New member - G&G CM16 Predator firing issue

[Anno]

OK, so I tried out the 11.1v lipo and IT LIVES!!!!!

Maybe it's just in my head but the gun felt like it had extra kick to it. I played around with it for about half hour, didn't cut out once.

I've ordered all my deans, heat shrink etc, sadly won't turn up before this weekend's skirmish. Will certainly change it all over once they are here. Just ordered a second lipo with deans and then I receive this...

[SIZE=12pt]"Hi Andrew,[/SIZE]

[SIZE=12pt]Thanks for the link advised.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=12pt]It’s hard to tell the quality of the battery by the picture.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=12pt]To fix the problem you have now, we will have a new batch MOSFET/ETU which could use 9.6V Ni-Mh battery as well to our direct UK dealers next week. Then it will work fine no matter you use 9.6V Ni-Mh or 11.1V Li-po, since we will lower the cut-off point on MOSFET.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=12pt]Our direct dealers will be supposed to be recall sold ETU models back for replacement while they receive this new batch MOSFET/ETU.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=12pt]Let me know if any question.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=12pt]Sincerely.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=10pt]Thank you & Warm Regards,[/SIZE]

[SIZE=10pt]Apple Huang [/SIZE][SIZE=10pt][email protected]"[/SIZE]

I have got onto my seller, he has not heard anything about this "recall" but he will speak to his wholesaler. Now if they have released a new model, do I send mine back? or carry on with the 11.1 lipo, I'm unsure if I need to now I am using the lipo. The triple cell battery I bought fits a treat, room to spare in fact!

I actually really like the look of the stubby, I have the battleship grey Pred, could look interesting with a black stubby. all my attachments are obviously black as well.

 

[Sitting Duck]

11.1v lipo's have extra 3.7v cell so in theory they can run up to 50% faster rpm on motor

in practice its probably about 45% faster but you kinda get the idea of extra juice....

Lipo's have a C or burst rating on top - sort of how much kick or horse power they got when power is first applied

So 20c is normal, 25c is better, 30c+ is going some

maybe an extra 1 or 1.5rps per 5C increase but don't quote me and up to a limit I'd say

There is deffo further slight increase on 20c 25c 30c etc.... but giving ya a rough guide only coz can't be ar$ed to test all batteries exactly

Crazy speed freaks go for stuff like 45-60c+ but seriously ????

Anyway - most lame stock guns pull about 13rps so 50% on top from 11.1v is gonna get you to about 20rps - maybe 22rps is my rough estimate

I strongly advise NOT changing motor to shs torque/speed though as these will rip 33% to 50% even faster - getting high 20's or even 30rps

on a stock box it will very very likely crap out on beefy motor & 11.1v lipo - very quickly

so in its present state 11.1v lipo on the stock ferrite motor doing 20-22rps will be fine - but no more

20's is plenty

As for G&G - nobs

Not the first or probably the last time they have had to replace units

They have probably just started to get this sorted after fairly recent problems starting to surface

Funny enough I wouldn't be amazed if they tried to cut corners recently (again) and come unstuck

These newer ETU guns have been around for about 6 months or so....

I think the SR-S SR-L SR-XL are 6 months old at least maybe 9 months ago first batches started to appear

People were saying they were good and no problems I recall seeing - only in last couple of months more lemons have popped up

So it would not put me in deep shock to learn them at G&G sought to change/source some electronics elsewhere to save money

often cheap mosfets from ebay & China are clones/copies/fakes and can't handle the power they are supposed to and crap out

Or maybe the voltage regulator normally used in first batch say a 4.7v or 3.3v - heck might be ok just with a 5v regulator...

Oh well we got some 6v or 7v regulators to use on the boards....- yeah sod it they will do.....

Anyway - if they at G&G get a revised/improved/proper board they should of supplied in the first friggin' place.....

If/when they get the board sorted - it should also be a moderately easy job for a competant person to change themselves

the board will be wired to small tamiya at one end, and 2 female 2.8mm spade connectors at the other end

refit in the 4 wire jst connector from ETU and easy swap over.....

Only problem is the clear heatshrink tubing needs to be carefully cut off to gain access to the ETU wires/plug

(and reapply some new heatshrink after refitting new mosfet board)

So I can see to keep warranties authorised retailers may have to recall the ETU guns affected - refit & repost

Postage - hmmmm that has gotta be £10 each way plus fitting - which G&G should be paying for all costs....

So £20 shipping, £10 board and fitting by some "Qualified G&G Technical mofo" - hmmm yeah Jimmy in the warehouse more like

Still gotta be £35 or so cost

AND - G&G still don't say it will work with 7.4v lipo's like in manual, even with new mosfet board FFS !!!!!

So by all accounts after all this if you bought 7.4v lipo's - even after the recent recall

(so recent - most retailers may not have a f*cking clue what you are on about)

IT STILL ISN'T GUARANTEED TO WORK WITH 7.4v LIKE THE MANUAL RECOMMENDS !!!!

G&G - why not just buy or send owners a friggin' 11.1v lipo and be done with it

coz think you are just trying fix the Titanic with some plasters/Band Aid

no not Bob Geldolf Band Aid - though I do see the link with Bob being a G&G sales person...

OK - joking aside and general pi$$ taking etc......

What I will say is the ETU & 3rnd burst isn't as total crap as I'm making out

yes - could/should of been tested and working as it says on box/manual....

yes - it loses the 3rnd setting - but not a massive biggie as I said

BUT - in use it is quite nice - no more/less trigger pull than normal trigger/switch

it is when you set it on 3rnd burst that it completes the 3rnd burst with just a long or a tiny quick flick of trigger

stopping where it should everytime regardless of flick/long pull of trigger release

I would even go so far to say that it seems like even in semi - just one single shot

it fires just right with a quick flick of trigger and parks properly where it should

Though to be honest with 11.1v in there at 20rps it is snappier but I have tried to flick it into the dead zone

but so far it cycles fully and stops where it should after a complete cycle

Tried it in semi - 3rnd burst and also in full auto modes but having a number of goes it is not parking in dead zone

Well I had a reasonable go in all modes but not gonna spend hours & hours trying it

but it does appear to have an advantage so that people don't think their gun is stuck and won't fire no more posts

(unless the unit packs up again - ooh oohhh bitchy bitchy)

So even though it is flawed in its reliability atm for some people

and they can't get it do everything or run with any battery like manual says

I do kind of see where G&G where coming from and it not being quite as $hit as even I first thought

So yeah - this ETU stuff wasn't such a crap idea - just should of been done/tested better

Think for the moment - I'm gonna keep her as is with stubby & 11.1v and see how she goes

As for fixed stocks.....

Stubby stocks are about 190mm max length

Full fixed stocks are about 290mm length

A shame coz really think many guns/owners would prefer a medium stock say 240/250mm length

Stubby is ok say on a cqb FireHawk holding short gun right tucked into you

but as you get into wider open spaces taking longer shots you need a bit more on the stock for an accurate aim perhaps

not going by length of gun = length of stock and/or owner but you get the idea.....

say an average 300mm gun, normal bloke, taking a shot at say 40m+ you probably would want the stock a little longer

not too long like a full stock for dmr's but something like a 9" to 10" stock length would be ideal imho

There are a few slightly shorter full stock's - about 265mm I found on cheapy guns but majority full fixed are near 300mm

So the stubby is not going to be eveybody's cuppa tea as it is like the normal stock ergh - stock M4 stock fully retracted

where as most of us have it back a couple of clicks

But it does allow you to use cheaper and easier to source block lipo/batteries

As well as it is thinner - the crane's have the triangle bulge near the top for battery tubes

so in my mind your face is a tiny little bit less tucked tight into stock when ADS

The argument on best stock - in use or best looking stock is always gonna be open for opinion/debate/rows

heck in my mind its probably the last bit like the pistol grip that enemy would see out on the field as you line them up

so use what ever friggin' stock you want to or fits the bill - enough people say wtf and duct tape batteries on there

it means very little - it's your gun so do/use wtf you like

Though gun manufacturers should maybe consider a snazzy looking medium fixed or retractable stubby stock

think there could be a niche in the market for a decent cost effective practical stock imho

 

[Anno]

I bet Jimmy can't wait to change all these mosfets, this is what all those years of training has boiled down to. This is it Jimmy, this is your moment!

Tomorrow is Skirmish day for the new 11.1v lipo so will certainly have something to report back on, fingers crossed the gun doesn't stop firing. I was just making a mental list of connections to change over to deans, Battery, cable to mosfet and one for the charger.

If this lipo works fine tomorrow, I don't think I'll bother changing the stock.

One thing, I was looking at the hopup last night. I couldn't move it at all! is this usual for out of the box? there is a tiny screw in the dial, does this need undoing before it will turn?

Just want to say Thanks for all your advice and help SD

 

[Sitting Duck]

All you would need is a male & female deans connector

there are tutorials on youtube about soldering deans connectors....

the male prong deans goes on gun - the top of T is positive

(should have a + on connector sometimes if ya look carefully)

The leg of the T is negative

you cut and solder 1 lead at time - ESPECIALLY AT BATTERY

cutting both together will get a f*cking load BANG from a lipo short

scissors/wire cutters will look like they have been arc welded and you will need a change in underwear

it packs a punch them mofo lipo's

so you cut - fit heat shrink - solder one wire at a time

3 hands needed or tape the thingy to worktop or mini vise/molegrips resting on table etc.....

tbh just use it as is for now.....

not being funny but yes you may get a slight slight increase going to deans

but it is really when you go and rewire the gun in thicker 16awg wire

you 20c lipo is most likely 16awg on there and then it connects to rest of wiring at 18awg

so poxy small tamiya isn't holding you back with THAT much resistance if still on 18awg in gun

when people go nutz on 16awg deans then they need a really powerful mosfet to protect contacts

and handle the large amounts of juice that now flows through gun to motor

Also with G&G messing about with recalls and stuff I'd ease up in case they get $hitty about you fitting deans

is fine for me I void warranties 30 mins after delivery and don't think raw stupid abuse of guns is covered under warranty anyway

stock is fine - looks nice as I said

hop adjustment......

the lower left wheel is for increasing/decreasing hop

the wheel turns clockwise and the arm places more pressure on nub = more hop

anti or counterclockwise decreases hop

clockwise - hop on

anticlockwise - hop off

it has arrow on it too

not sure if its max hop already or if any hop on it.....

lay gun 90 degrees on its side say tilt gun on its side and fire...

you should see bb flying straight-ish no hop

but if it curls like f*ck left then hop is on a bit or a lot already

(would normally curve upwards but sometimes on its side will show the hop/curve more vividly)

You probably need to turn a little bit clockwise a smidge - then a smidge backwards, then hairline forwards a couple of times...

Then this will depend on bb's and weight you are using to attain best possible flight etc.....

those gears are quite tiny plastic so go easy and if she really wont budge or reaches it limit and gears clunk/jump then might be easier to slide hop/barrel out and see why they are not adjusting correctly....

As long as you know which way to turn them and go easy at a time - especially when you at the limit of no hop - full hop

and your last question

No you do not undo/loosen the screw - well very rarely especially on a new gun...

them 3 cogs are affixed differently...

center cog has a circlip as seen in pic

top right cog most likely has a circlip at the back of the unit

the main/adjustment cog bottom left is affixed to hop unit by phillips screw....

This is holding it to the hop and it should be slightly stiff to turn or the adjustment you dial in will not stay

sometimes if the hop adjust wheel is too loose people add a shim or something to ensure the setting stays put

I doubt if the hop adjust wheel is really that tight tbh - even new out of box

probably more a point that you need to know which way to turn it - usually clockwise a smidge

Do not force it too much - it should be a bit stiff but not stuck solid

hence if you are grief - maybe examine it closer up by popping receiver front pin so you can seperate receiver

then slide out hop+barrel and see wtf is up

Though you shouldn't need to do this really - do a google youtube for more info

Reason I say this - if it is stiff as f*ck or you loosen/lose screw etc... - it is a bit fiddly if unsure what way to adjust etc...

Anyway - fingers crossed gun is ok - you get to tweak hop a smidge and fine tune it a tiny bit

Happy Shooting

 

[Anno]

OK, 1 full day skirmish at The Grange, I love the Predator. Great gun, no problems with it at all. 11.1v lipo ran all day, should I have changed it regardless at lunch?

One lead at a time, got it. Ha!

I'll leave it as it is for now then, when would a rewiring be required?

I didn't try the hopup on the day, I was hitting 10-20 ft signs with obvious ease and 30 with barely any aim adjustment.

I do need to clean the barrel tonight, got the silicon oil for that. I will check the hop one I am doing that tonight.

Had a great day with only one gripe and that was my own stupidity of kneeling in a nettles bush. Knee felt like it was about 20ft wide after!

At the Grange they mentioned a new CQB site that will be opening in Birmingham, a 2 story warehouse. I was looking at a stubby m4 for using in CQB environments (so I can just use the mags I currently have). I was tempted by the G&G Firehawk.

 

[Sitting Duck]

DO NOT PUT SILICONE DOWN YOUR BARREL !!!!

if you get a very slight mist of it on the bucking in the hop you will screw it and have to strip it right down/replace

Actually silicone is ok - wait for the rows to start....

No it is ok down the barrel but NEVER anywhere near bucking......

you could use a slight slight damp - well I mean a light misting on a cloth with cleaning rag

but only a real slight amount - really slight amount and clean say 50 to 75% of barrel well away from bucking

then use a clean dry to polish or buff the barrel dry - hence you don't need much at all

What I would do for the first few times cleaning a barrel is just use a dry rag only !!!!!!

main thing is to get the crap that builds up in there - honest if you get bucking contaminated with silicone - ya f*cked !!!!

when you feel up to it then first learn how to use silicone.....

spray a small amount on something - not kitchen floor unless you like ice skating....

polish it, and ensure you buff it with a dry cloth = slippery silky ice rink

now if you got a mist on ya bucking - your bb's will travel less than half their usual distance as they won't have the hop/spin anymore

no grip on bb = no magnus/backspin = greatly reduced flight or as we say - $HIT !!!!!!

So for the time being - forget silicone oil in barrel etc....

yes I think it improves but only if you know what you are doing

so to avoid any early regrets - resist the temptation to use it - barrel can't be that dirty

I advise anybody to learn a little bit on using the silicone first, then you will understand it more

Glad ya had a good day - bar nettles, and gun seems ok now

(rewire - it will be fine for yonks n yonks I'd say, it is fetted, ya gun works, if it ain't broke don't try to fix it, enjoy it while it works)

DO NOT GET A FIREHAWK HC05 DSG

this gun has no semi, not so great performance really and though it is supposed to be for cqb

you won't be able to use it for cqb as most places are semi only

(Normal FireHawk is fine but they are loud, any gun really short M4, G36c, AK74's MP5k's - some have folding stock options)

or your gun is fine, just learn how to use it better and get a nice Glock pistol or shotgun

 

[proffrink]

Must I post this every time: http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/28054-cleaning-with-isopropyl-alcohol-vs-silicone/

Basically:

• clean with isopropyl alcohol
• apply thin layer of silicone to make surface 'more slippery' before cleaning off
• don't get silicone anywhere near your hop up rubber as it will warp it or - at the very least - provide less traction on the BB as it passes over it (resulting in less spin)

 

[Sitting Duck]

wise words indeed but use ultra caution when you feel ready...

I advise putting just bare cleaning rod down barrel very very carefully to see where the hop is

you should feel a slight resistance - DO NOT FORCE IT that is the hop's nub

(you should dial the hop off but we are trying to find the hop/nub and then stay away from it)

now mark where the rod is but say an inch or 25.4mm for metric youngsters out there

1 inch before the limit/mark - that is where you should clean to imho no more

when doing the final clean and/or it is full of crud then you could go 1/4 to 1/2 further but that is absolute max

seriously - do not get any lightly and I mean lightly moist rag with silicone ANYWHERE near bucking or you will regret it

Hence just clean ya barrel a few times with just a bit of tissue - alchowipes are good

and when you got the hang of it then maybe try silicone - a tiny tiny bit & polish with a dry cloth

but for now gun is new so unless you are using crap recycled bb's from the floor I'd say you will fine on a dry wipe

 

[Anno]

Thank you SD + Prof,

I will stay away from the silicone oil, I will stick with a dry rag for now. Will mark up on the rod as you have said. I was aware about not going near the hop. But not clued up on the reasoning why as such. Thank you for the information/ link, I had a quick look but will give it greater viewing tonight.

I saw that particular firehawk only had full auto, odd as I don't know any sites which would allow that. Not for CQB anyway. I do have a TM G17, it makes sense to just use the Pred (maybe with a foregrip, torch) and Glock for CQB. Certainly makes it a lot easier on the bank!

 

[GMan85]

Hi guys, hope you dont mind me jumping onto this topic. I bought a G&G GC16 wildhog a few weeks back and used it for the 1st time on sunday 28th feb, had exactly the same issues as Anno, worked for a bit then cut out etc etc.

I've got 9.6v ni and they just dont seem to last any length of time at all. Spoke to a guy from zeroone today, where i bought my gun and he said the ETU was 'sensitive'. Also he mentioned that i could swap these for 11.1v, but G&G wont cover the gun if you use those so my warranty would be worthless if i burnt it out. He stated that they were expecting to get some replacement ETUs in at some point but id be responsible for postage for the gun to be sent back and repaired!

Any thoughts / advice would be appreciated as im quite miffed and unsure on how to progress.

Cheers

 

[Sitting Duck]

First what does hog manual say....

Is it in manual working with 7.4v battery

So under description of goods act it is not as described

So you can return it as faulty....

Also how the f*ck would they know you used 11.1v for absolute sure your burst options are so limited due to tiny stock

AND JUST WTF ARE YOU SUPPOSED TO DO ATM ???

some units are faulty, G&G's fault not the owners

So if owners have to pay for faulty item to be returned then G&G and/or retailer should compensate in my book as a decent return of favour showing good customer practise....

Heck even if zero one or whoever offered a bag of bb's to try to compensate for the inconvenience

But alas don't hold ya breath

All owners experiencing problems need to consider options of either return item for refund

Which to be honest if z1 n G&G don't do something better

I would say get money back on £250 guns that should work and buy a Krytac elsewhere coz it f*cking stinks tbh

Zero One bragged on FaceBook about a little certificate from G&G saying great f*cking retailer blah blah blah...

Yeah ? Well chuck in a bag of bb's then to make up for hassle n owners having to pay return postage due to poor G&G quality control

Sorry going off on one

But I can't day for deffo do this or that

I can't see how the f*ck they could prove you killed a unit when it isn't working properly anyway

I'd keep it on small tamiya, run with tiny 11.1v and see how it goes....

But it is up to you, though think carefully if you are satisfied with G&G and Zero One's response

I don't think I will any more G&G's or think very very hard before diving in again I'm afraid

Last 2 G&G's haven't been as good as I was expecting

So they gotta up their game a bit in my mind

 

[GMan85]

Thanks for the response sitting duck. Ive emailed G&G and zeroone so just debating options. Zeroone said theyd collect the item and fix it under warranty if it is found to be faulty which is good news. However if for whatever reason they dont believe it is faulty then it would be at my cost. Im convinced it is the MOSFET and even G&G referenced possible replacement of this so they must know its an issue.

Dont see how it cant be faulty but conscious it is unpredictable in terms of when it cuts out. It is frustrating especially when you are trying to get into the hobby and spend half a skirmish trying to sort your gun out!

Lesson learned for next time i think ill go for a gun thats been out for a bit longer!

On a seperate note do you think there is any real value in me switching from Ni to Li batteries? I understand they are generally better, but not sure uts worth the hassle if they replace the MOSFET.

Cheers Geoff

 

[Sitting Duck]

First what does hog manual say....

Zero One says 11.1v isn't covered

YEAH ??? = look in the f*cking manual Z1

http://guay2.com/web/manual/CM16_WILDHOG_ALL.pdf

says 3 cell Li-Po 11.1v or G&G's G-11-041 battery 20c 3 stick mothf*cker

So when Zero One stop talking pout their ar$e and actually learn wtf stuff they are selling....

it seems that G&G are now saying in later model manuals that they recommend 11.1v lipo's

the lame ferrite motor lacks real grunt and can do with a bit more zest

plus trigger contacts will be fine as it is using a mosfet

but more importantly.....

If you don't use more juice than 7.4v or 9.6v nimah the gun is w@nked !!!!

re-read ya manual and it should say in there 11.1v 20c 3 stick bad boy li-po

get the component shop li-po's don't order a f*cking G&G one from Zero One ffs

edit - ffs just read the predator battleship grey manual too

http://guay2.com/web/manual/CM16%20PREDATOR_G.pdf

That says same thing 11.1v lipo recommended - jeez not being funny but peeps you gotta read ya manuals too now n then

ok we are blokes - but normally when things go a bit pear shape we do tend to have a quick glance at manual - just in case....

TBH - the retailers need to stop saying 9.6v if it says 11.1v in manual

c'mon everybody - just get the 11.1v lipo and be done with it or just send the f*cking thing back

ok maybe my FFR2 manual said 7.4v but these guns/models were the first batches along with SR-L range with new ETU's

seems that G&G are now saying 11.1v lipo is fine but not too much 20c rating

well you won't gert much else in that nice looking but tiny battery space GOS-v3 stock

so get that component shop 11.1v lipo and get out shooting at last

 

[GMan85]

Hmmm not quite. The manual you have there is for the CM16 not GC16 and you are right it says a 11.1v lipo but in my manual it interesting reccomends either a 9.6 Ni, or 7.4 lipo. See attached.

Not sure why though as the GC is meant to be higher spec intermediate not entry level like the CM, so youd expect it to also be ok withh 11.1v lipo.

View attachment 18394

 

[Sitting Duck]

Ahhhhh - your manual is the same as my FFR2

says recommend 7.4v or 9.6v

Zero One recently added the bit about these guns must have 9.6v

(but still don't work that great on 9.6v)

My guess is that G&G changed the ETU/Mosfet unit in the stock tube and though they may of worked on lower juice at first

(Launch SR-L's and stuff)

They changed or altered stuff - maybe a voltage regulator - I'm not a electronics guru

So to ensure guns worked they wrote the manuals for later guns

or revised the manuals to clearly state 11.1v lipo only as I linked to

Maybe this or maybe that - but can't see them deliberately making 2 or more types of mosfet units

they cocked up (again) or altered stuff without telling us - or keep changing their f*cking minds/story

If you got the "wrong" unit in there - they G&G or retailer should pay for the item to brought up to spec

but doubt if they Z1 or G&G will fully reimburse everybody - but a bag of bb's maybe to cover postage would be something

I really think 11.1v lipo will be fine is my gut feeling

think even with a new unit in there it still may not run properly on 7.4v like manual says plus motor is a bit lame anyway

As I said it is up to you - but reckon there are some strange mix ups that G&G need to sort out

 

[GMan85]

Yep its an interesting one. To be fair Z1 said they would cover the costs if it is found to be a manufacturing fault. My concern is this could be a matter of opinion so dont want to send it bk and risk that cost until im sure as if they dont believe it is faulty ill have to foot the bill.

I tried it again tonight on my 9.6 Ni, after cycling my battery a couple of times and it seemed to work ok. Got off about 500 rounds and didnt cut out. Think ill try it at another skirmish soon and if i get more issues ill deffo send it back. It does state on the Z1 webby that any use of 11.1v lipos for standard stock guns will void their warranty due to added stress on the motor / gears etc.

See how i get on and will wait for further info from G&G. Thanks again for the advice though and glad i found this forum for future!

Geoff

 

[Sitting Duck]

It isn't a stock gun though

Normally most of us will not run 11.1v on classic ol'skool trigger switch guns coz the carbon and arcing that takes place on higher juice/amps

The ETU and the 3rd burst MOSFET eliminates the carbon/arcing. Other guns that have microswitches installed just burn out very quickly unless a MOSFET is fitted. Google some images of burnt out trigger contacts

That is why a MOSFET is a very good idea and why many have MOSFET & rewired thicker wire with deans etc...

The stock G&G's without mosfet's yes wear & damage can quickly take place

The ETU's though are much more protected

As said how the heck they will know for sure you use 11.1v and all that Iike I said...

Anyway it is a lame blue "powerful motor" in there I'd say

If it blows up then lmk I'll send ya one for cost of postage but reckon you will be fine coz you will only being running mild 20c 11.1v with that tiny stock.

To be honest, reckon ya nimah's will start to lose their effective holding charge anyway before then

Lipo's are really the modern way forward

Myself tend to stick to 7.4v and a neodym motor that performs same if not better than a lame ferrite motor on 11.1v - roughly works out about the same speed/response

Up to you, but them ETU's are a bit hit n miss and G&G know that or why would they be acknowledging the need to replace some of them

See how ya go

Happy shooting

If she plays up, borrow a 11.1v and see for yourself

Only guns wirh MOSFETs I say this, old school aeg's you will fry your contacts over time

 

[delbert]

Hi Guys,

I hope you don't mind me jumping in on this thread?

I have recently got hold of an almost new G&G GC16 SR-L for a good price, a price point I could not ignore.

The gun is all metal and and only a few months old and I am glad to say the ETU works just fine and has so far not skipped a beat on me.

I am currently using this gun on 9.6v nimh batteries but would like to swap over to an 11.1v LIPO.

I have been looking for a 11.1v LIPO that would fit my crane stock and have come across a number of discussions on this subject but I still find myself worried about ordering the wrong sizing and confused on which LIPO charger to order, there are just so many chose from.

Can anyone recommend a 11.1V lipo that is known to fit the G&G stock and good LIPO charger that is known to fit and work well without killing my poor wallet?

Any advice or suggestions would be gratefully received.

Regards

Delbert

 

[Anno]

Little update from myself on this, played 3 times using the 11.1v lipo from component shop = http://www.componentshop.co.uk/11-1v-1000mah-20c-continuous-discharge-airsoft-lipo-split-pack.html

no problems here, works great now. I'm a huge fan of the 3 round burst also.

That battery also fits rather well if you keep the mosfet in the stock tube. 2 cells down one side, last cell on the other.

During my discussion with G&G via email, I was informed they would be updating their details on what battery to use so I guess that is why the latest manual online has 11.1v lipo as the recommended battery to use.

Can anyone recommend a 11.1V lipo that is known to fit the G&G stock and good LIPO charger that is known to fit and work well without killing my poor wallet?

As for charger, I am using a Imax b6 copy (did not realise it was a copy at the time of purchase) it works well enough but I would suggest going for either a real Imax b6 by skyrc or Turnigy Accucel 6. You don't have to use a smart charger for your batteries but I recommend that you do.

SD will be able to provide you with great information than I.

 

[Sitting Duck]

Cheers for update on this.....

Gun is probably pushing 20rps on 11.1v which as long as you don't change motor to a stronger/faster neodym one it should be fine

Normally we tend to advise not using high juice due to trigger contacts burning up but gun has the mosfet so it will be fine

plus the limited space means you can't shove in a massive 11.1v 60c son of a bitch lipo in there just a modest 20c one

Ideally once you get into 20's or above correcting AoE should be done but as long as you don't go nutz as I said it should be ok

I've broke pistons when really taking the piss pushing stock guns near 30 on neodym + 11.1v - so keep stock motor in there

Over time 6 to 12 months say it may need a service - sorry G&G owners but them bronzey bushings do wear a bit quick

so if/when your gun's fps drops or it needs a service then correct AoE and stuff when gun gets its first service

though it should be fine for a while - maybe a year depending on how much use it gets/shots fired/how your luck goes

I can see in weird way why G&G cuts out at low juice - ya 11.1v cells can get damaged once they get below 3.0v or 9v total

which is not as obvious to people as opposed to 7.4v lipo dropping to 6.0v

Yes it is a shock or a pain to owners who have bought suggested/recommended batteries already but you are kind of stuck

unless you return the item for replacement - still an option under warranty

or just get the 11.1v lipo's and get out and use these nice sexy - but a bit qwirky - still lovely though - modern G&G M4's

Chargers - B6 type is better than B3 type but just read manual first - or get an easier to use B3 but takes longer to charge

Get 2 batteries and change over at lunchtime and you should be fine avoid the lipo running out of juice

(probably get away with just one battery but really depends how mad you go through ammo - still a spare battery is wise if you can afford it)