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Double Eagle M904g – Aka the Original Q Honey Badger

You will be happy with it! I am thinking about putting an longer innerbarrel in mine soon and covering it with a either a new handguard or suppressor
Yeah, please keep us updated with the actual results if you do that, as sticking a mock silencer over a long barrel is exactly what I intend to do if I feel out-ranged
I do like the look of a suppressor on guns, but only want to do it if there's a tangible gain!

 
Sounds like you've made a perfectly sound decision to me.

Get to use mine for the first time in anger this weekend, can't wait.

 
My 904H turned up form patrol base today. Just like my 904G it feels well built and I'm really liking the feel of the longer hand guard.

Going to drop a longer barrel and hop bucking and nub in when I can. Made a big improvement on the G. 

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As I'm going to run mine stock at least for a couple of games, can someone recommend the best BB weight to use... I'm thinking .25g to make sure it can hop 'em in cold weather, but of course I'd like to go heavier if it'll work...?

 
I'd always suggest a Maple Leaf 50 degree bucking and 0.28g minimum in any AEG these days.  Omega nub, no omega nub, I'm back and forth on those, but all of my AEGs can over-hop 0.28g, even the MP5K with a somewhat ropey hop unit.

 
As I'm going to run mine stock at least for a couple of games, can someone recommend the best BB weight to use... I'm thinking .25g to make sure it can hop 'em in cold weather, but of course I'd like to go heavier if it'll work...?
0.25s will hop 100% - 0.28s are better and the go to but not 100% sure if they are hoppable with the stock rubber - I am currently running 0.25s despite having a ML Yellow ZCI barrel because the site I went to that was all they had...

It's also important to know what type of site you go to. 0.28s are usually better outside and for distance however in cqb you will be suprised how well a 0.20 can perform

If you want to upgrade or anything in the future let us know.

 
0.25s will hop 100% - 0.28s are better and the go to but not 100% sure if they are hoppable with the stock rubber - I am currently running 0.25s despite having a ML Yellow ZCI barrel because the site I went to that was all they had...

It's also important to know what type of site you go to. 0.28s are usually better outside and for distance however in cqb you will be suprised how well a 0.20 can perform

If you want to upgrade or anything in the future let us know.
Cheers, it's woodland with some sort-of cqb 'villages' where we change to single shot.  Most of the longer range stuff feels like 20-30, occasionally 40m, but at partial targets - sometimes through a bit of light brush - so accuracy and momentum the key things there!

I've had a dig around in my kit box, I found a bag of 0.30s in there I thought I'd already used.  And a bag of leftovers which could be anything from 0.20s to 0.28s.  Maybe even a pick'n'mix of all 3 weights.  Anyway, I'll see if I can lift the 0.30s in the garden.. should be an interesting test!

edit:
Yes, it'll over-hop .30s.  That's the stock rubber that's had probably a hundred rounds through it, at room temperature, at 20m range.  Geoff's .30g Bio Natural Precision BB's.   Operated by a non-expert user :)

Now obviously I may have so much hop wound on at this point that the fps might be unusably low, and I definitely saw some variability in the trajectories (though that's perhaps down to the new hop rubber, and the newness of the gun as a whole, and me only firing a couple of shots at each setting, with a battery that probably needs a recharge) but it's definitely lifting them successfully.

I'll probably order a big bag of 0.28s just to play it a little safe, but when I'm at the site next I'll try to get a chrono reading with the 0.30s

Absolutely loving the look and feel of this, and the binary trigger... lurrrrrrvly!

 
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Cheers, it's woodland with some sort-of cqb 'villages' where we change to single shot.  Most of the longer range stuff feels like 20-30, occasionally 40m, but at partial targets - sometimes through a bit of light brush - so accuracy and momentum the key things there!

I've had a dig around in my kit box, I found a bag of 0.30s in there I thought I'd already used.  And a bag of leftovers which could be anything from 0.20s to 0.28s.  Maybe even a pick'n'mix of all 3 weights.  Anyway, I'll see if I can lift the 0.30s in the garden.. should be an interesting test!

edit:
Yes, it'll over-hop .30s.  That's the stock rubber that's had probably a hundred rounds through it, at room temperature, at 20m range.  Geoff's .30g Bio Natural Precision BB's.   Operated by a non-expert user :)

Now obviously I may have so much hop wound on at this point that the fps might be unusably low, and I definitely saw some variability in the trajectories (though that's perhaps down to the new hop rubber, and the newness of the gun as a whole, and me only firing a couple of shots at each setting, with a battery that probably needs a recharge) but it's definitely lifting them successfully.

I'll probably order a big bag of 0.28s just to play it a little safe, but when I'm at the site next I'll try to get a chrono reading with the 0.30s

Absolutely loving the look and feel of this, and the binary trigger... lurrrrrrvly!
Remember that fps is not important, it's all about joules and if the weight is hoppable.

Keep the gun stock for a month I would say when you want to make changes chuck in a ML Yellow and keep the stock barrel as you shouldn't need to trim the lip. After a while upgrade the barrel to a stainless steel one - ZCI are very good for the price however you will most likely need to trip the lip. To do this use a disposable razor, put it on a spare barrel and just take a tiny bit off each time. Make sure to do the drop test in the hop up frequently when shaving the material so you stop just as it let's the bb drop down into the hopup without getting caught. 

 
Used my 906C in anger yesterday for the first time. Great rifle, light, easy to carry around and accurate. Loved it.

One thing I have found though is the front QD points are too thick, they don't hold the QD fitting securely at all. The ones on the receiver and stock are fine, just the two on either side of the front rail. It looks like it's too thick and the pins aren't releasing fully.

I'll be removing it later and see if it can be fettled a bit to make things more secure.

Having said that it was perfectly fine on a 1 point sling mounted to the receiver.

 
Used my 906C in anger yesterday for the first time. Great rifle, light, easy to carry around and accurate. Loved it.

One thing I have found though is the front QD points are too thick, they don't hold the QD fitting securely at all. The ones on the receiver and stock are fine, just the two on either side of the front rail. It looks like it's too thick and the pins aren't releasing fully.

I'll be removing it later and see if it can be fettled a bit to make things more secure.

Having said that it was perfectly fine on a 1 point sling mounted to the receiver.
You can also get mlock qd points, I always like a bit of cord or a zip tie myself though. Glad you enjoyed the gun! 

 
Used my 906C in anger yesterday for the first time. Great rifle, light, easy to carry around and accurate. Loved it.

One thing I have found though is the front QD points are too thick, they don't hold the QD fitting securely at all. The ones on the receiver and stock are fine, just the two on either side of the front rail. It looks like it's too thick and the pins aren't releasing fully.

I'll be removing it later and see if it can be fettled a bit to make things more secure.

Having said that it was perfectly fine on a 1 point sling mounted to the receiver.


That's great to hear!  I would normally have been playing today but I crocked my ankle playing football so I'll just be pootling along to the site to pick up my other guns from the tech at lunchtime.  Hopefully I can ping a few shots at the range and get the hop dialed in ?

I spent a while yesterday messing around with my kit.  I fixed a couple of minor annoyances: I put a couple of velcro stickers inside the stock tube that stopped it from rattling at all (but I will buy that PTS EPS stock in the future), and another in the mag well to reduce the play there.  Job done.  Would like to reduce the small rattle of the right side selector switch too, but the bolt is already tight

I've found a single point sling in the bargain bin at my local retailer which I'll be picking up soon.  It's just got a loop to wrap around the stock tube, not sure how effective it will be... might be a fiver wasted but I do like trying my luck!

 
... the flash hider. The grub screw that holds it on and the flash hider actually have thread lock on them. I wasn't expecting this for such a cheap AEG and is something normally seen on high end AEG's. I had to end up press fitting a star drive bit into the grub screw to get it out...


So far this is the only part of my M904E that's annoyed me, I had to use an easy out / screw removal tool today to get the grub screw out, it was the only thing that worked (but the flash hider itself easily came off with bare hands).

 
Hey guys. So this same gun has been rebranded as a Matrix Calico Jack. Not sure if it is exactly the same but it seems to be. Re-lubing, 6.02 barrel and a 95 spring has it shooting 349.0 to 350.8. the only annoyance is the battery compartment and the inability to switch to a buffer tube. Going to try to find someone to print one of those extensions. Thanks for all the work you put into this. I was about to abandon it and buy an arp556 to start building but I think I may stick with this guy now. 

View attachment 81417

 
Hey guys. So this same gun has been rebranded as a Matrix Calico Jack. Not sure if it is exactly the same but it seems to be. Re-lubing, 6.02 barrel and a 95 spring has it shooting 349.0 to 350.8. 
Cool gun ?

Can I ask a couple of questions?

I've seen a couple of reviews meeting that the gearbox doesn't seem to have much lube in it, when it's fresh out of the box.  Did you find that, and if so was it bad enough that I should get mine cracked open and lubed as a priority?

Also, what FPS did you get before the spring change? I'm going to get mine chrono'd on Sunday for the first time, I imagine it's going to be comfortably under the limit, but I wouldn't want any surprises!

 
Cool gun ?

Can I ask a couple of questions?

I've seen a couple of reviews meeting that the gearbox doesn't seem to have much lube in it, when it's fresh out of the box.  Did you find that, and if so was it bad enough that I should get mine cracked open and lubed as a priority?

Also, what FPS did you get before the spring change? I'm going to get mine chrono'd on Sunday for the first time, I imagine it's going to be comfortably under the limit, but I wouldn't want any surprises!
Wouldn't worry about it too much, Aslong as it sounds good the lube should be doing its job. Majority of stock guns are not greatly lubed from the factory however they are usually using a thick heavy grease and lots of it with the aim of trying to make it be as "long lasting" as possible. My advice is to only relube it when you are going to have to open the gearbox at some point.

 
Cool gun ?

Can I ask a couple of questions?

I've seen a couple of reviews meeting that the gearbox doesn't seem to have much lube in it, when it's fresh out of the box.  Did you find that, and if so was it bad enough that I should get mine cracked open and lubed as a priority?

Also, what FPS did you get before the spring change? I'm going to get mine chrono'd on Sunday for the first time, I imagine it's going to be comfortably under the limit, but I wouldn't want any surprises!
So it started around 310 when I got it around father's day and dropped to 280 over time. I popped the gearbox out and cycled the piston back to where I could lube the o-ring. (You can use a fingernail or small screwdriver to rotate the o-ring to get the whole thing. Went back up immediately. Also a huge problem with mine was they used too much glue on the red tip and it glued the inner to the outer barrel. The barrel is not supped to be locked in place. Also swap the barrel spring that is around the barrel that contacts the upper. It was odd shaped, almost conical. 

 
So it started around 310 when I got it around father's day and dropped to 280 over time. I popped the gearbox out and cycled the piston back to where I could lube the o-ring. (You can use a fingernail or small screwdriver to rotate the o-ring to get the whole thing. Went back up immediately. Also a huge problem with mine was they used too much glue on the red tip and it glued the inner to the outer barrel. The barrel is not supped to be locked in place. Also swap the barrel spring that is around the barrel that contacts the upper. It was odd shaped, almost conical. 
I've got some fairly standard 'Silverhook SGPGT90' silicon grease I got from a DIY store, is that good enough or do I need to get some specialist stuff in there?  (Any recommendation if so?)

 
Looks good to me. Made in England so it's prob quality stuff. Not like you have a polar star in there. Would be interested in knowing what some of you that have been around a long while use?

 
Would be interested in knowing what some of you that have been around a long while use?


The best I've come across is Super Lube Silicone, stuff is fantastic and long lasting, really weird properties as well, not sure what they put in it.  I also use Sealeys, it does the job but doesn't last as long.

 
I've got some fairly standard 'Silverhook SGPGT90' silicon grease I got from a DIY store, is that good enough or do I need to get some specialist stuff in there?


For o-ring lubing?  Looks fine, I use silicone grease or spray, whatever's closest to hand.

For the gears and motor pinion themselves, I use, well, whatever's closest to hand out of lithium bearing grease or low fling chainsaw oil, but not silicone.

 
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