New member - G&G CM16 Predator firing issue

[Anno]

Hello all,

New member to the forums, fairly new to Airsoft also.

I have purchased a G&G CM16 Predator, tried it out the weekend at first and only.

Had an odd issue through out the game which forced me to stop using the gun. After firing around 20-30 BBs the gun would stop working. Nothing would happen at all when the trigger was pulled. No tension on the trigger, no sound of motor turning etc. I thought it was possibly my battery not being correctly charged so I tried a spare from a friend. Once plugged in the gun worked, but again, stopped after firing a number of BBs. Disconnecting and reconnecting the battery would (sometimes) allow the gun to continue working but this was not always the case.

Someone mentioned this could be an issue with the shot detection and residue from the BBs being left on it. I have only used 0.20g Blasters with this gun. I am not aware of the BBs leaving any sort of residue but please correct me if I am wrong. If this is indeed the case how would I prevent this from happening?

I have tried to find out what this could be but I am not finding much information on the Predator anywhere. If anyone can offer some advice or has a Predator and has had this problem themselves, please let me know.

 

[Sitting Duck]

Oh dear....

$hit G&G electronics it seems on SR, FFR, Predator's & Hog's

basically anything with some ETU & 3rnd bollox is likely to fail

http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/29759-g-g-cm16-srl-battery-issues/

Thank f*ck I held back from buying one, seems like all the eletronics can/will fail at some point

 

[proffrink]

General rule: Don't fix these things yourself if it's new. Speak to the retailer - it could be a fundamental issue and once you disassemble everything to find out what that problem is you've voided the warranty.

 

[Sitting Duck]

101% Agree

G&G need to sort this crap out or refund

the whole thing is flawed it seems and badly thought out/designed/rushed out

bloody shame coz they do look lovely

 

[Anno]

Thanks people, been struggling to find anything on this issue, I guess that was because I was searching for the Gun name.

I will contact G&G, hopefully they can sort it out. If it is a general problem that is going to keep coming back with these poor G&G electronics, would it be an idea to rip it all out and go basic?

 

[proffrink]

Don't contact G&G - contact the retailer. They will speak to G&G if they have to.

 

[Sitting Duck]

aye as proff says contact the retailer - they are the ones you as a UK consumer need to take it up with

G&G homepage - look for guay2.com or something to see what other lemon guns the ETU is fitted to

but you contact retailer you bought the gun from - LWA Z1 etc.......

hope you get it sorted

 

[Anno]

Thanks people, I will send it back to the retailer. Just so I know and don't get fobbed off, what can/should they do in order to fix this?

 

[Sitting Duck]

it "seems" that the ETU has to run on 9.6v batteries or above

it "should" work on any battery but imho G&G have screwed up (again)

Therefore Zero One have recently added a bit about 9.6v battery and lower voltage it may shut down to protect the unit

So it appears that owners need to use higher voltage nimah 9.6v upwards

9.9v LiFe batteries or 11.1v LiPo's

Gun has the mosfet so it will be fine on 11.1v lipo

the stock motor will not smash the gearbox to bits

though putting in a neodym motor later could

reckon with 11.1v LiPo will hit say 20 to 22rps on stock motor

shs torque motor will hit over 30 to say 32rps - not wise out of box

annoying thing is the unit failing, being forced to buy more expensive 3 cell LiPo's

but really just pi$$ poor development and release

Before you send the thing back - maybe see if it works with a higher voltage battery ???

if the unit is shot then send it back asap

 

[Anno]

Thanks SD, I have ordered a 11.1v LiPo. Should arrive tomorrow, I will test it out and report back. Thank you for all your help.

 

[Sitting Duck]

No probs sir what forums and all of us on here are for......

I should have a cheap FFR 2 by about Wednesday which will be getting a damn good thrashing soon & at the Mall

so hopefully we will share your frustration and see for ourselves wtf G&G have ballsed up

fingers crossed the 11.1v lipo should sort it - until the fet burns out - kidding

(hopefully)

 

[Anno]

hahaha *cries*

I emailed G&G out of curiosity and this is what they replied with...

[SIZE=12pt]May we have what specification 11.1V Li-po battery you used on this model?[/SIZE]

[SIZE=12pt]After discussing with our ETU researcher, who mentioned that it’s because the battery voltage is closer at the cut-off point of ETU system.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=12pt]There are two possible causes, one is that the battery is almost out of electricity and requires charged, the other is that the quality of battery is bad and the voltage inside battery is weak .[/SIZE]

[SIZE=12pt]That’s why it fired 20-30R, then stop firing, disconnect and reconnect battery, it worked the same.[/SIZE]

 

[Sitting Duck]

It is very very likely a gun requiring juice into double figures

but the annoying thing is that G&G and retailers - though not really retailers fault

should of made this perfectly clear to all of us

And tbh in the higher end guns like yours offered a battery or at very least a discount on a recommended one

coz to be truely honest a few tweaks and a 7.4v can perform better than many stock guns on 11.1v

and 7.4v are cheaper & smaller to fit in limited battery space

an OTT example is a crappy G&G dsg HC05 - stock on 11.1v lipo = 30 to 33rps

ripped it to f*ck - 40+ rps @ 300fps on 7.4v lipo - didn't try 11.1v coz that was plenty for me

Raider Long 357mm barrel with 12:1 gears ShortStroked 4 teeth on 7.4v - 33rps @ 330fps

probably won't last but proves many on here don't always HAVE to run on 11.1v

the above was a LOT of work but demonstrates 11.1v is not always needed

just friggin' annoying they G&G couldn't get it to work properly on all batteries

recommend lipo's must be a min 20c - no lower

if possible go for 25c burst rating - if it says 25-50c then take it as a 25c rating I was told

 

[Anno]

I ordered

http://www.componentshop.co.uk/11-1v-1000mah-20c-continuous-discharge-airsoft-lipo-split-pack.html

Am I going to struggle with this one? I thought this would be best as the battery space on the Pred isn't that roomy at all.

 

[Sitting Duck]

You most likely won't struggle at all but will very likely need 2 of them

change battery at lunchtime is what most of us do

As I said when you go up an extra cell to 3 the size increases

and if 3 stick where does the extra stick go if stock tube isn't that deep with the mosfet unit in there

It is a friggin' pain to have this crap forced upon owners

your link didn't show up - says ooops page etc...... or out of stock

Look the newer GOS-V3 stock "seems" that it might have a bit more room inside the 2 tubes

well it seems but will find out when I get mine, but seems like it might have more room than the

normal basic crane stock fitted to Raiders - often not much more than about 19mm diameter

some other stocks on other guns have a more square battery tube that they don't round off inside so much

and these can get up to 22mm - sounds next to nothing but can make a difference between larger batteries fitting or not

I often fit a small fixed stubby stock to most guns for less restrictions on battery sizes

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Jing-Gong-Stubby-Killer-Type-CQB-Shorty-Fixed-Stock-for-Airsoft-AEG-BLACK-/281671670724?hash=item4194f09bc4:g:3~cAAOSwBvNTobK2

No I am not saying get one of those - coz it spoils the look if looks are a big concern to some owners

but then often the really cheap block batteries fit in really easily & cheaply

http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/__31978__ZIPPY_Compact_2200mAh_3S_25C_Lipo_Pack_UK_Warehouse_.html

I'll start having a mess about with my gun when she arrives and post up some measurements as accurate as possible on the battery space

 

[Anno]

That is odd, not sure why the link doesn't work. I just found the battery again on the website and it is the same hyper-link as I previously posted.

Providing the battery does indeed fix the issue, I will certainly be purchasing another, possibly 2 more just to be safe.

I do love the look of the Predator but if it means I can at least use the gun I will definitely purchase a roomier stock.

 

[Sitting Duck]

I think I can see one or two on there you might have bought

Now this "might" fit but have doubts as it is getting close

http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=44767

is says its 20mm x 6mm so its getting tight especially if it puffs a tiny tiny bit - which is fine

but may not fit so easily once it has a light puff pastry

plus 1000mah capacity could be better

yeah 11.1v 3 cell stuff is a bit more of pain to fit into tight airsoft compartments

The FireHawk with its stock tube battery in GOS-V2 is another pain in ar$e limiting what you can use

nice looking stock but not so practical in use imho - lovely for front wired guns, crap for rear wired

Hence I flogged a couple of them stocks and just bought stubby - just couldn't be ar$ed no more

anyway - I'll get some dimensions - probably about 130-135mm depth/long

but its the diameter or dimensions of the actual tubes that restrict some batteries from fitting ok

will post some findings in the afternoon no doubt

 

[Sitting Duck]

I ordered

http://www.componentshop.co.uk/11-1v-1000mah-20c-continuous-discharge-airsoft-lipo-split-pack.html

Am I going to struggle with this one? I thought this would be best as the battery space on the Pred isn't that roomy at all.

Yeah I think your choice is probably the safer bet than the single stick version:

http://www.componentshop.co.uk/11-1v-1000mah-20c-continuous-discharge-airsoft-lipo-battery.html

this is gonna be too thick as it is over 18mm thick

seriously the stock is f*cking pi$$ poor space wise

reckon absolute max max you are looking at about 110 - maybe 120 if battery is thin

(the tubes tapers a bit and my test batteries were stopping about 10mm short)

and diameter wise - bloody hell 18mm is pushing it - poxy G&G

reckon to be safe 17.5mm heck 17mm should be aimed for in case a little lipo swell over time

so yeah battery space is about 17mm diameter by say 110mm max length

weird twisty end to GOS-V3, this flat back inside the twist is slightly angled but more so

it is flat where classic crane stocks often have a bulge/angled end that clips on and could allow a little longer length to about 125mm

but nope G&G have decided to make owners have to use 9.6v to 11.1v lipo's

but with less friggin' bastid stupid room inside - so your capacity/range/choices is very limited

Your battery should fit fine I'd say

either a cell down each tube - the center stock tube cell might be a squeeze - not looked at fet thickness

but if not 2 cells down one tube should be fine I'd say

20A continuous discharge, 40A burst3 sections : 106.9 x 15.9 x 6.5 mm weight 67g.

For the record - think my left tube was a smidge tighter than the right tube - not much at all but noticed it

Been looking for other batteries but tiny 11.1v lipo's that I'd say fit are coming up too damn risky for me to recommend

Think you made a wise choice on the battery I'd say

tried a lightly used 7.4v - yeah no go on cycling

runs fine on a lightly used 11.1v

the 3rnd burst option on full auto I was playing with enable/disable

The FFR 2 I got has a metal RIS which was a nice surprise on a CM

not sure about sights - will change plastic flash hider me thinks

then me personally I will fit a stubby fixed stock on there - sod poxy little batteries

Wiring - I will pop on deans as my batteries mainly have them

The wiring though is crap - very thin stock wiring - kinda expecting silver or thicker wiring

well going by what I can see at fuse/tamiya connector

Think 11.1v will see ya fine - hopefully

but pi$$ed G&G have ballsed it up and forcing owners to go to higher volts just to get gun to work ffs

Wow - finally had a read in manual - typical bloke style read manual if problems...

battery:

Model No : G-11-082

7.4V 1100 mAh

LI-PO Battery (Two-piece)

7.4V 1100 mAh

SEE - THAT IS THEIR RECOMMENDED BATTERY !!!!!!!

on page 4 of manual ffs !!!!

or a nimah G-11-056 - which is a 9.6v nimah

BUT right their in manual is says Recommended 2-piece Li-Po G-11-082

or the 9.6v nimah battery is second choice as it reads.....

if using 3 piece be f*cking careful arranging wires on the titchy little bastid lipo

that we should of included for free coz we ballsed up (again)

don't use above 25c batteries coz our $hit fets & motors can't take it

Ok it didn't say that last paragraph - but think that is the amended owners manual going to press

 

[Anno]

Battery arrived this morning, only managed to open it up and have a look before leaving for work. Certainly, at first glance, looks like it will fit. I had the same issue with one side feeling as if it was tighter than the other when trying to fit the nimh in before. I have just been reading up on the whole Deans vs Tamiya, certainly feel like changing it all over to Deans now.

I was orignally using a 9.6v 1600 mah Nimh battery. I was told this would be fine for my gun.

what will you change the flash hider with?

 

[Sitting Duck]

oh - maybe a stubby silencer just for looks really

(seems like it will fit flush up to ris - ideally a short 3" one would look perfect but most of mine are 110-125mm)

or maybe a claymore flash hider - tbh nothing like a claymore

and don't look that different just a metal one

your Predator is gonna be different to my cheapo ETU FFR 2

guy on LWA review said about it - normally I run with stock looks up front

stubby on the ar$e for block batteries

and a gun screaming its gonna bust any second

pic of my FFR 2 with stubby & suppressor etc.....

from other SR-L post but you can get the picture of what it looks like