I made the mistake of looking at some of these falling down an internet rabbit hole and ended up hanging my nose over the gun in the title.
Of course I then bought one and following are my thoughts on the gun.
In case you don't know what it looks like... https://images.app.goo.gl/9mtVnfitABNswYUX6
For me it's a sexy gun, maybe the sexiest. Sexy and heavy. It weighs 3.6kg with mag, battery and sight and more than a little front heavy.
It's the Blue version, so inside it should have half decent bits and clearly the air seal is ok, firing at 365 fps on a .2g BB, through its little 220mm barrel. It's happy on a 3S lipo or a 3S life.
I swore to myself I would use it before taking it apart, but I didn't. It had a very clunky fire selector which bothered me greatly so I pulled off the sliding stock, which is very nice and sturdy, with a great extending action (only 1 of the 3 extended positions is useful to me, so I will mod those later)
Once the body pin was out, I slid out the gearbox out and pondered the fire selector.
I am used to a G36, they are V3 gearboxes and this is a V2. I don't recall working on a V2 before so of course I ploughed ahead, pulling the motor out and sliding the plastic bits off after taking the fire selector levers off ( grubscrew on the left, then pull the shaft and right selector lever through the gearbox.
There's a "plastic bit" that sits in the plastic lower, through which the selector shaft passes from the right and gets sandwiched by the right selector lever.
Anyhoo, the gearbox has a quick change spring, a shiny ribbed cylinder and a plastic nozzle, sans o ring. The casting is textured for some reason, it's not radiused and not shimmed properly.
I noted that the plastic fire selector plate was binding leaving safe to semi on the contacts, which stuck up really high, so the copper part of the fire selector plate had a lot of work to do to get past them. I imagine it's meant to electrically disconnect the trigger as well as mechanically lock the trigger on safe, but it doesn't do the electrical isolation. I will probably rewire this given the pointless contacts.
The fire selector plate and the aforementioned "plastic bit" ( a sort of cam) work together provide a crude detent, in addition to the detent in the left fire selector lever, when selecting safe, semi and auto. For safe the plastic bit has kind of beak that goes over centre on the bottom of the fire selector plate, on semi there's a nub on the plastic bit that nestles against a raised bit on the fire selector plate and on auto, the aforementioned beak engages the raised bit.
To smooth all this out required:
Pushing the contacts down ( they may have been incorrectly seated) so the fire selector plate would move more freely
Taper the beak of the plastic bit, so it would engage safe with less force and move from safe to semi with less force.
Reduce the size of the nub on the plastic bit to engage semi from safe more smoothly.
Taper the top side of the beak so it would more easily engage in the auto position.
There is still a detent effect putting the fire selector plate in the right place, which now works with the fire selector levers own detect, meaning it all clicks into place now. Much like my G36s.
Having, as previously mentioned, sworn to not take this thing apart I now have a list of things to do.
Spring change, maybe nozzle change.
Shimming and consequently adjusting motor height.
Filling in the 2 useless cut outs in the sliding stock so it slides to the right position.
Add a MOSFET ( nothing fancy, I have a load of 3034 chips to use) Some of the MOSFETs used in the posh ETUs are really not very good. Altho the Jefftron ones are very nice.
Rewire the thing in decent cable (the PVC stuff doesn't like the bends this gun seems to require and it uses lot of it, going to the back of the gun from the gearbox then to the front to the battery)
Short out those weird contacts under the selector plate and get the copper off it.
That's probably enough for now, please feel free to tell me where I'm going wrong or what else I might do since I am already doing this ^^^
Maybe you've noticed there are not many pics, Some tech issues prevented them appearing here. I'll add them as soon as I can.
Of course I then bought one and following are my thoughts on the gun.
In case you don't know what it looks like... https://images.app.goo.gl/9mtVnfitABNswYUX6
For me it's a sexy gun, maybe the sexiest. Sexy and heavy. It weighs 3.6kg with mag, battery and sight and more than a little front heavy.
It's the Blue version, so inside it should have half decent bits and clearly the air seal is ok, firing at 365 fps on a .2g BB, through its little 220mm barrel. It's happy on a 3S lipo or a 3S life.
I swore to myself I would use it before taking it apart, but I didn't. It had a very clunky fire selector which bothered me greatly so I pulled off the sliding stock, which is very nice and sturdy, with a great extending action (only 1 of the 3 extended positions is useful to me, so I will mod those later)
Once the body pin was out, I slid out the gearbox out and pondered the fire selector.
I am used to a G36, they are V3 gearboxes and this is a V2. I don't recall working on a V2 before so of course I ploughed ahead, pulling the motor out and sliding the plastic bits off after taking the fire selector levers off ( grubscrew on the left, then pull the shaft and right selector lever through the gearbox.
There's a "plastic bit" that sits in the plastic lower, through which the selector shaft passes from the right and gets sandwiched by the right selector lever.
Anyhoo, the gearbox has a quick change spring, a shiny ribbed cylinder and a plastic nozzle, sans o ring. The casting is textured for some reason, it's not radiused and not shimmed properly.
I noted that the plastic fire selector plate was binding leaving safe to semi on the contacts, which stuck up really high, so the copper part of the fire selector plate had a lot of work to do to get past them. I imagine it's meant to electrically disconnect the trigger as well as mechanically lock the trigger on safe, but it doesn't do the electrical isolation. I will probably rewire this given the pointless contacts.
The fire selector plate and the aforementioned "plastic bit" ( a sort of cam) work together provide a crude detent, in addition to the detent in the left fire selector lever, when selecting safe, semi and auto. For safe the plastic bit has kind of beak that goes over centre on the bottom of the fire selector plate, on semi there's a nub on the plastic bit that nestles against a raised bit on the fire selector plate and on auto, the aforementioned beak engages the raised bit.
To smooth all this out required:
Pushing the contacts down ( they may have been incorrectly seated) so the fire selector plate would move more freely
Taper the beak of the plastic bit, so it would engage safe with less force and move from safe to semi with less force.
Reduce the size of the nub on the plastic bit to engage semi from safe more smoothly.
Taper the top side of the beak so it would more easily engage in the auto position.
There is still a detent effect putting the fire selector plate in the right place, which now works with the fire selector levers own detect, meaning it all clicks into place now. Much like my G36s.
Having, as previously mentioned, sworn to not take this thing apart I now have a list of things to do.
Spring change, maybe nozzle change.
Shimming and consequently adjusting motor height.
Filling in the 2 useless cut outs in the sliding stock so it slides to the right position.
Add a MOSFET ( nothing fancy, I have a load of 3034 chips to use) Some of the MOSFETs used in the posh ETUs are really not very good. Altho the Jefftron ones are very nice.
Rewire the thing in decent cable (the PVC stuff doesn't like the bends this gun seems to require and it uses lot of it, going to the back of the gun from the gearbox then to the front to the battery)
Short out those weird contacts under the selector plate and get the copper off it.
That's probably enough for now, please feel free to tell me where I'm going wrong or what else I might do since I am already doing this ^^^
Maybe you've noticed there are not many pics, Some tech issues prevented them appearing here. I'll add them as soon as I can.
the solid stock is my preference, the collapsing stock is nice for transport. Detach the silencer and it's an mp5k nearly. It's only one pin to remove the stock anyway.
