Sitting Duck
Supporters
- May 11, 2014
- 4,894
- 1,736
Everything comes at a price generally speaking......
Your box has a life of X shots before it needs service/rebuild
Low ratio or high speed gears that mean higher rof - in a nut shell you will hit that fig X quicker
In true terms your box will quite likely crap out a little before it hits X as running faster would imply more heat/wear
You can't just shove hi speed gears in and expect cheap stock motor to pull it easily - or at very least at bit more strain
even with higher volts (more heat generated in stock wiring), a stock motor probably won't easily shift high speed 13 or 12:1
(if it does then I'd say the stock ferrite motor's balls will just drop off real soon/burn out/refuse to budge)
Like a car when you start upgrading things you find you need to also upgrade quite a few bits in the end....
Luckily - G&G do build their $hit well - they radius the front of cylinder area on box which is supposed to help absorb the shock of piston
BUT - like most low/med end stuff it is just quickly assembled & not even running at full stock potential:
AOE isn't done (2nd tooth is removed but I snapped a piston just by throwing in hi speed motor & no AOE)
Nozzle has no O ring and piston seal along with cylinder head wasn't great either.
So if your gun starts to show signs of losing power say under 300fps then those few stock improvements can really help
As well as all springs lose power over time so new m100 or m105 can be fitted, check shims grease etc....
If the owner feels confident or thinks wtf I'll have a go like me
On most guns it will pay dividends - but just recently discovered the lame CM FH made matters worse
How come - yup box is running sweet on a "normal" barrel but on a 120mm barrel the cyl/barrel ratio is out
never mattered before coz is was pi$$ poor seals etc but now it is way out or rather way over 1.8 ratio
I get 340fps on M4 but same box on 120mm barrel I get 270pfs
yup need to put in a MP5K cylinder with ports halfway or bore it myself (will try n hack a full type 0 cylinder first)
The above is an extreme rare example - the blue cylinder port is fine for short raider 233 to 275 on cm18 btw
so by just checking seals, new spring and perhaps AOE will help box run much more efficiently.
That will give you more fps and help with range if hop/barrel is all good
Won't give you more rof but will help it loads and greased up will last longer running stock setup
If you chuck in a more powerful motor to increase torque speed rof etc.... then if you stay in single figures
you may get away without a fet but then using fet will save contacts & help response and a tiny bit more efficiently
Most higher speed/torque motors are neodym magnets as opposed to ferrite
(spin motor - stock motor can turn easy - ferrite but high torque won't budge much coz stronger neodym magnets)
You should not really need a braking fet for a neo motor - ferrite yes at higher volts neo not really
Reason being the stronger neo magnets will slow motor very quickly once voltage stops
ferrite will roll onwards and can double fire on higher volts so people use braking to stop motor
but reverse polarity generates a fair amount of heat itself
so don't use it and just use normal single fet on a neodym motor as long as you don't too mental
though on higher speed gears the chance of double feed increases coz of ratio bevel to sector gear
Hence reason for me sticking to stock 18:1 gears on hi speed motor
(6 turns of bevel = 1 sector turn compared to just 4 bevel gear turns - 1 sector rotation on 12:1)
Torque motors "usually" turn a little bit slower rof but not much say 30 vs 26 on a SHS high torque
but some others are just that torque with not so great increase in rof over stock say 20ish over stock 15 rps
Before people get too carried away with all this - the real M4 only fires at 15/16rps I think
Whoa soz - waffling again and I have still $hitloads to learn but just keep breaking stuff and learning is giving me a buzz atm
If when ya gun starts to lose its oomphy mojo then check a few things and get it running sweet on stock is my lame nooby advice to most
Then if you got it running nice you can go nutz gradually like motor and/or fet etc......
trying to chuck in higher gears/motor and loads of volts without a bit of care & basic tweaks will just mean it goes bang very quickly
(3 broke pistons, 2 sheared crappy gear sets so far)
In the end it is nice to get a gun running bloody quick but then you don't have to push silly volts through it if you don't want to
and can just go easy on the juice and still have a better setup gun than stock when you are done
Hop/barrel sorted & I am ready to own the field - ergh nah I am still $hit at this airsoft stuff
but at least my gun is performing better - even if I am still $hit
Your box has a life of X shots before it needs service/rebuild
Low ratio or high speed gears that mean higher rof - in a nut shell you will hit that fig X quicker
In true terms your box will quite likely crap out a little before it hits X as running faster would imply more heat/wear
You can't just shove hi speed gears in and expect cheap stock motor to pull it easily - or at very least at bit more strain
even with higher volts (more heat generated in stock wiring), a stock motor probably won't easily shift high speed 13 or 12:1
(if it does then I'd say the stock ferrite motor's balls will just drop off real soon/burn out/refuse to budge)
Like a car when you start upgrading things you find you need to also upgrade quite a few bits in the end....
Luckily - G&G do build their $hit well - they radius the front of cylinder area on box which is supposed to help absorb the shock of piston
BUT - like most low/med end stuff it is just quickly assembled & not even running at full stock potential:
AOE isn't done (2nd tooth is removed but I snapped a piston just by throwing in hi speed motor & no AOE)
Nozzle has no O ring and piston seal along with cylinder head wasn't great either.
So if your gun starts to show signs of losing power say under 300fps then those few stock improvements can really help
As well as all springs lose power over time so new m100 or m105 can be fitted, check shims grease etc....
If the owner feels confident or thinks wtf I'll have a go like me
On most guns it will pay dividends - but just recently discovered the lame CM FH made matters worse
How come - yup box is running sweet on a "normal" barrel but on a 120mm barrel the cyl/barrel ratio is out
never mattered before coz is was pi$$ poor seals etc but now it is way out or rather way over 1.8 ratio
I get 340fps on M4 but same box on 120mm barrel I get 270pfs
yup need to put in a MP5K cylinder with ports halfway or bore it myself (will try n hack a full type 0 cylinder first)
The above is an extreme rare example - the blue cylinder port is fine for short raider 233 to 275 on cm18 btw
so by just checking seals, new spring and perhaps AOE will help box run much more efficiently.
That will give you more fps and help with range if hop/barrel is all good
Won't give you more rof but will help it loads and greased up will last longer running stock setup
If you chuck in a more powerful motor to increase torque speed rof etc.... then if you stay in single figures
you may get away without a fet but then using fet will save contacts & help response and a tiny bit more efficiently
Most higher speed/torque motors are neodym magnets as opposed to ferrite
(spin motor - stock motor can turn easy - ferrite but high torque won't budge much coz stronger neodym magnets)
You should not really need a braking fet for a neo motor - ferrite yes at higher volts neo not really
Reason being the stronger neo magnets will slow motor very quickly once voltage stops
ferrite will roll onwards and can double fire on higher volts so people use braking to stop motor
but reverse polarity generates a fair amount of heat itself
so don't use it and just use normal single fet on a neodym motor as long as you don't too mental
though on higher speed gears the chance of double feed increases coz of ratio bevel to sector gear
Hence reason for me sticking to stock 18:1 gears on hi speed motor
(6 turns of bevel = 1 sector turn compared to just 4 bevel gear turns - 1 sector rotation on 12:1)
Torque motors "usually" turn a little bit slower rof but not much say 30 vs 26 on a SHS high torque
but some others are just that torque with not so great increase in rof over stock say 20ish over stock 15 rps
Before people get too carried away with all this - the real M4 only fires at 15/16rps I think
Whoa soz - waffling again and I have still $hitloads to learn but just keep breaking stuff and learning is giving me a buzz atm
If when ya gun starts to lose its oomphy mojo then check a few things and get it running sweet on stock is my lame nooby advice to most
Then if you got it running nice you can go nutz gradually like motor and/or fet etc......
trying to chuck in higher gears/motor and loads of volts without a bit of care & basic tweaks will just mean it goes bang very quickly
(3 broke pistons, 2 sheared crappy gear sets so far)
In the end it is nice to get a gun running bloody quick but then you don't have to push silly volts through it if you don't want to
and can just go easy on the juice and still have a better setup gun than stock when you are done
Hop/barrel sorted & I am ready to own the field - ergh nah I am still $hit at this airsoft stuff
but at least my gun is performing better - even if I am still $hit
