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Cybergun F2000 (Cyma) - Internal upgrades / tinkering

View attachment 83156

There's a full length un-ported cylinder, and I guess I need the new cylinder head too?
The Element motor description doesn't have the TPA, but I'm thinking lower cost = lower TPA

I'd like to keep the costs down (obviously) but there's only so many times my sanity and inexperienced tech skills will allow me to try to re-assemble this gearbox ... 

So is it stupid to carry on with the existing piston and piston head?

 
View attachment 83158

I'd change the piston head too, keep everything to do with air seal the same brand. 

Obviously get some silicon oil to apply to the piston head and cylinder head whilst fitting. 

 
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@Asomodai Right about now I'm finding it very disappointing we don't have an animated GIFs feature, in which I could search for things like "I love you and I want to have your babies"  :D
That goes for you too @Adolf Hamster 

Cheers guys, much appreciated!


Order done!

 
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worth mentioning seeing as you're going for replacing the air seal components to think about the nozzle too, especially if the stock one doesn't have a sealing o ring.

otherwise that's pretty close to what i'd be thinking of dropping in there, i always struggle to recommend specific parts because there's always that chance X part might be off and won't work (which i've had plenty of times, it's how you accumulate a parts box)

those silent type piston heads can push the aoe back, which depending on the gun might mess things up although it looks in this case (using very rough judgement based off one picture) it looks like there's room for it to shift back anyway.

 
Adolf Hamster said:
worth mentioning seeing as you're going for replacing the air seal components to think about the nozzle too, especially if the stock one doesn't have a sealing o ring.

otherwise that's pretty close to what i'd be thinking of dropping in there, i always struggle to recommend specific parts because there's always that chance X part might be off and won't work (which i've had plenty of times, it's how you accumulate a parts box)

those silent type piston heads can push the aoe back, which depending on the gun might mess things up although it looks in this case (using very rough judgement based off one picture) it looks like there's room for it to shift back anyway.
Click to expand...


AOE on mine needed alot of correcting hence why I recommended the silent piston head. 

Nozzle is going to be difficult because AUG style nozzles are different sizes and not easy to get. I'd stick with the current one and load it up with silicon oil. The stock Cyma ones really are not that bad despite how cheap it looks. 

 
Asomodai said:
AOE on mine needed alot of correcting hence why I recommended the silent piston head. 
Click to expand...


yeah, i'm not personally much of a fan of that type (preferr the standard type with wide ports) although for an aeg i don't mind the slap when firing.

Asomodai said:
Nozzle is going to be difficult because AUG style nozzles are different sizes and not easy to get. I'd stick with the current one and load it up with silicon oil. The stock Cyma ones really are not that bad despite how cheap it looks. 
Click to expand...


aye, one of the drawbacks of going with the less common pews. although ak2m4 normally has a decent selection.

 
There's this one in stock... which I've stuck in my basket
https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/rocket-aug-aluminium-nozzle
View attachment 83164

I've already WhatsApp'd @ak2m4 to see if he can add it to the order, but he's not read my message yet... so I can back out of that if you don't think it'll work.

I measured the existing one at 25.10mm.   Is that near enough (or is "a miss is as good as a mile")?

 
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RostokMcSpoons said:
I measured the existing one at 25.10mm.   Is that near enough (or is "a miss is as good as a mile")?
Click to expand...


generally you do need to be very precise with nozzle lengths.

too short (and 0.3mm can definately be enough) and it'll not sit tight to the feed lips on the hop bucking and cause an air leak (reduced fps and awful fps consistency)

too long and as long as it clears the feed tube then it'll be ok, but if it doesn't clear the feed tube then needless to say feeding issues ensue.

 
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Adolf Hamster said:
generally you do need to be very precise with nozzle lengths.

too short (and 0.3mm can definately be enough) and it'll not sit tight to the feed lips on the hop bucking and cause an air leak (reduced fps and awful fps consistency)

too long and as long as it clears the feed tube then it'll be ok, but if it doesn't clear the feed tube then needless to say feeding issues ensue.
Click to expand...


Oh shizzle.  I don't want to get this all put together only to find that it doesn't work, because I've spent enough hours trying to re-assemble it already!

Shimming it (my first attempt, of course), fitting the cylinder / head / piston and motor with the soldering and the fitting Deans etc will have kept me quite busy enough.

At some point I'll have to MOSFET it, perhaps as per this ... and that'll be a good time to do the nozzle (if I can find a good replacement) and also buy a new hop unit / bucking / nub / inner barrel.



 
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RostokMcSpoons said:
Oh shizzle.  I don't want to get this all put together only to find that it doesn't work, because I've spent enough hours trying to re-assemble it already!
Click to expand...


i get the feeling, especially after you've got used to it almost puts you off getting new pews when you realise how much work you're gonna end up putting in before it's up to par with the rest of the collection.

RostokMcSpoons said:
Shimming it (my first attempt, of course), fitting the cylinder / head / piston and motor with the soldering and the fitting Deans etc will have kept me quite busy enough.

At some point I'll have to MOSFET it, perhaps as per this ... and that'll be a good time to do the nozzle (if I can find a good replacement) and also buy a new hop unit / bucking / nub / inner barrel.
Click to expand...


if you're going to be cracking out the soldering iron anyway it's a perfect time to switch to a mosfet, if you dont want to splash out for a warfet just yet then the nanoasr uses the same contact setup so you can just swap it over later on.

 
RostokMcSpoons said:
https://www.patrolbase.co.uk/gate-warfet-aeg-control-system-ver-1-1
Click to expand...


aye that's the one.

RostokMcSpoons said:
I was thinking this one (eventually), is the Gate one better?

https://www.airsoftcentral.co.uk/perun-v3-version-3-hybrid-drop-in-airsoft-aeg-programmable-mosfet.html
Click to expand...


if you're gonna go optical in the long run then not much point going with the wired options short-term then as they'll end up redundant.

not really sure about the perun vs gate thing, never really ran any of the perun options although they seem to be relatively popular. 

 
RostokMcSpoons said:
I'll keep things simple for the moment.. if I do anything it'll be the nano
Click to expand...


nano will just give basic contact protection, but tbh given the contacts are gonna be yeeted anyway when you go optical you might even be happy enough to live with that.

at least it's not the g&g version with it's weird trigger pack :P

 
@RostokMcSpoons Can't really fault the Perun's, been selling them for around a year now and they've been solid.  Perun also provide direct support so any problems they are on hand to help out.  

 
So like a complete dilbert I rushed into the job of changing the motor, and it was only once I'd got the cage off and de-soldered the wires that I realised I couldn't completely make sense of it
 

View attachment 83256

Is it the red wire that goes +ve on the motor?  I'd assume so but I didn't want to wire it wrongly and zap my motor or set the battery on fire!

Also, I'm changing the Tamiya connector to Deans but I don't know if it matters how I wire that, because both the damned wires are black (though the one I'd have thought was -ve, judging by googled pics, has a hint of red to it!)

Again, the desire to avoid flames and failures is strong, so I thought I'd better ask!

I did google for v3 wiring diagrams / videos, but stuff related to AUG style trigger setups and this wiring is AWOL :(

Cheers, and Happy New Year :)

 
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Red is conventionally positive.

If you get it wrong then the motor will try to run backwards which wont be good (well, it wont kill anything it'll just get stuck on the arl, obviously dont hold the power on it)

Whilst you can solder directly to the motor its generally handy to use connectors so you can remove it to change as needed and not have to worry about it dangling off the gearbox while your working for it.

With deans there's a +ve mark on them (cant remember which of the 2 it is come to think of it) and its good to stick to that so that if you get a battery with pre-soldered deans then it'll run right.

 
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Cheers for the quick response, much appreciated :)

Ok, my battery is already Deans connector, I sorted that out a while ago, its fine.

I don't have any of the spade connectors so it'll have to be soldered.

Deans +ve is arrowed...
View attachment 83257

With Tamiya the round connector is +ve, assuming they're using the standard colour

View attachment 83259

So obviously the weird thing I can't quite get my tiny brain around is why all the wires are red in parts, but become black and red for the motor,  and yet I end up with two wires that I consider to be -ve being wired into the Deans!

Brain... is... melting.   Like my wiring if I bugger it up.

I could re-wire my 'old' motor back up, and ensure it runs ok, maybe that's safest.

 
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