of the fisrt shot with BB Novritsch 0.49 taken with stock MWS. It is a typo and I dont remember the correct measurement. 
 

What I find interesting is this:
 
1. I feel like I dont have enought fps in stock/vanilla rifle. If I remember correctly some people said their stock rifle has around 330fps. Can anyone confirm this?

2. Increase is not what I expected. I though it would be 20% and more because it is tightbore barrel which is 170mm longer than the stock one. Has anyone different experience?
 
3. Increase in fps and especially in energy is more significant with heavy weight BBs.
 
4. Consistency is very good. However I havent seen prolonged measurement in any other rifle and I took only 5 shots.
 
Please feel free to comment. I am very interested in your findings and opinions.
 
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Fantastic post, mate. 

Some of the newer gen MWS’s have different float valves that lower the FPS. The gen 1’s were breaking the 1j limit in Japan under certain conditions so they changed it. With gas guns you’ll always get a larger joule increase than FPS increase though because it’s a self adjusting volume system depending on BB weight 

I was getting a 60ish FPS increase with a 410mm. It could be the amount of hop applied, or perhaps it isn’t creating a good seal with the bucking. If it’s consistent it shouldn’t be that though. 

 
Anybody knows if I will need the pts ring for this type of rail? Or would it be better for me to buy a 6,5" outer barrel with a wider lip? Anybody knows of a suitable outer?



 
Kayzeroth said:
Long and tighter Inner barrel along side with a high flow valve. i personally recommend the G&P Nozzle Valve 5.0 (The Red One) is variable so you can control how much you can obtain!
Click to expand...
Hi,

I am assuming I need to install the nozzle valve on to the magazine? Sorry to ask such a noob question :P

Thanks,

 
bapexxx said:
Hi,

I am assuming I need to install the nozzle valve on to the magazine? Sorry to ask such a noob question :P

Thanks,
Click to expand...


oh sorry when i said High Flow Valve im talking about the Nozzle Valve not the valve of the Magazines

 
hey guys , how many meters have with sixGbrass nub and modify with 0.3gr and 1.14J to max ?

 
Kayzeroth said:
oh sorry when i said High Flow Valve im talking about the Nozzle Valve not the valve of the Magazines
Click to expand...
aHH gotcha! just purchase one lets see how it goes.

I managed to install the modify tan bucking and prometheus 6.03 350mm (cant remember how long exactly lol). Sadly, i dont have a chrono to check the fps will need to go to my local airsoft shop to test it.

My m4 is almost ready for 13th of July!

 
Last edited by a moderator:
RossF said:
Good luck mate, am right behind you (will be doing the same in a few weeks!).  Where did you get the ORGA Lex from?  Can’t find it in stock anywhere so went with the prommy 370mm myself, and waiting for a reply on the supernub.
Click to expand...
i got myself a laylax strike hop arm instead of the supernub. If you dont want to wait (like me) you can order the strike hop arm instead :P

 
RossF said:
Good luck mate, am right behind you (will be doing the same in a few weeks!).  Where did you get the ORGA Lex from?  Can’t find it in stock anywhere so went with the prommy 370mm myself, and waiting for a reply on the supernub.
Click to expand...


I made it... But honestly at first atempt I didn´t make it well... I made "no Hop Up gun" ??? But find out where I made a mistake and  now with 0,36 BB have to low hop up settings a bit. Nice and straight shots ?

So first step is done. Thank you for every post here and your suggestions.

Next step will be nozzle valve, nozzle springs and sealing buffer ???

I bought barrel here: https://www.powair6.com/en/gbb-precision-barrels/5190-orga-lex05-barrel-for-tokyo-marui-m4a1-mws-371mm.html?search_query=ORGA+LEX05+BARREL&results=1276

 
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