THE TM MWS thread

[SSPKali]

Ok, that rules out the hop / hop arm moving when you added your new barrel nut.

*Check how old your bbs are incase they’ve swollen.

*Check your feed lips for any damage and if your mag springs are still…springy.

*Check the bolt is travelling as it should e.i not going over the lips (this can happen if the upper / lower have a fair amount of play.

*Check all your mags are doing it and you can rule out the duff one.

Check the little horizontal arm sticking out the front of the nozzle isn’t pushed up (if it is it will ride over the top of BB in the mag, not push it into the chamber)

 

[Wavey_Gravey]

Good shout I forgot about that one!

 

[lokkers]

I never heard back from LC Engineering, so my CQBR to L119A1 project is now on hold. Decided to build an URGI upper instead, so I've ordered a 13" rail and barrel nut from HAO.  I'm assuming I don't strictly need the low profile gas block and profiled barrel to start with (although I'll definitely get them later for completeness)?

Can anyone recommend a good MK16 charging handle in bronze/FDE?

 

[BFG00123]

I never heard back from LC Engineering, so my CQBR to L119A1 project is now on hold. Decided to build an URGI upper instead, so I've ordered a 13" rail and barrel nut from HAO.  I'm assuming I don't strictly need the low profile gas block and profiled barrel to start with (although I'll definitely get them later for completeness)?

Can anyone recommend a good MK16 charging handle in bronze/FDE?

You could check C&C MK16 charging handle, it's cheap and good looking too

 

[gus88]

Can recommend the C&C tac charging handle, fits perfectly, nice finish and works as it should 

 

[BFG00123]

My URGI 10.3 build is still being seized by BF when I shipped from Hong Kong to the UK last October, therefore I have rebuilt an MK18 Mod1 from 2nd hand full kit purchased here with some new parts including black RISII clone Rail I have brought from JKArmy and the M600 style light from eBay.

My previous URGI 10.3 build

View attachment 95236

Current Black MK18 MOD1 Build

View attachment 95237

 

[NoRo]

Hi guys, 

I have recently bought the G&P version 2 buffer and it came with a lot of parts  For sure I understand why the weights are in and that I can choose the weight etc. 

Question is, what about the rest ? I recon the springs are there for make a movable weight inside to stop the bolt bounce right ? And if I do not want it, I simply put the tubing along with the weights ? 

I assembled it this way: oring -> spring -> one weight -> spring -> end cap. 

Should also put the pin when the rubber bumper is ? It fits tightly though.

Thanks in advance for help.

 

[Wavey_Gravey]

Got a link / any photos?

Wasnt the 5 position buffer from fire support was it?…I’ve was about to buy that and got pipped for the last one ?

 

[NoRo]

View attachment 95518

 

[Emergencychimps]

Hey all, 

Can I get your thoughts on this? 

My mags are brand new and have "3" on the bottom of them, so I am guessing they are the gen 3 version of the mag. 

First game day I used abbey 144 gas (was still doing 310 with 0.3s in 32 degrees). But all loaded etc and apart from being hot it worked. 

Yesterday I switched to using propane with a madbull adapter. I was failing to get any gas into the mags. 

Do I need to do this o ring mod or is if just a metal adapter/pin is no good and I need plastic? 

Any other recommendations appreciated! 

 

[SSPKali]

Hey all, 

Can I get your thoughts on this? 

My mags are brand new and have "3" on the bottom of them, so I am guessing they are the gen 3 version of the mag. 

First game day I used abbey 144 gas (was still doing 310 with 0.3s in 32 degrees). But all loaded etc and apart from being hot it worked. 

Yesterday I switched to using propane with a madbull adapter. I was failing to get any gas into the mags. 

Do I need to do this o ring mod or is if just a metal adapter/pin is no good and I need plastic? 

Any other recommendations appreciated! 

I tried the Madbull and AI metal adapters and never got them to work even with o-ring mod. Some people found the plastic AI adapters worked better.

Unfortunately AI are no more so don’t know what a good choice would be. 

With ASG Ultrair being on offer and propane prices rising quite a bit I wasn’t going to save much if anything. 

 

[Reap]

Hi all, I’m after some advice/opinions, I’ve had my MK18 MWS since it launched, I’ve skirmished it stock for many games, always maintained it after each game day, fired many a thousand rounds through it, it’s been thrown, fell on, slammed on the floor, slammed against trees as I’ve taken tumbles, nothing has ever broken, it’s so reliable, I’ve made all the internal upgrades I wish to, it’s one hell of a reliable weapon. 
   I now want to finish it off with an awesome paint job, so I’m speaking to people who have already painted their MWS, is there any specific paint brands anyone would recommend? I’m going for a battle worn look but with  woodland colours rather than fde as we don’t have desert environments in the UK.

 

[Emergencychimps]

@Reap

Mk18s generally have desert based paintjobs as they've most commonly been used in desert like places. Personally I prefer rifs that fit with where they were used. Fde based paint jobs with green on them look great and are suprisingly good in woods. 

I've always liked the dropped in look, where the upper, rail and barrel are not painted but the lower, stock and pistol grip are painted and often well worn. From that time mk18s were the new new and only the uppers were being issued and being added to older style m4s 

 

[scar527]

Hi all, I’m after some advice/opinions, I’ve had my MK18 MWS since it launched, I’ve skirmished it stock for many games, always maintained it after each game day, fired many a thousand rounds through it, it’s been thrown, fell on, slammed on the floor, slammed against trees as I’ve taken tumbles, nothing has ever broken, it’s so reliable, I’ve made all the internal upgrades I wish to, it’s one hell of a reliable weapon. 
   I now want to finish it off with an awesome paint job, so I’m speaking to people who have already painted their MWS, is there any specific paint brands anyone would recommend? I’m going for a battle worn look but with  woodland colours rather than fde as we don’t have desert environments in the UK.

Krylon Ultra flat Matt paint works the best  in my experience. I'd do a few layers(2-3) for your base color, and then stencil with the secondary colors after that as you see fit. It will need a touch up from time to time as it will wear, but as that is what you are going for that shouldn't be a problem.

 

[killshot]

Hey All, 

I recently got the Dynamic Precision nozzle return spring,

got it all installed what appears correct, followed youtube vids etc. 

and now my fps has shot up to 380.

Gas efficiency is meh, and the bolt fails to cycle after about 15 rounds. 

Also recoil feels punchier, in weight, but also slower. 

also when removing the bolt, and pulling on the nozzle it's not snappily returning, its rather slow and meh. 

any ideas or helps to fix this would be greatly appreciated. 

 

[SSPKali]

Hey All, 

I recently got the Dynamic Precision nozzle return spring,

got it all installed what appears correct, followed youtube vids etc. 

and now my fps has shot up to 380.

Gas efficiency is meh, and the bolt fails to cycle after about 15 rounds. 

Also recoil feels punchier, in weight, but also slower. 

also when removing the bolt, and pulling on the nozzle it's not snappily returning, its rather slow and meh. 

any ideas or helps to fix this would be greatly appreciated. 

I would clean and lube the cup seal to make sure the nozzle can move in the bolt carrier smoothly.

Did you replace the rocket valve spring too? That being stiffer / longer will increase the FPS. For reliability you only need to swap out the nozzle return spring (the one in tension), the rocket valve spring is fine with the TM part.

I would check the nozzle is smooth and not catching on the bucking rubber thus slowing things down.

 

[killshot]

I would clean and lube the cup seal to make sure the nozzle can move in the bolt carrier smoothly.

Did you replace the rocket valve spring too? That being stiffer / longer will increase the FPS. For reliability you only need to swap out the nozzle return spring (the one in tension), the rocket valve spring is fine with the TM part.

I would check the nozzle is smooth and not catching on the bucking rubber thus slowing things down.

Thanks for the reply. I only changed the return spring. I lubed the cup seal, and it moves smoothly, it's just like the spring doesn't have tension until it's stretched far out, and it's not snappy return like I see in everyone's videos. 

I don't think it sticking in the bucking is the issue, as when the bolts removed it's sluggish there. 

Also gas efficiency on a 10 second charge is like 25 shots max. 

I'm going to take it apart later today again and just doouble check everything. but I'm not sure what to look for now. 

 

[Emergencychimps]

Took my mws out for the 3rd time yesterday.....I'm in love. 

I can see why people don't want to use aegs ever. 

Internally mines completely stock, outrageously effective and good fun. A whole new way of playing Airsoft. 

If you're reading this and debating whether you should get one ....yes you should. 

 

[Kalashnikov911]

delete

 

[blazin23]

I got the Laylax(Prometheus) 6.03mm (370mm) EG Inner Barrel https://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/laylaxprometheus-603mm-370mm-eg-inner-barrel-for-m4a1-mws recently and discovered the TM hop rubber doesn't actually fit on it (the barrel 'lip' is a bit longer than the standard one).

Can anyone recommend a hop rubber that is longer and will fit? I have the laylax hop arm as well so aiming to use heavier weight bbs