I have a technical exercise in mind for my L85 and I just want to run the theory by anyone who wants to read it in case there's some issue I might've missed or overlooked the importance of or something.
A lot of people with ARs will have more than one buffer spring and they'll swap between them depending on the temperature. Theory being that when it's cold and the gas can't expand as much, using a weaker spring helps with cool down and gas efficiency. Less tension on the bolt from the spring means it's easier to push the bolt back, easier means less gas, less gas means less cool down, less cool down means more shots per mag - Greater overall gas efficiency.
Of course, once it gets warmer again a heavier spring needs putting back in to stop the gas from smashing the bolt into the rear of the gun too hard and causing undue damage, so it's a balancing act.
Anyway though, bearing that in mind, I have a spare recoil guide rod/spring set assembly for my L85 and I was thinking of trying a similar thing...
With an M4 there is only one spring, it both cushions the bolt when it hits home at the back end of its travel, and it also resets the bolt.
With the L85 there are two different springs (there are 3 springs total, but two are the same). The main one acts as the M4's spring does, the other type of spring there are two of and they're very short, very stiff springs that sit at the back of the gun, so when the bolt hits them, they trampoline it back forward again, increasing the rifle's cycle speed. These two shorter, stiffer buffer springs remove the need for the main spring to be as beefy, the main spring's duties are now reduced to holding the bolt forwards/closed and returning the bolt to battery (the forward position) when the catch is released on a reload, or when the bolt is manually racked - Because during firing, the little buffer springs are what return the bolt, by acting as a trampoline for the bolt, which is something the M4 lacks.
I'm thinking of cutting the main recoil spring on my L85.
It needs to still have enough strength to return the bolt under its own steam, as well as enough tension to hold the bolt forward with it moving around if you shake the rifle. It also needs to still be long enough to actually cover the bolt's full travel, so I'm hoping there'll be surplus length once it's uncompressed for me to remove a good few inches from it and still have the rifle function correctly.
But the more length I can remove from it, the weaker the spring will be, which means the less gas it'll take to cycle the action... So if I get the balance right, I'm hoping it'll work a lot better in the cold.
I ran the idea by a load of other people and they just said, "Use CO2 mags" or "Get a HPA rig".
But they're not me... I just want the challenge of trying it all out as a test of my technical understanding of the system.