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THE TM MWS thread

hi guys, i see some of you tried g&p adjustable nozzle. so maybe stupid question : what would happen if i put gold 4.5 or red 5.0 one with 250mm length inner barrel? i see 5.0 one is for long barrel. do you recommend this npas?

 
sabaka said:
hi guys, i see some of you tried g&p adjustable nozzle. so maybe stupid question : what would happen if i put gold 4.5 or red 5.0 one with 250mm length inner barrel? i see 5.0 one is for long barrel. do you recommend this npas?
Click to expand...


To be honest it's a question of trying it and see what happens. I have a 3.5 which marries up to the CQBR barrel length. If I use the 4.5 or 5.0 the question

 is will the valve let through more gas at it's minimum setting than say a 3.5 will? Buy one and let us know.. It's all a learning curve for everyone :)

 
AlphaBear said:
To be honest it's a question of trying it and see what happens. I have a 3.5 which marries up to the CQBR barrel length. If I use the 4.5 or 5.0 the question

 is will the valve let through more gas at it's minimum setting than say a 3.5 will? Buy one and let us know.. It's all a learning curve for everyone :)
Click to expand...
I would have thought that the valves for longer barrels would let through LESS gas to avoid massive joule creep? I could be wrong and it wouldn't be the first time!

Maybe we need to club together to buy the low, mid and high and test them out on our set ups and pass them round to get a ground truth for them? 

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Hey folks there's this lad on FB who is struggling with jams on his mws, I'm stumped could anybody help:-

Hello folks, I got a serious jamming problem with my mws. All stock.

Original valve ? Perfect.

Ratech npas valve ? Jam

G&p adjustable valve ? Jam 

I already tried with an heavier buffer (g&p), heavier nozzle spring (a 150%) and heavier buffer spring (g&p).

I can't think about it anymore about how the fk is physically possible and why the fk no one has this problem with npas.

Comment:-

Already done: I tried with different bucking, different hop lever, different buffer, different buffer spring, different valve spring, different nozzle spring, different bbs. Nothing changed.

And when I put the original marui valve, it works like always.

It's some kind of japanese curse i guess

TY all

Various people have suggested this that and the other but none help, he needs an npas of some description otherwise he'll be over his field limit.

Any thoughts

https://m.facebook.com/groups/TMInfoGroup/permalink/1149603288876457/

 
Wild Weasel said:
Hey folks there's this lad on FB who is struggling with jams on his mws, I'm stumped could anybody help:-

Hello folks, I got a serious jamming problem with my mws. All stock.

Original valve ? Perfect.

Ratech npas valve ? Jam

G&p adjustable valve ? Jam 

I already tried with an heavier buffer (g&p), heavier nozzle spring (a 150%) and heavier buffer spring (g&p).

I can't think about it anymore about how the fk is physically possible and why the fk no one has this problem with npas.

Comment:-

Already done: I tried with different bucking, different hop lever, different buffer, different buffer spring, different valve spring, different nozzle spring, different bbs. Nothing changed.

And when I put the original marui valve, it works like always.

It's some kind of japanese curse i guess

TY all

Various people have suggested this that and the other but none help, he needs an npas of some description otherwise he'll be over his field limit.

Any thoughts

https://m.facebook.com/groups/TMInfoGroup/permalink/1149603288876457/
Click to expand...
Handily I can't post on that group as they have refused to let me join.

He doesn't say *what* is jamming? The bolt? The valve/NPAS? 

Silver RATech will jam in a TM nozzle and needs sanding to move smoothly.

A quick and cheap option for him to try is to glue a 0.1mm gear box shim to the back of the TM valve. That will close the gap the gas flows through a tad and will drop the FPS. A bit trial and error but worth a shot!

 
AlphaBear said:
To be honest it's a question of trying it and see what happens. I have a 3.5 which marries up to the CQBR barrel length. If I use the 4.5 or 5.0 the question

 is will the valve let through more gas at it's minimum setting than say a 3.5 will? Buy one and let us know.. It's all a learning curve for everyone :)
Click to expand...
i thinking about gold one 4.5, so i let you know how it is working?. 

 
SSPKali said:
Handily I can't post on that group as they have refused to let me join.

He doesn't say *what* is jamming? The bolt? The valve/NPAS? 

Silver RATech will jam in a TM nozzle and needs sanding to move smoothly.

A quick and cheap option for him to try is to glue a 0.1mm gear box shim to the back of the TM valve. That will close the gap the gas flows through a tad and will drop the FPS. A bit trial and error but worth a shot!
Click to expand...
Thanks I'll pass this on

 
Those brass bits wear out fast, good to have a spare ?

How much was that lot delivered/fees if you don’t mind?

 
Davegolf said:
Those brass bits wear out fast, good to have a spare ?

How much was that lot delivered/fees if you don’t mind?
Click to expand...
Hi Dave

The whole lot was £56 delivered of which £14 was postage. It’s still way cheaper than if you bought these items in the UK.  
 

On another note, I’m about to order something which may be ITAR controlled. This will be fun ;)  

 
Last edited by a moderator:
AlphaBear said:
On another note, I’m about to order something which may be ITAR controlled. This will be fun ;)  
Click to expand...
*tries to order a triglide buckle from the US*

ITAR CONTROLLED! THE RED COATS WILL INVADE IF WE SHIP THESE OVERSEAS!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 
Wild Weasel said:
Hey folks there's this lad on FB who is struggling with jams on his mws, I'm stumped could anybody help:-

Hello folks, I got a serious jamming problem with my mws. All stock.

Original valve ? Perfect.

Ratech npas valve ? Jam

G&p adjustable valve ? Jam 

I already tried with an heavier buffer (g&p), heavier nozzle spring (a 150%) and heavier buffer spring (g&p).

I can't think about it anymore about how the fk is physically possible and why the fk no one has this problem with npas.

Comment:-

Already done: I tried with different bucking, different hop lever, different buffer, different buffer spring, different valve spring, different nozzle spring, different bbs. Nothing changed.

And when I put the original marui valve, it works like always.

It's some kind of japanese curse i guess

TY all

Various people have suggested this that and the other but none help, he needs an npas of some description otherwise he'll be over his field limit.

Any thoughts

https://m.facebook.com/groups/TMInfoGroup/permalink/1149603288876457/

Update on this guy (Anthony blunt)'s fault
Click to expand...
Matt Mills double and triple feed in full auto. When I pull the trigger no bb comes out like it should, one just roll out of the barrel, one is just spitted out, another one breaks in it end so on. Like the cycle was wrong.

But I can't figure out how it is possible just changing the valve

 
Got the magpul bad lever and bolt locks back fine on stock bolt stop so far.

A warning to others do ot use the bad lever as it marks the body of the gun, even after sanding the back lots it will still catch :(

Big waste of £35 ffs :(

View attachment 74018View attachment 74017

A warning to others do ot use the bad lever as it marks the body of the gun, even after sanding the back lots it will still catch :(

Big waste of £35 ffs :(

 
Last edited by a moderator:
GothicGhost said:
Got the magpul bad lever and bolt locks back fine on stock bolt stop so far.

A warning to others do ot use the bad lever as it marks the body of the gun, even after sanding the back lots it will still catch :(

Big waste of £35 ffs :(

View attachment 74018View attachment 74017

A warning to others do ot use the bad lever as it marks the body of the gun, even after sanding the back lots it will still catch :(

Big waste of £35 ffs :(
Click to expand...


Yup i found that the hard way too.

Also my bolt lock stopped working as well so double d'oh

 
Your pains are our gains gentlemen.... ;)

As I have said previously, the MWS is a great platform to experiment with and the lessons learned help us all :)

 
I never liked the idea of the bad lever anyway. Lots of extra surface area to get caught on stuff and weight to stop it from working properly. Much prefer the PDQ style one on the MTR16. Trouble is for that it's just about the only though about it that I like!

 
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